I'm currently designing a system for my sail boat that I would like to run a Bauer Junior II dive compressor (2.2kW) from a Multiplus 24/5000. My research so far has indicated that people typically spec a 8-9kW generator to handle the start up current of the compressor. In my case, I won't have any generator.
My research has dug up anecdotal evidence of a 5kW inverter (unknown brand) starting a Junior II with a smart softstart from Hyper Engineering. I'm hoping that Victron inverters, given their capability to do 200% for 30 cycles should be able to start the compressor without issue, however I'd like to be a little more certain before dropping the $$$.
Does anyone know of this being done successfully?
Could the MP 5k still start it, even if the ambient temperatures are a bit higher (40ºC)?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
@Botnic How is yours going?
Another question. I see often guys post a picture which is obviously software generated of the layout of their system. I had a look around the software but could not find such a picture? Where does one get it?
Having had Victron components in may last system, We went pretty much all Victron in the new system. I am just looking for some insight as to if I am missing anything. This has all gone in to our 2021 Grand Design 2800BH, that replaced the 2018 that was destroyed in a rollover last summer. I have purchased;
- 12V Multiplus 3000
-Victron Lynx Distributor
-Victron SmartSolar MPPT 150/100 (for the 4 275W31V panels)
-Victron Color Control GX
-Victron SmartShunt 500A/50mV
-Victron ASS000100000, temperature sensor (which as I understand works with the Smartshunt)
-To be paired with a Lithium 320Ah 12V
So aside from the 2 marine style kill switches and fuses, Am I missing things, such as the VE.Direct cable? I was lead to understand I could control things from CCGX. An further insight would help.
Sorry if this is too open ended for this forum.
Looking for help designing a new victron system for a boat.
4200 wats of Solar
(2) 30amp dock lines from shore power.
Lithium-ion Batteries (Most cost effective reliable manufacture recommendation welcome)
Expect global travel. Would like to consider a power converter to convert what ever shore power is available (120 50/60, 220 50/60) to standard 12v marine system. Would of course need a charging system. I have seen several different displays out there for a system like this. Any recommendation for that is appreciated as well.
I am still learning so any resource or suggested design is welcome and greatly appreciated.
[image]just finished to update the firmware for 3 units Multiplus 5 kW, including assistants by the company who sell entire system:
- 3 x Multiplus 5 kW
- 1 X Fronius Symo 10,3 kW
- Color GX
- 2 x BYD Pro 10 kW each
- Bmw 700
- 36 solar panel, each 300 w/peak
- ESS three phase system, AC coupling
during update, activities was going well, but after it was finished, we clear observe some discrepancy between energy in AC out and energy from DC part, as in the attached pictures.
please note that there is an measurement independent from Victron system.
I would very much appreciate
Salut les gens
Je suis de retour et en français cette fois, plus simple pour moi aussi !
J'ai apporté des modifications quant à la première conception postée sur forum anglais, y compris avec le matériel existant.
L'équipement existant, encadré en vert en bas à droite, est physiquement situé à l'intérieur du véhicule. Les lignes vertes partent de l'EBL119. L'EBL119 est une unité électrique d'origine et intégrée dans le véhicule. Elle est utilisée pour la distribution du courant 12V / 220V et pour la gestion d'une seule batterie de service cabine AGM ainsi que d'une batterie de démarrage. L'EBL119 n'accepte que du 12V / 220V. Je n'ai pas encore déterminé la section des câbles, mais cela dépendra aussi des longueurs, à voir sur place.
Dans mon précédent post sur forum anglais, on m'avait conseillé de passer du 12V au 24V pour tout le système. Mais au vu de l'EBL119 présent et que je veux garder pour la gestion de tous les éléments internes, frigo, éclairage, alimentation externe... je vais rester au banc 12V.
Mon objectif :
- Retirer les éléments encadrés par une ligne verte en pointillés ainsi que les lignes en pointillés verts: batterie de service et ligne directe 220V vers la distribution des prises.
- Laisser l'EBL119 en place mais en installant un interrupteur à 3 positions pour la distribution du 220V dans les 5 prises existantes du véhicule: 0- pas d'entrée de courant, 1- alimentation 220V par le convertisseur, 2- alimentation 220V de la connexion externe au véhicule.
- Recharge des batteries Lithium avec un Buck-Boost grâce à l'alternateur / Euro-6.
Reste à résoudre:
- Recharge du banc de batteries Lithium 12V par l'alimentation externe 220V de l'EBL119 ou directement par une alimentation séparée à un chargeur? Je ne connais pas encore le meilleur. Peut être avec un convertisseur / chargeur au lieu du seul convertisseur.
Ou pluôt, rester en 12V avec les batteries, comme ça, pas de souci avec l'EBL119 ( comme sur mon design joint ). Ou quand même mettre tout en 24V ( selon les commentaires apportés depuis le forum anglais ).....Argggg...je ne sais plus par où commencer ou plutôt finir...
Cela vous parle-t-il et suis-je sur la bonne voie?
Merci beaucoup pour vos fabuleux commentaires sur ce projet.
Before installing my system in my motorhome, I wanted to submit to your experiences on this installation.
The green part is the support panel. The cables pass through the rounds to pass to the rear. This forms like a door with a hinge to facilitate assembly and to carry out subsequent additions of elements. The dimensions of all elements are exact dimensions in mm. The thin cables are in 2.5mm2 or VE.Direct or USB, the medium ones in 16mm2, the batteries in 35mm2. The battery fuses are 175 ANL. The red lines are + or Line or Phase, the black lines are - or Neutral.
No cables cross and the support panel is 80 cm x 60 cm, made of fireproof wood. Did I miss something in this assembly diagram?
I thank you in advance.
Hi - forum newbie here,
I'm looking at upgrading my off grid set up and welcome comments on the proposed works.
I'm keen to take advantage of the solar generation when my battery bank is charged (see No 7 below) and am still looking for solutions. This is one of the main things I'm struggling with so if anyone can help that'd be fantastic.
Having a way to monitor the whole system would also be great. Currently no comms leads run between any of the Victron kit. Maybe there's a monitoring solution built in to the multiplusII - which I haven't found time to fully research yet. So any pointers on how these devices should be talking to each other is also gratefully received.
And the other main thing I'm struggling to find is a resistive element solution that can be wall mounted for my ballast load - which would replace my elecky convection heaters (see No 6 below).
I've included a sketch of my existing and proposed layout to help with the context. The rational behind these changes is to upgrade some of the 9 year old components, to switch from a flooded lead acid to LiFEPO4 battery bank, add heating to the small outbuilding (approx 40 sq m) as part of the renovation works, optimise how things are configured and be able to monitoring the system.
Proposed Upgrade Info
- Upgrade inverter to a Victron Multiplus II
- Upgrade battery bank to a 48v 16s 2p prismatic battery solution using 280Ah cells, add a BMS - possibly from overkillSolar, new enclosure with low temp heating solution. Batts will probably be imported from China via AliExpress or Alibaba.
- Install a new change over unit to create an additional route for the ballast load from the existing hydro. This would divert the ballast to heat water for under floor heating in an outbuilding that's slowly being renovated. I've an M&E engineer who'll build this for me.
- Install a new 250l unvented tank. Possibly something from Gledhill.
- Install a new pico hydro scheme that’s designed to run in our wet Welsh winters to generate hot water. Probably using an off the shelf solution like PowerSprout, AmpHydro or StreamEngine
- Upgrade resistive ballast elements to a wall mounted solution. Still looking and struggling to identify components that could work.
- Identify a solution to harness energy from the solar PV when the batts are fully charged and also have a way to monitor the entire system.
If anyone spots any errors, has suggestions or can offer any input, all comments are encouraged and welcome.
Thanks in advance
Hi, At present I only have a Victron Smartsolar MPPT 75/10 solar controller. I want to add a battery monitor and display. I am considering the Cerbo GX, the GX touch display and a 500A smart shunt. Are these items all compatible with the 75/10? I also want to future proof the system as much as possible to add Victron charger/ inverter etc at a later date. Any advice appreciated.
Hey guys, this is the very simple setup I intend to run in the coming weeks - can you please help me with the following:
[image]1. Should I have a circuit breaker (as depicted)? And/or, any other protective devices in the diagram - and if so, what type/rating?
2. The system will be contained within a car for 85% of the time, I assume I should Ground the Inverter and MPPT to the vehicle (wherever I can find good contact). Though, the other 15%, it will be completely standalone at a campsite without being grounded...which I assume is the case for many setups?
3. The Panels come with some 12 Gauge, I assume that's fine to run there on? 4. ...anything wrong with the setup, improvements, suggestions?
Many thanks in advance - I really appreciate it (particularly @seb71 for getting me on the path :) ).
as I am new with all Victron components and quite francly electrics in general, I would really appreciate some opinions on my system plan. I have already put a lot of effort into this and read lots of articles and info but in the end every system is individual in itself and I am by far no expert yet.
I am planning to install all this into a bus that I am currently converting into an RV in Germany. I'm saying that to make clear that there is no current "house electricity" in the bus except cables throughout the walls to all appliances and outputs. For all 12V wiring I ran positive AND negative wires, so I guess the Orion DCDC converter might be an unneeded add-on in my case.
I don't really have many specific questions anymore. I was more hoping for someone with experience in Victron equipment to approve/or help improve my plan.
The only specific questions I am left with concerns the 4A trickle charge output of the Multiplus. Is it okay to just hook this up to my start battery positiv or do I need to be concerned about overcharging this battery once full?
I thank everyone who might get involved and look forward to any input you all might have.
Thru upgrades of some components, I am left with enough parts for 2 PV systems.
- MPPT 150/60, 12 x 285W panels
- Quattro 48/5000
- Pylontech batteries
- MPPT 150/60, 4 x 450W panels
- Multiplus 48/3000
- BMZ batteries
- need another Cerbo?
The question is: how to connect these 2 systems? One option would be to use System2 AC Out to connect to System1 AC In-1. System1 AC In-2 would be connected to the grid. System2 would not be connected to the grid (or should it?).
This is the best I can think of on my own, but I'm sure there are better options. My goal is the best possible energy management. System1 panels are primarily active in the morning, whereas System2 panels are active in the afternoon.
Can you please comment? Thank you...
I have a water turbine that is used to power a small kids shack ventilating fan next to a river, the input from the turbine is 2A (fluctuates), 12v. Will any of the charging control module for solar work for such an application? The load is 1.5A and I am planning to use a 12 V lead battery.
Are there CAD versions of Victron components available that I can use as part of my system design? Maybe DXF or other?
We are building a expedition / world traveling vehicle and are now in the process of defining the electrical components. We plan to travel without LPG, therefore we have a extended need on autark electricity (4 weeks autark time).
- Run 4 induction pads (2 x 3.7 kW)
- Run electrical oven
- Run AC with 1800W
- Run fridge / freezer 2 kW/24h max.
- Run standard washing machine
- Run water heater
- Run 2 diesel heaters
- Run 1 TV 48"
- Run all lights, water pumps, NAS, charge phones, laptops, cameras, etc
- We want to have 2 fully redundant systems 400Ah/24V and 800Ah/24V
- Solar with 2,6 kWp panels
- Charge booster (light machine of the truck, max. 100A/24V)
- Land electricity 230V AC
- Land electricity 110V AC
To stay independant, we decided for 1200Ah / 24V battery capacity LiFePo.
We would like to have all components from one provide and are convinced that VictronEnergy is a great partner!
Now my questions:
- What is better: 6 x 200Ah/24V or 12 x 200Ah/12V?
- Would VE provide a list of components and schema how to connect the components?
- What are the most important questions to ask?
Looking forward to feedback
I'm wondering if I can get some feedback about my proposed system. Diagram is below. My concerns are about whether I should be using the Cyrix-ct battery combiner instead of an ArgoFET isolator. Should the MPPT controllers feed to the start battery? as well as the house batteries?
Larger version of pic at DC supply and charging.pdf
The most uncertain component of the system is the PV array; I have limited space on the roof due to planned skylight and MaxxFan. Also I want to deck a small area of the DIY roof rack I'm building. I want to have a minimum of ~600Wp of solar, pushing as close to the MPPT's capacity as possible and the PV panels shouldn't exceed 1480mm x ~600mm dimensions. So far, the OffgridTec 150Wp modules seem to have the highest output of this module size I've seen, given they are a bit pricey though.
I'm also not 100% sure if I can connect all the Victron components via Victron Connect App. I understand Orion-Tr Smart, MPPT Smart, Smart Shunt and MultiPlus (with the VE.Bus Smart Dongle) can connect to the App, but the Cerbo can't. I'm planning to connect mainly via the App, but also would want to be able to access the system via VRM Portal when outside BT range (via the Router). The Cerbo display goes to the cabin and provides redundancy in case BT is not working or I lose my phone. I also have an Android 10" head unit (posted a question about it some time ago), so would be interesting to connect that unit to the system as well via BT or mirroring the Cerbo display.
So, I'm seeking some constructive criticism from you experienced Victron users on this set-up.
-have I overlooked, misplaced, miss-matched, miss-sized something in the main components of the design? Is there something I should change in order it to work better, or at all?
-is it possible to connect non-Victron components with the VictronConnect App, namely the two LiFePO4 -batteries?
-are there any good alternatives for the OffgridTec 150Wp panels in 2S2P that you'd know of? Could also be 3 x 200W in1S minding the size restriction.
Thanks in advance!
We're getting ready to install a new Victron setup at home. The old Trace (before Xantrex even !) finally died, and upgrading is in the winds ...
Being in the US, we need 120-0-120 split phase of course. Can anyone show the pros and cons between the two options here ?
* One large 230V Quattro to take in 240V from grid, 240V from gen (neutral not connected), spit out 240V to 100A autotransformer to sub-panel for two L1/L2 120V supplies.
* Two smaller 120V Quattro to take in 120V each from the two grid L1/L2 legs, and L1/L2 from gen, spit out two L1/L2 120V legs to sub-panel.
Can the devs please add the ability to set end of absorption tail current in the Blue Smart charger lineup when in expert mode? This would be extremely helpful to prevent premature switch to float without relying on fixed absorption and the risk overcharging when doing that.
It appears that this was at least thought of at some point given in the Absorption duration settings it directs a user to disable the tail current setting when using fixed absorption.
If this is done PLEASE allow tail current setting to be dropped below the .50% level that is in the smart shunt (and maybe other products). Odyssey batteries want to see .02% of tail current to end absorption.
i am looking at converting my home and business to full solar and wind power. But i but i need some major power for bus fleet 3 buses and soon 2 cybertruck (tri motor) (180*est kwh each) and based on buses using 446 kwh x 3. each charge needs to be at 100 kw/hr each. Plus 360 kwh at charge rate of 50 kw/hr per charger, plus home usage 25kw/day and garage(bus maintenance) using 70kw/day (7am-5pm)(10hrs) so need a discharge rate of approx 400 kw/hr mostly in off peak time 10pm - 5am and 12kw/hr during daylight hours so my estimates say i need 3000 kwh/ 450 kw battery. could you size up a system with 2 wind turbines and solar array plus battery with a option for 2 extra generating sources i.e. GENSET &/ hydrogen
I have just joined this community so please bear with me.
I recently had a battery installed removed from my property as it did not do what i expected off the shelf. It was manufactured by a company called GivEnergy and it was a very poor product with many development issues.
Now i have decided to go out this myself.
I am looking at utilising either the Multiplus or Quattro Units along with Pylontech Batteries and wondered if you had any advice, comments or examples of system design/schematics.
The system is to integrate with an already install SolarEdge 6000 HD Inverter for my PV.
I am looking for storage capacity of approximately 21kw, so utilising the Pylontech 3000 Series batttery. The biggest request i have for the system is having a large discharge power as I have a Air Source Heat Pump which can take up to 5kw for Water Heating.
My idea was to use the Quattro 8000 Unit having the batteries wired in a stack of 8 with a ring circuit back to a DC Distribution. The batteries are to be controlled using a GX Device.
My question really revolves, any lessons learned? Does anyone have any advice on the Quattro and GX Devices.
Am i doing the right thing with this?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
After many months of learning, I have decided to take a stab at designing the electrical power system for our off-grid van. I have a diagram of the system attached to this post below (Also hosted on imgur for high-res).
I have labeled everything except for fuse and wire sizes as I'd like to get some feedback on the general connections before I get into wire/fuse sizing.
A few extra questions/concerns I have:
- I have seen similar systems with 2 POS and 2 NEG cables feeding into the MultiPlus after the Class-T fuse following the positive bus bar. I have also seen systems with just 1 set of cables. For this system, which one would suffice?
- I have seen similar systems with 150A fuses coming directly out of each battery before they join at the positive bus bar. Would I benefit from this or is a 500A fuse sufficient coming out of a parallel battery arrangement.
- What type of solar panel arrangement would you recommend for this system (S/P/S-P)? I mislabeled the diagram (I named it Parallel but it's wired in Series)
This has been an amazing experience immersing myself into an area I knew nothing about just a year ago! This community has been awesome, can't wait to hear back!
I'm trying to figure out the best network setup for my 36 ft sailboat before buying the connecting pieces so I don't end up with unnecessary pieces. However, having some difficulty figuring out the best approach from Victron literature. So many options!
I have a Multiplus Compact and a BMV 712 battery monitor installed along with 200 Ah of Relion lithium fePO4 batteries. I'll be adding solar panels and replacing the existing wind charger (we're getting ready for extending cruising, pandemic allowing). I also have a gel starting battery.
I want to connect the energy system information to the Furuno TZTL12F MFD in the cockpit networked with TZTouch2 to iPad(s) belowdecks and have access to programming the Multiplus.
Must I get a Victron Color Control GX or similar to be able to talk with the Multiplus, or will I end up able to accomplish that through one of the other pieces I will end up needing to handle the remaining parts of the system? I'm assuming I will end up with a wired network, but need the Furuno and Victron units to work together.
I don't know everyone else's experience with getting support through dealers, but I've dealt with three different ones, seeking to buy the Multiplus and other pieces, and all of them quit responding once I asked detailed system questions. I sent all of them system diagrams and lists of existing equipment, they quoted a price for the initial couple of equipment pieces, and after I asked question about how to get them to work with solar panels and wind generators, they quit responding to my emails. I don't live near a dealer (the closest is 3.5 hours away), so email is a necessity.
I concluded (perhaps wrongly) that I was too small potatoes to be worth spending the time on. Anyway, was just curious if this was a common experience for small-boat system people.
This is a design for a solution that will NOT be integrated in a VAN power system (read alternator) and the 4 x Victron 100Ah superpacks were chosen because of space restrictions and specific desire not to have additional BMS equipment. All main loads are 12V e.g. lights, fridge, boiler etc and will be connected via a fuse/switch panel and the only 230V requirement is for a kettle/hairdryer and coffee grinder ;) and to charge the batteries from shore when required.
My question. Does it look right and how best can I protect the Superpacks (which will be installed under the bed in the van) from charging damage at low temperatures when passing through the Nordics?
I am looking at using a Pylontech US3000 battery for an off grid system which only has dc loads.
Planned system will be 1 or 2 x Smart Solar MPPT's connected to Cerbo via VE direct, and Cerbo connected to the Pylontech Battery via CAN connection (type B cable per manual).
Q1. Is there any need for an inverter/charger (such as Multiplus) or am I ok to delete this since I don't have any ac loads ?
Q2. Will I need a shunt (Lynx shunt) to connect to the Cerbo to measure battery current for correct operation and SOC monitoring ?
Is there anything else I should be aware of ?
Hello! I'm new to solar and i want to create a pv system with a EasySolar 48/5000. I have 16 pcs. - 360w mono panels. It will be an off grid system with at least 5kw LifePo batteries (non victron 3,2v, 120A- 16 pcs ). My question is, what BMS do you recommend? Can i use the system without a BMS? What other components from victron i need? Thanks.
I am totally new to this matter. I want to install a small solar system with a battery and feed my house grid with the generated power.
I am thinking of using 2x 320Wp panel with 2x MPPT BlueSolar 75/15, a battery (unsure which size), and an inverter - maybe Phoenix 24/250 230V VE.direct?
And to monitor all that stuff I would need a device which is able to handle 3 VE.direct devices - so I would need a Cerbo GX?
Maybe someone with better knowledge can have a quick look and advice me.
Thank you, Jorge
I have knowledge of Solar system but not as detail. I am building my own van and identified below
major Victron products. I need a comprehensive diagram/schematic that show all equipment, wiring connections including, busbars, protection devices, fuses, batteries, voltage regulators, switches and etc. I like to create Bill of Material out of this schematic and use for the installation.
Your help is appreciated in advance
Lithium-Ion Battery Bank(s)- 2 parallel banks, 24V
Total usable battery capacity - 800Ah,20Kwh,24 Volt
Battery Management System - BMS Control Unit
Solar panel - 1 each large, 0.3kW
Solar panels- 4 each medium, 0.24kW (2 parallel sets)
Max. solar power - 1.3kW
MPPT solar controllers- 1x 150/35A + 1x 100/15A
Energy Color Control GX Panels
Charge rate (max.)- 28V, 120A
IDC/AC Inverter - Quattro 24V/5000VA/120
Inputs besides panels
1- Truck Alternator - 24V
2- Shore power - 230 V
3- Generator- 230 V
1- Stabilized 24V
2- Stabilized 12V