I've got a 4S Li-Ion battery bank that I want to charge from the starter battery/alternator. I need the Orion-Tr to output at least 16.4V for an optimal charge.
The Orion-Tr spec (and print on the unit itself) says output voltage 10-15V. However, when I use the Orion-Tr in the VictronConnect demo library, it will happily let me set the absorption voltage to 16.4V. Can anyone confirm what the max voltage output of the Orion-Tr really is? I'm about to order a unit, but thought I'd check in here first. Thanks!
I have a 5kva Multiplus connected to a 48v 300Ah lead acid battery bank. There is a roughly 0.8v drop between what battery voltage the inverter sees as displayed on VeConfigure and actual battery voltage. E.g Multi reads 49v whereas battery reads 49.8v when measured with a multimeter at battery and inverter terminals.
I have connected the Voltage sense cables to the appropriate terminals but these seem to have no effect on the Multiplus' voltage readings. I even restarted the Multiplus a few times and no improvement in its voltage readings (still off)
The voltage sense terminals that fit into the Multiplus have ferrules about half inch long crimped on them - I am beginning to think I need longer ferrules?
There is no GX device or BMV in this config as it is a simple backup system. I need a reliable means to read the correct voltage as the low battery cutoff and absorb and float setpoints absolutely need an accurate reading.
I just can't figure this out and it's driving me nuts. There are similar posts but never a working solution?
I have two 6v Golf Cart batteries connected in series. 230 Ah. System settings and wiring below.
Victron reports 10.4 amps used, and says that's 97.2% of 230 amps. (is that not 95.4%?)
But when you take their 97.2% of 230, that SHOULD BE 6.44 Amps used?
HOW DOES THAT WORK?! What am I missing here?
What I've done:
- Fully charged the batteries to 100%.
- I then let them let sit for 2 days to stabilize voltages (Completely disconnected all power leads - only thing connected was the BMV 712 - just the little power wire)
- Battery read 12.8v after the two days (The little BMV power wire was still connected)
- I did as the manual states to set zero current:
A zero current calibration is (almost) never needed. Only perform this procedure in case the battery monitor shows a current while you are absolutely sure that there is no actual current flowing. The only way to be sure of this, is to physically disconnect all wires and cables connected to the side of the shunt. Do this by unscrewing the shunt bolt and remove all cables and wires form that side of the shunt. The alternative, which is switching off loads or chargers, is NOT accurate enough as it does not eliminate small standby currents.
- To me, it should not matter the state of the battery when you set Zero Current?
(There is NO current flowing as the battery is disconnected)
Can someone explain it like I'm 5? LOL
So far everything else seems to work like it should, but I'm still confused as to what my battery state really is?
Battery reports full when I believe it to be from the converter (and also the MPPT charger on the solar reports the battery to be full as well)
At the VERY LEAST, what is more accurate, the percentage, the amps used or the voltage?
(So far, I've been following Amps and watching the Voltage reading and trying to make an educated guess that way) Voltage will read 12.1v when the percent still reads in the low 70's? Is that not empty? So confused :(
To me the percentage is so far out of wack that it make ZERO sense. This battery monitor DOES NOT help me monitor my batteries :(
The battery is manufactured by East Penn MFG also called (DEKA) its a GC15.
Two batteries connected in series will be 230Ah. (130Ah useable)
- Reserve Capacity at 25A is 448 Minutes
- RC at 75A is 120 minutes
- The Peukert’s coefficient for most use cases for this battery is 1.24
What is the recommended Bulk, Absorb, Float, Equalize and maintainer parameters?
- Bulk charge to 2.35 volts per cell and hold for Absorption. (14.1v for two in series)
- Float charge at 2.25 volts per cell. (13.5v for two in series)
- To compensate for battery temperature not at 20°C:
- subtract 0.005 V/cell for each 1°C above 20°C;
- add 0.005 V/cell for each 1°C under 20°C.
- An Equalization charge can be done at 15.5 volts.
Max bulk charging current is <=30A per 100 Ah (C20). So for this 230 Ah battery, that's 69 amps. (If charging a pair in series, it's still 69 amps.)
System runs fine during the day when solar panels are getting sun. Voltage maintained at around 23.2 volts when under load running fridge and 12K mini split. When the sun goes down the system voltage drops and system shuts off.
Can't figure out what I may be missing in system settings.
8 x 400 watt solar panels, wired in series and parallel.
2 x Victron SmartSolar MPPT Tr 150v / 60 amp
Victron Energy Lynx Distrbutor
Victron Multiplus 3000VA 24-Volt
6 x 100 amp hour Battleborn batteries wired to 24 Volt configuration
I have a BMV-712 connect to 2xVictron Super Cycle batteries, today my monitor started reporting an incorrect battery voltage of 0.02 or 0.03V. This is on both the device itself and the android app (via bluetooth), nothing has changed in my system except for taking a firmware update on the app.
I've checked the voltage with a meter and its reading 13.08 from the shunt to my fuse where the power supply for the BMV is located. I also unscrewed the inline fuse and looks to be intact, just to be sure i checked the voltage from the end of the fuse to the shunt and again was 13.08V so seems to definitely be a software / device issue? I've done a number of factory resets without any joy always just displays the .02V after the reset.
Kind of out of ideas here and would welcome suggestions.
Is it possible that a VE Direct LoRaWAN measures the voltage from it's supply? If yes: does it transmit this voltage to the portal? This would allow to use it for remote monitoring the voltage without any other VE.direct capable device.
I want to know what voltage relates to what state of charge for a Victron Super Cycle AGM battery, as I think it differs from a standard AGM battery. If anyone knows the voltage for state of charge in 10% increments from 0% to 100% it would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
Can someone shed some light on the intended functional purpose of the Voltage Sense wires on a Multi/Quattro?
Are you using it? If so, how/why?
The manual says loosely that it's "to make up for voltage losses across the wires".
With the volt sense wires connected or not connected, under minimal load or loads in excess of 100A, I've never seen any change in the reported voltage by the system.
This was true even before my installation of a BMV (with the lithium batts) and still so now, since SOC and voltage readings (I assume) are now coming exclusively from the BMV.
The voltage reported (by the BMV) is within .01 V of the voltage reported by the BMS on the batteries with minimal load, and within the expected 2-3% difference under heavy loads.
I'm using 2/0 (70ish mm cross section) wires and runs are around 10-13 ft to the batteries. The BMV is 5-7 ft to the shunt. 24V lithium system.
The lead-acid system prior was considerably sloppier, although still using 2/0 cable, and I still recall no differences.
I hear everywhere that synchronized multiple mppts are considerably better than a single big mppt in configuration that regularly get partial shading (sailboat for example).
Could anyone give their real life experience and feedback on the improvement it brings?
I am also interested in the theory behind that statement. I understand the idea is a lower voltage on one panel brings the voltage of all other panels in parallel down, but the diodes should bypass the shaded cells and avoid loosing voltage no?
Any advice welcome, thanks!!
Not 100% sue that anything is wrong as such.. but haven noticed since turning my engel fridge off from mains (as its main priority and on an inverted socket) so it is on DC only, that the charge voltage is fairly unsteady in 'float' mode.
Set up is 326ah CALB celled (2p4s) battery - Daly Smart BMS - 250a Raspberry pi 3b+ running Venus OS 2.70~15 - BMV700 connected via victron VE Direct to USB cable, then the multiplus.
Set up is on shore power bulk to 14.2, absorption for as short as possible,. float at 13.5. DVCC Shared Voltage sense is ON
The thing I have noticed is that when the fridge kicks in, the voltage drops eventually 0.1v (over a few minutes) to 13.4v, the multiplus then wakes up and starts adding current, eventually overshooting 13.5v to 13.65, then dropping down slowly again.. and the process continues.
Prior to having the fridge on DC i had a steady draw of about 2.4amps, it took a while to settle but the charge voltage eventually settled at 13.5 and held...
I'm assuming that this is maybe by design... i just dont like the overshoot too much, am I missing a setting somewhere that tells the MP when to kick in (ie 0.1v below and stop 0.1v above?)
*****System: Off Grid
3 x Victron Quattro 10kva
1 x Fronius 10kW Symo - 1 x 20kW Symo
18 x Pylontech US 3000
2 x Skylla 48v 50ah AC chargers ( Supplement charge for batteries )
84 x 410w JA Solar Mono half cell
System was installed on new build home. We experienced dipping in the lights. The electrician has done a logger test last week and the results are a bit concerning. Lowest dip recorded was 180v ( 10 - 60 milliseconds), and it regularly dips below 10%, 207v.
Highest swell recorded 257v (10 - 60 milliseconds )
Attached logger data and Victron data ( 1 min intervals )
L1 (Victron) - Phase B (Logger Test)
L2 - Phase C
L3 - Phase A
The underfloor heating runs on Phase C (L2). It switched off on Tuesday morning and technicians are coming in to have a look.
My question is, has anybody experienced a similar situation? Is there a way to minimize the shifting?
* Results of second test. First 36hrs main DB incoming 3 phase line from Off grid system. Last 36hrs directly on Victron output and termination boxes. (This was done to check that data corresponds and we have no other electrical problem in-between DB and Inverters.)
Results are still the same.
*The underfloor heating has been fixed. Unrelated issue
* We have done a firmware Quattro's and N-E bond in the termination boxes. ( This was done before new logger test was done)
* Lights are more stable. Flickering only happens when sun is going down, load increases and the shift happens between Fronius not being able to supply sufficient power and the batteries taking over (100% SOC) I will follow up with Fronius to see if there is a fix for this. ( I have upgraded the Fronius to latest software)
* My question is: The fluctuations are very short in duration 20 - 40 milliseconds. On average we remain on 230V. I do understand being fully of grid will make the voltages fluctuate. Is this in normal parameters? Is there a way to minimize it? Will it have a negative long-term effect on household appliances?
Trying to figure out if there is still some life left in my batteries. Not sure how long they were in use. I am complete newbie in this topic and need some expert advice, before I decide to buy new batteries.
I have 2 VICTRON 10-110 AGM batteries for house bank on a boat I just bought. They are charged with QUICK SBC 700 NRG 60A charger that has AGM charging profile. When connected to shore power it shows 13.4 V.
What voltage should I expect to see on fully charged VICTRON 12-110 AGM battery after it is finished charging and disconnected from shore power?
Few minutes after it is disconnected it shows 12.8V. Is that correct? I think I read somewhere that they should show 13.4 when fully charged. They do not seem to last too long (max 2 days when we really try to use only what is needed - although theses days there are always phones/tablets/bluetooth speakers charging)
I'm quite new to Victron MPPT controllers having used other brands for about 9 years. Nowhere on any of the various data streams - Remote Console, Dashboard or VRM can I see Target voltage ie what voltage the controller is trying to maintain allowing for charge state and temp compensation. The controllers are connected VE CAN & VE Direct cables to a Venus GX. Has this information been ommitted for a reason I see this as paramount feedback to tell the overall situation at a glance just from knowing the target voltage...
(2) MPPT 150/70
(1) Cerbo GX
(2) Trace 2500w Inverters
Boon-docking now for day #4 with no issues - 100% solar and lithium. Each day has had consistent daylight with full charge by EOD with lowest charge only reaching 60% before mid-morning when the sun begins to hit the solar panels again.
However, last night (day 5) the voltage reader has dropped to 9.47V - but the charge on the reader still says 73% charged?
What am I missing? How do I get back above 12V?
I am having an issue with the Autotransformer output voltages - 114V on L1 and 120V on L2 (with no load)
120V current is supplied by a Quattro 48V / 10000 / 140-100/100 to the 100A Autotransformer. I'm using the AT to provide a split-phase 120/240v supply to the 50A main break panel in my RV
I have wired the AT connections according to the diagram #3 shown on the system schematics page from the Victron website: (https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/AT-3-split-phase-120V-to-120-240V-with-Quattro-120V.pdf)
The Ground Relay in the Quattro is set to ON and is correctly grounding the Neutral to earth.
Here are the voltages I read at the terminals:
The problem I have with this is that the voltage on L1 decreases a lot with load, and when occurs equipment will pull more current to compensate for the lower voltage.
Here is a pic of my RV control panel, showing the disparity in voltage between L1 and L2. Even though there are 2 air conditioners on Line2 it has only dropped 2 volts - Line1 dropped from 114v to 105v. This can't be good.
Questions: 1) - Is this method of wiring correct, and 2) what is causing the voltage discrepancy?
Aug-31: Editing this in an attempt to make the question visible again. I'm thinking of sending this AutoTransformer back to Victron as it is not performing to expectations. I have seen voltages as low as 96 volts on L1, at which point my UPS shuts down my computer, and various other circuits shut down. Not happy...
I'd appreciate a comment from anyone who has had experience with an AutoTransformer.
Hello. Is my brand new 100a autotransformer defective?! It is putting out 120v and 114v on each leg.
Can I fix this? What do I do?
I have tried clearing the alarm by going to the GCCX clicking Menu. Selecting notifications. Arrowing down to the alarm. Pressing the space button and pressing the center button on the CCGX.
I have also restarted the GCCX.
According to the VRM logs voltage only went to 14.22, so not sure why that alarmed. Regardless I cannot seem to clear it. Any ideas?
I'm building a portable-ish system with a MultiPlus 24/3000. The main switch on the MultiPlus will not be easily accessible. I'll have the positive line run from the battery thru a disconnect switch on its way to the MultiPlus. The negative directly from battery to MultiPlus. The disconnect switch will be in the OFF position for weeks at a time.
I'm going to hook up a separate smaller cable to the voltage sense terminals on the MultiPlus. I am planning on hooking the voltage sense cable directly to the battery terminals (not the disconnect switch) but I want to know if it is ok to leave the disconnect off while the voltage sense cable is connected.
Is there a problem with this? Is there a little current flowing on the voltage sense cable even with the disconnect switch OFF? If so, how much?
[image]My voltage on Cerbo GX and VictronConnect is correct but the percentage is incorrect. The SmartShunt is setup to be the provider for the voltage. My shunt is hooked up properly via battery minus/load minus but I do have the power cable from the shunt hooked up to a small fuse block instead of the batteries directly. Could that cause the drift? I’ve also never done a Zero Calibration.
Batteries are 500AH LifePo4 Battleborn Batteries
One thing that is interesting is that if I reboot the system by turning off and on the master disconnect switch, the percentage will correct itself.
Anyone ever deal with this percentage drift?
Hi I wondered if some one could help we are using the victron 3600 to prove our equipment cabinets can work using IT mode. our input voltage into the transformer is 240V and the output is 256V?!?! I was under the impression it was 1:1 ratio so input=output. It is causing our ATS (automatic transfer switch) to persistently switch between A and B feed due o over voltage protection. Can anyone explain why we are having this issue
Hi I'm getting hIgh Voltage warnings on the CCGX. I understand the cells need to internally balance as it's a new system. They are, slowly, day by day.
My issue is that I have set the DVCC to 53.2V to mitigate the alarms and to allow the cells to balance but it's not stoping the alarm!.
The alarms currently trigger just above 52V.
I am relatively new to campervan setups, and I do not have a background in 12v electrics.
I have had a Victron Smart Solar 20A 100V MPPT installed in my campervan together with a new leisure battery, which I am really pleased with on first inspection.
There are a number of options in the Victron Connect app to allow configuration of the Smart Solar 20A 100V MPPT, here are the settings I am talking about.
It looks like most of the settings (Charge Voltages etc.) are set by either selecting a Battery Preset (see options below), or by selecting "expert mode" and specifying your own numbers for the Charge Voltages. The "factory default" seems to be the Gel Victron Deep Discharge option.
The other Battery Preset options available are:
It says in the manual to ensure the settings match your specific leisure battery, and this is where I am struggling - I cannot seem to locate the information needed. The leisure battery installed is a 12V 110AH Xtreme AGM Leisure Battery (XR1750) NCC Class A.
So, my question are:
A final (less important question) also
My Multiplus, when charging batteries, is charging them at a higher V than in the settings.
For example - if I set the Multiplus to charge in Absorptions 14.6v and float at 13.8v - the BMV712 is showing charging about 0.2v higher - always. When in absorption it is charging at 14.8v and in float it is charging at 14.0v.
Any thoughts on why this is happening ?
I have multipluss 12/3000 connected to 2 x 230 Ah victron super cycle in parallel.
System is 3 weeks old. I suddenly noticed a voltage drop 2 weeks ago when someone was testing a vacuümcleaner on inverter. "Only" around 80 amps were drawn for few minutes and the voltage droppen until 11,89 Volts under load. Multipmus gave a short warning by red led status
Batteries were fully charged.
Totday again, batteries fully charged, a small test with watercooker and voltage droppen until 12,2 while taken 109 amps.
Is this normal? Batteries recover immediately after load stops.
Thanks in advance.
Please check date on image.
I think I made an expensive mistake
What is the permissible volt drop on the DC side.
In my scenario I have 2 x Multiplus 2 48/5000 in parallel
Our wiring code says that a volt drop (AC) should not exceed 5%
I see that most PV calculators do not recommend more that 3% on DC
Now my dilemma: I am using Two Multiplus 48/5000 in parallel and connected to a common DC bus bar to five Pylontec US5000 batteries
If I use the Victron toolkit calculator @ say max 166A on the bus bar (8000/48) then I can use a 16mm2 DC cable. The DC cable to the inverters from the busbar is 1.7m long as this is under the 3% (closer to 1%)
The Victron rule of thumb (in wiring unlimited) says current/3 which means I should use 50mm2. The example is based on 0.26% volt drop. The Victron table also suggests at 50mm2
Now what? Does this imply that volt drop should not exceed 0.26%?
Although I have Already wired this system, does this imply that I have made an expensive mistake and that I should start again.
Another community member also suggested in his post that due to the size of the battery bank (I am using five x Pylontech US5000) that I should take a second parallel cable from the last battery back to the battery Isolator (KETO 160A). This would have been, as he suggested, is to ensure that the batteries charge at the same rate. Would the BMS not take care of this? OR, is this due to the limitation of the actual current carrying capacity of the Pylontech battery cable links.
Then, wiring unlimited also recommends that all the DC cables should he the same size, make and length - No problem with that. I am using Two Smartsolar 250/85 and again I determined that the safe DC cable size, also 1.7m long is 16mm2. I also wired as such. Now what to do? Can these remain at 16mm2 or must they increase to 25mm2 / 35mm2 or also 50mm2.
Taking this further, if then indeed the inverter DC cable must be 50mm2, do I then use a 95mm2 from the bus bar to the battery.
It is stated that the negative should not be fused in a parallel system. Is this BEFORE or AFTER the bus bar, or not at all? I am using a KETO 160A fused battery disconnector.
Due to the lateness of this discovery - I would appreciate some expert advice as soon as possible. I think my whole problem stemmed from my understanding of permissible volt drop
Hello, i have a EasySolar 24/3000/70-50 wich basically has a multiplus inside. I use it with a lifepo4 battery. I never run it so low for the inverter to trigger a disconnect, but i'm curious to know what is the default battery low voltage disconnect on the multiplus 24/3000, does anyone know?
Thank you :)
This might be quite elementary to solve, however I keep getting high voltage alarms from the Pylontech battery at times of high solar yield.
What can be done to solve the problem. The alarms tend to show up at voltages below the recommended charge voltage settings, ie max voltage for absorption charging 53.2V and Float 53V in accordance with the manual.
I have downloaded logs for some of the alarm events, these can be found at the following link.
Where could the alarm be triggered and why, and how could the setup/settings be changed to avoid or reduce the alarm event. At present it is a once a week occurrence.
I am in the middle of setting up my first pieces of Victron gear with my lifepo4 100ah 12v battery.
I love the features and the quality construction but I do have a question.
I am seeing different voltages across my victron gear and readings from a multimeter.
i have taken multimeter readings from various areas. The battery terminals, from the terminal and the shunt and from the mppt terminals. All readings are 13.28v
I have seen comments that there could be an incorrect fuse in the BMV712, but I’m also wondering what could cause this?
I have no long runs of wire and I have checked the crimping on my connectors.
My primary concern is the the mppt charger will stop charging too soon.
Thanks in advance for your help.
I see on the data sheet for the multiplus 24v 3000w inverter/charger that in the "inverter" section it list output as 120VAC +/- 2% and under the "charger" section, the input is 94-140VAC. Does that output apply to inverted loads only, or does it act as an autotransformer and convert (for example) 100VAC shore/gen power up to 120VAC as well? I'm trying to figure out if I should install a separate autotransformer in the RV to account for some RV parks voltage dropping below 110v during periods of high demand. Thanks in advance.
Cerbo recording high input voltages.
Input voltage, MOST of the time, is just below the uk high limit.
When connecting an isolation transformer the input voltage increases a further 7v which triggers high voltage alarm (exceeds the uk limit 253v) at least twice a day.
A week ago, with the isolation transformer connected the input voltage exceeded 270v.
1... With the Victron Inverter upper input limit of 265v, will it shut above that voltage or will it cause damage?
2... The isolation transformer, is not a Victron product. Does the Victron isolation transformer also increase the grid voltage slightly?