Hi, Can anyone tell if the Blue Smart charger will work properly in this setup, and ensure that starter battery and household is topped up ?
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Yes that would work fine. I assume the AC charger would be shore powered?
Great thank you for your support.
I was in doubt if the charge voltage is enough to consistently turn on the DC-DC charger, and also if the charger can figure out which “charge mode” to go into (float bulk etc)
And yes, AC charger is shore powered.
Most of the setups i find online has the MPPT and shore-charger on the Lifepo4-side, and no other charging on the starter side (except from teh alternator). I find my setup more robust as the starter battery will always stay topped up
For the Orion xs
Default setting for engine on is 14v.
So the bulk charge stage for lead acid from AC charger should trigger it.
Default shutdown is 13.1v so it should stay active when the AC charger switches to float
Same with the MPPT
The Orion xs is all fully adjustable anyway so can be set to whatever you need.
https://www.victronenergy.com/media/pg/Orion_XS_12-12-50A_DC-DC_battery_charger/en/operation,-configuration-and-monitoring.html
One additional question:
The dc-dc is either “on” or “off”, and when it is “on” it will charge at full capacity (50A) - if the leisure battery allows for it.
When the engine in my boat is idling, the alternator is only putting out 30A, it needs more revs to get up to the 60-70A range. When idling i will have an current deficit of 20A and drain the starter battery right ?
You can adjust the charge current in the Orion XS to what you want. Just be careful the charge controller and DC-DC charger are non-isolated which means an internal fault could see the solar panel voltage on the battery and the lithium battery connected to the AGM. Both would be dangerous situations. I add a battery protect between the charge controller and battery to disconnect if there is over-voltage and use the isolated DC-DC chargers for different chemistry. Unfortunately, the old isolated TR DC-DC chargers are not as good as the new XS. You might also be able to use an Argodiode to isolate the 2 batteries.
The lithium battery in parallel with the AGM is not overly dangerous, at least at rest.
Yeah at the same SOC.
Even at a different SOC, there will just be a large current flow between the two until they equalise.
The wiring should always be sized properly to handle the maximum current flow.
If you understand lithium will take as much as it can and deliver as much as it can and you have protection for the cables then it will be fine. If there is a fault and the lithium takes all the charge from the starter battery and you can’t start it then you have a problem. Will have to wait for some solar.
Hi -
I’m planning a very similar install in a 1979 Volkswagen bus and I’m looking for component recommendations as well as advice regarding any “extra” electrical items that might be needed (fuses, switches, isolators).
I’ve attached a diagram for my proposed install with the main difference being elimination in my setup of solar (MPPT) and my currently planned use of an isolated Orion (OP used non-isolated).
At the moment, I’m not planning any additional fuses, switches, etc in an effort to conserve space and keep the overall setup very simple.
Other than the existing VW systems (alternator, starter, basic starter battery), I’m planning a single Lithium 100ah house battery together with the Orion Smart 12-12-18 isolated and the IP22 Blue Charger 12-15.
Main question - will these components work together? Goal is to allow the 55amp alternator to charge both batteries when driving while also being able to plug the bus into shore power to charge both batteries when parked.
Secondary question - is this setup too simple? Ie. Do I need to plan fuses or isolators somewhere to prevent bad things from happening? 
Help very much appreciated!
A 50amp wiring kit will have everything you need. You can buy 2 of those. If you use Anderson connections on the Orion you can reverse the connection and charge from the lithium battery to the starter in an emergency. I would get the 30amp charger because the Orion takes just over 20amps on the input to output 18amps. You can adjust the AC charger to the current you find works for you. Hope that helps.