I recently bought a Victron MPPT controller and I installed it yesterday at a remote location that gets attened once a month.
I have fed it with two 300W panels in series giving me 80V@10A (Overkill I know but those are the panels available to me)
I have installed 10A circuit breakers on both the Positive and Negative before the PV feeds into the Controller. Cable for the PV is 4mm2
I have the Controller charging two identical lead acid truck batteries in series - their capacity would be 300 to 400AH combined. Setting is at 24V. Cable for the charge cable is 10mm2
Using bluetooth I set the charging algorithim to the "Default 2" setting at the advice of an off the grid electrician.
Can you guys give me advice as to how safe this setup is? I am primarily worried about the Charging Algorithim as the descriptions didn't seem to fit exactly with my battery hardware.
After 9 years, I am not sure my electrolyte is up to norm. To measure it, I intend to a) equalize, b) reach full SOC and end of absorption, c) cut off every load and charge, d) wait at least 2 hours and e) read my electrolyte density.
The difference with the "normal" density should allow me to top up as needed (water or acid).
Any other bright idea?
Hi, I have a narrowboat with 4 x 110ah lead acid batteries monitored by a BMV 702 and connected to a MPPT 100/50 Victron controller and a Multiplus 12/3000/120 Charger/Inverter.
I am looking to optimise the performance and life of the batteries and came across the combination of Lead Acid and Lithium Batteries in parallel which appear to complement their charactistics for optimum performance and Lead Acid battery life.
It appears that the recharge for the batteries is where this system falls down. Am I correct?
If this is the case, has anyone tried to separate the batteries during charging then reconnect for discharge? Would this overcome the problems in charging?
Your advice gratefully recieved
The battery voltage drops when there is no available PV power.
Is the battery already faulty/defective?
Battery is a lead-acid AGM.
I have installed the following off-grid system, which has been working pretty good for one year.
However I'm wondering if the behavior I see when I plug a 1200W water heater during the central hours of the day is expected.
As you can see from following graphs the battery voltage drops when load is active and jumps back to an higher value afterwards.
Reading other posts on this subject I've got this is expected indeed, but my question is: do I have to worry about this voltage drop? In other words: should I power on the AC generator if the battery voltage goes down to 46V like in the picture below?
Thanks a lot,
Hi i have a set up that consist of this
2x smartsola mppt 150/100
Lynx shunt and lynx distributor
Old 800ah lead acid battery 48v (16pcs 12v 200ah)
Can someone help me? I will be replacing the lead acid batteries with pylontech, but for now i have to use the lead acid batteries while waiting for the pylontech. Cant seem to get accurate soc and sync batteries
running on ESS, battery monitor is lynx shunt
There are big differences regarding the operating and charging temperature of lead carbon batteries across different manufacturers. I couldn't find any info on the ones sold by Victron.
Can someone tell me how is the typical cycle count in relation to the temperature? What should be the highest operating temp for these batteries?
I noted that my MPPT charger is rather sluggish to cut solar power down when the sun suddenly comes out of another cloud and so the power input sharply goes up. This causes the voltage to temporarily (5–10 seconds) reach about 15.0–15.5 V (which results in gassing) where the configured maximum is 14.3 V.
I know that overcharging / gassing is harmful, especially that the batteries are sealed (although they are lead-carbon with pretty good spec — 4000 cycles at DOD 50%).
But how harmful are those short/transitional instances of overcharging? Should I be worried to the extent to start searching for a better / more agile charger that will hold maximum configured voltage firmly no matter how quick/high the input power jumps?
While saving for a good agm battery, I am testing with a Varta car battery, but I am not sure which setting to choose to charge it via the 8 position rotary switch.
At the moment I am in position 2, default setting, but every day in less than an hour it is fully charged, I am using a 375w panel.
I was looking at the ip22 3 output charger as a potential solution for my need to charge both a standard lead acid starter battery and a lithium auxiliary battery but have read in other posts that it follows the same charge profile on all outputs. Is there a Victron Smart device that can deal with two battery types in a single unit or should I just get 2 independent chargers?
I have a MultiPlus 12/2000/80 with VE bus multi control which indiscriminately drops out the AC shore power. Output at the power bollard appears to be normal and nearby boats have no problems. Obviously when it decides to return the power it goes through a new charge cycle. How can I stop these dropouts.
I have connected my Orion 12/12 30a to my car/fridge setup and was wondering if anyone can give me some tips for the setup of the battery in the settings menu.
Battery is a Supersafe SBS190F sealed lead battery. Do I select the AGM Algorithm?
And should I adjust the float and absorbtion rate ect?
sorry I am new to all this and really don’t want to cook my batteries.
thanks in advance
I have just installed an Orion-Tr Smart 12|12 - 30 Isolated DC/DC charger to my Mercedes Sprinter van to charge a West Marine Lead Acid 105 Deep Cycle 'House' battery when underway. I was surprised there was no charge profile available for this device/battery match in Victron Connect.
The Merc has a 270Amp Alternator and my house battery spec is:
20 Ah Cap
MCA @ 32°F = 800
Can anyone advise me on a charge profile?
I am installing a Smart Solar MPPT 75/15 on my boat, and will wire it to an AGM battery (Deka 8A4D). My engine starting battery (lead acid Deka 904D). The AGM will power the house loads and the starter battery starts the engine - they have separate positive cable runs. However, when my engine is on or when I am connected to shore power, I combine the positive cable runs so both batteries will charge from the engine or shore. This also means that the Smart Solar charger will now be charging both batteries. Are there settings on the MPPT that will work for this scenario? What are the drawbacks? Or should I not do this at all? (I suppose one work around would be turning off the charge controller when the engine is on, but that's not ideal.)
Hi, Just wondering if it is possible or advisable to use the lithium version of the cyrix-ct with a SLA house battery.
Im considering this because adding a lithium house battery soon. I understand I would need to control the BMS wire of the relay to enable the relay to close.
Looks like the enable / disable voltage would work with lead acid being 13.4-13.2v
I often have that alarm cleared about 30s later. Last time yesterday at 18:47, maybe at the starting time of my washing machine, but not sure. Does not alarm me but I woul like to understand! My setup:
- Off grid, 2kWp on my roof + 23kWh lead batteries.
- 2 solar MPPT 150/65, 1 multiplus 24/5000/230
- BMV712, CCGX
Around the time of alert, exact time to be checked I am normally on my local sun time (UT+28m) but VRM may have some other tim:
Just want confirmation on my settings. Help will be appreciated. The ones in bold I'm most worried about.
Stop after excessive bulk checked
Lithium batteries unchecked
Storage mode checked
Use equalization (tubular plate traction battery curve) unchecked
Charge curve Adaptive + BatterySafe
Absorption voltage 57.60 V
Float voltage 54.60 V
Charge current 35 A
Repeated absorption time 1.00 Hr
Repeated absorption interval 7.00 Days
Maximum absorption time 8 Hr
Temperature compensation -72.0 mV/deg
Battery Specsheet: Omnipower-240.pdf
The system is a MultiPlus II 48/3000/35-32 with 4 x OmniPower 240AH batteries as a backup system. I'm using the BMV700 as a battery monitor. Venus GX.
I came across this blog entry which basically says that, for lead acid batteries, lower temperatures require higher charging voltage. Can anyone please explain why this is true, or point to an authoritative source?
I did ask this question on Chemistry SE a while ago, and those guys seem to be of the opposite opinion: higher temps need higher voltage.
Intuitively I disagree with them and agree with the blog post: lower temps need more power to move molecules around, remove sulphate crystals etc. But I seek a definitive authoritative explanation.
I recently bought a preowned boat and i noticed that the charger Centaur charger is connected to AGM consumer battery bank and also the lead acid start battery. Jumper setiting on charger is set to AGM.
Can the AGM charge mode damage the lead acid battery in any way? I just had to replace the start battery (4 years old) as it would not recieve chargning any more and i am wondering if the charger can have anything to do with the short life span.
I am developing a solar battery system to power actuators in remote areas.
I have investigated both MPPT (SmartSolar) and PWM (BlueSolar) charge controllers for this application. I have a few questions concerning exactly how these work and what settings are possible. My objective is to determine how long it will take to charge my chosen batteries with my chosen solar panels.
It is my understanding that the most common effective method for recharging lead acid batteries is to use 3 phases – bulk, absorption and float. In the bulk phase, the maximum amount of current available from the panels is supplied to the batteries. In the absorption phase, a constant voltage is maintained whilst the current is progressively stepped down. Finally, in the float phase, a small current is supplied at a constant voltage to overcome self-discharge. An MPPT charge controller uses a DC-DC converter to match the batteries voltage during the bulk phase, increasing the current to ensure all the power available from the panels is supplied to the batteries. It then uses pulse width modulation to step down the current progressively during the absorption phase. A PWM charge controller supplies the maximum current from the panels during the bulk phase and, like the MPPT charge controller, uses pulse width modulation during the absorption phase. The charge controller switches from the bulk phase to the absorption phase at ~80% fully charged and sets a timer for the absorption phase based on the initial voltage of the battery before charging began. Is this explanation correct?
For lithium ion batteries, it is my understanding that the absorption phase is not required and that they can be charged entirely within the bulk phase with charging ceasing at a set voltage limit. Is this correct?
Finally, in direct reference to the SmartSolar and BlueSolar products, can an output current limit be set? This may be useful in a situation where the recommended charging current of a battery is less than the output current from the solar panel.
Thank you in advance for your advice
I am currently running on two 100Ah lead acid batteries on my boat. One is solely used for starting the engine and the other one is the "service" battery for all other loads on board. A blue power charger 12V/30A/3 outputs is used to charge both batteries when the boat is connected to shore power. I also have a automatic charging relay to combine batteries during charging, isolate them when discharging and when starting engines. Basically it looks like this:
On top of that I have a SmartSolar MPPT 100/20 charge controller to charge the service battery from a 200W solar array.
I am now looking into replacing the service lead battery with a Lithium battery of the same or double Ah. If I'm not mistaken, the SmartSolar MPPT controller will be able to charge the Lithium battery but I am not sure about the blue power charger. There are multiple scenarios that I'm not sure about:
1. Charging from the engine only (ex. during night time when the solar panel doesn't work).
2. Charging from the engine and the solar panel (ex. when the boat is running during day time).
3. Charging from the solar panel only (ex. when the engine is not running during day time).
4. Charging from the shore power only (ex. when docked during night time).
5. Charging from the shore power and the solar panel (ex. when docked during day time).
Can anyone enlighten me on how I can properly charge both batteries under all possible scenarios?
Thank you in advance,
I recently installed the following off-grid system in a country house that will be used only during the weekends:
Normally I switch on the MP II only when I'm onsite and I need power (once a week so far), during the other days I leave the MP II off. The solar panels and the MPPT are always active (see the screenshot below taken from VEConnect).
I see from the App that every day of the week, even if the MP II is OFF, the batteries are exposed to a charging cycle (bulk, absorption, float). The voltage is raised from 51V to 59V everyday.
That is the behavior suggested from my Victron and battery re-seller.
I'd like to have the confirmation from you that my settings are the best ones in order extend the life of my batteries as much as possible.
Is the daily charging cycle really needed? Wouldn't be better to disconnect the 4 panels during the weekdays and to connect them to the MPPT only during the weekend?
Thanks for your suggestions!
How does coulomb counting work in an EasySolar inverter when there is no battery monitor and the battery bank is not a Victron product?
I need help about the parameters for cut off. The standard values makes that when the Multi draw up to 2500 - 3000w, they stop invert by low battery.
I have 24 cells Hoppecke 6 OPzS 600 that have a capacity:
C10 - 686Ah (1.80v)
C5 - 590Ah (1.77v)
C3 - 510Ah (1.75v)
C1 - 353Ah (1.67V)
I don't know if the voltages values from Hoppecke for each C value is the nominal o the limit when the battery is empty.
I've read the manuals and searched the forum and have concluded that the MultiPlus 12/3000 and SmartSolar MPPT chargers do not have specific presets for charging the lead-calcium batteries my yacht will come with. I haven't had the chance to use these chargers with the Victron Connect app via Bluetooth, but would I be right in thinking it will be a simple job to connect and select desired absorption and float voltages, to suit the batteries?
Not so new but still good Trojan deep cycle 6 volt large battery bank (12 units),
Solar panels, micro hydro electric,
New Genset Honda 2200W Inverter connected to battery charger.
I can't get the charger to stay on "Bulk charge" like it should. The built in charger kicks off quickly to taper down to float charge way before the battery bank is not even close to be charged. It usually kicks off Bulk charge in about 5 minutes.
Possible causes of charger Bulk charge issues?
I disconnected the solar panel system and getting the same problem...
Thank you Victron. These units are amazingly durable and well built. This community page is well put together AND HELPFUL (I hope!). I will definitely get a new unit if this one ever gives up...
I'm trying to develop a system where my client uses lead acid batteries or opz to store energy from a grid tie inverter or from the grid at night to store energy and used when need it.
Can a victron system do this? Or does it need a way to control the battery output?
The system that i'm to achieved is similar to the one in the image bellow.
I asked this question over on the whirlpool forum and got some great answers, one of which strongly recommended Victron inverter and BYD batteries. He also suggested I ask the same question here so.....
"I have a 48v stand alone system with 3.6Kw solar, 3.5 kva latronics inverter, Plasmatronics PL60 charge controller and Raylite 1380ah flooded lead acid batteries.
The batteries need replacing.
I have managed to get 13 good years from them so I am happy with that.
But now, with a budget of around AU15 – 16k, what do I do?
I have had companies tell me to throw everything away and start again with a relatively small lithium setup.
I have also been told I can integrate lithium into the current system with significantly smaller capacity.
I have been quoted on several flooded and gel packs all of which seems to be at the upper end of the available budget.
Cycle life seems to be all over the shop depending on who you are asking and each outlet will tell you that their chemistry or construction or configuration is "the only way to go".
The amount of information/misinformation is intimidating and I don't quite know who to believe so I am turning to the well experienced people here to offer there suggestions and reasoning.
The replacement of these batteries is of course, time critical as the gennie is getting a flogging at the moment.
Many thanks in advance,"
I've had this 48V system running for 4 months now and it works like a charm. It's beautiful to feel like you don't depend on anyone. But that's not true ;). I would hit the equalize button every month until one day I realized that it was not doing it. My setup is in the title plus 24 panels at 230W each mounted in series and parallel as to achieve 100V~130V @ 5 KWH, DC of course. I've tried different firmware versions for the CCGX and updated all devices from VRM. Called my supplier and they said that: This system comes with equalization off by default and that I needed to buy the bluetooth dongle to do this, otherwise I need to have an external generator ( yuck ), in order to activate the equalization. Keep in mind that the "EasySolar" is worth 3,5K. OK. So I need this done NOW so I buy the bootooth wongle and when I head over to, settings/battery, nothing appears. I've tried with different phones and in some of them it detects the MPPT and CCGX and in others it only detects the CCGX, I don't know if that matters because the newer ohone detects the MPPT. I've worked very hard to make this system a reality in my life and I would greatly appreciate if someone with more knowledge that me could help me with this issue, since we all know that equalization is vital in keeping those babies in good health!
I have just installed a new 300Ah Trojan bank, which was showing around 12.5v on installation. I have attached my charger, but it is only charging at 10amps @ 14.78v.
Is this a limitation of the batteries or of my charger?