I would like to operate Victron MultiPlus II - GX 48/5000 on an interim base together with one Freedom Won 5/4 Li-On battery. Later I plan to implement another Freedom Won 5/4 Li-On battery and operate both parallel. Is it possible to limit the settings in the MultiPlus at first from 5000W to 3000W ? Or do I have to choose the GX 48/3000 ?
I have a mobile (Caravan) system that is Lithium based but I DO NOT have Victron Lithium batteries. My batteries also do not have an accessible BMS. They are a Renogy 170 AH lithium batteries.
My system is charged via a Victron 100/50 Smart Solar MPPT and a Victron 30 amp AC charger. I also have fitted a BMV712, smart battery sense and a 65 amp Smart Battery Protect.
I am about to install a NON Victron Inverter 2800/5600 watts to see how much I can do via 240v instead of gas. Induction cooking etc.
my question is about how I best protect my batteries from over discharge whilst using the inverter.
I have read that you should not use a Smart Battery Protect on an inverter. Is this correct?
if you can then the 220 amp model it may be a bit small (2640 watts).
Can I use the BMV712 to activate a relay to disconnect the inverter?
Are there any other alternatives?
The 500VA Pheonix VE.Direct Inverter is rated to support up to 900W of peak power, according to the datasheet. However, the maximum wire gauge that can the screw terminals can accommodate is apparently AWG8 (also according to the datasheet). If the inverter is running from a 12VDC power source and the power demand is surged to ~900W, then the inverter would pull over 80A (accounting for some efficiency loss) which is well above the ampacity of an AWG8 cable. This seems like a potentially dangerous situation, or am I missing something? Thank you
Hi all, I've asked a similar question before, but after doing some trouble shooting, I still have an issue I'm trying to solve for. I'm converting a Ford Transit 250 into a camper and just finished setting up my electric system last week.
BMV 712 Smart Battery Monitor
MPPT 100v 30A Solar Charge Controller
(3) 100Ah LiFePO4 Battle Born batteries
Giandel 2200W Pure Sine Wave Inverter
Sterling 60A B2B Charger
Progressive Dynamics 60A 12v LiFEPO4 Battery Converter/Charger
What I’m trying to solve for is that when I turn my inverter on, it beeps continuously and says "Lo", indicating low voltage protection, and then shuts off.
I have taken apart the inverter and checked that the fuses are in good shape. (There are 4 30A fuses and they are all good).
I have charged up my battery bank to full, using my PD Converter, and synchronized the SOC to 100% on my BMV 712, as well as input the correct battery monitor settings in the Victron app.
It was previously recommended to me that maybe my main 300A fuse was blown, or that there was a short somewhere. I have used a multimeter to test all connections and I’m getting consistent voltage of over 13v anywhere I test. That leads me to believe that there is not a short, and that the 300A fuse is not blown (I've tested on both sides of the fuse).
However, my BMV 712 will not show any history (please see my updated attachments).
What am I missing here? Does anyone have any suggestions?
Hiya. Quick question, when sizing cable and fuse for an inverter, should I be sizing for continuous power or peak power?
I have the Victron 12v 250w inverter with continuous power of 200w and peak power of 400w, connecting to a 12v 405Ah battery array with a cable run of less than two meters both ways.
Here's my (possibly misguided?) calculations... assuming I'm looking a peak power then 400w divided by 12 volts equals 33.4 amps. Then divided by efficiency factor of 0.87 equals 38.3 amps? Added on a 25% safety margin to reach 47.9 amps. The maximum cable size for this inverter is 10mm so I'm figuring a 50 amp fuse should be sufficient to protect this size cable?
Was planning on using 35mm cable for the battery array to future proof any subsequent upgrades.
If anyone can confirm I'm on the right track or if not kindly put me on the right track it would be much appreciated. Also are there any definite guides for cable and fuse sizing out there please?
Using Victron 300 Amp/hr Lithium + VeBus BMS. Can no longer turn Multiplus 2000 on/off or adjust in AC (Hybrid mode)- which is a great feature. CCGX now shows feature disabled and controlled by BMS. All firmware up to date.
Anyway to override? Really want to use small genny + battery to run higher AC loads.
Hi everyone, as the title how do I connect my 12/800/35 Multipass to VE configure
I have a van that I am building out and trying to straighten some things out in my system as I design for kitchen.
I am hitting a lot of points where the inverter just won't budge though. Sometimes I'll be at a good charge say 75 - 80% of capacity and the inverter light will switch to "low battery" when I turn on the 1k watt hot water kettle. Really, at 1kW? No go. If I start the car, the kettle works. I haven't even bought the induction stove yet since I'm running into these issues.
I saw somewhere that potentially I would need at least 3 x 100ah batteries just to give enough current to the 3K W Inverter to do its thing. Is that right??
I'm hesitant to drop another $1k on a battery, although I would do it if it let me run my whole setup with the induction stove smoothly. It starts to worry me though that maybe I couldn't fill the 300ah battery bank fully with only 400W of solar. I've heard good rule of thumb is 200W solar per 100ah battery charge. I have enough room on the roof for another 50V panel..maaaybe 100W. So I'd be at 450W-500W, not the ideal 2:1 ratio. I do have an Orion that charges while I drive... so there is that. I would hardly ever be parked anywhere for days on end without moving. This is mostly a family extended trip mobile. Going for several days up to 2 months at a time remote work/travel trips. I also have a shore power hookup but don't plan on relying on that for steady refill, more of an emergency backup thing if in a pinch.
The other option would be to just swap out the 3k W inverter charger for the smaller 2k W inverter charger - if that is in fact a more appropriate current draw on 200ah batteries- not buy another battery, and just go propane setup for the kitchen stove instead of the induction stove. Thoughts? What say ye?
What is the input capacitance of Pheonix Smart Inverter 48V 1600VA? This is so that we can calculate if and what value of precharge resistor is needed with it.
I want to upgrade my installation, because I'm having too much stand-by consumption, but I'm not sure if it will erase the memory or something on the Victron equipment, thing is:
1 x Multiplus 12/1600
1 x Smart Orion TR 12/12-18
1 x Smart MPPT 100/20
1 x BMV-712
1 x Cerbo GX (with GPS & 4G)
2 x Smart Battery Protect 65A
1 x 200A lifepo battery
When not using the van, it stays in an underfloor parking, so I get no chances to get solar power (may I try to change the fluorescent light over the van?), so van is using around 130Wh/day with everything "Off".
I want to put 2 manual analogic "non powered in any way" battery 300A switches to disconnect manually the chargers from one side, and the rest of the system if van needs to be stopped more than 1 week.
So the question is, what will happen with my configurations in the MPPT, Orion, Multi and Battery Protects if I cut the power for 2-3 weeks? Will they wake up with the same configuration, or will they loose it? And the Cerbo? Will it also loose it?
I have a Victron 12/500 inverter and have noticed about a 0.85Amp draw without any load. Is that normal?
New guy here. Resto-modding a vintage motorhome - inclusive of lithium batteries for the house systems. Seriously considering the MultiPlus Inverter/Charger - 12/3000/120-50/120V.
I particularly like the feature to "dial down" the battery charging current via the remote panel. Might this feature also be automatic such that when I plug into differing shore power receptacles (15A, 30A, or 50A) the MultiPlus will automatically throttle the battery charging current ??
Thanks you in advance for your answers and comments - and thank you for the wealth of information here. I'm certainly a beneficiary.
General question, I'm learning as I go ahead, and the more I progress the more I realise I don't know anything :-)
I have a small solar setup and my battery is a Victron Deep Cycle AGM 60Ah.
It is connected to a SmartSolar 75|10 and I monitor it via a SmartShunt.
The battery is used to power LED lights and give power to a couple of small electrical loads. Everything is connected to the load output of the charge controller, works perfectly fine. With the lights on I draw around 24W.
Battery charges correctly, everything is fine.
I also have (wired directly to the battery/shunt) a 1000W inverter.
It doesn't get used much, and generally with loads of about 50/150W for 10/15 minutes maximum.
So far so good.
I sometimes want to connect a much bigger load (air compressor). It runs for less than a minute generally, unless it is fully empty, in which case it will run for a couple of minutes, (but this case will happen less than once a month).
The compressor is rated at 700W. When used, the SmartShunt measures about 900W (and a healthy 86A) but the battery voltage drops down to 10.5 under that load.
The SmartShunt indicates about 20 minutes remaining energy (at 50% SoC) under that load.
I used it a couple of times to test it. Battery SoC went down about 10% (as indicated in the app), charged happily in the next day or so.
– how much would be an acceptable voltage drop under an heavy load for that AGM battery (cannot find data online)?
– any pointers on how to properly calculate battery capacity to run something like that?
Thanks in advance.
[image]can anyone please advise which settings to change out of these 6 pages.
Equipment on board is as follows
Victron multiplus inverter charger 12/3000/120
6 × trojan t105s 6v wired to make 12v. 675 amps in total
Figures taken from trojan website.
980w solar into victron mppt 150/85
No mains power only generators 1 x honda eu20i and a kipor 6.7kva
Anybody an idea why my Multiplus compact 12/2000-80-30 draws about 2178 watts (176.90amps) from a 200AH Lifepo4 for a 1500 watts coffe maschine? DC Cable size between Multiplus and Lifepo4 is 50mm thick and about 1.50 meter long. I also got a cheap chinease 2000 watts inverter only which I wanted to replace by the Multiplus and this chinease inverter is working fine with the same setup. The max Power what that inverter draws out of the Lifepo4 are 1640 watts. Could be something wrong with the Multiplus? I guesss there are no settings which I could change. Any help would be much apriciated.
I have a simple off-grid system, with a SmartSolar 100/50 CC feeding LiFePO4 batteries, which are monitored by a SmartShunt.
The VRM monitoring is superb, and now even better via a Rasperry Pi, connected to the SmartSolar and SmartShunt via the USB adapter cables.
Simple question: is it possible to add an additional smartshunt to monitor the energy flow to the (non-Victron) inverter? And have this show on the VRM as energy flowing to “AC Loads”?
I assume this is possible, but would hate to buy the additional shunt and only have the data available via the Bluetooth connection. Would love to see it all integrated on the VRM/remote console.
By the way - I love how easy this system was to put together. Unbelievable - it just works!!!
Thank you in advance!
I'm wondering if I bought undersized cables to link my batteries to the Multiplus (12 | 3000 | 120 - 50 | 120V.)
Before I ordered cables, I looked at an AWG to mm2 table online and assumed it was accurate. But no. It says AWG 1 == 50 mm2.
Per tables I looked at after ordering cables, (e.g. this one) AWG 1 is actually 42.4 mm2. The Multiplus manual recommends 50 mm2 (x2) and I've got 42.4 mm2 (x2).
Each cable is 24" from Lynx distributor to the Multi.
The cable vendor's web page describes the cable I bought as such:
I'm starting with 2 Battle Born 100AH batteries (plan to add a 3rd if needed) and I've got a 200A mega fuse on each AWG 1 cable to the inverter. Am I okay? If okay with 2 batteries, still okay with 3 batteries?
This is a 30A RV and I won't be trying to run the air conditioner off grid. (Unless I attach my small Honda generator to shore power inlet, and then maybe I'll try air con if it's really hot.) The Honda spec says: 120V 2200W max. (18.3A), 1800W rated (15A).
I have a simple Solar setup, using MPPT 75 I 15, a Siemens Solar Panel M110-24 and a 12V110Ah battery.
I want to add more battery capacity, but that is another issue, so I wounder if I can connect an Inverter 12Vdc to 230Vac-700W direct to battery?
this is because the MPPT75 I 15 has a máx load output of 15Amp (180W) and the inverter will consume much more. The MPPT 75 I 15 will shutdown port LOAD when battery reach low battery level. As the inverter has a wired powerOn control, the battery will be protected since the wired powerOn from inverter is connected to port LOAD. When port LOAD is off, inverter is off.
Is it possible? thanks in advance, best regards.
I set limit inveter power in ESS, but It doesnt seem to work. My limit was 700W but it was still inverting around 2000W and only 300W was drawn from the grid. Do you know where could be the problem?
RV Upgrade; The coach has on onboard 4kw generator that will be used to charge the batteries in addition to the 950w solar panel array.
I am going to be running 4x 12.8v 200ah lithium batteries and deciding whether to run as 24v paired with a 24/5000 Quattro or run as 12v paired with 12/3000 Multiplus.
If I go the 24/5000 route I am having the panel upgraded from 30amp to 50amp. The quatrro has a much beefier charger in it and will almost cut charging time in half compared to the Multi-plus so I am leaning that direction.
Other than faster charging and additional power headroom, what else am I not considering as potential downsides or upsides to the 24/5000 setup vs the 12/3000 setup?
Is it possible to add a second (smaller) inverter to a system managed by Venus GX and in which there is already a Multiplus? The AC out would be independent to feed some specific loads. Can the power consumption of the 2nd inverter AC out still be monitored?
There would be a time in Which the Multiplus would work as charger and the smaller inverter would keep inverting. I don't know if this is feasible and controllable by the same Venus device.
Have a single 230v 50hz victron Quattro 10,000VA. AC output 1 is supplying a small AC Panel. The AC Panel has a 63A inlet breaker and RCD, and dedicated breakers for each consumer. There are no other supplies into this AC Panel.
The Quattro manual advises the following "An earth leakage circuit breaker and a fuse or circuit breaker rated to support the expected load must be included in series with output L1, and cable cross-section must be sized accordingly."
In the technical specifications part of the same manual, it advises that there is automatic short circuit, and overload protection. My question is, if these safety features are built in, why must there be a breaker on the AC output side of this inverter??.
My new inverter fails and starts continously while heating a RV Water Heating. Water heater is 120ac and 10 amps. BMV-712 says it's 1700watts, and current is 144amps. SOC is 94 percent when I I turned on my water heater SOC was 100% and Batteries we're at 13.30 charge
I have 2 Battleborn Lifepro4 batteries
Checked all my wiring and double checked.
I have only allowed it to shut down and start 4 times for fear of ruining it.
Hi everyone! First time victron user here.
I am hoping to use the Quattro inverter and want to ensure my system is to spec. I need to clarify the definition of 'maximum feed through current'? Does the 100A maximum feed through current refer to the maximum DC input current? Or the output AC current? Both?
Thanks for the help!
When plugged into shore power or a generator, does the 2k inverter charger bottle neck the power coming in to 2000 or does it let everything in that is needed?
the reason I ask is we have a Dometic Brisk Air 2 air conditioner with a Microair soft start installed that draws 1670w (without the soft start) but we are only going to be using it when hooked up to a generator or shore power and want to make sure that the 2000 would power it without overloading.
We will NOT be powering the AC with the batteries, ONLY when on shore or generator power.
Love your brand and products, but when can we see Inverter/Chargers with Battery input voltages above 66V that can accept 82.8 or 90VDC all the way up to 345/360VCD.
Really would like to be able to have larger systems without the massive cables and voltage drop issues.
We are using charge controllers from solar at higher voltages,
You all know where this is headed, we want systems that can handle the new larger voltage batteries from the Model 3. Cheers!
We just installed out battery bank and multiplus in our TT, when switching from solar to shore power we get a loud buzzing sound and the inverter goes into overload and shuts off.
I've got a SmartSolar 150/35 with a string of panels totalling 600W. I've a couple of 110AH TN Power LiFePO4 batteries in series so running at 24V.
I've also a Phoenix Inverter Smart 24/3000. Both the charger and inverter are connected in parallel to the batteries via fuses etc. Cables to the inverter are 50mm2 copper and 16mm2 to the charger.
Generally on its usual load (around 150W) everything is fine. The 'fun' starts when I charge the car....
I've set that rate to 1.3KW which the inverter is fine with and it charges nicely. One of the batteries gets a bit warmer than the other but nothing to worry about. But the yield from solar drops right down from say 400W to under 200W. I note that the panel voltage also drops from around 95V to 50V as well. It's almost like the MPPT tracking has gone wrong somehow. Stop charging in the and it all recovers.
Ripple up the DC to the charger upsetting it? Something else obvious I've missed?
I've been building a custom remote control interface for my system using modbus, but certain information isn't accurate using this, such as the daily solar yield value of the mppt or the inverter phase power readings. My solution to this was to query the systems via dbus instead. This all works fine, but has highlighted another potential problem.
The power reading I get from the Multiplus via dbus matches what my venus displays, right now ~11W, with output power of 230V and current of 0.1A. Dbus also shows similar readings, allowing for rounding. The problem is, 230V * 0.1A isn't 11W, it's 23W. So, which figure is incorrect, the inverter phase output current or the inverter phase power?
I know it seems like a small problem, but at the moment I'm on limited input power, so every watt counts. I also want to know that my configuration and controls all work for when I scale up my inputs and outputs.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
I have a multiplus 12/3000/120 and a roof top Dometic A/C that will trip my 300A breaker when the compressor would want to start. I’ve installed an “easy start” it helped when connected to a 15A shore power but if I try running only the inverter it will trip the breaker. I have 1 2/0 wire going into the multi + and - I don’t know if I should increase the breaker? Is my wire safe? Is my multi safe if I go to a 400A fuse? Thanks.