Her magic ![]()
Guys, what Physical Switch are you referring to on the front of the Inverter/Chargers? I have a pair of MPII 24/5000/120-95 @ 120VAC and I don’t see any physical switches on the front. I have them in parallel 180 degree’s out of phase. They take 240VAC in 120AC to each and output 120AC each out of phase. Recall from my electrical panel picture above I have Manual Bypass which takes 240VAC @ 30amps and feeds it to the Inverter Distribution Panel bypassing the Inverter. We did have a situation once while the boat was parked and we left our inverter on by default, boat lost shore power fridge/freezer continued to run draining or old AGM batteries till dead. Came back to boat month later to gosh awful smell of rotting food. SO now we typically use Inverter Bypass and have no need to set Inverter to Charge only. I have alerting that sends me an email when we loose shore power BUT in that situation there was no WiFi at the dock so the message couldn’t get out to me.
My MPII’s with no physical switches that I see, unless there are membrane switches next to the LED’s that I don’t recognize:
Back to Bart’s original comment; I totally agree it’s good to recognize the available options and program/design a Flow to account for all possible usecases. My preference is to default to the Inverter/Charger always being ON and than managing AC power in via manual breaker/switch selection as well logic from the Flow based on SOC to Ignore AC. I like that I can disable this Flow by disabling the Autostart of the generator and then just selecting Manual Start to turn on AC/shore/Generator power indefinitely. I wish it was more easily named to not be Generator since it’s not actually starting the Generator but my impression IF I were to switch to Bart’s Flow logic the switch labels can be custom to anything I want them to say. I’m gonna run with this for an up coming trip and hold off on switching to Bart’s Flow until I have more experience with what I have working now.
FWIW as a boater I think there is huge value in this logic and what I have accomplished for my system that I think other boaters are going to want. It was about one year ago that I ditched our 1600lbs of AGM batteries (1300Ahr) and switched to four 25.6/300Ah NG LiPoe4 Batteries (1200Ahr) at 430lbs. I swapped out our old inverter/chargers for the MPII’s, added 1KW of Solar Panels and all the other required options Lynx BMS NG, Smart Solar MPPT, Battery Protects, Solid Switch 104’s. This Victron Gear is AWESOME and has been performing great! I have been telling all of my boater friends to make the switch to LiPoe4 and specifically Victron. For success don’t wing it and just drop stuff in, you have to design from the start and if you can’t do it yourself pay someone for a design/sanity check. My design was done by myself with the help of an EXCELLENT Victron Sales Rep. The Sales Rep had a draftsman who is experienced in Victron components and is actually a boater himself. Having the drawings, complete inventory of parts, and sanity check by my Sales Rep took about 3 months and I did all the install myself over another 2 months. Failure to plan is planning for failure! I see so many disgruntled posts by users trying to wing it and get help that didn’t follow this mantra IMO…I like the Forum concept of give and take so I’m happy to share my config and contacts if it will help someone!
Scott in Sunny FL
OK fair I forgot about that switch on the bottom…have not touched it since the completion of my install and initial power on. As I described our usecase it’s gonna be full on forever.

