I have a 16S LiFePo4 160Ah as with following data :
In VE.Config i have left everything default for LiFePo4 but i am not sure it's correct. Right now the battery has been in Bulk for 3-4 h but should it not charge it to 56,8V per the default settings ? Does everything look fine to you ?
I am planning to upgrade the 12v house bank in my boat to lithium. In the process I need a new 230v charger, with 3 outputs to charge this new lithium bank, plus agm starter batteries, plus windlass/thruster battery.
looking for high capacity as well as keeping it on more or less constantly to maintain and keep all batteries topped up and in good shape.
the Skylla 12/70-3 was recommended to me but then I was warned that it would not cope with batteries of a different type.
Also, I already have the Argofet 200-3 mounted, and it works great. But again, someone said it would not work with one battery bank being lithium. As that bank is so power hungry the theory is that no charging current from the engine will reach the two other banks until the lithium bank is full.
Is it true? Or will it work? This lithium upgrade is turning into a headache before it started.
Almost every ESS battery compatibility page notes that old VE.CAN BlueSolar (150/85 & 150/70) with the rectangular metal case does NOT support external BMSes, because the firmware does not implement the required control instructions.
On the face of it, this makes sense.
However, after a couple of years of this being the case, WHY has the feature not been implemented?
I currently have some of these devices, and they are essentially useless now.
I understand that firmware "space" might be an issue to add this feature, but would it not be possible to build a cut-down firmware that contains ONLY this feature and none of the standalone charging features? That way a "BMS-compatible" firmware can be flashed, since none of the other features matter then.
It really is a shame that these excellent chargers have basically been abandoned now, especially since they were marketed as the top-of-range models initially.
Looking for a dc to dc charger to charge my 280 ah 24 v / 6800wh lifepo4 electric trolling motor drive battery from my 200 ah 12 v starter battery. (50 Amp 12V alternator on main engine)
Can you give me an advice what kind of dc to dc charger would suit my needs ?
something like a orion tr smart 12/24-15a (360w) isolated dc-dc charger should work ?
Hi I have a Quattro that I have just replaced the Failing AGM battries with 4 24v 100Ah batteries wired in parallel and changed all settings as per Victron specs the problem in having is when the batteries are full the Quattro is completly shutting down and restarting without any alarm.
my observations are that the dc voltage starts to climb and when it gets to approx 30v it faults out, I,m wondering if the bms in the batteries is disconecting causing the spike in voltage causing the inverter to trip.
if so is there a work arround for this? the batteries are standalone not connected to the inverter, im using the standard Victron LifePo settings which is lower then the batterys recomended im pulling my hair out here any help would be appreciated thanks.
Ok I disabled the charger in the Quattro and am charging off the solar and is cutting off as it should and not spiking the voltage the problem is the quattro pushing the voltage up to 30v then tripping any ideas?
Just received this new solar charger / inverter, wondering if anyone knows if there is a way I can use remote on / off to disable mppt charger but keep inverter running? I currently have lithium bank and run twin core from hv port on my bms to turn off a 150 /85 mppt if a cell gets too high (3.6v) to prevent overcharging, I want to do the same thing with the RS but so far if I open the physical circuit on ‘remote on / off’ it turns the inverter off as well as the charger, is there a way to keep inverter running but just send signal from bms to turn charger off ?
Hello I am connecting a quattro in its first connection to a lithium battery, it gave me the normal spark but it was very large, I checked the fuse and it has continuity, I made a second, third and fourth connection and it gave a great spark again and the batteries The lithium batteries were restarted, I did not leave the inverter connected because the batteries would restart with some possible equipment failure and damage the batteries.
I have turned on many multiplus and quattro and had not missed this big spark. the polarities and wiring are well checked.
I would like to know if I continue with the startup or do I need to do some other verification.
After removing the fuse to check the continuity of the fuse, I measure the voltage at the Quattro terminals (positive and negative terminal) and the capacitors do not remain charged, they reach 2.2V, they do not charge at the battery voltage of 50V.
I just finished building my battery bank (4S 202Ah Lishen A-grade) and I now want to initialise the battery using my new IP65 12/15 charger. The manufacturer sent along a detailed data sheet where a charging end voltage per cell of 3.65V (x4 = 14.6V) is specified. I programmed the BMS to cutoff at that voltage accordingly.
My question now is: Which settings do I use with the 12/15 charger to fully charge/initialise the battery? I want to top balance the pack and then use the Orion-Tr in my vehicle to recharge it. The initialisation/top balance step will have to occur now. And then just once in a blue moon...
Normal (which I understand is for lead acid batteries, is rated at 14.4V) and Li-Ion (14.2) both seem too low, and High (14.7V) seems too high. Inside the app I can select a preset "LiFePO4" profile, but this also has a setting which to me seems too low: 14.2V absorption and 13.5V float and storage, as 14.2V/4cells = 3.55V
Maybe I am getting something wrong? I'd greatly appreciate your help with this.
I have a 100AH Lifepo4 battery with the SmartSolar 100/20 MMPT charger.
The Lifepo4 battery has a charge voltage of 14.6 v and a nominal voltage of 12.8. All the equipment is brand new.
I note the Victron default Lifepo4 setting only charges at 14.2 and 13.5 float.
I'm assuming I can use the expert mode to set this to 14.6v for absorption but not sure what I should use for the float voltage?
I wonder if Victron would consider developing a dual-purpose lithium battery?
Most lithium batteries of circa 75-125Ah are deep-cycle only, with limited peak discharge currents that prohibit their use for starting engines.
There are now some batteries on the the market with dual-purpose capability, and with CCA’s much higher than their lead acid counterparts.
Take for example the Antigravity AG-H7-80-RS, this 80Ah battery has a CCA of 2000 amps! It also has a feature they call ‘RE-START’. The BMS puts the battery to sleep when it’s reached a point of discharge, retaining enough in reserve to start your engine. The feature is activated by a remote fob, or a button on the battery. This could effectively eliminate the requirement for a separate start battery in some applications, removing the associated complexity.
There’s also a 100Ah battery from RELiON, which has a peak discharge current of 800A.
I would love to see a similar Victron product :)
I am planning new DIY LIFEPO4 batteries for my boat, with Quattro 5000/24 in France (and MPPT).
I have Electrodacus SBMS0 BMS which can remote on/off the quattro (8 yrs old), and switch off its AC sources at high voltage via SSRs. Also have remote control cable for Smart Solar MPPT 100/50. SBMS0 also has temp monitor for disabling charge at high or low temps (5deg default minimum).
What I'm concerned about is winter time when no one on board. I'd like to run some small AC loads for monitoring, and trickle charging the Engine Battery (24v) and Generator (12v) lead acids via Victron Blue Smart chargers.
Q1. Should / can I disconnect the LiFEPO4 batteries from the Quattro for winter ? and will the quattro still allow shore AC power to my minor loads ?
Q2. Alternatively can/should I leave connected and set a charging profile to maintain just a low SoC ? (eg all at bulk/absorb/float at 26.2V which is 3.275 v/cell, and approx 60% SoC) ?
Q3. What charging profile should I use during season when I want to let the SBMS0 control charging and loads ? I understand slightly higher than the default cutoff of the SBMS0 which is any cell reaching 3.55V , then back allowed once 3.40v reached). So if I choose 28.8 V for bulk/absorb/float (3.6V/cell), it should never reach those Volts, as SMBS0 will cut it off once one cell reaches 3.55V. ? SBMS will cut off Quattro and all DC loads (via a Battery Protect) once any cell hits 2.8V, and only re-allow when V get back to 3.2V.
Thanks for reading this far ! .. Peter
Bonjour à toutes et tous,
J’ai besoin de votre avis sur l’alimentation en 12V d’un EBL 119. EBL est un bloc électrique qui équipe la plupart des Camping-Cars.
Mon intention est de retirer complètement la batterie de service équipée de base (AGM) et sa connexion à l’EBL et de m’équiper en Lithium 2x 200Ah.
L’EBL n’étant pas conçu pour le Lithium, je m’équipe totalement différemment et le tout en Victron.
Mais je souhaite quand même garder l’EBL qui gère les alimentations 12V du CC, pompe, chauffage,etc…
D’où ma question :
Est-il correct d’alimenter l’EBL (sans batterie de service donc) par son entrée chargeur +/- qui autorise une alimentation en 18A et câblé en 16mm2, ceci serait possible grâce au Chargeur Orion-Tr Smart isolé 12/12-18 depuis le parc Lithium ?
Ou est-ce un autre chargeur ?
Si ceci est correct, est-il judicieux d’installer un BatteryProtect pour éviter le retour ou pas nécessaire ?
Merci beaucoup de vos lumières
I purchased the below charger, the Victron blue smart IP67 24v/12a model, and am running into an issue configuring it for my Tesla battery module (6s 25.2v max). When connecting the charger to Victron connect on my iPad I'm able to design a custom profile, but when I set the absorption/float/storage voltages to 24v (trying to keep the battery at 80% as full to help prevent cell degradation and balancing issues) it reverts to a minimum of 25.6v. Is there any way at all to actually get a 24v output voltage on this 24v charger? Or is the minimum actually 25.6? Charging a 6s lithium-ion battery to 25.6v instead of 25.2 will cause an early failure of the pack, if not something more catastrophic. Currently, I have to set timers on my phone and keep a very close eye on the charge levels to avoid overcharging, and that defeats the sole purpose of purchasing a programmable smart charger.
I use this charger for a LiFePo4 battery from BattleBorn. I am re-doing my setup and was wondering if it is safe to leave the charger connected to the battery all the time so that when mains power is available I can plug it in and have it charge the battery while the load connected to the battery continues to run? I believe I have seen that this is okay but wanted to confirm. Secondarily I have the function set to charger - would I need to switch that to power supply or can I just leave it as charger?
I have the above inverter with Rolls 5000 6CS25P batteries (supported with PV panels) which are 14 years old and have done great job. I am thinking of replacing them with Pylontech UP2500 24v batteries but cannot find any confirmation that they are OK with Multiplus as above. All advertising notes them as suitable for backup or UPS but not for daily cycle solar power. My alternative is to get a new 48v Multiplus, which would be a shame as this one is only 3 years old, with the Pylontech US2000B or US3000B batteries. Any thoughts much appreciated.
I have a off grid system consisting of repurposed Nissan leaf batteries(NMC) in 14s2p giving me approximately 280Ah @ nominal voltage 53,2 with min/max cut-off's at47,6V and 57,4V. coupled to a 150/60 Solar MPPT and dual Multiplus2 48/5000 in parallel.
When battery has reached float it seems the loads are taken from the battery and not from the solar MPPT even though its daytime. I am not really concerned to keep battery at 100% since its at 4,1V/Cell and should not affect longevity to keep it there during daytime hours.
Is there a setting somewhere to change this in order to keep batteries at 100% until dawn?
vrm page for system
so the battery runs my pc and other things fine. some days the battery is hardly used. hasn't gone below 13 volts. o sunny days the 80amp breaker will trip. Looking at the history shows the battery hitting 16.26v I have manual entered the info and though I had fixed the issue until i was running my pc and slow cooker on the same day. any help will be much appreciated
I'm trying to design a three-pahse inverter/charger (Quattros) system that can energize a certain amount of loads (with only energy from batteries) within a certain schedule. Outside of that schedule, it should be able to power the loads using the energy from the grid. Is there a way to configure an assistant to help with this configuration setup?
My 2019 (from former boat owner) purchased 2 x 200 Ah LifePo4 Victron batteries have a significant reduced capacity. Bulk-Charging from landline via Philippi charger and solar bulk charging take forever. The maximum capacity is terminated at 280 Ah in sum of both batteries. The B2B system to an AGM is working fine. The alternator charger (Sterling) from the vessel's diesel to the starter is fine as well.
How can I locate the problem within the batteries? If there is a problem, who can be contacted at Victron, since the batteries worked perfectly the last 2 seasons...
Interested in thoughts regarding Victron batteries with external BMS vs integrated BMS batteries like Battle Born or Victron.
Thanks for Steve Mitchell for his detailed information on a Victron system install.
Have a 2001 Beneteau 361 upgrading from the original Xantrex Freedom 20 to a LiFePO4 & Victron system.
What do you 'lose' or 'gain' by going with the integrated BMS batteries (Battle Born) vs the Victron with external BMS?
Is the BatteryProtect needed/useful with the smart LifePO4 battery?
Does the battery itself stop sending current when its voltage is too low?
The battery itself has an "Allowed-To-Discharge cell voltage" setting, the manual says "As soon as one of the cells reaches this voltage, the BMS will disable all loads by sending a signal to the load or to the load disconnection device.".
I don't understand if the battery is smart enough to stop sending power to devices once that voltage is reached, or it (and the VE.Bus BMS) needs a "load disconnection device" that acts like a switch between the battery and the load.
A standard load wouldn't care about a stop signal, unless that signal was a complete lack of current.
I often see the BatteryProtect in schematics but it seems the battery with the (VE.BUS BMS which is directly recommended) may already be equipped to protect against under/over voltage.
Does anybody know of the ballpark figures for internal resistance of victron LiFePo4? The packs i have are 12.8V 90Ah non smart with BMS.
If not these specific model has anyone tested their own LiFePo4 cells or has any knowledge of what sort of resistance is 'standard' for Victron LiFePo4 cells?
Hello, I am new to installing Victron and I have a problem. I have to install a 12s li-ion battery type NCM (EV) (3.7Vx12 = 44.4V). With a Multiplus II 48-5000-70 and Cerbo GX. Only lifepo4 appears in Multiplus II. I have changed the alarm and cutoff values below 42V and 40V (after use the ESS assistant). The 45.5V battery gives a low battery failure. What I can be doing wrong? Does anyone have a data table (DOD, SOC, Bulk ...) Thank you very much for your attention.
Hey there, as I commented on the blog post,
"I'm curious if future versions will have VE.Direct or some sort of integration like that with GX devices? Currently, it seems that the MPPT and MultiPlus are able to coordinate their total charge rate with external BMS via the GX devices. But it seems that the Orion-Tr does not participate in this?"
I'm wondering if there's a way to integrate the Orion-Tr Smart chargers with the CCGX. In particular, as far as I understand, GX devices can coordinate with external BMS via CANBus to determine the charging parameters of a battery. It seems that the Victron MPPT and Victron MultiPlus can respect these limits via VE.Direct and VE.Bus respectively, which is great and a big reason why I bought this BMS and the suite of Victron product.
Now I'm considering purchasing Orion-Tr Smart chargers, however I noticed that they don't have any VE.Direct connectivity, or any other VE connectivity aside from the Bluetooth one. Is something like VE.Direct, VE.Bus or VE.Can planned? Will Orion-Tr Smart chargers integrate with GX devices?
I'm looking at using Polarium Lithium Batteries in my system but notice they are -48v. Is there any way they could be used with a MultiPlus? Would I need to wire them in a different way, add some kind of converter or are -48v batteries not at all compatible with Victron equipment?
I am upgrading my boat to have Lithium for the house bank and Lead acid for the starter. I want to use the Alternator for the charging as well as using solar.
Looking at the Victron diagrams I see that using either a Cyrix-Li-ct or an Argofet battery combiner (lower quiescent power draw) I can do this. The Alternators are externally regulated to protect them for when the BMS shuts off the Lithium charge and there is the Lead acid also in circuit to protect the alternator.
My question is, how do you protect the Lead acid starter battery from damage of over charging?
Hi, I currently have a quattro 5000 with lithium bank 48v and I have my bms wired to the remote port on my smartsolar 150/85 which disables charging should one of the cells get to high, my question is can I also trigger this in the quatro or a multiplus to stop charging from an ac source (generator) should a cell voltage get too high? I had a look at manual for quatro but couldn't see easily, want to make sure I don't damage baterries by overcharging. Thanks.
Dears, this is my current, well running setup:
EasySolar 5kW + 48V 10KW Lithium Battery (Winston-cells) + 480W Solar Panels
Installed in a cabin, 2000m elevation in the alps -> So its a "island system" with no access to a grid
The cabin is protected against lightning impacts with a lightning rod. Unfortunately, the resistance is a little high with about 100 Ohm.
The EasySolar ground is connected to the lightning rod in order to be grounded.
I worry a little bit, that a lightning impact might damage the electronics, due to the high resistance in to the ground. I have installed fuses to protect everything as good as possible. Only the battery negative pole is directly connected to the EasySolar.
Question 1: Should I install a fuse on the negative pole of the battery as well? Because in case of a impact, the lightning would go into the rod and therefore directly to the earth connector of the EasySolar and then through the negative pole into the battery (if the resistance is lower than 100 Ohm).
Question 2: Would it make more sense, to unhook the system from the lightning rod and give it its own grounding? -> In case of a impact (in to the rod), the only connection would be through the solar panels which have a decent fuse.
Many thanks for your advise!
I have a Smartsolar 75/15 and have acquired some new (old stock) 9S 3Ah li-ion batteries by Bosch, so charge voltage about 37.8v, nominal 32.4/33.3v. I don't think manual settings cover these values so what do I need? Do I have to buy a different solar charger? Pv panels are 3 x 100Wp in series for about 56 - 60v out. This is for a small solar boat which previously had lead batteries. I've a feeling that I bought the wrong batteries.
I have a 100ah lithium battery and a IP65 15A charger. I also have a Dakota Lithium 300W inverter. I was wondering if I could charge my battery with the IP65 charger running off of the inverter while I am driving in my vehicle. I have a 4Runner with a 400W DC output in the rear of the vehicle that the inverter would be plugged into. Would the 300W inverter be able to run the charger or does the charger draw too much power? Or is this even safe for any of the items.