My Orion Tr Smart 12/12-30 Charger runs hot, and the output current folds back considerably. Anyone else with this problem? When cold, it will output 33A. When hot, it will fold back to 26A or less. Parts of the case may exceed 134dg F, in a cool (60dg F) environment. By adding a 80CFM fan above the fins, the case temperature is lowered by 20 degrees F, and the unit will continuosly output 30A. It would appear that the heat sink is undersized. Comments?
I would like to charge my minnkota batteries 2 x 12v 100ah Lifepo4 on my boat
Now i have one start baterrie and two service batteries, they are charged over a solar panell and the engine altenator.
So now i would like to add a 1 - 0 - 2 switch and a orion tr or maybe something else.
Switch position 1, no charging, battery use for minn kota at 24v ( connected serial )
Switch position 0, no connection to the batteries
Switch position 2, batteries are now 2 x 12v connection parallel for charging them
do i need for each batterie a orion tr device, or i can use a orion tr device + agrodiod with two outputs
the baterries need to be charged to the same level
I am considering replacing a Balmar DuoCharge with a Orion TR Smart 12/12-30. The DuoCharge after 2 years of good operation is now frequently blowing fuses on the output lead and I can not identify the cause. Balmar says the DuoCharge will try to satisfy any current demand even though the device has a 30A overload protection circuit.
Here is my setup ...
It appears that the fuses only blow when the main engine is running - and not every time though - but not when the the charger is running. I've tried capturing the current from the DuoCharge with a recording clamp on amp meter but the sampling rate is one reading per second, so I can miss a transient spike. the steady state flow was in the 6-8A range.
So my question about the Orion TR Smart is whether the device will be damaged if the aux battery is depleted and would accept 50A or 70A for charging or if the bow thruster was engaged while the engine is running? Is the current limited to 30A on this model?
Also if you have a theory about the DuoCharge behavior, I'd be interested.
The starter battery negative terminal is connected to my van's chassis (as per usual) and my leisure battery negative terminal is connected to the chassis via a 20mm2 wire. I have just ordered an Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-18 Isolated DC/DC Charger; I didn't need the isolated version as my batteries are already bonded via the chassis but it was cheaper than the 30A non-isolated version. I will connect the starter and leisure batterie's positive terminals to the Orion-Tr via 20mm2 wire.
My question is, given that the two batteries negative terminals are already connected via 20mm2 wire and the vehicle chassis, can I connect the negative input and output of the Orion-Tr to the chassis/battery negative with thinner wire (say 6mm2 or even 2.5mm2)?
From my limited understanding of electrics, I would think that the Orion-Tr just needs the negative wire to be able to power itself and sense the voltage of the two batteries and the current path will be through the vehicle chassis as that will be lower resistance.
I have attached a Wiring Diagram.jpg for clarity.
Orion-Tr Smart 24/12-20A (240W) Isolated DC-DC converter: External Fuses
I am confused about external fuses required in a system with the above device.
The spec shows 25Amp maximum current under nominal operating voltage and 50Amp short circuit on the 12V output channel.
But the fuse advice in the manual is for 30 amps on the 24V channel and 60 amps on the 12V channel - surely these are too high?
I am specifying the integration of this component and am looking at advising 25Amp (24 volt channel) and 50Amp (12 volt channel)
Any confirmation would be appreciated.
I have a ford transit custom van with a euro 6 engine/ smart alternator. I want the orion to start charging my leisure batteries automatically once the engine is running and to stop once the engine is turned off. What settings will I need to set? I have three 100AH lithium Batteries.
I am installing an Orion-Tr smart 12/12-18 between a Start lead battery and Lithium battery to charge my Lithium in controlled way when the motor and generator is running.
Looking at the install instructions, the ground is connected only via the Orion.
I also have a BMV-702 monitor and to be able to get the voltage from Start battery correct I need to connect the Load shunt side to the Start battery minus. This result in shortcutting the Orion ground pins and I wonder if that is OK? See below image where the dashed connection marked with a “?” is my question if that is ok to connect.
Hi, thanks for looking at this. I have a boat with 2 x 6 cylinder diesel engines. I believe the alternators are around 40A each. I have a bank of 2 110Ah lead acid batteries. I'm thinking of getting 2 Orion-Tr Smart isolated 12/12-18A units, one for each engine and then have the outputs both going to the battery bank in parallel. Will they work okay together like this or is there anything else I need to consider? Cheers.
I have installed two Orion smart DC/DC chargers for my catamaran port and starboard engines. It seems that one engine on its own is doing up to 30 A but two engine it does not do up to 60 A just 30 A or lower. Is there a setting I muit alter to make it work in parallel?
Looking for ideas to troubleshoot my alternator charging setup. I replaced a ML-ACR from the AGM setup with 2 Orion Tr Smart 12/12 30a in parallel with the new BattleBorn Lithium batteries.
I took the easy way out and re-used the 2/0 wire run by the original up-fitter from the Transits main terminal back to the power cabinet (10-12' run). There I am using a small busbar to split off 2 50a fused 6awg input wires to each Orion Tr Smart 12/12 30a. Then from the Orions I go to the main busbar.
The Orions will charge for 10mins in Bulk, then flip over to Absorption and not provide any incoming charge. After 10mins the units will sometimes begin charging again while still showing Absorption even though the SOC is at 50%. When the units do begin a new charge cycling on their own, it follows a 5min on, 5min off pattern.
If I remove the jumpers to power the devices off/on, I will get another 10min of bulk charging before it again cycles to Absorption and no charge.
I see input voltages in the 13.8-14.2 range during all this. I have disabled one of the 2 units and see the same behavior, just half the charge amps. I have also turned off the Smart Solar MPPT controller so only one charge source is contributing. My only 2 thoughts are to try and connect via the Ford Customer Connect Point vs direct wire to vans system and/or wire the Orion output directly to the battery incase there is something at the busbar contributing to the issue.
Bonjour à toutes et tous,
J’ai besoin de votre avis sur l’alimentation en 12V d’un EBL 119. EBL est un bloc électrique qui équipe la plupart des Camping-Cars.
Mon intention est de retirer complètement la batterie de service équipée de base (AGM) et sa connexion à l’EBL et de m’équiper en Lithium 2x 200Ah.
L’EBL n’étant pas conçu pour le Lithium, je m’équipe totalement différemment et le tout en Victron.
Mais je souhaite quand même garder l’EBL qui gère les alimentations 12V du CC, pompe, chauffage,etc…
D’où ma question :
Est-il correct d’alimenter l’EBL (sans batterie de service donc) par son entrée chargeur +/- qui autorise une alimentation en 18A et câblé en 16mm2, ceci serait possible grâce au Chargeur Orion-Tr Smart isolé 12/12-18 depuis le parc Lithium ?
Ou est-ce un autre chargeur ?
Si ceci est correct, est-il judicieux d’installer un BatteryProtect pour éviter le retour ou pas nécessaire ?
Merci beaucoup de vos lumières
I had a Orion Smart installed on my Campervan to charge a Smart Lithium 12V/160Ah battery. My basic vehicle is a 2020 Fiat Ducato with an 'intelligent' alternator. When driving with a constant speed the Orion did not start charging as the input voltage was quite stable at 12.2V and thus constantly below the start voltage of 14V. I then changed the settings so that the Orion will start charging at around 12V input voltage and it did. BUT as soon as the output voltage stabilizes the input voltage drops to around 10.2V, the Orion cuts off, input voltages raises, Orion starts, input drops and so on.
What can be the cause of this? Is there something I can check? I would be really happy if someone had an idea how to correct this!
Thanks a lot, Michael
My Orion TR 30-30 non-isolated did not load the batteries during my last drive. After investigating the issue I found that apparently the firmware was stuck/ crashed. The input voltage was displayed as being 12,4V while it actually was 12,7V.
Resetting the setting to factory defaults did not solve the problem. I had to disconnect input and output for a few minutes until Bluetooth connection was no longer possible. Then it worked again and is also charging again
Did anyone have this issue as well? Is there a way to fix it except physically disconnecting the ports?
I installed an Orion TR Smart 12/12 30 Non Isolated DC/DC charger in March in my Motorhome, at the time it seemed to work ok
Moved the motorome 1 week ago (end of June) and the engine started fine, the engine battery was OK
Went to move the motorhome today and the engine battery was flat, despite having a tricke charger between my leisure battery and the engine battery (to keep the engine battery topped up from my solar panels)
Noticed by change that the Orion was turning itself on and off, therefore draining the battery even though the ignition signal was off.
Wondering if I have correctly installed it or if there is a fault?
Looking at the handbook it seems to show the D+ or ignition wire going to both terminals of the Remote / on/off circuit as shown below
I therefore left the link in place between L + H is this correct?
Or should the D+ ignition feed go to terminal H wihtout a link?
What I'm looking to achieve is a set up with only activates the charger when the D+ signal is live (ignition is switched on)
Would appreciate any suggestions.
I'm looking for some help determining the correct size/amperage for a DC-DC charger. I have 200 Ah of LiFePO. I might add 100Ah in the future. 2021 Tiffin Wayfayer on a 2020 Mercedes Benz 3500 chassis. My main concern is to not over work or over heat the alternator. What size charger should I be looking at? Thanks.
Hi. I’m hoping to use the Orion TR Smart with the Smart Battery Sense.
Currently it shows these are not compatible with each other.
Will this be fixed with a software update? Or is this a hardware issue?
I’m considering the Orion-tr smart dc-dc charger for my campervan to charge the leisure batteries from the alternator, but would also like to charge the vehicle battery. Is there any product that can charge both ways, ie charge the leisure batteries from the alternator, and also charge the vehicle battery from the solar charger/shore power?
Is it ok to connect GND on the Orion directly to the negative/ground terminal on my leisure battery? The negative terminal on the leisure battery is connected to the aluminium chassis (camper van), same with the starter battery. So the Orion, the leisure battery and the starter battery will all share a common ground, I just want to double check if there is any problem with having the Orion connect to ground via the negative terminal on the leisure battery, as opposed to having it's own negative connection directly to the chassis?
I have two questions regarding wiring of the Orion TR Smart Isolated remote cable. I want to connect the Orion TR Isolated DC-DC charger towards the VE Bus BMS (black and Yellow cable). Can I connect the black ground cable towards the VE-BUS battery - (while grounding of the VE-BUS BMS is arranged via the VE-BUS RJ45 cable, a grounding loop should be avoided?). Question 2: There is no picture of the VE-BUS BMS where to wire the yellow cable (only the mini BMS is shown), I presume that I should connect towards the Charge disconnect (mentioned in the standard picture is "Charger" on the mini-BMS)?
Orion DC DC and Smart Solar do not work well together. The proposed ‘fixes’ to change the settings so one takes priority is substandard bodge. When will Victron issue a fix so they can speak to each other and work properly together?
Looking for a safe option to charge my new BattleBorn 100 Ah 12V LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery...
I have a small boat with a 15A alternator and a Marine deep cycle starting battery.
Here are the motor specs, in case you need them.
56 Amps Total / 15 Amps Net Dedicated
I have been looking at the Orion TR-SMART 12/12 family and wondering if I can use the 18A unit despite my alternator output being just 15A... or is the 9A version a safer choice?
Obviously I want to get as much charge as I can, but also want to be sure both the alternator (Stator) and the LiFePO4 battery are not harmed in the process.
I have a Orion Smart 12/12V-30A Isolated DC to DC connected to my system from my tow vehicle which has 2 batteries and a 220A alternator into a 400ah LION Battery bank. I am also running a Smart Solar MPPT100/50, with 800W of Solar (feeding down at 24V). Also in the system are 2 Victron 3000 Inverters and a BMV 712 Smart Battery monitor. .
While doing some testing, driving down the road and turning on the A/C it seems that the DC to DC is not helping with the Charging and is remaining in “Float” while the MPPT is in “Bulk”.
I am not sure all of the settings are correct… Any help is greatly appreciated.
Yesterday I had the converter/charger in my RV changed to something that is Lithium battery compatible and verified that the Orion Tr-Smart DC-DC Charger (12/12/30 Isolated) was working on the drive back home. I did that by checking the SmartShunt app and verified that the battery was charging at about the 30 amps I expected from the 12/12/30.
This morning I found I could not connect my smartphone to the Charger. It did not tell me my PIN was wrong, it just would not connect and a screen came up giving me options, including rebooting the phone and watching a video on how to change the PIN. Rebooting the phone did not work and I can not find any video about changing the PIN from an established PIN to a new one on either YouTube or on the Victron webpage. There are tons of videos on YouTube about installing the charger but I saw nothing about changing an established PIN, and the search on the Victron webpage brought up 20,000 hits and I did not think it was worth the trouble to go through more than the first couple of pages.
Can anyone tell me how to change an established PIN? Or point me to the video Victron referenced? Or give me any ideas about how to proceed? I suspect that the charger is working but I want to make sure it is using the proper profile and I can't do that without connecting to it. I also thought about removing the app and reinstalling it but I don't know fi that would do any good.
Planning an install on my boat with some Victron Lithium Superpacks and a Multi Plus. The batteries would primarily get charged with shore power or generator going into the Multi (the transfer happens at a switch panel before the multi). I'm good with those parts. Where I get a little fuzzy is on the alternator. While I'm underway I would like to get at least some charge out of the alternator. It would be charging both the Superpacks and an AGM engine battery. Right now they are connected to the alternator through a fairly old isolator. I've looked into the Balmar regulators to do the voltage regulation on the alternator. Very slick but I would love to avoid installing one if possible. Would it work to put a buck-boost or Orion between the alternator output from the isolator and the Superpacks and let that handle the voltage regulation? From the Victron documentation it seems like that would work but what I don't know is what happens when the multi starts charging at the same time and if this is a problem (connected to shore power or running the generator while the engine is running). I could have the multi trigger the buck boost to disconnect using the relay contacts but would that trigger a load dump on the alternator? Or is that not an issue since the AGM battery would still be connected. Open to any thoughts or if I need to go another direction with this.
I am considering a cerbo gx and touch setup for my vehicle. I can't see anything in the documentation about using it with the Orion dc-dc chargers. Are they compatible? And will the cerbo gx monitor them.
Hi All, I have a camper that runs solar on the roof, and via a Smart DC DC Orion 24/24 - 17 charger in my truck camper. Currently these are not networked as I am driving along which does cause them to sometimes be in different charging states.
Posts on here have asked the question but have not been updated recently - when will the Orion DC DC chargers join the Victron Networked family?
I am very keen to have all devices working on the same charging algorithm. Is there a workaround with the Victron Dongle?
Does anyone know when these will be networkable?
Hey there, as I commented on the blog post,
"I'm curious if future versions will have VE.Direct or some sort of integration like that with GX devices? Currently, it seems that the MPPT and MultiPlus are able to coordinate their total charge rate with external BMS via the GX devices. But it seems that the Orion-Tr does not participate in this?"
I'm wondering if there's a way to integrate the Orion-Tr Smart chargers with the CCGX. In particular, as far as I understand, GX devices can coordinate with external BMS via CANBus to determine the charging parameters of a battery. It seems that the Victron MPPT and Victron MultiPlus can respect these limits via VE.Direct and VE.Bus respectively, which is great and a big reason why I bought this BMS and the suite of Victron product.
Now I'm considering purchasing Orion-Tr Smart chargers, however I noticed that they don't have any VE.Direct connectivity, or any other VE connectivity aside from the Bluetooth one. Is something like VE.Direct, VE.Bus or VE.Can planned? Will Orion-Tr Smart chargers integrate with GX devices?