Giandel 3,000W 24V Pure Sine Wave. It inverts to 120V. The change is very minimal and may have been related to the previous charge controller. I also had 4 batteries at the time. I now have six and they are well balanced. My output voltage from them is a lot more constant.
As far as the wind charge contoller is concerned, I know it diverts correctly. When it was connected before, I had seen the dump load get triggered and felt it generate heat. It has not overcharged the batteries before.
I suppose however I could rig up a small 24V battery that would fill rapidly and switch to dump load fairly often. I could attach the shunt to it and observe.
I ordered a pair of small (12V-9AH) LiFePO batteries that I can set up as 24V. Then I can set up the wind as a separate system to test the dump load. They should arrive about the same time as the Smart Shunt. Batteries that small should fill quickly and trigger the dump load faster, even at night.
My system has 6x 12V 100AH AGMs, so it would take a long time for them to fill. Based on my wind patterns, it would probably only do so during the day when the solar charge controller is working.
Makes sense to test this even though I am 95% sure this works.
Wind generator charege controller and dumpload are set back up. They are currently routed to the pair of small 12V batteries, so the final dressing of the wiring cannot be completed.
Top left is the brake switch which shorts out the three lines coming in from the generator (3-phase AC). This will effectively stop the generator from spinning until the wind is about 15 MPH. At that point you do not want it on because it will burn up the generator.
Next to it is the rectifier which receives the AC current and converts it to 24V AC. The positive line either goes to the batteries or the dump load.
The relay switches the positive line from batteries to resistors and is controlled by the voltmeter, which does not channel the charge as a charge controller would. It just monitors the bank charge and controls the relay. It will dump at 28.8V, and come back on at 27.2V.
There are 2 diodes in the rectifier that convert the power, but they will not send voltage to the batteries unless the converted voltage is about 1.4V higher than the battery voltage.
The positive line coming down next to the Victron is temporary and is going to I can either connect it to the circuit breaker next to the inverter or run it to the bus bar by sending the wire behind the panel and down to the battery bank which is located underneath everything.
The negative lines run to the Smart Shunt. When I connect the wind generator to the system I will connect the negative line from the Controller’s line out to the smart shunt input and then run the output to the battery bank. The rectifier negative will also stay connected to the shunt. I will probably run the negative dump load wire to the battery bus.
Inverter negative goes directly to the battery bank. It bypasses the shunt. The red dial switch to the lower left of the inverter is the master switch which shuts everything down at the batteries. My battery bank and bus bars are located on a shelf underneath the top of the workbenc area in front of these electronics.
When the generator is integrated into this system, the negative line of the dump load will also connect directly to the battery bank bus bar, as will the positive. The negative battery line from the charge controller will connect tthrough the shunt, so both wind and solar will connect through the same smart shunt.
