Currently designing my install for a VW Transporter. I'm a novice when it comes to this, but love to learn as I go. The diagram is what I have so far, a work in progress.
My question at this point is. Do I need the VE Bus BMS when using the Multiplus or will the Smart Shunt be sufficient?
I don't need any external displays and I'm happy to control things via the phone app. Also, I'm aware I'll need a bigger battery for the 12/1200 Multiplus, and I haven't placed some of the fuses I'll need in the diagram yet.
Any input is greatly appreciated!
This is a new vehicle install. I have two lithium 148 Wh/I batteries running the MP12/2000. The AC output is thru a Paneltronics model 9972313 circuit breaker. When the inverter is turned on, relay H is activated. This causes the Paneltronics to trip, indicating incorrect connections.
I have checked my wiring multiple times, pulled the inverter, and ran the inverter off of house power, but relay H causes the Paneltronics to trip. I removed the Paneltronics and wired it to house power with no tripped lights.
Do I disable relay H? Why is relay H activating? Remove the Paneltronics from the system?
I’m at a loss as to what to do or check next.
Thanks for any help.
I hope this is not an inappropriate question
I'm designing a minimal off grid system for my 1989 LHD T25 1.6TD Westfalia campervan. I will have 2 x 75Ah SLA leisure batteries and 75Amp engine battery. I'll upgrade leisure batteries to LiFePO4 in a year or so. I'll have a single 160 Watt PV panel.
I'll use all Victron kit: MTTP solar controller, B2B charger, Lynx, Shunt and battery disconnect and 230v ac to 12v DC charger. I'll only need 500 Watt inverter to charge ebike, ideally from alternator while moving. I'll use Bluetooth to monitor.
Can you point me to a wiring diagram to help me choose exact model and calculate wiring sizes and fuses.
Any advice or suggestions very welcome.
Hey there, I am trying to figure out the best way to add a feature to a sprinter van where I can jumpstart my starting battery off of my lithium coach battery set. I was thinking of some sort of momentary switch on the dash that could be held to act as the jump start in the event of starter battery depletion - but only that.
I have been trying to work in a cyrix-lt-cr but it seems like it has a 30 second hold, and only engages at certain voltage levels?
The big concern I have is with the smart alternators and ensuring the ability to isolate the lithium batteries from it so I don't overcharge the lithium or burn out the diodes in the alternator. I currenty use a DC/DC buckboost charger to modulate the charging current to a safe level, but short of installing a second buckboost I'm not sure how best to configure a jump start feature safely
Currently I have two 24vdc Battleborn batteries and at 240 watts (two 50 watt in parallel and one 100 watt panel in series with the two parallel panels).
I am considering the following:
1 each. Victron BlueSolar MPPT 75/10 for Solar to engine run battery maintenance.
1 each. Victron BlueSolar MPPT 75/15 for 24vdc system battery.
1 each. Victron Orion-Tr 12/24-5A DC-DC Converter for 12vdc to 24vdc ignition on charging for system battery while vehicle is running.
1 each C24/1600 inverter.
Question; would the the BMV-712 Battery Monitor work on a 24vdc system... recommendations?
I have been exploring the web and seeing a lot of electrical diagrams for a Solar installation in a camper van, but non with the idea I had in mind, so I'm sharing my scheme.
My idea is to have 2 x 180W Solar panels serial conected to have 24v output connected to a MPPT solar controler to charge two 12v batteries (115Ah each, serial conected 24v total). I would like to be able to charge those batteries also with the van alternator, and someone in the forum suggested me to try the Orion DC to DC high power 12v to 24v 450W.
From there, control de batteries level witht he BMV 712 Smart, and some other components (see int the scheme) to have a 12v power line, an inverter to have 220v, etc.
I would appreciate a lot if anybody could comment on this, give me his/her opinion, It is my first electrical scheme, I know there might be some basic error (I'm not sure how to wire the Orion 12v to 24v to the alternator/starter battery and bank batteries), things to be corrected or improved.
All fuses and wire diameters still in process
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!
j'ai installé un smart solar 75/15 avec panneau 210W sur mon van VW T5. Mes consomateurs vont etre sur le load du controler mais j'aimerai raccorder uniquement le (+) des consommateurs sur le (+) load du controleur. Le (-) des consommateurs seraient raccordés à la masse du véhicule (moins de cables à passer et meilleur bilan éléctrique). Dans ce cas, est-ce correct si je raccord le (-) load du controleur sur le (-) batterie auxiliaire qui est raccordé à la masse. Sachant que la batterie auxiliaire est bien entendue raccordé aux (+) & (-) batterie du controleur.
merci pour votre aide :)
Hi everyone. I installed a smart solar 75/15 with 210W solar panel on my van with auxiliary battery. I would like to use mass connection of the véhicule to connect the (-) of my equipements. Is it ok to connect the (-) of my battery to the (- bat) and the (- load) on the smart solar. The equipements (fridge etc.) will be connected to + of the load on smartsolar and (-) of equipements to the vehicule mass.
Thanks for you advices :)
I want to install an Orion DC-DC Smart 12/12/30 in my van. It would be connected to the starter battery under the driver's seat all the way to the back of the van on the opposite side (passenger side). My question is, if I run the wiring up to the ceiling, to the back, and back down, the distance would be 10m one way (2m up, 4m to the back, 2m across, 2m down), if I run it through the floor the distance would be around 6m one way (4m to the back, 2m across). Keeping in mind derating factors (running continuously for more than 20m, being in a conduit or insulation), I've calculated I need a 0awg wire (50mm), which seems way too big. I don't know if my calculations are wrong? Victron recommends a minimum cable gauge of 16mm for a 5m distance (i'm guessing this would be one way?).
I'd appreciate any help!! Thank you
In regards to the VE - VW Van solar installation video:
Where exactly are the connections to the alternator done
Is the dc-dc really necessary? is there something simpler?
Wife and I are first time DIY campervan builders. We'll be living and working full-time in them.
Q re: choosing the right Victron Smart Solar MPPT controller.
Is my research and understanding below, correct?
We will be using 2x 180W HQST solar panels in series.
According to this resource here with Will Prowse, he recommends the SmartSolar MPPT 100/30 Charge Controller for a (max solar array of 440w).
However, according to the Victron Calculator -- it's recommending SmartSolar MPPT 100/20.
I'm converting a Van to an office/camper.
I just finished planning my energy system (Or at least think so) and maybe someone here wants to have a look and comment on whether it makes sense? Or maybe give suggestions to improve it?
Energy requirements are between 500-1000Wh per day, depending on usage. And it's mostly used to power a fridge, a diesel heater, lights and some computer equipment. When the sun is shining or the batteries are well charged for other reasons I'm also thinking to do some light cooking which i think might add another 200-500Wh.
The target is to be able to cover about 4 days before needing to charge again, even with bad weather and no driving involved.
I have a 500 watt solar panel with 25.78 V and 19.39 A.
1. Would I need a 100/50, 100/40 mppt or a 150/50 mppt?
I will have 2 x 12volt @ 200 AH each lithium batteries and then upgrade to a 3rd battery for a total of 7680WH.
2. Inverter Charger: I am thinking a 12/3000 as I have high items that draw high watts. Up to 1800, eg, hot water heater and induction cooktop.
Does the Multiplus include the charge controller and inverter charger in one? If so, can they be used in a van setup like mine?
3. I would also like to add a b2b charger but not sure which one of your products will be best for my situation. Any links to diagrams would be very helpful. Than you in advance. Deon
I am in the planning stages of converting a Van to a camper, this is a hobby/toy and I understand what I'm doing maybe over the top.
I have a small amount of solar (160W) on the roof permanently, connected to a Blue Solar 75/15 MPPT which charges my batteries (currently 60Ah but looking to double it). I have a BMV 702 and both of these are connected to a Venus GX which has a permanent connection to the internet via 4G and not my home WiFi. I am looking to purchase a new style 1200VA Multi to provide 230ac when out and about and would connect it to the Venus GX.
Currently, most mornings my solar tops my batteries back up from what was consumed during the night to run the GX and internet. This is usually done by 10am and then the solar is sat there doing nothing...
If I was to leave my van plugged into my house via the multi "AC in", what else would I need to feed back the excess solar for the rest of the day? My house consumes a base of about 265 watts so I doubt I'll ever export anything to the grid, but just reduce how much I'm pulling from the grid. And how easy would it be to disable this, say I went to a campsite where I had mains hookup and didn't want to export anything to their system (for safety reasons)?
Is it bad to cycle my batteries on a daily basis, I take about 6% out over night, would I better letting the multi keep them at 100% all the time? The van gets used about twice a month for about three days at a time and I will use between 20% and 50% of my battery capacity in the evenings/nights during this period.
here my idea for the electrification of the Van. First of all, do you see some error in the design? If yes, please correct me if I did something wrong. I have still some doubt:
I have 4 x 100 amp AGM batteries set to charge via a relay and our monitor is the BMV 712 smart. My house battery keeps draining and doesn't seem to charge at all. Is there something I need to program for the relay to charge the battery. What am I missing?
The wiring diagram in the quick install guide seems to imply that both the main and auxillary voltages are measured to common reference. In my van system, the house electrical systems is isolated from chassis. I run two wires to every load. This greatly reduces the chance of a short if a positive wire gets loose. It also keeps the house electrical 100% isolated from engine electrical (with it's super expensive engine computers).
If I connect as in the diagram, I will be connecting my house negative to vehicle chassis, which I don't want to do. Is it possible to us the BMV-712 to monitor an auxillary voltage without connecting the negative sides of the two circuits?
I live in France.
In my van, I have three solar panels (330W each), a Victron 200Ah Lifepo4, a Victron MPPT 150/100.
I have been relying only in solar to charge the Lifepo4. But I have never known a real winter.
This week, I am considering how to install my Phoenix inverter 12/375 and a Victron IP22 charger 30A.
Do I need to ground the inverter to the van chassis or to the minus of the Lifepo4? Actually, do I really need to ground the inverter as it will remain inside the van?
Regarding the Victron IP22 charger, this afternoon I have mounted a male CEE17 plug under the chassis of the vehicle and passed a cable from it inside the van. I will only connect the IP22 charger to this cable. Do I need to install a 30mA residual current device or breaker with overcurrent protection or another protective device for the IP22? Do I need to ground the vehicle chassis to the earth each time I want to use the IP22 charger?