I've searched and cannot find an answer to the question I have. I have 2 x 100Ah poweroad infinity LiFePO4 batteries - and after noticing that they were discharging/charging with different loads via the inbuilt BMS I contacted the vendor who put me in touch with the manufacturer. The manufacturer has suggested rather than a typical parallel wiring configuration (+ve terminals connected, -ve terminals connected, then a take off from 1 battery's +ve terminal to the load, and from the other battery, the negative feed), they've suggested that I have take offs from BOTH battery +ve and -ve terminals into the respective +ve and -ve busbars I have on my system. Whilst I'm not that familiar with it batteries I was a bit surprised at this suggestion - but I'm about to do it as currently I have this abnormal load + cell balancing going on (I'm sure its the BMS personally...)
Here's the wiring diagram that they've supplied me with.
For completeness, their reply to my question was as follows:
Thank you for getting in touch Your method or wiring is absolutely fine for a Lead acid Battery fit out, but not the ideal recommended way for lithium This is because the current flow (red cable) goes to the battery on the left …. And then has to decide how much current goes through the left battery and then how much goes through the right hand battery ……. There’s no guarantee that the current will split equally (same on the negative side) So the cable 1 (charger) should go to the busbar – and a cable OF EQUAL LENGTH – from each battery to the busbar Same for the negative - - cables of the same length form each battery to the busbar Fundamentally there’s nothing really wrong in what your have done (don’t get concerned) , but getting the exact cell balancing won’t occur automatically If you use the app you might find there are different Voltage rating on the cells ……. However the batteries will readjust in time Its just your app will show a variation Therefore to get over this and do it correctly, which is better longer term, if you can change to what I am suggesting would be better
Anyway, in the meantime I bought a smart shunt. With the docs saying that this should be the only thing on the negative battery pack terminal to measure the current correctly how should I wire this up?
There's two possible options that I'm thinking of:
1) BOTH -ve batteries connecting to the shunt, then the shunt to my -ve busbar if I can get the terminals on there.
2) An intermediary -ve busbar, where the two batteries connect to this new bus, along with the shunt, which then feeds my system -ve busbar?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hello and good day to you all,
I'm considering using the Smartshunt 500A in a fair amount of boats so I did some testing. I setup the Smartshunt and a load. Started logging over VE-Direct storing the 'SOC' and 'Current' every second or so and made a nice graph. With the settings I made in the Smartshunt I tried to do the SOC calculation myself using the current and timestamps from the log file on the Peukert equation. I managed to get an exact match but only after I changed the 20hour discharge rate to 10hour (leaving the amount of Ah filled in with the Smartshunt and my equations the same). Can anyone confirm that the Smartsunt calculates "Peukert_t = dr*(Ah_rated/ (current*dr))^peukert_constant" ? where dr=discharge_rate=10 instead of 20.
I added the graph I made for reference. It has a load I changed a bit while discharging and added a little bit of charging at the end. I do regret rounding down the SOC numbers from VE-direct though.
From reading the manuals the SmartShunt compared to the BMV devices is lacking the pins to set an output alarm or relay.
Which means that I cannot use the SmartShunt together with the Battery Protect to disconnect my DC loads based on the SOC of the battery.
However as both the SmartShunt and the Smart Battery Protect have bluetooth and I have seen in the app that there are networking features, can the SmartShunt talk to the Smart Battery Protect wirelessly and tell the Smart Battery Protect to disconnect my DC loads when let's say my lead battery reaches 50% SOC?
Thank you very much,
Thanks for the response with the CCGX defining points for chargers, looks like I should have rtfm in the first place.
I've come up with a modified version of the "MultiPlus system example 3kW-24V-120V AC" system schematic. It's a small cabin with only small AC loads with a generator for supplemental charging needs during low solar generation. Sharing it with the community to see if I'm getting something very wrong and need to change my parts before ordering.
So the MultiPlus is VE.Bus and the MPPT is VE.Direct, but does connecting them both to the Color Control GX allow the temperature probe from the Multiplus to register with the MPPT or should I get the ASS000100000 accessory probe to go with the SmartShunt?
I feel kind of stupid not being able to figure this out: how do you disconnect the 18 AWG power cable from a SmartShunt?
I have 2 100AH lithium batteries on a boat where the negative is parallel jumpered at the batteries with a single negative wire going to the load. The 2 positive terminals run independently to a battery switch about 6 feet away. 99+% of the time, the battery switch is set to use both batteries and the load draws from both. This has never been a issue. Can I just treat this parallel bank as a single battery? From reading other posts, it seems like the long leads to the battery switch may not be a good idea. This was the factory set up and I can’t see a great benefit in trying to manually manage these 2 batteries independently.
I had something strange happen that I don’t understand. I installed a 220 ah battery bank and left it overnight without other chargers than a solar panel. This is a boat and the fridge is on and draws power. In the morning the consumption was about 30ah which left the SOC around 80%. When I opened up the VictronConnect app a moment later, the SOC had jumped up to 100%, and I really don’t understand why. The ratio between charged and discharged energy would suggest to me that the SOC should be less
Can anyone help me shed a bit of light on this one? Thanks! :)
Currently I am working on a simple setup for a camper. I've added AC and DC load to the schematic.
[image]I would like to ask the experts out there to check if this setup is correct or if I still need to adjust something here.
For now I only want to use shore power to charge the battery and in the future I want to expand this with solar panels.
I do not intend to connect this setup to the alternator for the time being.
Can a Multiplus get the SOC from a Smart Shunt through a VE.Smart Network using a VE.Bus Smart Dongle?
My SmartShunt is installed on an RV and is monitoring two Battle Born GC2, LIFEPO4 batteries with solar controlled by a BlueSolar Charge Controller MPPT 150/35. The Output list shown on the main screen has Voltage, Current, etc. The Input only lists the "Starter Battery." Is this normal, or should the display show the solar, and, when appropriate, input from shore power?
Can we remove the supplied bolts from the 2000A shunt, place our copper bus bars over the holes on battery and load side and use new, longer stainless steel bolts to fasten the busbars to the shunt?
Ps. This is for a 135kVA system with busbars running the length of the wall - batteries on lower side and loads on higher side.
I am in country with limited product availablity. I ordered for a client two Victron systems. Two BlueSolar MPPT, Two SmartShunts and two LoRaWAN. I realize now I should have purchased SmartSolar MPPT and BVM-712. I promised the client Bluetooth and Internet connection for their hotel. My distributor doesn’t carry SmartSolar, Bluetooth dongle or BVM-712. They do however have a BVM-702 but, doesn’t solve the Bluetooth and limited VE.Direct. I hope that Raspberry Pi could solve this issue. Any suggestions?
I have a SmartShunt already installed and I'm about to install TWO 150/100 SmartSolar MPPT Controllers and a Color Control GX. I get that I can use VE.Smart to get the SmartShunt, and MPPT controllers to talk to each other, and can use VictronConnect to see and manage them... But, how can I make these devices talk to the CCGX? My goal was to use the CCGX to manage/monitor devices remotely over the internet. But, everything I'm reading seems to indicate the CCGX is the odd man out here. Can I connect the GGCX to a VE.Direct on one of the devices?
When I decided to install Solar, I had no idea that the data connections would be the most difficult and confusing part!
I hope someone can lend some help!
I have a SmartShunt and a 80Ah flooded battery, I have set discharge floor to 50%.
When the "% state of charge bar" shows 0% is the battery 0% or is it 50% because of my set of discharge floor 50%?
I'm building a new setup for a 24V system with Multiplus II for solar and wind. The battery system is flooded lead acid and I'm interested in monitoring the battery level and charge rate with a Cerbo GX. My question is about the following busbar setup I'm currently planning:
Left side: Lynx Power-In (4 IO slots)
1/ 24V battery system
Right side: Lynx Distributor (4 fused IO slots)
1/ Multiplus II 24V 3000VA
2/ Solar charge controller
3/ Wind charge controller
4/ Victron non-isolated DC-DC converter 24V->12V
It would be elegant to add a Lynx Shunt V.E. Can in the middle, but it would be quite expensive and the CNN-type fuse is crazy expensive. So my idea is to add a 500A SmartShunt between between lower negative bus and then a wire/plate between the upper positive bus. (On a side note, if the Distributor had 5 slots, I could only use that and put the shunt on the negative battery cable.)
Is there anything wrong with this setup for the intended purpose? Do I still need a separate fuse for the battery side?
I have a small off grid system which consist from the followings:
DVCC is enabled on the RPI while the Smart Networking is disabled.
During the night the SmartShunt shows a consumption of app 1.3A while at the same time the Charger is showing a consumption of only 0,8A. I have only DC loads that are connected to the charge load output. The only exception is the supply of the SmartShunt, which is connected directly to the positive pole of the battery via the temperature sensor.
The SmartShunt was calibrated as described in the manual.
The SOC is during the night dropping down from 100% to approximately 84,3%. With settings I have managed that the SmartShunt synchronized at the end of the absorption phase. At the moment, of synchronizing the SOC is showing a value of approximately 90,3%.
if a am calculating the SOC with the current shown on the Charger the SOC would drop down app. to 90% and the synchronization would happen close to 100%. In my opinion, the current measured by the SmartShunt is NOK while the current measured by the charger is OK. Also, if I am looking on the discharging and charging energy values over a period of time the discharging energy is double higher than the charged energy.
The second think what I have observed is that during the floating stage of the charger the SmartShunt measure a negative current? This is another reason I think the SmartShunt measures a higher current than it does in reality.
Any Idea how to solve this inaccurate measurement?
[image]My voltage on Cerbo GX and VictronConnect is correct but the percentage is incorrect. The SmartShunt is setup to be the provider for the voltage. My shunt is hooked up properly via battery minus/load minus but I do have the power cable from the shunt hooked up to a small fuse block instead of the batteries directly. Could that cause the drift? I’ve also never done a Zero Calibration.
Batteries are 500AH LifePo4 Battleborn Batteries
One thing that is interesting is that if I reboot the system by turning off and on the master disconnect switch, the percentage will correct itself.
Anyone ever deal with this percentage drift?
I know! This question have been asked before, and I think I have read every answer twice...and I am still not able to get my system to behave as I want.
System consists of 2x24V 100Ah LiFoPo4 batteries wired in parallel, SmartShunt, SmartSolar Charger MPPT 100/50, MultiPlus-II 24/3000/70-32, Cerbo GX and some other bits that are not important here.
I tried to configure the SmartShunt as per. the manual:
Charge Voltage: 26,7 ( SmartSolar float - 0,3v)
Tail Current: 2%
Charged detection time: 3 minutes
But this resulted in SOC resetting to 100% every morning when the SmartSolar started charging.
Based on the description of what the parameters does, and the graphs I could pull from vrm, I then tried to set the charge voltage to 28V and lowered the detection time to 2 min. But now the SOC does not reset even when the SmartSolar is done charging.
Below are graphs of such a scenario:
I do not understand why the SOC was not reset to 100% when the voltage was >28V and amperage was close to zero for many minutes?
Settings for the SmartShunt are:
Settings for the SmartSolar are:
I hope you guys can help here, because I don't understand it :)
I have just gotten my setup up and running, and are currently testing the actual output of the solar array.
But I have found some discrepancies between what the SmartSolar, the SmartShunt and the MultiPlus are reporting.
In the "pure" charging scenario, the smartsolar reports 174W coming in, but the battery is only getting 147W.
In the AC discharge scenario, the smartshunt is reporting -2184w from the battery, but the multiplus are only outputting 1897w.
Where are my watts going? :)
Hello all, first post here.
A couple of days ago I installed a SmartShunt 500/50 and a 75/15 Smart MPPT controller in a motorhome. When everything is off and nothing can be used the shunt is showing current draw of 0.10A to 0.20A.
According to the datasheets, the MPPT has self consumption of 10mA, and the SmartShunt is <1mA. 11mA combined for the two. However, I'm drawing 10 to 20x more. The accuracy of the shunt is ±0.1A, so shouldn't it be reading 0.1A as a maximum? I appreciate this is a minor amount... I'm just curious as to why the numbers are 10 to 20 times out.
A couple other question while I'm here:
Is there any value in creating a VE network and joining both devices?
For the shunt, I only updated the battery Ah. Did I need to do anything with other settings and options (Sync SOC, zero current calibration, charged voltage etc)?
I didn't really know anything about solar and electrics before this, so it's been a steep learning curve! Many thanks in advance.
The SmartShunt is a great idea but the current version has some weak points. Things that would make this product awesome would be:
1. Improved IP rating: The current version is only IP21 so not suited to any external install without an additional enclosure. Making an IP65 version would be great for under-bonnet or installs that are somewhat open to the elements, even if it meant not having direct access to the VE.Direct port.
2. Better Bluetooth Antenna: The Bluetooth antenna in the current SmartShunt is woeful. When installed inside an enclosure you're lucky to get 5m of range. This really needs to be improved.
3. Data logging: The current implementation of the Victron Connect app only graphs live data from the SmartShunt so to see the graph you need to keep the app open. It would be much more useful if the SmartShunt could log the data and then the VC app can download and display it, even if it's only the last hour or so.
Hello i have a batteryseparator in my boat. I recently bought a smartshunt an MPPT charger for my solar panel and a solar panel with 120 watts. I asked an certified boat electrician to do this install, he said that he needs to rebuild the battery separator or otherwise the smartshunt will not get correct readings. He mentioned that he probably needs to redo the cables and probably also rearrange the batteries (2 of them - 1 start battery other is used for fridge, lights etc).
Is it really this much hassle to get the smartshunt installed? Or is the electrician just wanting to make extra bucks?
How should an correct electrical drawing look with this setup?
Installed the SmartShunt 500A and it works pretty well. Definitely complements the information gathered from my Smart Solar charger. However, I can't figure out why the discharge cycle depth is fixed at 65%. Why isn't this a programmable value? My usual battery bank (flooded lead-acid) discharge cycle depth is 70% to 75% - so the Smart Shunt history shows zero discharge cycles.
Also still tweaking the parameters for synchronization. All the directions assume the charger and the battery are the only things connected. In actuality there are other devices being powered by the solar panel - the load can vary from minute to minute. So figuring out values for the tail current in both devices that result in reliable 100% synchronization is challenging. How come the charger and shunt - which are connected in a VE network - don't share more information? When the solar charge controller flips from Absorption to Float, if the Smart Shunt hasn't yet synchronized the SOC, the voltage will never be high enough during this charge cycle to automatically snyc the Smart Shunt. My MPPT (Victron SmartSolar 100 | 30) controller should tell the Smart Shunt it thinks the battery is charged, and it's time to sync.
I am reaching out because I really need help configuring the Victron SmartSolar 150/35 and the SmartShunt 500A for my 48V AGM-battery (8 x Fullriver DC400-6).
Since I live in Norway and charging is very limited in the period from November - February this is tricky!
I have a potential for (theoretical) 33,6A solar charge with my six 325W panels (3s2p), but in the mentioned period I rarely see much current (aprox. 4-6A). So if I follow recommendations with 3-4% of C20 (415Ah) for my batteries I will have a problem with SOC calculations in the shunt. As I have understood the shunt will estimate a 100% SOC when 3 conditions are met: Charged voltage, tail current and charged detection time.
In my case the voltage for charging will be high enough to achieve "charged voltage" every day (because of my 6 panels), but the current will in periods be as low or even lower than the tail current setting if 3-4% (C20) is used. I'm afraid this will result in a very inaccurate SOC calculation..
For the Smartshunt I need help configuring the following settings:
- Charged voltage? Here I have seen that 0,8V below float is recommended, while others recommend 0,8V below absorption for Solar - what is correct?
- Discharge floor? For AGM I believe this value should be no lower than 50% based on what I have read - correct?
- Tail current? In my head I would have to set tail to 0,8% - 1% or even lower and adjust this to about 2% or slightly higher as charging gets better from mid February - sounds resonable?
- Charged detection time? For the charged detection time I have read that 8-10 min would give a better calculation than the default 3 min for solar charging with low current - correct?
- Peukert exponent? Here I have no idea what to configure, all my reading suggests different options so please help me.
- Charge efficiency factor? The only thing that is certain is that the standard 95% must be way too high for my system, and maybe 70-80% would be more correct?
- Current threshold? I have no clue what this means and need help
- Time-to-go averaging period? I have no clue what this means and need help
For the Smartsolar I need help with these settings:
- Temperature compensation? my batteries says -4mV per cell, and eight
6V batteries in series would then be -96mV according to my calculations - correct?
- Re-bulk voltage offset? Here I have no idea what to set and need help
- Maximum absorption time? My batteries should not be in absorption for
more than 8 hours, so maybe the default 6 hours is ok?
- Tail current? Here again I have no idea what to set because of the
varying charging conditions. My Fullriver batteries only have info of
the state when absorption changes to float: I = 0.012 - 0.02 x C20.
If I understand this correct the tail current will taper down from 8,3A
(0,02x415) to 4,98A (0,012x415). My main concern for this is that I
rarely see 8A charging in the darkest period of the year.. The default
value set on the SmartSolar is 1,0A, will it be OK to leave it at
default and max the absorption out to the battery max rating at 8 hours?
I will let the SmartSolar use "Adaptive mode" for Absorption.
I am really sorry to bother you guys with all my questions, but I know the knowledge is in this community and I haven't been able to get any reasonable answers from the "experts".
I would highly appreciate it if anyone could help me.
Thanks in advance!
I'm struggling with system always resetting to 100% SOC when the solar charger kicks in. I've tried to increase the absorbtion voltage slightly (0,25V above the same in MultiPlus), but it still resets. Today it was showing 82% and as soon as the solar charger kicked in it reset to 100% again.
I have the following setup:
1x 300Ah lithium battery + 105Ah AGM starter battery
2x 160W solar panels
MultiPlus C 12|1600|70
Cerbo GX + Touch 50
currently im tracing down some intermediate current spikes while my vehicle is not in use and the Smart Shunt seems to be a good addition to this and also in the future. I wonder about the history feature using the app, can I
- Retrieve time resolved data on current over the last e.g. 12h using the App? So I could connect twice a day and get a good idea on when and how much current is pulled from the battery. I cant stay connected all the time using my phone for obviuos reasons.
Are there any improvements possible to either the app or the Smartshunt firmware that can improve the bluetooth connectivity? My shunt only connects to the app if I am within a 30cm radius. However devices can detect the smartshunt from meters away. Are there any other apps that could be used instead of the Victronconnect or should I return the shunt?
Hi, just planning my install, can I mount a SmartShunt directly on a negative busbar (providing the battery negatives are on the correct side of the shunt on the busbar, and the load negatives on the opposite side). Are there copper contacts on the underneath of the shunt?