Hello, My smartshunt burned out when I tried to start it up (marked in red), so I replaced it with a new one, but unfortunately it also burned out when I applied voltage. What could I have done wrong? I connected the other two in the same way and they work fine.
What do you mean by burned out? Is it the electronics or is it the shunt itself? That’s the black iron raster part of the shunt. It’s difficult to say from a distance, but, something is definitely wrong. If the shuntresistor is burning out, then a very huge current is flowing through the shunt. That will also happen without connecting the +V of the shunt. If the electronics are burning out, then check the voltages which being applied to the shunt, sounds then that the electronics are getting a too high voltage.
Hello
Are you sure that you didn’t connect the shunt with reversed polarity?
hi, i’m sure
Did you measure the voltage between the thick negative cable and the small positive? The smartShunts can take between 6.5 and 70VDCis the 1A fuse still intact?
How do you supply the shunts with 48V?
Does each shunt come from “its” battery… before or after the BMS? Fused?
What would happen if the BMS disconnected the ground? Would the battery then get something from the + connection of the small shunt?
Is it the 300 A ? Did you have the BMS powered and working?
its 16P system ~54V,
on negative side first is BMS, second shunt
on positive side its oryginal small red wire with fuse
Yes is 300A, BMS work properly
You’re using a temperature sensor on the middle shunt… could you have mixed up a cable here?
Is the temperature sensor working?
… and is the fuse on the shunt still intact? … I would be surprised if it were.
Sounds crazy… but is the battery pack assembled the right way round?
midle shunt working correct - temp sensor also (cables not mixed)
fuse on +shunt wire didn’t blow
The battery pack is OK. The system has been running for almost a year. Now I just want to add a shunt to the every battery pack.
My brother had the same issue with the 300A SmartShunt when he tried to install it in the MPII 48/5000 and 280Ah battery system. He got a new one under warranty, but still hasn’t installed it. He’s going to check it on a 12V battery first.
I saw a similar issue in the Victron Facebook channel; the same element as in your photo was burned out.
Hi, thanks for your reply. Could you send me a link to this Facebook post?
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This same thing happened to me with a 500 amp smart shunt. The moment I hooked it up (correctly), it started sizzling inside and I smelled burnt electronics oder. It didn’t work, so I returned it to Amazon. Installed on 54 volt 16S LifePo4 battery.
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The new SmartShunt 300A was successfully tested on a 12V battery and installed in the 48V system. It was a lack of production; unfortunately, â– â– â– â– happens to everyone.
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Hi all,
I’ve asked for this to be looked into, I also saw the Facebook post and couldn’t see anything obvious to cause the failure.
It should be quickly replaced under warranty, for the Facebook report, the replacement unit also failed, but for now that is still the remedy.
If I find out more I’ll report back, otherwise I’d appreciate any other reports, along with serial numbers of affected units.
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Hi, I’ll wait for more information on this matter. At the moment, in my case, the seller does not want to replace the goods with new ones again, so I am forced to return the entire order placed with him (including two working shunts). Maybe I’ll try to equip my system with smartshunts again in a while, but for now I don’t want to risk it again.
S/N HQ251322YWM