I'm testing my new Multiplus 12 | 3000 | 120 | 50 inverter and noticed it shuts off and kicks back on after a few seconds. It does this quite frequently. Here are the conditions:

Inverter is connected to 600AH lithium batteris and in inverter mode. the load is about 1700W. The battery monitor shows battery voltage is 13.2V and the current is 128A. Before the inverter shuts off, there was no low battery indicator on and no other warning LED was flicking or on.

Is there a log somewhere I can retrieve from the unit? I have the MK3-USB cable and am able to use the VEConfigure.

The Venus has a 5VDC Output - Does the MultiPlus II GX have anything similar? I cannot see but I am hoping I've missed something.

My eyes nearly popped out of my head.

I was looking for solutions to connecting more than one MPPT to a MultiPlus II GX and thought, "Could I use a VE.Can port with a VE.Direct to VE.Can adapter?".

Sure enough, there is such a thing "VE.Direct to VE.Can interface" (ASS030520410) but it is about the same price as the MPPT I want to connect about 300EUR.

Now, I have since learned that you cannot use VE.Can on the MultiPlus II GX for MPPTs but I am still interested in why the VE.Direct to VE.Can interface is so expensive?

We have a sailboat with 4 * 200 ah 12v - packs of 2 batteries for 24 V.

Everything is Victron - Quattro 8000 BMS VE and monitor etc.

The batteries made the BMS kick in and the Quattro showed (low battery) - and wound not charge.

We called in for help which resulted in loosing the setup and that we had to have the communications card on the Quattro changed and now the blue panel also.. We can no longer access the menus in the panel and we don't have access to the Quattro.

As soon as we use the hydraulics an alarm goes off and we can't see how much power is left on the 2 working batteries ? So we are running the Panda generator all the time.

BUT the Quattro will now only run on 1 pack of 2 batteries. When we connect the other pack the red light comes on on the BMS. With a Victron smart 25 amp 12v charger we measure 14.4 v separately on the 1 pack of batteries that results in a red led and aprox. 13.7 v on the other pair.

What could be wrong? The batteries are from 2016 LiFePO4 . Can a battery be reset so the BMS does not create a red led?

Thank you Tor

Hey there, since the dc inverter draws power directly from the battery (not through the charge controller) is the battery protect the way to go so that the battery is not completely drained? i use a 1000W inverter (~83 Amps draw), with 2000W peak consumption, so i suppose the 100A model would be suitable. i am not talking about a starter battery on a vehicle but an off-grid system. cheers

Brand new 2 battery Victron solar system used to run Oloid 400. Started right up and ran for 2days and then just quit- red light comes on 10R-05-4003 Controller. Ran diagnostics and indication is either overcharge or BMS- is not overcharge as each cell is 3.35. Is there a reset, a fuse, or do I need to replace the controller or is it something else

I have a victron 100/30 regulator. My two roof panels supply 48v into the regulator.

I want to add in portable panels when the roof panels are in the shade, but these will be 24v input into the same regulator.

Any foreseeable issues with this setup?

Hello,

Looking to do the following on a cheap budget for a farm bound friend who is currently burning dinosaurs (geny) at a rate that makes me cringe.

120-130A/hr dc usage at 12V a day

so he likes 12v because he understands it so being a remote farm i want to keep it 12v nominal at the batts.

I can get 175w victron 12v panels locally too was going to wire 3 in parallel down to a dc breaker then to solar regulator. (will make leads esy to follow for him and ill use colour shrink on pv cables so he can easily identify the pos/neg of each panel should he need to remove one as result of damage.

so i was going for

3 x 175 victron mono panels Reference No. SPM041751200

bluesolar PWM yes PWM (remember cheap) sub tropical location too has display and charge his phone via usb thus (Saving $200 over the MPPT this covered the 3rd panel) I figured 525watts via PWM would outperform 350watts via MPPT.

800w victron inverter

360 a/h battery bank

12/30 victron charger

I know its only 3 days carry over only but he must run a stock pump for a few hrs every few days so ive added a victron 12/30 battery charger so when hes burning dinosaurs he can top up bank if required .

so thats back ground for you all

now to my question ... the PWM says 36 cell panels are best used but the 12v victron panels are 72 cell even though they are 12 v ??? are these still suitable ??

Am i silly to use the PWM ..after reading the white paper and everything else I could find it seems that 12v nominal systems are the go right up the 30A limit which will be right on for him. and as said the $200 saved has paid for the additional 175 watts.

cable runs all calculated for less than 3% voltage loss more like 1-1.5% as everything is pretty close together.

all fusing and breakers are dc rated so all covered on the saftey front.

Just that lingering 36 v 72 cell 12v panel question.

I could buy 2nd hand 24v pv panels and the MPPT but after many hre drive to set this up remote Id rather give him good new gear from victron and ensure I he has no issues.

thoughts

Future expansion is not and going to happen .... and 240v ac usage will always be kept to bare minium hence the smaller inverter.

Thanks for reading

Hallo

Have this setup: victron mppt 75/15 + blu. and 3 x 80 EXIDE ER350 DUAL battery. But can not find data sheet on these batteries. These are wet lead batteries. Can you help with settings? Thank you.

Good day all,

I would like to inquire the required AC Out 1 protection needed to protect a grid connected Victron 5kVA unit.

Thanks

Hi,

I have following configuration:

3 Victron quattro 48/10000/140 (3 phase system)

2 BYD Box 13.8

1 SMA Sunny Tripower STP 8000TL-20 (existing)

2 SMA Sunny Tripower STP 10000Tl-20 (new)

It is a Off Grid System with a generator for emergency situations.

- Victron with BYD works, no problem (victron provide a manual for that)

- SMA STP 8000 works with victron, no problem (was a existing installation)

Question:

Which parameter i have to program at the two SMA STP10000 that they stop working when the battery is full ?

Thanks in advance for every input !

BR Daniel

Hi all, does any body know if Victron have made stencils for Visio for their Victron Products?

Or if any body else made it and made it free to use.

It makes lite so much easier when making my schematics.

//TAB

Hi,

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I have a few Victron 12/1200/50 Multiplus Compact units, I have an issue with low voltage output on one of them.

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The unit in the attached pics is connected to 4 Fullriver DC400-6 6v batteries, 2 lots of 2 in series, and we got a low battery voltage report come through.

We have been up and tested the unit and with the batteries connected or disconnected it is putting out 9vdc.

Is there any reason it may putting out the 9v? Is there anything we can check? I have been through the manual and cant find a solution and am thinking it may need to be replaced.

Regards,

Mitch Walker

Hi,

I have a client whose 10 kVA Quattro switch off due to overload when the AC loads were very low (about 400 watts) and his batteries were fully charged with solar power available. What could have possibly caused this? This happened immediately after the grid was switched off by utility provider in SA due to loadshedding.

Many thanks,

Aldre

Quattro 12/5000 stopped working

No LED on

Item now removed disconnected and connected several times

Ac and or dc inputs fine

Ve bus disconnected

Can not connect to mk2 or other ve bus items

No sign of heat or broken electronic, was basically only used as charger

Think warranty is over purchased 2015or16

Any ideas

I'm converting a Van to an office/camper.

I just finished planning my energy system (Or at least think so) and maybe someone here wants to have a look and comment on whether it makes sense? Or maybe give suggestions to improve it?

Energy requirements are between 500-1000Wh per day, depending on usage. And it's mostly used to power a fridge, a diesel heater, lights and some computer equipment. When the sun is shining or the batteries are well charged for other reasons I'm also thinking to do some light cooking which i think might add another 200-500Wh.

The target is to be able to cover about 4 days before needing to charge again, even with bad weather and no driving involved.

Elektrik_3.pdf

I have a simple solar setup with a MPPT controller and Battery Monitor.

I am running Renogy 200w solar panels and a renogy 200amp hour battery. I have a sea life fuse box that runs LED lights and a dometic CFX 95 fridge.

My solar system will be running efficiently and all of a sudden my victron controller will blow the internal fuse. The first time I thought was a fluke but it just happened again.

During these times I have not done anything to my solar configurations because everything is running fine.

Has this happened to anyone? Can my battery monitor be doing this? I got the battery monitor not that long ago and looking back, both times it’s been after battery monitor install. Not sure how this could cause it but hopefully someone has had the same issue.

Hi all,

In my caravan I currently have an option to switch of my 12 volt battery. I also have a Victron Phoenix 350/12 inverter which has remote on/off functionality. I would like to make use of my existing outlet to be able to switch the inverter on/off remotely from within hand reach, while currently one switch in the outlet is not used. Could I do the setup as in the picture? Thus combine the 12 volt and 5 volt (neutral) wire?

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Hope you can help.

Tim

The 1.2kW Multiplus example schematic, which is similar to my own setup, suggests RCD and MCB on input and output of AC; it seems logical that both sides are protected for situations where there is no RCD/MCB in the hookup point (?)

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/1.2KVA-12V-MultiPlus-230-Volt-system-example-with-Argo-Fet-and-MPPT.pdf

From reading the datasheets and guides, I was thinking of using a type A RCD on the input to the multiplus and type B for the outputs (loads inside campervan) because type B may give extra protection for inverter failure modes? type A are also cheaper so if they fit the requirements, jobs a carrot ;-)

https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/20526/type-b-residual-current-device.html

Any advice* on RCD/MCB selection would be appreciated.

* While I am asking for advice, I am responsible for my own actions and decisions WRT mains voltages; Im well aware of the dangers!

RCD for input:

Eaton 2P 25A RCD Switch, Trip Sensitivity 30mA Type A PXF-25/2/003-A

or,

Kopp 2P 25A Instantaneous RCD Switch, Trip Sensitivity 30mA 752.52801.2

RCD for inverter output:

Eaton 2P 25A Instantaneous RCD, Trip Sensitivity 30mA Type B PKNM-25/1N/B/003-A-MW

MCB for input and output:

Eaton xEffect MCB Mini Circuit Breaker 2P 10A 6kA Curve B #FAZ6-B10/2

or

Kopp MCB Mini Circuit Breaker 2P 10A 10kA Curve B 7210.2000.0

Setting figures/numbers please required for my bmv-712 & mppt smart controller 100/30 setup....complete novice. I have 2x 160w solar panels, 2x varta la95 agm batteries, bmv-712 & victron mppt smart controller 100/30..Thank you and wait in anticipation.

Hello,

I've got a Victron Blue Power Charger 12/15, the older model without bluetooth.

I have a 150Ah Victron battery as house battery for all equipment. I also got a 60Ah starter battery attached to my outboard. Between the two I installed a Victron Cyrix-ct 12/24V-120A.

Now when I am at the marina, can I use my charger to charge the batteries? Is it powerful enough for this set-up? Can I leave this charging all the time? I have got a remote power-switch installed so I could also just charge the day before when I want to take my boat out a day..

Hope to hear you soon,

Kindest regards, Marcel

Our Quattro is randomly going OFF repeatedly and when doe so, we can't get it back to life ourselves, only at his will and randomly starts working again.

Any ideas what can be the issue or how to ensure the unit is not faulty?

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My 100/50 controller has been working flawlessly. One day, it failed to charge, even though there was plenty of sun and my batteries needed it. The app indicated that the controller status was OFF and that the panel voltage was lower than the battery level, which didn't make sense. I removed the panel wires at the controller and saw that the panels were providing over 20 volts, and not the 12+ volts that the app indicated. I unplugged the panels and batteries from the controller, waited, then reconnected everything. The controller immediately started to work properly, charging my batteries, and worked fine for a couple of weeks...until today.

Today, the app indicated the earlier problem. My batteries were in the neighborhood of 12.50 volts, and the app indicated that the panels were only providing something like 12.47 volts, even though it was very sunny. I again disconnected the panel input wire right at the controller and saw that the panels were actually providing well over 20 volts. I again disconnected both the panel input and batteries from the controller, waited, and reconnected everything, however the controller still won't charge and the app is indicating that the panel voltage is again just under the battery voltage. Thoughts?

Hallo! Ich möchte gerne ein erweiterbares Setup für mein Auto haben. Als erstes würde ich eine 12/100Ah LiFePO4 Batterie anschaffen wollen. Ich müsste damit eine Kühlbox mit einem täglichen Verbrauch von 10 bis 40Ah pro Tag betreiben und zusätzlich meine Kameraakkus laden können. Als Stromquellen stehen zur Verfügung: Lichtmaschine vom Fahrzeug (ca. 40Ah), Landstrom über Kabeltrommel, und später als Erweiterung würde ich noch eine faltbare Solarzelle mit Laderegler hinzufügen. Auf der Abgabeseite brauche ist 12V auf verschiedenen Buchsen (Zigarettenanzünder/Anderson-Stecker/am besten auch ein USB-Lade-Ausgang) und 230V mit einer Stärke von ca. 300 bis 500W auf einer Schukodose oder Steckleiste. Welche Geräte brauche ich genau und wie müssen sie verkabelt werden. Es wäre schöne wenn ich so viel wie möglich die neuen Bluetooth-Smart Komponenten benutzen könnte, um die App auf dem iPhone nutzen zu können. Ich würde das ganze erstmal in eine Kiste bauen, so das es nicht immer im Fahrzeug angekabelt wäre. Brauche ich noch in irgendeiner Form eine Hauptsicherung, oder Einzelsicherungen. Gibt es ein Relais, was die Lichtmaschine zwischen Starterbatterie und Zusatzbatterie umschalten? Ich würde gerne die gesamte elektrische Verkabelung vom Auto so belassen und nur maximal den Pluspol an der Starterbatterie neu anklemmen. Besten Dank', Nico

Hi, I have just recently joined the community of sun loving energy seekers by getting a Victron EasySolar 48/5000 system with solar panels and pylontech batteries installed by a reputable installer.

The system is working extremely well but being based in South Africa we currently get a lot of power cuts and one thing I am noticing is that Earth Leakage circuit breaker is tripping whenever our main power is restored from the grid after a power cut. We have never had issues with Earth leakage problems before and I tested the system by manually switching power off to the inverter from the mains and then switching it back on (It trips the breaker) I did this a couple of times and it tripped nearly every single time.

I then bypassed the inverter setup via the changeover switch and simulated a "power failure" from the mains and switched it back on again and the Earth leakage did not trip. I did this about 4 times and not once did the earth leakage trip, so basically it means that for some reason the Victron is tripping the breaker

I have contacted my installer and electrician but I am still waiting for a response from them with regards to this. so I thought I would ask you friendly folks on this forum if anybody may know why the system is doing this?

Thank you

Hello - I have a system with 3 x 5KVA Multiplus which has been running great for couple of years - suddenly the Virtual switch is not working - any ideas? - I haven changed any settings - except after I found it not to work I changed a few values just to see if any change

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Many thanks for any help with this.

One quick feature that would be wicked useful at RV gatherings (for example) is to be able to specify either favorite or to be able to identify “my” products, so we don’t end up with lists like this...

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Dear all,

as I am new with all Victron components and quite francly electrics in general, I would really appreciate some opinions on my system plan. I have already put a lot of effort into this and read lots of articles and info but in the end every system is individual in itself and I am by far no expert yet.

I am planning to install all this into a bus that I am currently converting into an RV in Germany. I'm saying that to make clear that there is no current "house electricity" in the bus except cables throughout the walls to all appliances and outputs. For all 12V wiring I ran positive AND negative wires, so I guess the Orion DCDC converter might be an unneeded add-on in my case.

I don't really have many specific questions anymore. I was more hoping for someone with experience in Victron equipment to approve/or help improve my plan.

The only specific questions I am left with concerns the 4A trickle charge output of the Multiplus. Is it okay to just hook this up to my start battery positiv or do I need to be concerned about overcharging this battery once full?

I thank everyone who might get involved and look forward to any input you all might have.

Cheers,

Doran

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