solar

I am using a SS 100/50 for 640w of panels on my RV roof and a SS 75/15 for a portable 200w suitcase. They are all on the same victron BT network but I see vastly different times for Bulk/Absorb and Float when looking at them. Depending on when I look at them I can see one controller is a couple hours into Absorb and the other controller still in Bulk mode. Is there some incompatibility there? They are all on the most current firmware offered. They are both talking to a Smart Battery Sense for temp and voltages.

I thought they used voltage to determine what stage they should be in, but that doesn't appear to be the case. Maybe I don't understand exactly how the controllers use my custom battery voltage settings? I have verified the voltage settings are exactly the same on both.

520 AH LA batteries, Float 13.5v, Absorb 14.5v and the unused Equilize 15.5v all provided by my Battery Manufacturers support team (Crown).

-Bill

PS is there a document explaining what the controllers are supposed to be doing based on the battery voltages? What setting tells the controller to switch to Absord, is it when it hits my 14.5v Absorb setting? If so, is it just time that tells it to go into Float or is it another voltage.. I know it cannot be it seeing 13.5 as it was already above that. :)

Hi,

On one of our client's site, we have a problem that we cannot solve:

It is composed with:

• A 15kVA Generator
• 600 Ah battery bank mounted in 48Vdc system
• 2 synchronised Quattro 48/5000/70
• 2 SmartSolar 250/100
• 3 BMV
• 1 CCGX

Configuration:

• Absorption voltage: 57.6Vdc on both Quattro & SmartSolar
• Floating voltage: 55.2 Vdc on both Quattro & SmartSolar
• Temperature compensation: -120mV/°C on SmartSolar
• A couples of Generator Start conditions (temperature, voltage, SoC, overload, etc...)

Please find below a synoptic of this system, and take note that one of the SmartSolar is connected to the CCGX with Ve.direct/USB adaptator while the other one has direct Ve.direct connection:

We found out when the generator is ON, and after reaching a certain voltage, below the absorption voltage (for example 56.4Vdc), the solar stops producing.

At first, and because I didn't know yet about the DVCC feature, I tried the old way to prioritize the solar by adding a sligthly different voltage on the SmartSolar (+0.2Vdc => 57.8Vdc @ 25°C instead of 57.6Vdc). It worked pretty fine on the tests bench (1 x Quattro + 1 x SmartSolar) but unfortunately didn't work on the client's site (2 x Quattro + 2 x SmartSolar).

Then, I set-up the DVCC, making sure all the software version were fine, tested it in my office => all good. But then, again, same behaviour in our client's site, the solar is not prioritize (needless to say, the client is not happy).

Finally, I set-up a mixed solution, DVCC and +0.2Vdc on the SmartSolar, it worked a bit better but not enough for the client.

Below, a screenshot of the VRM of yesterday's recharged:

We can see that the SmartSolar [289] gets off after a little while, the 2nd SmartSolar took off an hour before.

So my questions:

• Do you have any idea of what's going on ?
• Has DVCC feature been tested with a couples of Quattros and SmartSolar ?
• Does DVCC work with a SmartSolar connected with Ve.direct/USB while the other one is connected straight on Ve.direct ? Not sure the software can easely do such a thing.
• On Victron Connect App, the voltage parameters are given for 25°C or 20°C ?
• Do you think a Smart Battery Sense will fix the problem ? I readed a lot about it (https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/258/dvcc-battery-temperature-sensor.html)
• Can you confirm me the temperature compensation parameters in a MultiPlus/ Quattro is -5mV/°C or less ?
• Last, why Victron choose as a default settings to prioritize the AC power over the Solar ?

Thank you a lot in advance.

Best Regards

Hi , I'm building a battery box which will be removed from the vehicle, and charged off solar, when camping. I'm fitting a MPPT 75/15 solar controller to the battery box to control solar charging and loads while camping, and will be hard-wiring the controller to the battery.

When in the vehicle, the battery will charge off the alternator via a uni-directional voltage sensing relay.

Question: Do I need to isolate the solar controller from the battery while it is being charged off the alternator, or is it OK to just leave it connected to the battery in parallel? (No loads will be connected to the controller while it is in the vehicle).

If I have to disconnect it, would normally-closed 30A horn relay in the + line between the battery and the regulator do the trick? The trigger current for switching the relay (to break the battery-controller + connection) would come form the battery box connection point to the alternator circuit. I could also do this with a manual switch, but would prefer to automate it. One less thing to forget.

Thanks a lot!

Danie

Hello,

On the following page there is a section about "New: monitor SMA & Solar Edge PV Inverters". This section also mentions that only Solar Edge models SE2200H – SE6000H (HD-Wave) were tested.

In my current Solar installation I'm using a SolarEdge SE10K inverter, this is a three phase inverter. I was curious if someone has experience combining a three phase SolarEdge inverter with for example a Victron Venus GX.

Thanks!

Emiel

Which panel solar configuration?

Hello,

I need an advice for the best panel solar system to install on my 30 feet sailing boat cruising in the Caribbean.

The current situation is :

2 x115 Ah Trojan deep flooded services batteries (in parallel)

2 solar panel of 105 W in parallel (Impp=5.66A)

8 AGW cable from panels to controller (35 feet length)

1 PWM controller of 30 A

I’d like to add 2 other panels. So what is better to do:

1. Put all the 4 panels in parallel (105x4 W) / change cable / keep the PWM controller of 30 A or buy a new Blue solar charge controller MPPT 100/30 ?

2. Put in parallel only each 2 panels (105x2 W x2) / run 2 x 8AWG cables (30 feet length) from panels to junction box close to the controller / run 1 x 8 AWG cable from junction box to the controller / keep the PWM controller of 30 A or buy a new Blue solar charge controller MPPT 100/30 ?

Thanks for any advice.

This image (taken from internet) shows a CCGX indicating that there is solar input, the orange block at lower right.

We have an off-grid system with Multiplus inverter/charger, diesel generator, batteries and solar array. We don't see the orange block for solar input on our CCGX display.

In this image below our generator is running, shown in the Grid block (is that correct? Should it be called 'Generator' rather than 'Grid'?). At the same time our solar array was generating around 2 kW but is not shown. Why is that?

This problem, if it is one, may be connected with the fact that when logging generated data and uploading to the VRM site we do not see solar data, even though we have this setting checked:

'Synchronize VE.Bus SOC with battery'

Hello, I had a question about Multiplus and Multigrid. I am building a small off-grid system with 4 solar panels off 300 watts each that will charge battery's using an MPPT charge controller. I also want a backup generator to charge the battery's if they get under a certain level, and I will be using an inverter to make 230VAC 50Hz from the battery bank. At least I am also using a wind turbine that will give me a peak of 600 watt.

So a short list of items.

- 6x Solar panel 300 watt

- Battery bank

- Multiplus or Multigrid?

- Inverter

- Backup generator

What will be the right choice? Multiplus or multigrid.

And is this a realistic setup? Or is there a more efficient way?

Hi there,

We have an install where the customers' lights are flickering when loads turn on/off as well as being noticeably dimmer when large loads are running. The system is a Victron Multiplus 5kVA with SmartSolar 250V/85A and 400Ah of Carbon Lead batteries.

I have had Fronius AC-Coupled systems with light issues, but never DC-coupled. There are LED, fluoro and incandescent lights in different parts of the house and all react similarly; anyone knows what could be causing this?

kind regards

Dean

Hello

I have bought myself 7200Wp of solar panels. 24 x 300wp facing a bit of south. Incline on the roof at 50degrees.

I also have an 40kWh lithium battery. 50V min 60V max. Max charge and discharge power is 9kW. Max discharge of 18kW for 2hours. The battery will be expand every year until the first place is filled and then I have 100kWh. There is already started on making place for an second battery of another 100kWh. But that is a bit dreamy.

Now the goal is that I put the entire house offgrid, but have the grid as backup and pull in when the battery is flat. I may not feed back to the grid. In summer I think, depending on how much electric distance we drive, we can make it 4 months completely offgrid. In Winter the house will be almost offgrid and the cars will be charging most of the time at night from the grid. Offpeak time electricity is 12% cheaper.

We have a plug in hybrid. Charging is 10kWh in 3 hours or 11kWh in 8 hours. +200kWh a month. And a full EV. Charging every day 10-15KWh in 3-5 hours. +300kWh a month. Sometimes we need fast charging in between runs and then I want to be able to charge 3 phase 16A =11kW, this may be grid charging. The car can handle up to 22kW 3 phase 32A but my grid connection is only 3 phase 25A.

So the configuration needs to be a 3fase configuration with a power output of + 15KW.

What gear do I need?

Thanks in advance

Greets

Tim

New to solar and charging....I have 600W of solar panels on the roof of van. I have two 12V AGM batteries connected to the panels via MMPT charge controller 150/85.

The battery is for example at 95% charge. The charge controller is saying that it has 15 amps of current to send to the battery, but when I view my battery monitor, it is showing that only 8 amps of charge.

Is this due to the state of the solar controller? (its in the absorption state currently) I dont quite understand the various states as I have not looked up what they all mean. I assume becuase its almost full that it slows down the charge rate? What state is where it sends full charge controller current to the battery?

Hallo,

I have the MPPT 75/15 unit installed in my 4x4 and connected the the Auxiliary battery for solar charging (using a 100W solar panel) as well as to manage the load output. Since solar may not always be sufficient in high demand situations (and/or not able to charge via alternator when stationary), I plan on connecting a BluePower 12V/15A charger to the mix where camp sites may have 220V power.

If both devices are directly connected to the battery (with the MPPT providing solar power to battery), will there be any risk when the Charger is plugged in and also providing charge to battery? Will the MPPT detect this higher charge on the battery and then go to float mode (or switch off)? Any settings I need to make on Connect App?

Thanks

Brian

Hello,

I have a BMV-712 and a Smart Solar charger. My lithium batteries have an internal BMS which cuts them off from charging at 25F which is too low for my taste. I would like to have the solar charger cut off all charging somewhere around 5C like Victron suggests. What is the simplest way for me to do this?

One idea would be to use a temp sensor on the BMV and then network the BMV to the solar charger. Not sure what cabling I would need to do the latter, but all of this is predicated on being able to configure the solar charger to utilize this incoming temp and cut off charging. I assume this is possible with the Victron Connect app? If not, how else can I do this?

Thanks!

Adam

We are soon to be installing a Victron SmartSolar 100/50 in our RV. It will be connected to 4x 100W solar panels in a 2s2p configuration. Our travel trailer’s 12V ground is connected to the trailer chassis.

Do I need to connect the solar panel negative to the PV- on the Victron solar charger or can I instead connect PV- to the existing common ground (ie the chassis) and connect the solar panel negative to the common ground too?

This is how another MPPT Charger we have installed is wired but I see no mention of it in the Victron documentation. Doing this would simplify our cable runs.

Please see picture. I'm trying to figure out why no watts are being tracked as well as the crruent/amps always seems to show zero in both solar and battery section. This happens even when I plug in a space heater and put it on high. That should definitely draw some amps. Please help.

Editing to add some more photos that may help:

Thanks!

Hi

Is it possible to charge a phev with solar via inveter with 24 or 48 volt battery bank?

For example the Hyundai ionic level 1 charger specs are 240v 8amp I think

Has anyone done this or similar I’m curious

Thanks

Hello everyone, and thank you for any all helps and responses in advance.

• My home is off the grid.
• Its an AC coupled system, with a SMA sunnyboy 5kw inverter
• I am running a Victron Quattro 48/8000.
• I have 48kwh lead acid battery bank.

When my PV is at very low levels - hard to define a clinical level, but approx sub 300watts - i.e. in the morning at sunrise and evening at sunset, the lights in my home flicker / strobe.

Already tried:

1) I have tried it with old tungsten bulbs and with new LED bulbs - same issue across both.

2) When I increase the load in the house significantly (Over 1.5kw approx e.g. by turning on a heater) the issue resolves itself.
My normal base load/usage in the house is approx 350-450 watts but as you can imagine that is rarely constant.
Obviously I cant be running heaters/using excess loads just to resolve the issues as I live off the grid with limited power reserves.

3) We had the same issue with the fronius 5kw inverter we had in before - we then swapped this out for the SMA sunnyboy - exact same issue / no difference.

4) I have run my lighting circuits through an online UPS sinewave inverter - cures the issue immediately.

Given what I have tried above, have to be left to believe it is the Quattro, generating a poor quality sinewave/poor elecricity supply at low levels...

Is there a know issue at low levels with the Quattros?
(Ive searched the forums before posting - I cannot see anything)

What else can you suggest I attempt to resolve this issue?

Many thanks

Michael

Hi,

I use a Quattro with Sunnyboy inverter and the system decides on a bright sunny day to run off batteries rather than solar? Come night time the batteries are depleted. I would prefer to maximize solar use first, then use batteries, and lastly grid. I also may not feed back to the grid hence I cannot use ESS on my system in South Africa. Is it possible to write a tool to assist with this? I am computer literate but would like some guidance as to what is possible.

Thanks in advance, Jury.

Hi,

For reference, the boat is 54ft x 10ft, standard wide beam. I've just built it, so it's a start from scratch with everything.

I'm contemplating running a 24v forklift battery bank, with a 24/5000 Multiplus, then having a 24v - 12v DC-DC converter to run all my DC domestic on board, which will be lighting, shower pump, water pump and bilge pump.

The reason for wanting 12v on board is ease of buying lights etc, 24v is not so readily available. I am also being majorly persuaded to go 12v by a boater friend, who says 12v is the most efficient way of having light. I understand the larger size cable costs for voltage drop, I'm ok with this.

The reason I want a 24v battery bank and Multiplus is because I will have 2.94kw of solar panels on the roof (12 x 245w) and I'm told having this at 24v will be much better. This is why I'm split between the 2 systems.

I guess my question is, will this system work for me? I plan to be off grid so I want to get this right.

I'm new to all this so I'm very much learning as I go.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Jon

I have a working Zeus 2 on a NMEA network.

I am adding a (new) 12v battery bank and solar panels 2(2x(2x325w) panels (4 mppt controllers)

Thinking of adding Victron mppt controllers, BMS, monitoring, alternator charging etc [Full system]