Is this a valid way to wire the inverter to split between critical/non-critical loads?

I bought a multiplus compact 12/1600/70 for my RV. I was under the impression this had 2 AC outputs, one for the inverter output and one that was effectively a “pass-through” for the shore power to power non-backed-up loads, i.e my fridge, water heater and space heater that all switch to gas when I’m off of shore power. Upon installing it, I’ve discovered it does not have the seperate outputs and I’m assuming I have got that confused with another model

In light of this, would this be a valid/safe way to wire up the AC side to achieve the same thing? I don’t see why it wouldn’t be, but I just want someone to double check me on the safety aspect

Note this is a very rough quick drawing, I’ll probably combine the fridge/radiator/water heater/multiplus feed into a bank of MCB + 4xRCD, and i’ll probably split the sockets into multiple smaller circuits for each socket bank (I think my van wiring is split in to two banks) - ignore the specifics of the fuses (unless something is fundamentally wrong), the main purpose of this question is the split between inverter and non-inverter loads,

To be more specific

  • is it correct to have an RCBO upstream and downstream from the multiplus?
  • I assume the neutrals before the multiplus and after the multiplus must be kept seperate for the residual current monitoring to function correctly?
  • Am i correct in thinking I should have a higher rated downstream breaker, to account for the ~7a power assist?
  • Can I put all of these breakers into the same DIN enclosure, with an air gap between “inverted” breakers and “non inverted” breakers?

Yes, the multiplus models only have a single output. You’d have to use a multiplus II to get 2 outputs (critical and non critical load)

What you proposed will work just fine, as long as you are fine with not using these appliances on inverter power as a backup. Though you can work around that by shutting off the shore power feed to the inverter and plugging in your shore power cord to an inverter powered plug, which will power up your appliances. Definitely not ideal but it would work in a pinch, just be sure to disconnect shore power to the inverter as they do not like the infinite loop trick at all!

I don’t see anything fundamentally wrong in what you’ve proposed as long as it meets code for your area for insurance reasons

You may want to have an electrician help you with the earth-neutral boning so the RCBOs work correctly. When connected to shore the bond is made on the shore power input which should be bonded but in inverter mode there is a relay that will close bonding neutral to earth.

All those appliances can also run off of gas, so definitely happy with them not draining the battery - thanks