ReLion Batteries not Charging with Victron Smart Solar: could this be a reason or what else?

DIY
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Hi community members :slight_smile:

This is my setup, installed in November 2023, in a Westfalia Nugget High Roof, Diesel, with Euro5 type of diesel engine and StartStop system by the official van dealer here in Spain:

  • 2 batteries RELION 12V 1280Wh 100Ah DIN 4SC LiFePO4 to sum 200Ah in total
  • VICTRON ENERGY SMART SOLAR 100/20 MPPT 20A, firmware updated to latest version
  • BOOSTER MASTERVOLT MAC PLUS 12/12-50 50A
  • Fuse system + shunt with display
  • Flexible solar panel on high roof (with its own PWM controller)
  • Another solar panel, 400w and portable, that I can plug and the is controlled by the VICTRON ENERGY SMART SOLAR 100/20 MPPT 20A.

The lithum batteries replacing the original gel Varta batteries.

I was pretty happy with such setup, I could travel without needing to stop at campsites to plug the van. Just driving or just parked with some sun, it was enough to get it always around 90-100% capacity, even with 40L compressor freezer on or the diesel Eberspacher heating system. I had actually used 0 times the plug charger, so I didn’t test it in depth at all.
I never saw the batteries descending below 93ish. Just driving a bit and voila, up to max again.
And I could see all that on the shunt display: the 160w solar panel on roof charging a bit…also when I plugged the portable panel (being 400w even more Ah and watts and faster charge obviously), and the fastest after driving.

The guys at the van dealer after replacing the gel batteries with this whole setup told me that the old recommendation of turning the Start&Stop off wasn’t necessary anymore.

So the van’s last trip was in September, after 1400kms, I get back home and I read like 75% capacity: I told myself, how strange. But I did nothing, just left it parked.
Now, late October…when preparing for a new trip, I got to the parked van and I noticed the batteries at 70% capacity, circa 160ah…so I was puzzled because there has been nothing turned on in the van, only the shunt display must be consuming electricity…So I plugged it: and I read on the shunt lots of watts and high Ah, ok, relieved. Next morning, I see the battery even less capacity, nothing, nada.

So I thought: I will change the Shucko cable. Nada. Nothing. I see that when the cable is plugged, the shunt displays higher watts and Ah but suddenly drops to 0.

I even tried different home sockets.
Nothing.

I’ve driven today a bit, like 120 kms, and nothing, now it’s even lower, because every day is losing capacity fast: 139Ah and 66% says the display. Solar panel on roof doesn’t charge anymore either, and according to Victron’s app History…it’s been like that for weeks!

I’ve called the van dealer to book an appointment, I haven’t got it yet.

I have a few questions:

  1. Is this harming the batteries? I remember gel batteries couldn’t go lower than 50% their capacity. So I wonder if this wait for the appointment will definitely ruin the LifePo4 ReLion

  2. In August, an injector died, and the diesel filter was clogged (due to Ford’s bad maintenance checks…but that’s a different incredible story)…and I got both replaced. Could such replacement and work by Ford garage made the whole system stop or reset it so it doesn’t work because of that? Maybe because they had to reset something at central console?

  3. Could it be something else?

  4. I insisted the van dealer to use a Victron’s booster too, so everything is from same brand and same ‘software’…they said they preferred Mastervolt’s. Could this association of different hardware and software brands like Mastervolt for the booster (to avoid alternator frying the batteries) be a culprit?

I don’t have access to Mastervolt’s app or settings…but I do have access to Victron’s Smart app, is there any advanced config o screen I should check to see if there are errors I can’t see now? Accessing the app won’t say anything: just current reading and History.

Thank you in advance for any help on this or just reassuring words, at least regarding the ReLion batteries question.

I have spent 4500 euros in this setup, and it’s a lot of money…at least for me. I am very disappointed with the result, to be fair…if just a year after stops working. So I hope if it’s been misconfigured when Ford fixed the injector issue.

Thank YOU, GRACIAS!

Elena

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Image_20241028_213638_071|281x500
A snapshot of the situation 28.10.2024 even after driving, rien de rien :frowning:
And nothing is turned on at the van.

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The lithium batteries can be run down to 20% without issue, possibly lower. The only concern without a full charge is the batteries are not getting balanced and the shunt will be becoming less accurate or an equipment failure.

It is hard to troubleshoot without any data, charging voltages, currents and powers. There could be loose connections, switches turned off or other issues.

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Elena, I would have expected the roof solar panel would be getting sufficient sun to keep the batteries trickle charged.
I run a Cerbo GX, Wi-Fi access point and Wi-Fi client to connect to the marina’s network on my boat, as well as a couple of small IOT devices to monitor equipment.
This all draws few amps, but the solar panels more than cover this, and keep my LiFePo batteries charged.

If the equipment has been installed correctly you should have a method of switching off all the loads expect the MPPT the shunt and display should be powered from the battery, but don’t draw a lot of current, this should be off.

You should also be able to isolate the battery from all the equipment, so switch off any chargers or MPPT and make a note of the battery voltage after a few minutes to allow everything to settle down, then isolate the battery, this will stop any discharge, including the shunt and display.

Leave this several days and then check it again, make sure any charges MPPT etc are still off when you re-connect the battery. The voltage should not have changed, these batteries do not self discharge like lead-acid.

Any competent auto-electrician should be able to check for something consuming power when it should not.

I would check any spilt - charge units that direct the power from the alternator to starter and domestic batteries if you have a single alternator charging both.

Ideally you should have separate alternators for domestic and starter / vehicle equipment batteries.

Without a circuit diagram though I am having to give generic answers based on common set-ups.

Good luck.

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If your motorhome still has the split charge relay still enabled , this would connect the two different battery chemistries together when driving. On a Euro 6 Ford this has to be disabled and a B2B fitted. The Euro 6 emission cycle discharges the van battery to 80% to reduce emissions.
In my case this cycling was visible on the lead acid batteries. I have 1 Relion 100A battery fitted.
Victron Smart Solar and a BMV 712 with temp sensor.

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Here is the problem… no alternator charge like it was before.

Did the installer change all the programming on the components to the lithium profile?

Ignoring the SOC for the battery right now, does the battery reach absorption voltage? It may be that the SOC indicator from the shunt is not correct

It seems like the only thing Victron here is the mppt and that only has occasional use. Since your pluggable panel can only be plugged in when stationary?
The bulk of your charge from other components.

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Thank you everyone for your answers, I wasn’t receiving any email telling me you had answered, so sorry for my late response.

The shunt was apparently the culprit.
I had a guy from Azimut Electronics (the company who sold the shunt, Victron and batteries) checked the batteries: he got a correct reading. So then we changed the shunt…to see what happened. The new shunt was picking the 100% charge of batteries, we turned on a light and it was showing the discharging amperage. I turned it off: the amperage = 0…and right then we connected the old shunt again…and it was picking the discharging amperage when the light wasn’t turned on anymore, so we deducted it was the shunt. I got it replaced.
Now there’s nothing that seems odd in its readings…the batteries are so fully charged that solar panels nor driving charges them, I guess because of the BMS (I have to say the lithium batteries have been such a qualitative leap from AGM…sometimes I can’t even believe this).

I have a trip ahead so it’ll be the right moment to turn stuff on, and see if batteries get recharged while driving or solar powered (if sunny) and see if the new shunt shows correct and coherent readings.

Muchas GRACIAS, you’re a great community!
Greetings from some rural area in Spain.

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