Hi all slightly confused which charger should I get with regards to dc dc
If I go for the 30 amp and it is more than I need is this also a bad thing/Negative
Assuming that this will be taking power from a vehicle alternator. In this case it is best to keep the current drawn to around 50% of the alternator output as typically, the quoted output is cold and not the continuous supply.
When delivering 30A, the current in will be closer to 35A due to inefficiency and voltage boost.
The battery being charged can normally accept 30A unless it is small (less than 60Ah lithium or 200Ah lead acid).
The newer 50A Orion XS is more efficient and the settings can be used to limit the maximum current in or out.
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So Based on the below information what model would you recommend please (other then xs)
For your 2011 Ford Transit Mk7 with a 2.4L (2402 cc) engine producing 113 bhp, the standard alternator is a 14V, 150-amp unit. This specification is designed to meet the vehicle’s electrical demands, ensuring efficient battery charging and reliable operation of all electrical systems. Â
A 30A Orion will not overload a 150A alternator.
Assuming 12V house battery then you either need the Orion Smart non-isolated 12/12-30 if the house battery negative is connected to the engine battery negative, either directly or through the chasis.
If the house battery negative is not connected to the engine battery negative then you need the Orion Smart 12/12-30 isolated version.
Thanks for your help at the moment my leisure/house battery died I was use split charge relay so I’m upgrading to lithium and dc to dc
For some reason the non isolated version is more expensive the non isolated so at the moment I had the house battery to the chassis but if I get the isolated version I can just go back to the battery right?
If you buy non isolated the house battery must be connected to chassis. If you buy the isolated version then the house battery can be disconnected from the chassis.
Merhaba. 5 yıl önce aldığım 100A lifepo4 akümü hala kullanmaktayım. Geçen yıl orion 12 12 30 aldım ve benim için sonuç olumsuz oldu. BMS şarjı sürekli kesti. Yaptığım testlerde bataryamın max. şarj akımının 20A olduğunu öğrendim. Orion çıkış akımı 30A ve sınırlandırılamadığı için bataryanın BMS’si şarjı kesiyor. Şu an için 3 seçeneğim var. Ya victron’un yazılım güncellemesi ile şarj akımını sınırlandırmasını bekleyeceğim ya akümü değiştireceğim ya da orion’u satıp yeni bir xs alacağım. Yaşadıklarım umarım size yardımcı olmuştur.
Thanks for your reply has anyone else ran into this problem? Based on all the answers above I’m abolutley going to order the DC/DC 12/12 30 but I don’t want to run into problems with the battery essentially for my use I am after roughly a 100 AH lithium battery, however if AGM is more suited then that could work also
Also, would an option for you be to go for the 12 12 18? or this this not suit?
30 amps are ok for 100Ah lithium, too much for AGM, then 18a is more suitable.
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I’m currently torn between buying the 12 12 30 or the new 12 12 50A XS
Based on my vehicles alternator and its ability to charge the specified leisure battery.
In your guys opinion will it be better to buy the XS and the same ECO Worthy battery or should I go for the older 12 12 30 and a different battery?
Thanks in advance Garry
Depends on your budget, the XS is certainly an investment that keeps open all possibilities, if you don’t plan to change anything in the future you can just as well take the TR
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Ok so the XS providing budget isn’t an issue, what to do you mean by TR
The non XS units are labelled TR
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My system is really basic in the future I may potentially add a second leisure battery of the same AH but thats about it.
I’m just a bit reluctant to go with the ECO Worthy battery if the DC DC charger has issues with it
I’m currently trying to find a programme where I can draw a schematic that may help explain my systems needs
At the moment I have no electrics in the back due to deep discharge leisure battery and disconnected solar
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Which one ???.
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Which ever battery you choose, check the spec including the BMS, most 100Ah batteries will allow 50A charge as normal and max 100A.
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This link is for the battery I’m looking to purchase (Amazon seems to be where I can bulk all this stuff in germany)
There is also the same model without bluetooth
Based on the reply above from “kara.vanlife” he mentioned the incompatibility with regards to charging the battery
Kara.vanlife must have an odd battery with a max charge limit below 30A this is the first time I have seen this issue at such a low charge current. As I suspected, the one you are looking at is 100A so you will not have that problem.
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Ok perfect so to be on the safe side, based on what I’ve read I can go ahead and get the battery with the bluetooth so the will help/act as a BMS and then go for the DC DC 50A XS to be safe (incase of voltage problems) would this all seem ok so far?