Hello
I have a MP2 GX in my garage.
Do you know how the airflow is going inside the MP2 ? Where is the input of fresh air and where is the output of “heated” air ?
Thanks
Matt
So the obvious question is… Why do you ask? Please supply some background and context.
The input is from the connections side, it passes through the H bridge FETs and then it “bathes” the LF transformer before exiting the upper grille.
You have a picture in the manual…
Hi @alexpescaru
It is the technical answer. BUT in years of installing I’ve learned there is always a reason someone asks a question. Simply answering without understanding context and reasoning can lead
to this:
Q: Can I get out of my cars passenger side safely?
A: Yes
… So days later.
Told my friend he could get out of my cars passenger side safely, now he’s in hospital. When he hit the road at 50MPH he badly injured himself… YOU never warned me about this! I thought you knew I meant when travelling.
Just look at the extensive number of of issues on here, with days of input only to discover a material fact had been omitted.
Q: Can the safety catch on my rifle be set to off?
A: Yes
A few days later…
Accidentally shot my friend when I set the safety catch to off, YOU didn’t tell me if I then pulled the trigger it would fire. This is my first rifle or weapon of any type. I was hoping to get some good advice.
This is why bad advice is always quick and free.
The literature for the Multiplus states that it can be mounted in any orientation. So when someone ask a question about cooling, we need to know why someone wants to know about cooling?
Do they have a current over heating question really?
What could be causing the current overheating issue? (We are simply treating a symptom not the underlying cause by giving incomplete information without context)
As a Multiplus under normal conditions should easily be able to perform without cooling issues, it’s pertinent to gather context and additional information.
The OP stated:
So, what is the ambient temperature of the garage, does it have a boiler or other heat source in there. Is it used for wood cutting, with lots of dust that blocks grills etc?
The answer as to why the OP asked the question could be ‘just curious, no other reason’ or there could be more. The REAL reason the question was asked.
Thanks for the sharp answer @alexpescaru.
@anon39974850 : to fill out your curiosity 
:
I live in southern France, and my MultiPlus-II is experiencing its first summer (it was installed last December). It’s installed in my garage which is not insulated, so the temperature inside is rising (currently around 30°C).
I’m now encountering high-temperature warnings — and sometimes alarms — under heavy long lasting load conditions (such as Tesla charging with solar overproduction at 3kW (thus bringing the MP2 to generate heat) + suddenly, some additional loads coming, rising the MP2 temperature above the alert(while not overloading the MP2 max power capacity)). This was not an observed behavior earlier in similar loads situation.
This is clearly due to the recent increase in ambient temperature.
Since I have the option to bring in fresh air from another room (and I don’t want to cool the entire garage unnecessarily), I would like to know exactly where to direct this fresh air to cool the MP2 effectively.
Which model of MP do you have? 48/10000+?
Which Tesla charger are you using?
Define ‘heavy load’
48/5000
When charging from solar, I am using my mobile charger (max 13A@230v AC)
Heavy load can be here defined as a 3.5kw load since more that 30 minutes, on top of which you put some power peaks of daily life that creates the overheat situations (which is a situation that was easily managed before having the ambient temperature rise).
Any way, I have the needed information I was seeking for. Thanks !
I would say this. Simply cooling a stressed MP is NOT a solution. You will shorten the life of the product and could over time lead to serious failure of a component or the entire product.
How do we know it is being stressed? You originally simply asked about airflow / fan.
But you now say:
I would say either the MP has shut down on an overheat event or you are seeing the over temp led flashing.
In the manual Victron says this;
Flashing Temperature LED: The internal temperature is reaching a critical level.
You should also know that as temperature increases, electrical resistance does too, this increases temperature…and round it goes.
The manual for your product states clearly:
Cont. output power at 25 °C (W) 4000
Cont. output power at 65 °C (W) 3000
3000W continuous at 65C. This is with the internal fan cooling, which will be running I assure you.
You state that your ambient temp is 30C and output is 3500W, but you are getting an overheat event. The additional loads are almost certainly running your MP at above the rated output of your product.
High temperatures in electrical systems that are correctly installed are a WARNING.
Additional cooling as part of usual operation is NOT a solution, especially at an ambient 30C.
MOST electrical fires start with an overheating event.
I’d urge you to investigate and address the cause of your overheating, which seems like excess loading of your MP.
YOUR SAFETY and that of your family, friends and neighbours is potentially at stake and I don’t say that lightly.
Consider preventing the overheating issue or upgrading to a more suitable product with a higher rated output like the Quattro 48/10000 that could handle all of you load demands.
Cooling your system is no problem, i do that too
My 3ph system is in a separate room in my house, accesible from outside only
and without cooling temp can rise to over 40c in there in summer (NL) normal running no high loads
With active cooling, i can keep it 15-20c cooler in there, fresh air from outside flows thru the room and vented out at my rooftop
I have better cooling fans in the multis (silent), extra bottom fans and active room ventilation
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People are absolutely free to reduce the life of their products or burn their own property of course.
They just can’t complain about it later. There is also a duty of care we all have.
An ambient temperature of 40C still should not produce an overheating event, if the product is operating within it’s design envelope, and I suspect in your case you haven’t had such an event and you indicate it’s running within the manufacturers spec.
The OP seems to have actively had overheating events resulting either a LED warning or MP shutdown at 30C, and specifically caused by loads in excess of the operating characteristics of the product. The overloading is the issue, not the desire to cool actively or passively, which can / will extend service life in proper installations where equipment is operating within the operational spec of the product in question.
Luckily the OP got the answer they wanted, and also the one they needed. They are free to choose what to do and live with the outcome of either.
In other posts on here I’ve noted that often a poster will advise their installer has ‘stoppped responding’ ‘gone awol’ or is ‘out of contact’.
I now understand why. Installers are not there to simply tell you what you want to hear or tell you you can do what you are suggesting. They offer professional advice, not consent. Once your installer has issued advice people simply can’t badger them until they get the answer they WANT.
This is why I would advise a client of my advice in writing and advise I have nothing more to add, then not respond with anything more than refer to my prefer advice in such a situation. The installer is legally responisible for the installation. Ever wonder why good installers take photos and video of completed installs, lock out settings, and produce an ‘installation’ report or certificate. When have all had installs tampered with and when it goes wrong I can assure you people are slow to blame themselves.
There are plenty of people who want advice and help on open forums and they are committed to listening to it, and implementing it, but they end up being serviced by a dwindling pool of professional installers.
The reality is good professional installers are really busy installing, or fixing poor DIY or amateur installer systems. Their time is precious and they help when and where they can, they have great support networks via manufacturers, distributors, other installers and hands-on experience.
You’ll get comment like. Victron is rubbish! Only lasted 2 years, then you find out the background… and the surprise is after the appalling abuse the kit got that it last even 2 years.
Victron is some of the best, robust and well supported kit you will ever invest in pound for £… when properly installed and operated it will give you years, into decades, of reliable service.
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