I have a 2019 Ford Ranger and travel trailer with a single solar panel. I have a Phoenix Smart IP43 12/50 (1+1), a SmartSolar 75-15, and a BMV-712 installed. I currently have two Lifeline AGMs but will be installing two 100 Ah lithium batteries soon. I have no plans to add more solar to the trailer roof, but may buy a portable panel.
I want to stay with Victron for a DC-DC converter and I want a “smart” device so it will communicate with the solar charger and BMV-712.
My question is: which DC-DC converter should I get. I’m not sure how much current the Ranger alternator can support, so I would like a DC-DC converter that has an adjustable output. I’m also considering initially installing the DC-DC converter to run off the 7-pin charge wire (10 gauge), so this is another reason I would like the converter to have an adjustable output current. (If I’m not happy with the charging run of the 7-pin, I could then run cable from the Ranger to enable higher output current.) It looks like the only Victron DC-DC converter with an adjustable output is the Orion XS. Am I correct?
If by “converter” you mean 12VDC:12VDC
charger that can accept 12V from the alternator/starter battery and charge a 12V leisiure battery, then the Orion XS is just the ticket.
“Smart” so it talks to the other Smart stuff. Adjustable output current (50A max.)
Bonus for the $$, it’s far more efficient and runs much, much cooler than the fixed output units.
Thanks very much, RaySun,
Yes, I mean a DC-DC charger; sorry for the confusion. (Victron refers to these as DC-DC Converters under “Products” on their web site.)
I plan to mount this in my travel trailer near the shunt and negative and positive bus bars. My plan is to connect the “positive in” to the charge wire of the 7-pin connector from my truck (my understanding is this has power only when the truck is running), the “ground” to the negative bus bar, and the “positive out” to the positive bus bar, with an inline fuse (blade type 30 amp).
Then, hoping I can get info regarding what my truck’s electrical system can support, I’ll set the maximum “output current” to something between 10 and 18 amps. If this doesn’t seem to be enough for my needs, I’ll run cables from my truck’s battery/chassis to the DC-DC charger.
Here are my questions:
Does this plan/strategy make sense?
Is it ok to use a blade-type fuse?
If I limit the output current to 15 amps, would the input current need to have a limit somewhat higher than this, like 20 or 25 amps?
Thanks in advance, Mark