solar

Why is it that my MPPT charge controller wattage increases a lot when I turn on my van ignition ...I have it connected via the Bluetooth app on my phone...I have two 100 watt panels...I might be getting say 50 watt reading on the phone app and when I turn on the van ignition it jumps a lot higher to maybe 80watts...why is this ?

I have a 15kva Quattro with Solar, Batteries and a Generator.

It’s , set up to start the Generator at 6 kva.

I also have a decent 4kWp of solar connected to the system.

If it is super sunny and gaining 3kWp and the base load is 6kVa, I want the system to Use Solar + Batteries until 8-9 kva, and then the Generator....

How do I prioritise this?

I am in the final stages of designing a battery backup system with the Multiplus II. The main purpose of the Multiplus II would be to have a backup power source for when the grid goes down. The Multiplus II would be fed from the grid to ensure the batteries remain fully charged. This would be the first stage of the install and gives me a very good indication of the power draw throughout the day for my critical loads.

The second part of the install would be to connect a PV system (MPPT) that would keep the batteries charged throughout the day. I would then allow a certain % discharge going into the evening. The PV array will be sized based on the power draw of the critical loads and the solar yield on an overcast day on the shortest day of the year (New Zealand - relatively high sunlight levels). On sunny days there will always be excess power available and I would like to dump the excess power into a hot water cylinder. I am looking at including the fronius Ohmpilot that would be connected to the AC-out (non critical load) of the Multiplus II. This way there will only be limited amount of power going back into the grid. I will only be installing the fronius smart meter and leaving out the Victron smart meter upstream of all the electrical loads as the fronius smart meter would be the only meter that needs to determine if the load is dumped into the hot water cylinder or if it is being exported back into the grid. I assume this is correct? Below is an overview of how I would like the final system to look:

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I look forward to comments and feedback on the above.

Hi I have set up a system on my boat I have 1600W solar Victron MPPT, 600Ah 24v battery,Quattro inverter and Venus GX and bmv 712. And 10kw generator The question I have is when Im on shore power the batteries are fully charged is there a way of prioritising the solar over the grid feed in as many marinas charge 40 cents a Kw hour other then setting up an ess assistant I don’t want to feed in just save money, I’ve read all the ESS documents just trying to get my head around it. At the moment I just unplug the shore power during the day.

I have a battery bank on a norrowbaot, charged by an alternator and mppt solar. Monitored using a BMV702.

bMV settings are

Charged voltage 13.2 as recommended in the manual for a 12v system

Tail current 1.5%

When charging via th alternator everything works fine. SOC reads 100 once the current going in drops below the tail current. This is usually when the “current consumed” is displaying at close to 0AH.

However, when the battery is being charged by solar and the engin is not running, the SOC will jump to 100% even when the “current consumed is still way off 0 (maybe at-20AH. If you then start the engine the current going into the batteries will be way above the tail current suggesting the bats are not fully charged.

The issue I think is that the MPPT controller regularly outputs less than the tail current into the batteries ( we only have. Single 160w panel, thus making the monitor believe that the tail current has been reached and the battery fully charged.

2 questions

1.does my assessment of the situation seem reasonable

2. Is there a way to prevent this (maybe by changing the charged voltage or tail current?) would there be an issue changing the BMV charged voltage to 14.4 to match the adsorption voltage set in the mppt controller?

Thanks in advance for any advice

hi,

i have a blue solar 150/60 and some raylite m-solar cells.

is someone able to please provide me with the correct settings to enter into the controller app?

thanks so much

I notice we see these dips while we charge our solar. We have 9x170 and 150/100MPPT and

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Also, the RH connector looks slightly bent. Will this be ok?

Thanks

So, this happened a couple of hours earlier. Nothing changed in regards to connections.

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It just stopped charging. All settings are as they’ve been for the past year or so. Charger swaps between bulk and absorption every few minutes, but there is no load going into the battery.

Solar voltage going up and down according to irradiance, but current stays at zero.

Any ideas?

What is the total solar power in a 3 phase system with 3 x 48/5000/70 fed by a Fronius Symo 15kw PV inverte being fed by 18kw of solar panels. I need to get my PV solar inverter support assistant set correctly. Thanks for any help anyone can provide...

I recently bought a Victron MultiPlus 48/3000/35-50 2400W Inverter/Charger and a Pylon US3000B 3.5kWh Li-Ion Battery and connected them to a 1kW solar grid connected system (with a 40A regulator). The question is how do I configure the system to prioritise solar charging instead of grid?

I have an easy solar 48/5000/70, mppt 150/100. Lithium battery and 12 panels. It seems that the system selects grid first and also scales the PV output down when the battery is full. I would rather use the PV than grid. How do I set the system so that solar is prioritised?

Does the solar array supply power through AC output 2 as well as AC output 1 when mains is available.

i was just wondering about the multiple controller update and when it will come out and if it will have support for the 100/50 controllers. I'm about to invest in some 325w solar panels to replace my older 200w solar panels and want to hook up both at the same time

I appreciate all answers or pointers to relevant topics in this forum! I don’t have an electrical background, so pardon the very basic questions and layman’s terms:

We’ve got a 3 phase domestic installation in southern Africa. It is serving as back office for an NGO school project as well as volunteer housing. It is connected to the grid, with regular occurring power cuts of multiple hours. We’ve got an automatic transfer switch to a 3 phase 5.5KVA Generator for everything except water heaters. It’s a quite old but rugged military genset. While the switchover is automatic, we start the genset manually, once the grid is gone. As soon as the grid is back, it is switched back and the genset is idling until we switch it off manually. We do not want an automatic starting and stopping of the generator, since it needs some “love and attention” once in a while.

In a modernisation of the electrical installation some time ago, we already prepared one circuit in the house carrying all important loads (total 500W…1000W, occasional 1500W). Now, with some money available we want to add uninterrupted power supply to this one circuit. The goal is have time before the genset has to be started, possibly not at all during a normal duration power cut of a couple hours in low load situations.

The first idea was to get a MultiPlus and a couple batteries. On a second thought we would like to extend the system adding some solar (only a couple hundred watts), since most power consumption is occurring during daytime/office hours. *Very* simply speaking it seems that installing 100W solar is cheaper than installing 100W additional battery capacity. Also considering that it is not the end of the world, if power on this uninterrupted supply is running low on a clouded day, since the genset can be started. Solar would also help and could be extended, if longer duration power cuts become normal.

My questions are about what is takes to control the system as described above. Is a grid/generator connected UPS system with solar supplement, containing a MultiPlus, BlueSolar Solar Charge controller (or EasySolar), batteries and solar panels a self regulating system? Or is there any other control unit necessary (battery monitor, CCGX)? We want to keep the system robust and low in cost.

The batteries should always be charged for the time the grid fails.

Solar should always be used. For charging of the batteries and supply to the AC consumers, with grid/generator available or not.

What prevents the inverter from feeding solar/battery power backwards to the generator (one phase only), trying to run it like a motor, if the grid is gone, generator is connected/running, batteries are charged, solar is generating a lot of power and there is low/no consumption in the house? What keeps the battery from being discharged to feed the AC consumers when the grid is available?

Can all this be achieved just by voltage settings in the Charger/Inverter and Solar charge controller or are additional components needed?

Hi!

I just bought a Peak Power Pack 8 Ah. This seems like a very versatile product!

In the online documentation is stated max 25V on the car/solar charge input. However in the manual I got with the product it states max 20V. The difference is of big impact since many solar panels have an open voltage of about 21-22 V.

Can I hope that it is an error in my manual, or does the delivered product support max 20V?

Manual:

Version 00, February 2016

Product marking:

PN: PPP012008000

SN: HQ1616LU24Y

v1.08

Thanks in advance!

Tobias

I am preparing to finally install my solar panels on the roof of my van conversion. My battery is 24 volt. I have nine (9) 12 volt, 100 watt renogy mono panels and was planning to have a 3s/3p configuration However, I was reading through the manual of my smartsolar 150/70 and noticed that it states that while 3 in series will work, the highest recommendation is for 4 in series.

Is the efficiency with 4 in series so much better that it would be worth going with an 8 panel (2s2p) config and ditching one of my panels, instead of my originally planned 3s3p?

In other words, would I stand to get more from an 8 panel system than a 9 panel system?

Hi

We are currently looking to install a large solar array to our catamaran and would like to know the most suitable Victron Solar Controller options for our application.

The array is to consist of 10 panels in total. 6x300w panels and 4x270w panels whis are to the specifications shown below..

The thought process is to break the panels into 5 pairs connected in series (3x600w & 2x540w) which will then run to the solar chargers (potentially 5 separate MPPT's), which will intern charge a large 12v lithium battery bank.
Can anyone provide information on the most suitable Charge controllers to achieve this, or if the is a better alternative to running 5 controllers. (I do not which to connect any more than 2 panels in series, to maintain optimum output protection against potential shading of panels)

Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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Hello guys,

I have installed a 150/35 MPPT Smart Solar charger in my van and it is driving me crazy with the noise it produces. Once I disconnect the solar panels, the noise is gone.

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Is this normal, something I have to live with or is there anything that can be done?

Thank you

I was wondering if there is a difference between using the app for Android and using the windows app for the charge controllers and if there is any extra data via a pc connection? I have a new 50/100 controller and I'm planning to buy a new 15amp one once the multi-controller update drops

For setting up solar charging for boat only after use when its done for the day. Would it be required to have bmv for SOC or does that mainly help with charging and discharging at the same time? The solar setup is on the boat shed not on the boat.

Hallo, ich habe in meinem Wohnmobil ein Blue Smart Solar 100/30 Mppt eingebaut. Wenn der eingeschaltet ist, dann stört der sehr stark den Radioempfang. Desto mehr Leistung in der Batterie wird, desto schlechter ist der Empfang. Habe schon von Scheibenantenne auf Alkovenantene umgebaut, weil ich nicht wusste, wodrann es liegt. Wenn der Regler über die App ausgeschaltet wird, ist alles gut. Daneben hängt ein kleiner 75/15 mppt der keine Probleme verursacht. Der Solarregler wurde schon mal getauscht und auch die Erdung an Masse angeschlossen, brachte kein Erfolg. Vielleicht kann jemand weiterhelfen.

Für den Fall, dass Sie nicht mehr weiterkommen möchten

Für den Fall, dass Sie nicht mehr weiterkommen möchten

Für den Fall, dass Sie nicht mehr weiterkommen möchten

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The numbers seem pretty unbelievable. is this a system fault or what could have caused this?

THanks for the help!

Hi everyone,

I am a very happy owner of a VE Phoenix inverter 12/500, attached to my solar off-grid system.

I'm using the most efficient refrigerator on the market, the Liebherr TP 1720 which averages to a mind blowing 7W power consumption which for a inner size of 145 liter is just insanely low.

While running the inverter in always ON mode everything works great and this inverter can easily handle the inrush current required, and eventually I am averaging at 11-12W consumption with the overall system, which I really can't complain about.

However, considering that the ECO mode could potentially cut another 5-6W to the above figure it would be great to take advantage of it. Unfortunately it doesn't seems to work with my setup.

When I set this mode, if the refrigerator is cold enough and doesn't require the compressor to start everything runs fine, but as soon as the refrigerator needs to turn on I get an error on the smartphone app related to something like "HIGH AC output alarm". Not sure what is the reason since I can't find much documentation on this error. All I can say is that I just have the refrigerator connected (with its original cable) to the inverter's AC output and nothing else.

When I get this error I just need to switch (on the phone app) to OFF and then to ON and the compressor starts just fine. I'm puzzled about the possible cause.

Concurrently I was just wondering whether the pulse sent in the ECO mode is long enough to allow the fridge's electronics to figure out whether it needs more power or not.

No matter what, to me it would be really great if the pulse duration could be configurable within the app, just like the interval between pulses.

I really would appreciate very much is VE could elaborate more on this topic.

Thank you very so much in advance for an answer and... for making such great products!!

(Just as a curiosity this above mentioned fridge uses a SECOP HXD30AA compressor)

Need help on how to do Zero Current Calibration on my set up:

Manual says that to do a zero current calibration "ensure there really is no current flowing in or out of the battery" and "disconnect the cable between the load and the shunt, then press 'select"'

What do they mean by "the cable between the load and the shunt"? and is that really enough to ensure "zero current flowing in or out of the battery" in the case of my set up?

I have two batteries. One negative cable (the one being fully monitored, call it the "main" battery) goes to the "bottom" of the shunt and the other battery (the one with the voltage only being monitored) goes to the "top" of the shunt. Then a "common" cable goes off the top to the common ground.

I also have solar positive and negative leads going from my solar charge controller directly to the main battery

Finally, I have bilge pump, gasoline fume detector, Victron MTTP 100/15 charge controller and Blue Seas ACR all with positive leads connected to the main battery before the battery selector switch and with their negatives going to the same common ground as the BMV 712

So in order to do a zero current calibration and "ensure there really is no current flowing in or out of the battery" would I

1. Disconnect the solar source (disconnect at solar panel end)

2. Disconnect the "common" negative feed off the "top" of the shunt.

AND

Do I also need to disconnect the charge controller, ACR and fume detector in order to accomplish the zero current calibration?

thanks!

Have to install a MPPT 150/70 solar controller on a boat having 24 Volts system voltage.

Originally there were 6 panels with MPP voltage of 31 and 38 V open circuit voltage on the drawing.

MPP current 7,67 A.

Back then I had in mind connecting 3 of them in series resulting in having 2 sets of 3 panels connected in parallel to the controller.

Efficiency would be good and 93 MPP Volts / 114 open circuit Volts within specs.

Unfortunately the boat doesn't allow for more than 5 panels to be installed.

Means I would end up with 1 set of 3 panels in series having 93 MPP Volts and a 2nd set with just 62 MPP Volts connected together in parallel to the controller.

Something tells me this doesn't work.

Connecting all 5 panels in parallel would be another option but with just 31 MPP Volts on a 24 Volt boat's system efficiency would be way down.

Any idea how to proceed here ?

Thanks.

I have a new Victron 100/50 charge controller and I cant get it to charge my Battle Born Battery. My PWM controller charges fine but for some reason the Victron will not charge the Battle Born. Solar is good and I have tried my other charge controllers and they charge fine.

About to install a victron smartsolar mppt 100/20 into my caravan with a fixed solar panel.

do I need to isolate the solar controller when charging from 240v or charging from the Anderson plug on the car?

or will the controller work it out?

Thanks

Hello,

On the following page there is a section about "New: monitor SMA & Solar Edge PV Inverters". This section also mentions that only Solar Edge models SE2200H – SE6000H (HD-Wave) were tested.

https://www.victronenergy.com/blog/2018/02/14/venus-v2-12/

In my current Solar installation I'm using a SolarEdge SE10K inverter, this is a three phase inverter. I was curious if someone has experience combining a three phase SolarEdge inverter with for example a Victron Venus GX.

Thanks!

Emiel

I have install, 2 weeks ago, new mppt75/15 with a new 105ah battery to run a small 40l camp fridge which draws 4-6 amps and has a spike of about 8.8 at startup. I want to run the fridge on the load output so set it up with the jumper removed set set my voltages through Victron Connect.

Connected the fridge, plugged the battery in and away we went fridge cycled in and out for 2.5 days before the low voltage occurred and load disconnected.

I have the solar disconnected at present as I want to test the load output connect/disconnect.

The wording in Victron connect is a bit odd with the High voltage.

I left both the mppt75/15 and the fridge connected and charged the battery using 15amp Victron battery charger overnight and through the next day, at some point it had reached float but the load did not reconnect.

I played around with the voltage settings and still did not reconnect. I set the load to always on using victron connect. The load did not reconnect. Victron connect always says load off.

Reread the manual and I find nothing that would suggest a cause, check on here and find some reference to unit could need resetting. Unplug fridge and battery from the Mppt75/15 leave it for 5 min, plug both battery and fridge back in, turn fridge on, runs for another 2 days I can turn the fridge on and off and it starts every time..

Until it reached cut out and the same problem occurs. I recharge the battery again, reset the unit, do a factory reset. With the fridge disconnected switching between always on and always off the Load shows on/off in Victron connect as expected.

However if I connect the fridge and turn it on, the fridge starts and runs. But if I switch between always on, always off and then back to on, victron connect shows load as off. There is no error lights, Nothing in victron connect to indicate that there is an error.

Reading through the forum it is behaving like some have suggested in other posts as over current, but why would the fridge cycle for days starting and stopping many times.

I have checked in Victron connect that the firmware is up to date.

Help please.