I have a 24/3000/70 Inverter/Charger. My battery bank is consisting of 9 SPRE 12 225 Trojan batteries that are connected in three strings of 24-Volts. The battery maximum charging current specified by the battery manufacturer is 13% of C24, which is a little more than 26 amps for my batteries. My question is, considering the three parallel strings, can I/should I set the charging current up to three times the prescribed charging current if the inverter or the size of the input wires and upstream devices support it. I am aware that this inverter is rated for 70 amp.
The next question is, how do I manually put the device into equalization mode? And what would be the consequences of the setting discussed above over this procedure?
Thanks in advance.
Is there any chance of getting a 120V version of the 500VA - 1600VA Multiplus? I have the inverter only version of this and it's perfect form factor with a separate charger.
Hello Smart folks,
Hoping I can get some thoughts/assistance if anyone wouldn't mind verifying what I am thinking isn't nutty...? I am only showing the AC side diagram I created as that is where most of my questions come into play.
Currently I have a stock RV 2021 Forest River GT7 36K7. I have purchased a dozen solar panels a Victron 150/100 charge controller and a single 3000 Multiplus. I want to be able to run everything (should I chose to go this route) as I would today off of the battery power even if it is just for a short time. I have 6 105ah Lion Energy ut1300's which I know wouldn't run all of this for very long, but want the flexibility to be able to if I wanted for even an hour.... My question is based on the below drawing, will this accomplish the goal of that?
What I want to be able to do:
1.) On 50 amp shore power run everything as I can today.
2.) On 30 amp or less shore power run everything from the AC panels with the shore power and the power assist kicking in for the additional required power.
3.) If I so choose try to run anything (or everything) off of battery only power (even if it is only for a short period).
4.) The Victron Cerbo Touch Screen Energy Control GX System w/Color Display that I ordered to be able to monitor my single 150/100-tr Victron charge controller, and my two multiplus inverters, along with my lynx distributer (future I heard it can send info back to the gx, but not current).
In the setup below if the above 4 are covered, is that considered parallel or split phase? I am not an electrician (obviously lol) but I am reading and trying to comprehend as much as possible, I get hung up on things I don't fully understand in some of the other threads on similar topics such as setting these up in parallel vs split phase ect. Since I don't fully understand the terminology and what each fully mean, I have a hard time telling if the below is true split phase or actually what this would be considered?
In the thread here there are 3 options presented. Which I admit I don't fully understand and maybe I should present my questions on that thread for that side, but didn't want to hijack his thread and it is a year or so old, so not sure how much it is being followed. Does the below diagram fall into this category [3}?
 You can run them in a split-phase pair. There are two advantages of this approach compared to stacking. First, your two units are wired to each phase when on a 240V supply, so you have access to the full 12kW at the pole, subject to the internal limits of your MultiPluses. (They won't be able to charge that much, for example.) Second, if you have a single phase supply (120V 30A, 20A, 15A), you can feed it to one side and the other side will reject incoming and stay in inverter mode. You will have seamless load support on both legs, but you will be going through the battery for the second leg. A consequence of this setup is that if you have a large 120V generator, you may not be able to fully utilize it, because it can only feed one of your two units.
Finally, the above bold/underlined statement makes me feel I would not be setting this up with option 3 via the below diagram? Mainly because I see my diagram below representing these operating as individual units each controlling a phase (or leg) of the load and then the phases remaining separated as individual legs, and I assume the AC panel in my drawing keeps each phase individual (ie one 50 amp leg operates 1 side of the panel, the other operates the other side of the panel).
Please be kind, I am not masquerading as if I know this stuff I am only trying to learn and apply what I have learned to my situation. I am a DIYer and don't want to higher someone because I find this stuff really fun, but I also don't want to do something terribly wrong... The hand drawn diagram (that says CURRENT in left column) is how the current RV is wired from the factory (other than the batteries which I replaced the stock ones day one).
Please let me know if there is a better way to accomplish this, I also have drawn up a diagram to try to do this same thing with a "Smart Phase Selector" and a single inverter (since I only have an order in for 1 right now). But then the wife sprung on me "I want to be able to run other things besides what is on the small subpanel from battery if your going to be spending this type of money". So I will ultimately either do what I have suggested below (if you guys agree it will work and fulfill the needs.
My options as I see them now:
1.) The diagram in color (pending your review as to if that will work, and covers my needs) Most expensive as it requires me to buy another inverter. Or any recommendations you guys give me to adjust this setup.
2.) The hand diagram below that says "Smart Phase Selector" in left column which is the second most expensive, and you can't find the "Smart Phase Selector" anywhere in stock. More info on this item: https://amsolar.com/rv-inverter-accessories/50-tsfmb1
3.) The third and least expensive option is to use one of these https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Universal-Changeover-SZW26-63-Position/dp/B01IZ5ZFYC/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=B01IZ5ZFYC&qid=1614029317&sr=8-1. This is the drawing that is had drawn with Future #2 on the left side. The Pin out wiring is on the same drawing with the circle numbers for the switch representing each position and how I think I would have to wire it to make it work. Position 1 of the switch for 50 amp Shore Power. Position 2 for all other single phase connection or Inverter for entire RV. I would use position 2 when connected To 15 amp 20 amp or 30 amp.
Do I gain much on via option 1 to option 3 for the price difference? ect.
Thank you all in advance, and if you made it this far, I hope to hear back :)
One of our Multiplus 24/5000 Inverters has 116v on the Neutral AC output. This is without anything connected to the AC input and without anything connected to the AC Output so it is coming from the Inverter, I spoke to the suppliers who said that as long as the Inverter works OK then that is alright.
I don't agree that this should be left as clearly something is wrong with this Inverter and should be repaired, I would be interested in comments from Victron if they agree that it should be sent back for repair?
Is it possible two use two Multiplus in a three phase system with a seperate battery bank for each Multiplus.
Each battery bank has its own BMS. And should be charged/discharged by its Multiplus individually.
I already have one Multiplus running in a solar setup with ESS and three phase energy meter on the grid. The Multiplus is connected to the Venus GX. It's connected to the first phase on the grid side.
Now I want to add another Multiplus with its own battery bank to have more capacity and redundancy. This shall be connected to the second grid phase.
Can I setup both Multis individually? Will the ESS take into account the two Multis for calculation of phase compensations?
I’d like to be able to utilize 100 amps of power (50 on each leg) when plugged into 50 amp service. 1 leg will feed through multiplus and power half the panel. The other leg will feed directly to other half of panel. Can I simply splice off of neutral and ground coming into RV from 50 amp service and route 1 neutral/ground pair to multiplus with line 1, and the other neutral/ground pair to panel with line 2? Thanks!
we are using a Multiplus 2. In our case it should only invert the power from the battery and take power from the grid, if necessary. It is main task is not to load the Battery! In order to load the battery, we use a PV. I could not find anything about turning off the Load function. Please help
I have an existing application which 'talks' to a Multiplus Compact inverter through an MK2 interface. I now wish to connect up Pylontech batteries UP2500. This requires connection of a Venus GX to the same VE Bus that hte MK2 currently uses.
I noticed from the documentation that the VE Bus is an RS485 bus capable of daisy chaining. Also, the devices on the VE Bus are addressable. Is it possible to connect both the MK2 and the Venus GX to the VE Bus of the Multiplus Compact at the same time?
Thanks in advance
My battery voltage was 25.25v when the battery capacity was 70%, I also tested it with multimeter.
The screenshots of the battery monitor are here
hello and good morning,
my first Q on this forum!
have a system with a BMV700, a MPPT 100/30, 600W solar and 4XT105RE Τrojans and a 8KW diesel generator all working fine on a motorboat (there's also an alternator as well charging via Sterling advanced regulator).
Last season I replaced my Phoenix charger with a s/h Phoenix Multiplus 24/3000/70 with a firmware 14XXXX (will confirm that later on today and post a pic) and a single RJ45 socket on the PCB saying control (on it's lefthand side)
Anyway, my local installer helped me with a MK2-USB (as it turns out!) and VEConfig to set it up. All working fine, no issues.
Now, bought and setup a Raspberry pi 3B+ and 2 VE.Direct-USB cables, hooked them all up, setup my VRM Portal account and all's fine.
Having forgotten that he'd used a MK2-USB cable and having gone through all the literature on your site, I wrongly assumed I had a newer version VE.Bus compatible Multi and bought a MK3-USB cable wired it all up and unsurprisingly Venus doesn't read/know of the Multi :-(
So, after all this intro my simple Qs are:
A. is it possible to somehow connect this non VE.Bus Multi to Venus and get the proper functionality/reports?
B. what is the protocol used in this "control" RJ45 socket? any info/board/software that I could play with?
C. if there's no luck with A and B, is there any other (cheap) h/w I can add to the system to monitor AC consumption (well preferably generator in, system out)
I don't care about the remote control functionality, and using the boat installed home automation system I do turn off the multi when boat unoccupied for x hours, so I'm fine in this respect. What I want is monitoring AC usage only.
(I understand that the MK3-USB will either go to ebay or kept for my next Victron piece of h/w most likely a BMS for LiFePO4 in 2021 or 2022!)
Is it possible to have two battery banks, that are two different chemistries. My idea is to have two inverters running from the same ac in phase.
I’m in uk running 230v 50hz
I wondered if I had the ct clamps to detect the order at which the inverters needed to operate or not.
I have had 3 phoenix 24/3000 inverters working in parallel for years, after a firmware upgrade on my color controller, a week later they have failed to parallel connect now coming up with a firmware issue. Was advised to update the inverter firmware. Using the MK3 interface i have done one successfully which is the newest. 2612154.HEX to version 476.
The other 2 are older 1912137.HEX and 1912112.HEX The 137 unit appeared to update but will not accept changes on the dip switch settings now, the oldest one came up with no MK2 found.
So now no parallel operation what so ever.
Any advice as to my next step. I am an electrician so know my way round electrical gear.
I have a victron multiplus 12/3000 inverter with 2x 150ah lithium batteries from Ohmmu wired in parallel. The batteries and inverter are wired with 4/0 cable.
When I try to run a high draw appliance (in this case an espresso machine), the low battery light comes on, and the inverter shuts off.
What might be causing this issue? Everything I have found on other forum posts here is related to wire gauge, but I don't think that is my issue. Is there anything else that might be causing it?