Ive been running the easysolar 24 3000 for around 4 years with no problems. I have 2x victron bluesmart lifepo 12,8v batteries hooked up.
Recently my Mum gave me a coffee machine.
It apparently draws 1700 watts and when I run it, the color control displays approx 1700 watts being drawn.
However it must turn its element on and off a lot, very quickly, too quick for the easysolar inverter to keep up with, as the kitchen light turns off for a second, then comes back on… repeatedly.
One day when I ran the coffee machine, my soundbar stopped working… maybe due to not enough power making into one of the components. I had to buy a new sound bar.
I stopped using the coffee machine.
Recently my air fryer was running and the lights turned off for a second then came on again. Im used to the air fryer making the lights flicker a bit but not completely off.
Im wondering if people think this is normal behaviour for tge inverter, or whether if may need a service or repair?
Or perhaps there is a setting in the inverter i can adjust safely, for a faster response time to varying power draws?
Welcome to the Community! I have the twin sister - a Nespresso coffee machine, and mine can theoretically draw 1720W if everything is going.
Can you tell us a bit more about the batteries and cabling etc.?
Which Victron BMS do you have, battery capacity (eg 180Ah x 2 = 360Ah), wire gauge, length, and fusing? Am suspecting maybe a voltage drop “brownout” on the DC side
I’m sure other folks more experience will have additional thoughts.
Hmmm… maybe the 2 batteries are in series, for 24V (25.6V nominal) as I see the 27.1v on the color control panel… but not sure about the capacity (eg 180Ah?) you have available. A guess on the current would be > 70A from the batteries.
the diameter of the cables is 13mm including the plastic sheath…
I am using the V.E. Bus BMS which was recommended for the bluesmart batteries.
The BMS seems to be doing its job well, its shut the power off a few times when the batteries have gotten too low… and the cells are perfectly balanced across both batteries
I made the cables myself which could be a problem seeing as I have never done that before…
Ive decided to pay for some custom cables to be made… that will at least eliminate the cables ad the cause, and maybe it might solve the problem.
Victron seem to recommend 50mm2 cables… ive found a service in Australia who will make 70mm2 copper with copper lugs… do you think that sounds appropriate?
Before you start changing things or spending money, you probably should do the voltage and current checks. Get yourself a multimeter, preferrable with a clamp that can measure AC and DC current. I use a Klein Tools CL390.
Also, put a heavy load on the inverter for a few minutes continuously - like a small heater or hair dryer that will draw 1500-1800W.
Check to see if the cable and terminals are getting very warm or hot at any connection point. If so, then that’s likely your problem.
I use a small FLIR thermal camera to check for hot spots.
Your cables look nicely made but could be shorter. I’m not sure what kind of fuse/fuseholder you have. Class T for LFP batteries is now the norm due to its high AIC so it can interrupt the circuit at high current.
If you do get some made, tally up the total length and figure out the current to know what gauge you need. 50mm2 could be ok if kept short, 70mm2 would be better. And the wire should be the really fine strand flexible cable - as used in marine applications or highly flexible welding cable. Tinned copper lugs that are hydraulic crimped are good.
It’s really a good idea to get some help from a professional - even pay an hour (or buy a coffee for a chat) goes a long way.
I have taken some readings while running my clothes dryer, which draws around 1800 - 2200 watts.
All the thermal images around my batteries and cables seem to show that they aren’t getting too warm (unless I’m mistaken).
Also, the multimeter shows around -67amps which is the same as what the color control is indicating.
I’m not sure if that is the expected amperage or not?
I didn’t try measuring voltage yet as I’m not sure how to do it without short circuiting etc?
The appliance regulates power by rapidly switching a triac partway through the AC cycle instead of drawing smooth current.
The inverter’s voltage-correction loop can’t fully compensate for that stepped, asymmetric draw in real time, so the output voltage dips slightly — visible as flicker, especially on dimmable LED drivers that are sensitive to waveform distortion.
So the issue is likely that rather than a physical problem or a damged anything, just an electric interaction. Sometimes accompanied by an interesting sound from the inverter.
Newer units have faster reactions now so are not affected the same way.
I have an older 24v 3kVa for reference (and an oscilloscope)
One thing that does improve it a little is a DC wire upgrade to 95mm².
