I'am using two serial 12V 122Ah AGM batteries to get 24V. I'am measuring the Mid-Point Voltage via a SmartShunt and a Multimeter.
Between the Batteries there is a thirdparty balancer which measures the voltage of each battery and charges the one with less voltage with up to 2A to equalize.
Also the Battery are AGM of the type "China" :)
+ ---[BAT1]---[BAT2]---- -
I'am charging the batteries with a victron IUoU Charger which delivers maximum 15A
Absorption Voltage is set to 29,4V, compensated by 60mV/degrees measured at the surface of BAT1
so far so easy.
Usually Absorbtion starts at a tail current of around 10A and from around 6-8A tail current (approx. 95% SOC) the Mid-Point deviation reaches 4% or more.
Today: at 94%, 4A Tail Current BAT2 got 15,3V out of the 29,6V feed. For testing reason, the balancer has been removed.
The Age of the batteries is 1,5 Years, i never discharge it more than 70%SOC.
What could be the issue here, higher inner resistance of one Battery? is there a way to mitigate that?
Does anyone know where I can find info about using a Victron SmartShunt as a energy meter?
I have one being used as my battery monitor, and now got a 2nd that want to hook up to log DC charging from a non-victron solar/DC charger connected to it. With aim that can then include this in stats for day of PV generated vs Consumption, etc.
Went into VE Connect and under setting for the 2nd shunts I changed "Monitor Mode" to "DC Energy Meter", and then the "DC meter type" to "DC-DC charger".
It states it will show on GX Device and in VRM but can only get very basic info shown on later and nothing on my GX device (VenusOS running on a Raspberry Pi)
Searched for documentation for "DC Energy Meter" and "DC meter type" settings but nothing is showing in Victron help or in any forum discussions. So can only guess maybe this is a pretty new feature and most users haven't used or is still in development to integrate better with VRM/GX.
Anyone else successful in this or know where can find info on how to config/etc. Thanks is advance.
I have 3 separate battery banks I want to monitor on my boat - house bank, bow thruster, and A/C. I also have 2 starter batteries which I'd monitor voltage only.
- If I install a SmartShunt 500 on each bank, can I see all 3 sets of data in VictronConnect via BlueTooth connections?
- If I add a Cerbo GX, connected via NMEA2000 to my Garmin MFD's (supports Victron), can I see all 3 sets of SmartShunt data coming from SmartShunt to Cerbo GX (via BT) and then to NMEA2000?
[image]I have been using my SmartShunt for some time successfully. This weekend while monitoring my battery from the app it suddenly disconnected and greyed out in the app. Now when I try to connect it says bluetooth is busy.
Here's what I tried, nothing has recovered:
1. Turning off bluetooth on my phone, waiting couple minutes then turning on
2. Setting airplane mode, turning back on after a couple minutes.
3. Rebooting my device
4. Powering off device, leaving off overnight, turning back on
5. removing the SmartShunt from bluetooth settings
6. Clearing app cache/data
7. Removing and re-installing the app
Here's my log:
Can anyone assist?
I have the Bluetooth smartshunt. Does anyone known if it is compatible with the app on my Raymarine Axiom? The chart plotter says it detects no hardware. You’d think it would Bluetooth right the the plotter.
Considering purchase of a SmartShunt 500 for our new RV.
I believe the SmartShunt 500 is adequate to handle our charging and usage power configuration at this time. Looks like there is a little buffer. However, this does not account for any unforeseen future upgrades on our new RV trailer.
Am I thinking about this properly and should I purchase the next level, SmartShunt 1000?
I don't want to make an unnecessary purchase.
Thanks much for any input.
400 amps......Four 100 amp Battleborn Li Batteries
18 amps.......Two 190 Watt Roof Solar Panels
11 amps.......200 Watt Portable Solar Panel
???...............DC to DC Charger Truck Alternator
I'm having zero luck getting either my iPhone or MacBook Pro, or the Vitron ConnectApp (Running on the MacBook Pro) to see any Bluetooth signal from the Smartshunt 500 - and I've tried 2 different Smartshunts so far and have held my Apple devices inches away from the Smartshunt.
I've also tried the Smarthshunt with and without connecting a load to the 'System Minus'. Neither arrangement works. The Bluetooth light flashes but neither of my Apple devices sees any Bluetooth signal, nor does the Connect App see any Voctron device.
I haven't tried the Connect App with my iPhone, as I only want to connect via the Mac OS on my MacBook (and don't feel like experimenting using the iPhone under the circumstances).
I'm running OS 'Sierra' 10.12.6 on a 'early 2011 13" MacBook Pro. When I ran the Connect App, downloaded and installed from the Apple AppStore, it caused my computer to get so HOT that I couldn't touch it. So I trashed that app and downloaded the ConnectApp V5.8 from Victrons web site - which ran without issue other than that it also sees no Smartshunt device.
As my iPhone and MacBook are able to see each other's Bluetooth signals, I know their Bluetooth circuity is working. I also reset the Bluetooth in the MacBook and removed all options in preferences to use a Bluetooth mouse or keyboard.
I ordered a VE Direct Smart Bluetooth Dongle to see if that helps any.
Am I missing something?
Freshly installed Redarc 1250D 50A charger and solar mppt charger. All seemed fine, i think... but today odd things happened. Watching the trends in the app I have noticed periodic amp > 0 (not voltage) dropouts every 2 min or so. With just a 170what solar panel they last for about 5 seconds and it starts back up as normal. When the engine is run and and I’m getting 50 amps to the leisure battery the dropouts are instant. Again, just amperage, voltage shows un effected. I have asked Redarc about this and they haven’t responded yet. Then today I was monitoring the trend and the amps AND volts went nuts spiking 13.6 volts and 45A to 13.35 volts and 8A or so.... multiple times a second for severial min and then in an instant back to a steady 50A and 13.65 volts. Nothing changed during this amperage “flutter“... I didn’t turn anything on or off.
Does anyone have a Redarc BCDC charger monitored with a Smartshunt? Does anything look familiar? I will post some photos...
First picture is normal solar only Input (clown day) with regular amperage dropouts, then I started the car and it spikes to 50A charging... you can see the regular amp drops...
Second picture is the weird “flutter” .. and then going back to regular 50A charging.
FYI... 300A Relion lifepo4 about half charged..
ich habe mir den Victron 500A/50mV - SmartShunt gekauft und möchte diesen in meinem Wohnmobil einsetzen.
Aktuell habe ich zwei Batterien parallel geschaltet, an denen der Verbraucher am negativen Pol einer Batterie und am positiven Pol der anderen Batterie angeschlossen ist.
Den Verbraucher habe ich einfach als BlackBox dargestellt.
Nun habe ich aus der beiliegenden Anleitung versucht den SmartShunt-Aufbau auf meine Gegebenheiten abzuleiten. So möchte ich die negative Leitung meines Verbrauchers an "Load Minus" anschließen und "Battery Minus" am Minuspol der Batterie. Da in diesem Fall wohl Bilder mehr als Worte sagen habe ich versucht das zu visualisieren:
Wäre mein Aufbau soweit richtig?
Gehe ich richtig mit der Annahme, dass dieser Aufbau beide Batterien misst, ich durch den parallelen Aufbau also quasi beide Batterien als eine Batterie interpretieren kann?
Beide Batterien sind auf 12v ausgelegt, sodass die Parallelschaltung diese 12v beibehält.
Vielen Dank im Voraus
Mit freundlichen Grüßen
I would like to track the state of charge of my Peak Power Pack, something which is sorely lacking (for the price I kind of expected something like this to be included, actually!). The difficulty is the different current paths, I have the charger connected, the car/solar connector is also connected, and of course the load is connected to the "mover" output. Can I tie all the "minus" connections together (charger, car/solar, load, and possibly even ve.direct ground), connect this to a smartshunt, and then connect the smartshunt to the PPP? In other words: the minus of the charger adapter, the car and the load are connected to the load side of the shunt, and the other side of the shunt is connected to the mover output minus of the PPP.
I keep getting a repeated disconnect and followed by an error that the shunt is connected to another device. This is a problem with the shunt as when this happens I cannot connect any device to it. I use the smart shunt to talk to an old android cellphone to use as my data monitor it works great but randomly it looses connection and won’t reconnect. Through my own debugging The only solution I’ve found is to crawl into my battery compartment and reboot the shunt by disconnecting it to power cycle it. This is the only answer I’ve found while searching the q&a. This has become quite annoying. Are there any other options?
I have a Multiplus II with both MPPT on the DC and a Fronius on the input. When first installed using the Ve.Direct cable to the Multi I noticed the smart shunt appeared in the remote console device list.
After disconnecting the batteries to rearrange them onto shelving I noticed a little spark when reconnecting the shunt positive lead to the battery. After looking at the remote console device list the shunt no longer appears in the list of devices.
If I plug the USB to Ve.Direct cable between the shunt and the Multi, I can see that the multi is using it again but it still doesn't show up in the device list.
Is there a way of enabling/disabling the devices shown in the device list or does the unit sound stuffed.
I'm going to install an IP65 charger to my system because ad the moment I can't recharge the battery from Orion, we are in lockdown. The question is, do I need to connect the positive to the Victron lithium battery and the negative to the smart shunt or both to the battery? In which order or doesn't matter? Unfortunately, I can't drop the car at the auto electrician's and my 12v knowledge is about zero and I'm desperate.
Have new BMV-712 that trying to connect to my iPhone. It does not connect, getting to around 60% and restarts attempt again.
Have tried "normal" BT linking through Victron Connect, have tried deleting from iPhones BT list and have tried accessing it via iPhone BT direct.
Are there known problems with iPhone connectivity.
Hi - I was wondering if someone might be able to help me understand the SOC reading and how its calculated. I have a 100Ah LiFePO4 battery. I believe I've set all the correct settings to reflect the battery type per the manual (See attached), but I'm not sure I understand the SOC number. If, I've used 73.7Ah of the 100Ah capacity, so that should be ~26% SOC. Looking at the documentation for my battery, a voltage reading of 13.0 is ~30% SOC. Is the shunt "smart" enough to tell from the voltage or other data that the battery might actually have a little more than 100Ah capacity (this is the first discharge cycle since initially charged, so there is no history to draw from). Any info or pointers on how the numbers are being calculated or what to expect over time would be greatly appreciated.
This is more of a question for the product developers - Can we add an option to reset smart shunt SOC to 100% when a connected MPPT charge controller enters the float stage? I know this wouldn't apply to all systems, but when all your devices are connected using VE Direct with a GX device (Cerbo in my case) all the information is there.
After working for many weeks, my SmartSunt vanished from the GX list of devices.
I can access it using Bluetooth but I lost it in the Remote console and VRM.
No more SOC graph and SOC value.
SmartShunt is connected with VEdirect cable to GX device inside EasySolar-II.
I am not sure if this is related to Error #11 shutdown I had a day before but at this point I assume anything is possible.
This was before:
This is now:
I'm about to install a site that is purely DC - no inverter. We will have these victron devices:
MPPT - 250/60
Smartshunt + temperature sensor
The relay output of the MPPT is already used to control LVD, protecting the batteries from deep discharge.
I'm looking for a way to control a FAN based on the cabinet temperature. It will be very hot in summer, and we do have temperature measurements via smartshunt. However, I can't find an option to control the Venus relay based on this parameter. Is this possible or am I missing something?
What would cause the Battery History widget not to show up as an option in the Advanced section of VRM when the battery monitor shows up fine? I see the history data in the remote console and in VictronConnect, but not in VRM.
[image]This is Phase I of an expansion into solar and a Victron Multiplus Inverter/Charger and MPPT Controller, but for now I have to take in stages because of cost. So here is my current situation.
I am expanding the Battery Capacity on my Sailboat. Data Points:
1. I am adding 4 Fullriver AGM 12 V 105Ah connected in parallel for a total of 420 Ah.
2. I am keeping the old batteries for now and connecting them in parallel to use as engine starter battery 2 Seal Lead Acid 12 V 100 AH. Keeping them in Parallel.
3. For the new House Bank, I am using a Victron SmartShunt to monitor Batteries.
4. I know that I can use the SmartShunt to also monitor voltage on the Engine Bank, but this means connecting the Negative side of engine battery bank to Load side of SmartShunt.
5. I am installing an IP22 Battery Charger (3) to charge the house bank as it has 30A capacity and this should be good to keep things moving for now.
Now the questions:
Can I use the IP22 to also charge the Engine Battery Bank? My concern is that both battery banks negatives are connected to the SmartShunt. Which to me seems this would be a problem.
I figure that if I do not use the SmartShunt to monitor the Engine Battery Bank then, I should be able to use the IP22 Charger to charge both battery banks.
Still using the SmartShunt to monitor both Battery Banks. So all Neg from batteries are connected
Could I connect both battery banks POS to a 1/2/Both/Off Battery Switch. Then connect the positive from the IP22 Battery Charger to the output of the Battery Switch and the Negative to the Shunt and charge both battery banks through one connection? Could I use this battery switch to control which battery bank takes the charge or charge both at the same time?
Thank you all for your assistance with this puzzle question.
I have a 3rd party inverter DC/AC and would like to keep using it since its not broken.
System will have Victron SmartSolar MPPT, Cerbo GX and SmartShunt, is there any way I can measure AC output of my 3rd party inverter and feed that back to VRM?
I have two Lithium batteries for my RV. Model: Lion Safari UT1300. What should I use for settings. I'm pretty clueless when it comes to electrical stuff. This is what it says on the product specification page:
I see that the Smart Shunt can send voltage and temperature information to the MPPT 100/20 charge controller, but can it send battery charge current that I can then use to set the "taper" setting on the charge controller? I have parasitic loads, so the charge controller would receive invalid charge current information using only its current output without using data from a shunt instead.
I recently bought and hooked up a Victron SmartShunt. It works like a dream on BlueTooth, and I thought this would be an accurate view of my battery state/usage.
For storage I have two Valence, 40ah RT Series 12v batteries hooked up in parallel. There is a substantial discrepancy in the voltage between my Klein voltmeter (MM300) and the Victron SmartShunt (500a) as follows:
I have measured for voltage drops across my various connections and there are none. I have calibrated the SmartShunt to 0.0 amps under zero load conditions. But these should not be implicated in any of the voltage discrepancies. I see it as a battle between the Voltmeter and the SmartShunt.
The only remote caveat might be the Epever MPPT connection. The MPPT battery minus is connected to the 'system minus' side of the shunt, and the battery plus goes to the 150a circuit breaker, which goes to the battery. The circuit breaker is closed. Yet, I do not see that as influencing the differing voltage between the two devices.
Has anybody else come across this issue? Does anyone have some wisdom on this matter?
I have purchase two Victron Products with the 500A shunt which has a black insulating mount, in both cases I've found that the mounting base is very fragile and brittle. The 500A shunt being a two 25mm brass blocks joined has significant mass, my latest unit had the mount cracked on delivery, while my first unit (BMV712) I managed to crack on installation when mounting.
The construction of the black base moulding has significantly hollowed out sections to reduce the amount of material but due to the brittle nature has no flexibility so cracks under any mechanical stress. As any cables or components which will be connected to the 500A shunt are also likely to be sizeable and heavy and the consequences of mechanical failure may be great, improving the mechanical strength and robustness of the base commiserate with the expected forces is highly desirable.
My repair consisted of filling the voids in the mounting with two-pack epoxy. This seems to add the required durability to the black base.
I'm sure I'm not the only customer which has experienced cracking issues with 500A shunt base. Please Victron could look into changing the design of the base to be substantially more robust than the current design and remove a point of failure would improve on an excellent product.
I think I need some help understanding why my SOC is not being set to 100%. I have 2x 120AH Lithium batteries installed in my camper. I have the SmartShunt settings as per below with the Battery capacity set at 240ah
I also have a Victron IP22 30A Charger installed.
The Charger is reporting the battery is in Storage phase and has been for almost a week. I also noticed today that it did it's weekly absorption cycle. The SmartShunt is reporting Voltage of 14.13 with a almost constant Current of -0.15A or -0.16A and power of constant -2W. The charger is reporting voltage of 13.89v and Current of 0.0A. I manually set the SOC to 100% last weekend when the charger went into storage mode. Given the current draw the Consumed AH is showing -25.1 Ah and the SOC is 92%.
From my understanding given the settings I have for the shunt the SOC should automatically set to 100% once the voltage is above 13.5, the tail current is less than 2% and this is condition is maintained 3 minutes. Am I wrong? What could be preventing this setting to 100%?
Hello everyone, I’m looking for some guidance on how best to configure my smartshunt. It has been physically installed correctly will all sources funnelling through it prior to the battery bank that is made up of two Lithium’s for a total of 540ah.
The problem I’m having is; the batteries are current at 85%, I know this through the BMS however the shunt is reporting 100%. Here are my settings, sure wish there was a way to post a screenshot
Battery capacity: 540 ah
Charge voltage: 13.4
Discharge floor: 10%
Tail current: 4%
Charged detection time: 3m
Peukert component: 1.05
Charge efficiency factor: 99%
Current threshold: 0.10 a
Time-to-go average period: 3m
Battery start synchronized is on
I’ll wait until the charger goes to float and the batteries are known to be 100% then I’ll manually synchronize. I’d hate to have to do this every time though.
Appreciate any assistance.
I'm building a new setup for a 24V system with Multiplus II for solar and wind. The battery system is flooded lead acid and I'm interested in monitoring the battery level and charge rate with a Cerbo GX. My question is about the following busbar setup I'm currently planning:
Left side: Lynx Power-In (4 IO slots)
1/ 24V battery system
Right side: Lynx Distributor (4 fused IO slots)
1/ Multiplus II 24V 3000VA
2/ Solar charge controller
3/ Wind charge controller
4/ Victron non-isolated DC-DC converter 24V->12V
It would be elegant to add a Lynx Shunt V.E. Can in the middle, but it would be quite expensive and the CNN-type fuse is crazy expensive. So my idea is to add a 500A SmartShunt between between lower negative bus and then a wire/plate between the upper positive bus. (On a side note, if the Distributor had 5 slots, I could only use that and put the shunt on the negative battery cable.)
Is there anything wrong with this setup for the intended purpose? Do I still need a separate fuse for the battery side?
New guy with a couple questions I couldn't find answers to. I have a temporary setup of two lithium batteries in a trailer tongue box. I'll be moving these into the trailer within a couple of months. I installed the SmartShunt and connected the two solar negative grounds to the system Minus pole on the shunt since it's not feasible with this setup to add busbars to it. I will be adding busbars once everything is moved inside. I also realize too many connections on a pole is not recommended. So that said...
Thanks for any help
I came home after a couple of weeks away and my smart shunt required an update due to updating the victron app on my phone. I am not sure if the update caused the problem (it could've failed prior to my return), but the voltage reading is very wrong ever since. at 27v I am seeing 21v, for instance. I pulled the hot lead from the unit and let it reset, verified the voltage on the wire is correct with a DMM, which matches the reading on the charge controller, and after cleaning everything up and getting it all back together the voltage is still a half to full volt lower on the smart shunt than reality.
Is there a way to revert to the older firmware on the smart shunt to rule that out or anything else that I can check or do?
edit: I added a second wire to the 'starter battery' port, swapped wires, etc. The second port indicates the proper voltage consistently, the main port wanders all over the place low and high, regardless of which wire I use in which port. I think it's just toast. Initiating warranty claim.