Before running too many cables I hoped that someone could check over this diagram. Solar (victron) and split charge (non-victron) inputs with battery undervoltage protection (victron).
Any comments would be appreciated
Hi, A Fuse (~20A) in the positive to the MPPT would be a good idea…
The MPPT also has load output which can handle loads up to 15A - this also has ‘battery protect’ function, so can be used for light loads…
Greggy, more details needed. Cable size, cable length, loads, etc.
You need more Over Current Protection. If there’s a cable, it probably needs a fuse or breaker.
Added a fuse on the +ve MPPT and added main current cable thicknesses
In terms of load, the biggest would be the fridge but that will mainly be on while engine is running. Other than that it would be lights, phones and a 12v TV. So may draw over the 15A provided by the MPPT but wouldn’t be by much
As per last diagram.
Fuses would be required at the yellow X.
And after the the SBP, a fuse block to protect the smaller cables running to the consumers.
Note. 10mm (8awg) cable would be at it’s upper limit for a 60a fuse.
Depending on the charge currents involved, maybe using a thicker cable would be better.
Blue X would be an ideal lcation for a shunt.
24 amps from the PV is kind of high. I usually try to keep the volts high and amps low. But that approach often requires a more expensive solar charge controller due to the voltage.
I agree with what @water_rat wrote. If you have a single battery, the shunt is optional but nice to have. Some BMS aren’t very good at coming up with an accurate state of charge. The shunt is much better at that. If you have more than one battery, the shunt will save time. You still need to periodically use the BMS app to check the cell balances.
For your common busbars, make sure they’re real copper, not brass. A lot of the inexpensive four post busbars are brass. If you’re pushing very many amps it makes a difference. If it’s not many amps, not such a big deal.