Running Multiplus with no batteries

I guess I’m just looking for a dumbed down version like my drawings.
Thanks for sharing what you had.

Maybe I am missing something here but it doesn’t look like the question got answered. “Will I still be able to turn lights on and move slides in and out?” Short answer is no. Assuming you disabled or removed your converter when installing the multiplus(as you should have) you will have no 12V power at all without batteries. My question is being plugged into shore power, why would you remove your batteries? The Multiplus(assuming programmed properly) will be an ideal battery maintainer while your rig is in storage. Keep it simple.

I remove batteries because temps during winter range from 30 to -40 and i dont have heated lithium batteries.

If I take my converter out I won’t be able to use any dc power when I use the switch to bypass the multiplus.

Would you then just switch the converter breaker to off while using the multiplus then switch breaker to on when not using multiplus?

I think the idea of a DC power source should be highly considered. When I program inverters on the bench I use a Victron Blue Smart charger set as a power source. Within Victron Connect you can choose this option. It seems like this could be done just as easily with your set up. You could probably wire a couple battery shut off switches with an Anderson plug pig tail that will allow you to connect the Blue Smart when the batteries are removed. Seems like a simple solution.

When I install a multiplus I usually disable or remove the converter so no one tries to re connect it in the future.

Dc power source - do you recommend one?

I’ve already installed 2 switches so I can bypass so I’m pretty committed to that way now.
I just want to be able to turn on lights and run anything while hooked to shore.

I use the VIctron Blue Smart IP22 30 amp unit. On Victron Connect you can change it from charger to power source and then adjust the voltage. It appears that smaller IP65 Blue Smart chargers can do the same. I personally love my 30 amp charger. I use it for many things including reconditioning automotive batteries and other lead acid.

Ok I’ll keep that one in mind.
Otherwise I would have to flip my beaker every time I wanted to switch the inverter off correct

To keep with the standard of not running the inverter without battery power already discussed, I would say yes. If you go with the 12v power supply option I would turn off the inverter, remove your batteries, connect and turn on the 12V power supply and turn the inverter back on.

Have any diagrams showing how to do this?
Or a dumbed down version for this old guy.
I just want the easiest solution to do this so it easy to do when the time comes.
Like remove batteries and flip a switch ya know.

Can you send me some picture of what you have installed already?

Nothing actually. lol.

I used to have an 2000 watt inverter and auto transfer switch but decided I wanted to go with a multiplus 2 2x120 so I ripped it all out and I’m slowly going to start installing. So as of now I have 2 switches all wired for the bypass and ready to put into camper this weekend and I have the multiplus installed.
I will have an mppt and 2 lithium batteries that will be tied into a lynx distributer and a cerbo gx I will get next year Some time.
So nothing to take a picture of as of yet.

Do you need a certain amount of posts to be able to add a picture? I don’t see an option to do so?

Drag a picture into the post below your text

Doing his on my phone so can’t drag a drop. I copied an pasted hopefully this works

It’s not the best picture but pretty much sums ip what I’m doing. Do you see anything wrong with it?

Your drawing looks to be correct. One simple way to integrate the 12V power source would be to have a simple 2 way battery switch between the battery and Lynx. One side of the switch selects battery the other the power source. Neither can be on at the same time and once switched to power source you can safely remove the battery. I would set the power source voltage high enough that the Multi doesn’t think it needs to charge it. 13.2V should be good I think.

Ugh another switch.
I wish there was a way to incorporate my converter into this. You would thing someone would have figured out a way by now.