I stripped the negative (-) battery terminal screw on my 150/45 SmartSolar MPPT controllers. I don’t think this mistake is something I can warranty, but I also don’t want to throw it away if I can repair or work around the problem.
Questions:
Is the PV Minus (-) terminal connected internally directly to the Battery Minus (-) terminal? If so, this could be a way for me to use it by sharing the PV minus input.
Can the SmartSolar 150/45 be taken apart and the terminal block replaced?
I read a thread on a smaller MPPT controller and the author wrote that the terminal block is replaceable if you are good at soldering. I am very good at soldering/PCB rework but I will need to remove the housing and separate the board from the heat sink. Is this possible? (I’ve read that the entire assembly is potted)
If yes, does anyone have a part number for this terminal block?
Has anyone successfully warranteed this? (guessing no as it falls under misuse)
Thanks for your help. I’m pretty bummed I did this. I own 3 of these, 2 with slotted screw heads, and this one with the Phillips screw head and was surprised to strip the screw (just spins)
The negative between battery and PV is common, however im not certain that there is no component between the two terminals, for example a shunt or similar.
The block itself surely is replaceable, once you get the PCB out, or at least the heatsink off. But thats the part that ive struggled before, since the internals are potted into the top shell. In assembly, i assume the PCB gets bolted to the heatsink first, then that assembly is placed into the top shell which is filled with potting compound.
Id give it a try using the PV negative for battery negative as well. Worst that can happen is your half dead MPPT will fully die, but id say thats unlikely to happen, more likely some power measurment will be way off.
As for the type, im not sure. AMP/TE 1986660-2 seems to be a close fit, but they are only made in green and black, not light gray
OGPS
(Ed @ Off-Grid Power Systems - offgridps.com)
3
Have you asked your dealer about it? If you purchased from your local dealer, you might be surprised what they can do. If you purchased on Amazon, find the actual seller (hint: it’s not Amazon) and contact them. As @chrigu said, it’s not going to be easy to get it apart w/o damaging other components.
Last night I removed the 4 side screws holding the lid on, but yeah, the potting compound has everything glued to the lid. I’m afraid of ripping components or even stressing the PCB and causing cracks in traces if I keep prying on it too hard.
It looks like the PCB is raised off the heat sink - and based on the screws I see coming through the heatsink, I wonder if there are TO-220 cased transistors soldered to the backside of the board and the tabs of the transistors bolted to the heat sink. Might end up tearing pads or legs off transistors too.
Lastly, I can see the terminal block pins coming through and soldered to the PCB, so I think there’s a fighting chance to fix it if I can get the lid off. The potting compound seems to be the reworkable type.
Meanwhile I’ll try pairing the two negative at the PV- terminal and see if it works normally.
This was an Amazon purchase but I always use either Pikes or Inverters R Us as the seller. I’ll see what they say.
Thanks again!
Dave
OGPS
(Ed @ Off-Grid Power Systems - offgridps.com)
5
This breaks my heart. Support your closest or bestest dealer! You’d be surprised what they can offer over the “I must absolutely have this the very next day” e-seller if you are loyal. Of course, that holds true for any local business relationship.
@Dave805
There are tear-downs on youtube where you can see the internals. Like this one.
Yes, there are transistors below bolted on the heatsink.
And from the looks, at about 6:10 on, the two center terminals - GND - are common.
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OGPS
(Ed @ Off-Grid Power Systems - offgridps.com)
10
I’ve tried opening them up because it’s such a huge amount of waste to simply dispose of something that can be repaired. I assume it’s cheaper for Victron to have them manufactured this way and offer a complete replacement, but it’s still a large amount of e-waste. We take them for recycling, but I don’t know what actually happens to them. In the end, though, it’s not worth the effort. The same is true with the IP43 chargers, or least some of the early ones.
WOW! There’s no way to take it apart per that photo. The whole line of electrolytic caps are glued to the cover, and the two big inductors. He even ripped all the power transistors off the board.
Pretty sure I cannot - I can’t get the original screw out and to drill it will cause a lot of damage as they have the block buried in the upper cover assembly (the screw is accessed through a hole).
GOOD NEWS HOWEVER! Victron gave the OK to replace the unit so Inverters R Us is shipping me out a new 150/45 SmartSolar controller.
Thanks for bringing up the idea that it might be warranted - it was!
Support your closest or bestest dealer! You’d be surprised what they can offer over the “I must absolutely have this the very next day” e-seller if you are loyal. Of course, that holds true for any local business relationship.