So I bought two lynx distributers and ended up reducing the number of attachments needed. I also received different guidance on how to attach my batteries so I need a lynx power in.
Since I already have the distributer and need a Power in, can I just attach my batteries to the other lynx distributer and add fuses and put the shunt and switch between the distributors, Essentially just using the distributer as a power in with fuses?
A Distributor is basically a Power In with fuse locations. I have used a Lynx Distributor as a Power In lots of times. I love it that I can fuse each battery in the Lynx. Some people even adapt the power in with bolts so it can hold fuses.
Yes, in fact to use your distributor as a power in can just skip the megafuses and connect the positives direct to the positive bus bar like a power in. If you don’t connect the RJ plug from the lynx shunt it won’t illuminate the red lights due to the missing fuses.
There’s a pretty cool hack for this too.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8h-E1lkYCKg
I already have the fuses so I figured on using them but now I’m seeing that I should also be fusing the terminals of my rack mount batteries within 8” of the battery power terminals. So I guess 4 MRBF terminals and fuses… guessing I DONT need the Class T after the distributer. SMH, that’s $150 out the window
Oh cool! Nate is the one who told me to wire every battery individually to a power in instead of linking them in parallel then running a single positive from the top of the rack and negative from the bottom. Now I’m trying to get parts switched and figured.
Which batteries? They may already have breakers? MRBF generally doesn’t have sufficient AIC rating for 48V LFP (better suited for 12V and 24V).
8” requirement may be for ABYC?
SOK 48v 100AH … didn’t even think about the breakers on them 
. I’m talking to AI too much and people to little.
AI is generally garbage and especially so for critical battery details.
So as it stands I have a DC switch between distributer positives and smart shunt between Distributer negatives. Is that ok?
Should be good. Is it a 275A Victron switch? Some of the knock off brands can run pretty hot.
It’s the BEP 400A
I added a photo. The bars are 1” X 1/4” solid copper
This is exactly how I did my setup. Working great.
So I had a hiccup. Turns out the floor of the storage bay is aluminum and not stainless. My new plan is to include stainless fender washers between the copper bus bar and aluminum floor. Do you have any other recommendations?
I would say as long as the area is not exposed to road salts and you use a buffer material to keep any corrosion that might develop away from the chassis then your probably just fine with periodic checks for corrosion. Do you use this as the primary ground (no negative loop back wiring from devices)? If so I would do yearly checks to ensure that any corrosion is not causing loose joints and extra heat. Use a good de ox to better seal the connection off from salts and moisture that would quicken any corrosion. Use a nickel or zinc plated crimp to further buffer the two metals. With a periodic safety check I dont think you will have much of a problem.
