I can't seem to find much information on the "buffer-charge a battery" feature. I'm assuming I can place a small Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) battery in parallel with the output + and common - and it can handle surge loads.
My question is, can I place a small 12v 20 AMP Hour battery to this? I'm guessing at a voltage setting of 13.2, it won't quickly charge the battery beyond it's 20% suggested limit. Any references to other materials regarding this would be helpful as I can't seem to find much. Thanks.
Hi, I have an Isolated Orion Tr Smart on my van and currently running a long positive 6awg wire from rear of the van to the alternator battery. Is it ok to ground both input and output to my chassis ground on the back of the van to prevent running a long negative wire to the front?
I have have a Victron Phoenix Smart IP43 (24v / 3 outlet) charger and wondered if I could connect an Orion 24/12-20 converter to one of the 3 x 24v outlets on the IP43 so that I could charge a 12v battery ? If so, would all of the smart charging features of the IP43 still be available ?
I want to have a common DC bus for powering a system. We already have a battery bank that has been working for a couple years and we are adding a new battery bank for expansion. Can I include an Isolated Orion DC-DC at each battery bank prior to the Bus to couple all the loads in one bus?
My apologies for the basic level of these questions!
I have a project in mind and I really need help because I don't want to make mistakes.
The project is to using solar panels to power water pumps to provide water (from a stream) to my crops.
So, I planned to buy:
- 6 solar panels of 300-350w each
- 6 water pumps of 240w (CC 24v / 10a or 12v / 20a) each
My wishes :
- Ideally, each panel feeds and controls its own water pump.
- No need for storage / battery
- Remote control management
- MPPT system to optimize performance
- But most importantly: I want to have a regenerative system in case the water pumps are not needed or when the solar panel delivers more power than necessary.
What are the equipment needed for this installation?
Thank you in advance for any help!
I have a 24V circuit charging a 12V battery which works fine. But If I isolate the 24V circuit power supply, the input side of the Orion (and the rest of the 24V circuit) becomes powered from the 12V battery. The 24V and 12V circuits have a common ground.
Is this behaviour normal? How do I prevent it?
I have a VW Caddy van that I’m converting to a camper. It’s a modern one with a silly euro 6 alternator and some I’m on the understanding that I need an Orion Smart DC to DC charger, specifically the Smart one to charge my Victron AGM battery (in time this may become a lithium).
If I’m planing on using the chassis as a ground for both the starter battery and the leisure battery combined, do I need the isolation?
Orion-Tr Smart 24/12-20A (240W) Isolated DC-DC converter: External Fuses
I am confused about external fuses required in a system with the above device.
The spec shows 25Amp maximum current under nominal operating voltage and 50Amp short circuit on the 12V output channel.
But the fuse advice in the manual is for 30 amps on the 24V channel and 60 amps on the 12V channel - surely these are too high?
I am specifying the integration of this component and am looking at advising 25Amp (24 volt channel) and 50Amp (12 volt channel)
Any confirmation would be appreciated.
This is the situation: I have a 300A lifepo4house battery in my van. No solar (maybe later on), and I want to charge the house battery through my alternator using the Orion 12/12 30A converter. Not as easy and userfriendly as the smart-version, but it should work.
now I have two options:
- setting the adjustable voltage to 13,6V and connect the Orion via the remote on the starting system. So the Orion will always charge when the engine is on.
-setting the voltage to around 14.3V and install a manual switch. So that I get to choose to charge only on long drives and turn it off when the battery is full.
I’m leaning to option 2. I know that in theory a lifepo4 is better left at 60 to 80% for longer lifespan. Most of the time it will be. But we plan to travel a year with the following scheme: drive, park somewhere for several days/week, drive a loooong stretch, park again...because we have no solar it would allow me to charge the battery full in between parking spots and then use it without worry.
Are there any thoughts on my thinking proces?
When will Victron open up the Bluetooth so the CCGX can see the Orion Dc to Dc converters with built in Bluetooth and integrate them into the system?
As we have installed systems with CCGX and Orion Dc to Dc with Bluetooth and they cant be seen only by the app and not by the CCGX units?
I have the following situation: I made a camper with a new housebattery, 300A lithium. I wanted to charge it with the engine of the car, so I bought the victron orion-TR 12/12 30A (360W isolated). I connected the car battery with the orion but it does not seem to work. Have I bought the wrong product? Or am I missing something?
So Ive installed 2 Orion 12/24 -20 in parallel to charge my Tesla battery pack to 24v from the 12v engine/battery. I expected to get a combined charging of around 50-60amp.. but my breakers pop after 2sec and the amperage is clearly way way higher..
I went on to just test one and the input amps are 108.5 while out is something like 50amps from the 20amp rated unit.. I don't understand why, shouldn't the unit be limited to 30amps max?
Unfortunately the orion 24/48 doesn't come with a smart functionality, is there a good alternative/aftermarket for engine running detection?
Application: LMTV Camper
I was planning to fit a Orion TR DC-DC Converter between the Leisure Battery bank and the fuse panel, so that everything gets a regulated 12.2v.
But I'm concerned over the quoted 87% efficiency of the converter. Is it as simple as it appears, and I would effectively lose 13% of my battery capacity, or are there other factors to consider?
I just bought an Orion TR DC-DC charger isolated with 9amps to charge the lithium batteries of my trailer using my tow vehicle.
Is it possible to use the same negative/ground for input and output? My tow vehicles ground runs to a ground bar in the electric box of the trailer and is therefore shared anyways between tow vehicle and trailer.
Also, what would be the best output voltage to charge lithium batteries?
Can Victron supply any information (graphs or tables) on part-load efficiency, and load and line regulation for this device?
Also is the internal (non-replacable) fuse a self-resetting type?
This is the equipment I have:
Lynx Power In, Lynx Shunt, Lynx Distributor
48v 230Ah LA Battery Bank
Multiplus II 48/5000/70-50
Smart Solar 250/100
(including the full list as I dont know what is relevant)
batteries -> powerin -> shunt -> distributor -> orion
When load increases on the orion, the DC Power value on the Cerbo goes negative and and the dots show power going INTO the batteries instead of out of the batteries.
I have 'Has DC System' enabled in the cerbo.
Is my setup correct, or should the orion be connected before the shunt (this would seem counter intuitive as the shunt would no longer be able to monitor SOC.
I am trying to get the DC Power box to indicate the load drawn by the Orion.
PS where do you get the pictures of the Victron gear for the wiring diagrams i see posted up in other questions?
I have a couple of Orion-Tr 12/12-9 isolated DC-DC converters on my boat that I would like to control remotely using electronics. To do this, it would be nice to know a bit more about how the remote control works. There are basically two wires that need to be connected on the device. This could of course be done with relays, but I prefer using transistors since they use less power and are more reliable. From the manual, it is clear that I need to manipulate the right hand wire.
The question is: To turn the device on, do I need to pull the voltage up or down on the wire? (probably up) If I need to pull it up, is 5 V enough or does it need to be pulled up to 12 V?
Unfortunately, I am not near my boat right now, so cannot do any experiments on this.
I have a 24v system in my Fifth Wheel RV. I have my DC loads connected through a BatteryProtect. One of these DC loads is an Orion-Tr 24/12-9 which I use as a maintainer on a lawn mower battery. This small battery is used purely for cranking my Onan generator as well as the uninterruptible 12v DC power source for my trailer brakes if the break-away is pulled.
My challenge is that the break-away is wired such that it draws power from the battery directly in parallel to 12v being provided by the 7-pin trailer harness on my truck. When I have my truck connected, it will provide 12v power to the battery and my question is will this also feed back through the Orion-Tr and try to go back through the BatteryProtect. I am aware the BatteryProtects should only be used in one direction so I want to understand am I putting my system at risk with this configuration or does the Orion-Tr prevent the backfeeding of power from the truck towards the 24v battery bank.
I can simply pull the associated fuse in my truck to not power that pin in the harness but want to know if this is in fact needed or not.
I have a Smart Battery Protect 12/24 100A being used as part of a lithium system with a VE.Bus BMS and an Orion 24/12- 70. Basically, I am using the Smart Battery Protect in Li-ion mode which is controlled by the load disconnect on the VE.Bus BMS, this circuit is the supply for the DC House panel.
The problem I am having is that there is an intermittent fault where the Smart Battery Protect gets stuck on “Attempting to activate” (in Victron connect) and causes the RV interior lights to constantly flash on and off. Occasionally after being stuck on “Attempting to activate” for a while, it will display an E1- Short circuit error (both on the unit and in Victron connect); however, I am 100% certain that there is no short circuit. Sometimes it will work fine for hours, and then if the breaker for the house panel is switched on and off it will then get stuck in this fault and it is nearly impossible to get it working again.
So far, we have tried a second DC-DC Converter, a second working battery protect and are still getting the same fault. The cable runs to the input and from the output of the battery protect are appropriately sized, and the BMS is in the same compartment so the ground wire and the load disconnect to Remote H on the battery protect are only approximately 0.5m. We have since discovered that we can trick the battery protect into working every time it gets stuck in this fault by briefly touching a 24V supply on the output of the battery protect.
Has anyone experienced this problem before and discovered a solution?
I want to charge a 140 Wh gel battery with an Orion 24-12/25A from a 24V system. Would direct be OK or should I use a MPPT charger in between to regulate? What voltage is best to set the Orion to? Anything else I should consider? Thanks
I couldn't find a direct answer, most people seam to be using Orion's to charge batteries.
I'm helping a friend with the electrical system in his caravan. The caravan has a 24V battery bank and inverter, but there are a couple of 12V consumers like lights, fridge and radio.
Will the Orion 24/12-25A non isolated be the correct DC-DC to use to run the 12V consumers in the caravan or should a isolated one be used?
For now I think 25A will be a good size to start with, but we can always add a second one in parallel should it be needed at a later stage.
Also, if this is the correct Orion, is it recommended to place a big fuse on the 12V output side and if so what size of fuse? Each of the 12V devices lights, fridge etc will also have its own inline fuse.
Without getting bogged down in the “Why?”, is it feasible to use a smaller battery, say 50Ah to top up a larger 125Ah battery with an Orion, without the smaller being connected to a charging source? I understand there will be inefficiency, but would there be any other problems?
And which Orions would be suitable?
I am just finalising my options for a campervan setup and am unsure whether to go with 12v or 24v.
2 x solar panels 270watts each, alternator charging through a dc-dc charge controller and a standard shoreline connection.
In consumption all the normal mod cons are specced: fridge, water pumps, lighting etc. The only concern is running an induction cooktop through an inverter, no gas is a big design criteria on this build!
The base vehicle is 12v so it would be simpler and more cost efficient to have a 12v leisure battery but I am wandering if it would be worth going up to 24v on all the habitation batteries and consumers to achieve a greater efficiency whilst inverting to 230v for the induction. Does anyone have any experience with induction. I am planning to use standard agm batteries for the short term until funds allow a lithium upgrade.
It's good to see the Orion Smart series officially announced on the blog today:
But while it's usually shown set up to use input from a vehicle start battery to charge an auxiliary bank, I want to do the reverse. In my case there would be two alternators on the same 450hp boat diesel feeding a 440ah Firefly AGM 12v house bank with the Orion Smart 12/12-30 supplying the smaller Dekka AGM 12v starting bank. That way I'd get more use from the alternators, plus alternator redundancy, and the system would be ready if I ever switch the house bank up to Lithium-Ion.
Am I thinking straight?
PS The boat already has BMV712/Smart Solar/Venus system that I greatly appreciate:
How will Orion eventually integrate with the family?
In the demo section of the Victron connect app I have found an Orion Smart. This is exactly what I have been looking for. And keep my fingers crossed its not to expensive.
Anyone that know anything about a launch or price?
We are currently working on our van build (VW Crafter 2012) and came across an issue we can’t seem to figure out:
Thank in advance for helping us.
I'm looking into buying a DC-DC charger for my truck camper, but I'm unsure which one. Here are the details of my setup:
- Truck: 6.5L diesel engine with 100A alternator, 2 AGM starter batteries (12V parallel)
- Camper: 200Ah LiFePO4 batteries, 8AWG wiring on the DC input
- Alternator outputs around 13.5V, LiFePO4 batteries need around 14.5V (i.e. stepping up the voltage is a must)
Based on those details, it seems like the Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-30 would fit the bill, but I'm concerned about the following:
1. Does the Orion-Tr Smart require a remote connection to operate, or can it switch on and off based on input voltage reading alone? I'm going to install the charger on the camper, so I won't have access to the ignition switch, so the only way to determine if the motor is running is by measuring the input voltage - can the Orion-Tr Smart do that?
2. Is 30A reasonable for 8AWG wiring with a 100A alternator? It seems to me like it would be OK, but the charger will be far from the alternator (probably around 5-10m of wire).
3. Is the Orion-Tr Smart the most cost-effective solution for my use case? Another option is the Orion-Tr (without the smart part), but I'm not sure if it can handle LiFePO4 charging.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me with this!
I see in the manual for my Orions that up to 5 units can be wired in parallel. I'd like to put two units (70 amps each) in parallel. Can someone look at my wiring plan and let me know if this is correct? Thanks for the help!