I have three of these type of isolators, and they all feel like an ‘overwound spring’ as you describe it. Just the way they work - some sort of interlock I guess, so nothing to worry about there.
Plenty of wiring diagrams for these courtesy of Google. Attached is one for reference. You only need the 2 pole in series wiring for your size of system
879ee161-5321-4499-91e0-19ca68d19786.pdf (476.5 KB)
Cool thanks yeh it feels terrible to use
Thanks for info i been searching and got bit confused because the diagram on the switch are numbered different from the numbers on the switch as shown in me pictures so didnt know what to do except look again for the first pv switch i brought but didnt want to wait till 20th feb for him to send it when he back in NZ
Thanks again for that info this new switch was $ 80 but ill hook it up and give it a try
Ok back for someone to check this ok
Not yet connected to solar PV or mppt at the moment. But did i do this neg and pos as per diagram show for 2 pole .
Edit,ill check pv power tomorrow with multimeter to check before i conect to mppt to see if got current or not
Gezz losing my memory lol
Oh see i forgot to mention this suntree housing only came with the screw hole grommets and i dont have anything large that size so i turned it upside down so the 2 holes at the bottom and drilled 2 holes in the back for pv wires and its spaced out from the wall with 10mm spacers so pv wires are free and not squashed in any way and for now run both out 1 bottom hole,i will get some proper fittings for that
Thanks again and if this wrong tell me , 
Don’t switch that on! I think you have your connections cross wired 
Pretty sure circuit is made across 1&2 and 3&4
In your example red in 1&2 and black in 3&4
Get your multimeter across the terminals and check before you reconnect.
yip it was late and mind was struggling to do simple task, not sure whats wrong with me lately.
Yip definitely had wire crossed but sorted now and checked that pv current goes on and off which it does so that was lucky thank you,
I did buy another PV isolation , a 2 pole 63a in switch form inside a box pre cabled just as spare incase i not like using this one,sure takes some twist pressure to turn on and off but it works which us the main thing, i guess its related to the clear spring loaded door on the front which is a right pain to open so i can see that coming off, i want to be able to get access to the switch ,not fight to get in there
Thanks again
Ian
All back together, took the super spring loaded door off the pv isolation box,or i should say human finger mouse trap, now rest my brain
Another pic , got bored,everything working well , I think i need a new board to screw everything to it again 
Got bored again changed out my 3 switch boxs to a 6 pole enclosure box and added another 10amp inline fuse,only get 3amps off the panel but just another safety item
Other 2 pole enclosure arrive but used to the suntree tough as nuts isolation switch now , more battery cables on the way so i can move battery and that probably make me redesign how things are, all works but dont like how things are configured due to cable length i have .
Might not seem like much but come long way since my first sad set up as seen in picture with the EPEVER and a cheap inverter that cooked when the EPEVER spiked , gezz i cringe looking at that lol, 
Question please
Are these inline fuses commonly used. I ask because i turn system on today and had NO pv input and since this is all i added i remove and systems all go again,it is only a 10amp but that shouldn’t stop it working correct unless blow or faulty
Thanks
Ian
Uncle Google says inline fuse goes between pv and mppt , thats where i had it , weather it makes a difference or not before or after the dc iso switch, some say after the pv isolation before the mppt so guess i had it in wrong spot ,I binned it anyways
Thanks
Just a update, yeh i know got a lot to learn but have learnt bit more since last post especially on this inline fuse which i never needed lol.
Anyways all been good till today, had full sun and only tv goin noticed when i look in app the old battery was struggling a bit like not goin above 12.3v in bulk charge cause i just turn on I got a victron battery monitor also and it was red flash not green,did restart during the day but with no load but dont trust battery now, normally already to float if not already floating at 13.6v , nothing been changed but notice about week ago some white residue on top of battery where its glued closed bein sealed, i wipe thinking it was dust in the join but notice it today same thing, i should have got pic but doin something and forgot before i wipe it again because im sure the battery was staring to leak .remind me of crystal starting to form, multimeter did read few different battery voltages so its knocking on heavens door.
Also in app when i tryed to see voltage and why the red light and lack of input to battery when solar volts was near 30v the info from app could not be viewed ,said something about after a restart the info was lost unlike other info thats saved and can view so something happened ( nothing blew up so that was good ) but would have liked to see the graph playback but nothing untill the next restart to find this info.
When i notice the low battery voltage i did turn the pv off first followed by inverter but left the mppt on to see info which was gone somewhere north,
Im pretty sure the cause of loss of info was battery given up well i hope it was,receipt is from 2023 for the battery ha so warranty bit out,its been busy and did i write all that sorry
Well moral of this story is looks like I’m battery hunting , $$$$$$$$$$$:face_with_head_bandage: cheapest i find so far is lithium 50amp 100ah at $ 499 instead of lead boat anchor batt, I can see another bank visit coming , buy cheap buy twice 
Ok another unsure question please.well i added another panel to increase amps on cloudy days and works well since i can use system everyday now unlike using a single panel,specs in picture of panel
Ok i guess the no reply means that low amps is nornal and i just need same rated panel to improve my situation, searched all day in this and i should see more amp displayed so duno whats happened, I knew about voltage drop due to the lower voltage panel ,thats just fine for my little set up but amps should increase from both panels . Im seeing the opposite,
You mentioned your battery not being well. It could be related to that. It may have high internal resistance. You have also set your max charge current to 3A. I think i saw it is related to your batery not rated to take more than that (C rating) or have I got my wires crossed?
Sorry the post is long. Its alot to take in before trying to give a relative answer.
Hi, pls set your max charge current to 5amps.
Set absorption time to fixed.
Set tail current as low as possible.
Then turn off the charger to restart with a bulk cycle.
Thanks ok , 2 screenshots of just tv running in app at 5amp max charge ,was full sun, went cloudy and voltage keept dropping so turned tv off till i get sorted, In app settings about fixed absorption it says high risk of over charging and to turn OFF tail current, is this what i need to do, just double checking before i do due to unsurity, just by these screenshot figures its like only working from 1 panel but i could be very wrong , still got training wheels on at this end, I can run tv off main power but that was the idea of solar , have to pay new license this week but might just get another 200w panel so they match ,cant really afford anything to go wrong due to this is my house(caravan) and not keen on living in the car again
Thanks for the advice, brain confused with internet information overload so just want to keep this simple reliable and safe, seems bit of a waste just to use solar to listen to radio which is all its doin but guess thats all part of learning but im lost now
Hi,
my 32" needs around 4 amps, i bet you have a larger screen.
So you won’t overcharge your batteries if the power goes staight from panel to panel 
Ah i see, yip 42inch 60w veon tv, my 200w panel can run it alone and in float but need full sun but the single panel is sad on cloudy days so to me its odd tv drains heaps of voltage with 2 panels as to why im thinking 1 panel isnt working ,even bulk charge the volts dont increase and thats where i turn tv off and its straight up to 14 absorption and then floats. My upgrade has downgraded me and dispite bein a rookie i know i should have more amps than whats currently there ,I have to give up till i get another panel i think but appreciate the advice cause im pretty lost when it should be working fine , its total waste just to have this set up to have radio goin
Thanks anyway 
You can watch tv on your 10" pad…so does my wife 
10/1 Samsung already does that - utube, Netflix for the wrestling lol,about all i watch.
Tv on main power in evening anyway due to my lack of battery power but working on it, I pretty much lose solar power about 4.30pm now due to heavy shading from trees now days are getting shorter , i probably lose 3 hours of light before its dark but this is first week of everyday use since i install the EPEVER about 3 years ago (victron now )and only using on sunny days because only had the 1 panel so to use now in any weather has been awsome, pity the tv cant keep up but its close, I plan to check conections cause been watching app working away and sometimes see extra current from somewhere and then drops out , Bad Y conector mayby, can afford another Y conector so might try another to eliminate that,
Good stuff thanks again
Always remember that with a 42Ah lead battery you have ar the most 25 usable amphours ie 300wh…almost NOTHING.
And you’ll need at least 350Wh to charge it.
So before investing in more solar it would be better to search around for a good deal on a 100Ah lithium battery, it stores 3+ times the usable power and has less losses.
Lithium super top $$ here out of my reach, even agm deep cycle batterys nearly 400 each , thats why i brought the crap battery, and prices stilk going up or would have brought good stuff from day 1, even got the inverter from Australia due to our rip off prices ,mppt was 280
Only just turned system off because of shade but suns pumping which sux,17 at 0.1a so just like rest of the week early shut down and hello todays 120+ yeild has gone from app so duno whats up with that,twice ive lost data now and have my hammer out now so it better wake up before it gets thrown out the door,
To be honest the patience is pretty thin at 55 and wont take much more before one just quits because i simply just cant afford buying stuff, It was a idea that spiral out of control and now to a point where more is needed ,with that comes the full time off switch since i can’t sort it,.
Thanks for help and advice but i think im done
Ok, this graph is showing your system is always only in bulk for a short time, then goes to float.
The maximum power you take from the panels is limited by your despeately low charge current, it will never exceed 70 Watts.
Buying more panels will not help !!
So either your battery is always full, hence the charger is always in float, or you are losing voltage between charger and battery, the charger sees 14.4…and says full.
Did you enter the parameters as i told you ???
Then the system should run at least 2 hours full speed, but it doesn’t look like it.
Pls don’t second guess on my data.
