I'm trying to figure out if Victron inverters are US certified?
My solar installer is saying he can't use Victron because it won't pass inspection in Washington state (US).
I found the below certificates on victron's site, but my installer says he doesn't see a listing for US or at least one that Washington State recognizes so he can't legally install it.
I sent a mail to Victron to ask for clarification, but figured I might post here as well just in case someone here was able to help figure this out.
Quattro 15kVA Certificate
Battery Inverter Certificate
Recently installed a new unit as per instructions, input is wired directly to a starter battery the output to the aux battery. For some reason the start voltage won't go below 16v hence the charging won't engage.
We recently replaced our AGM house batteries with 5 Smart Lithium 12V/200AH (V 1.20) or 1000AH. Added Smart BMS CL 12/100 (V1.06), SBP 12V/220A (V2.08, Bootloader V1.02), SmartShunt 1000A/50mv (V4.05), Cerbo GX (v 2.63)and have a Multiplus Compact 12/2000/80 (V unknown).
1. While sailing and using the electric winch the system reboots. Both motors on.
2. While sailing, motors on, the system rebooted Nav system, autopilot, VHF (12V electrical)
3. Sailing w/o motors -12v electrical quit. Had to restart our engines to restart the 12V system.
4. At the dock we started the generator and we lost the 12V electrical system. The 110/220V system works fine. At this point the 12V system has not returned.
We are working with our Victron Installer and local Victron Rep for the past month as items 1-3 have recurred but the solution has not been found. Any thoughts?
Not shown is the Port side Start and Generator battery which are connected to the starboard side via a Samlex 160 Battery Separator
Are you able to install the multiplus to metal channel? Typically called strut? Or would the metal case short out to the metal racking? Installing in the basement of a fifth wheel, so was planning on the metal strut for structural support.
Hi there. Can I use a AWG 11 (4 mm2) wire to connect the IP22 12V/30A to three 74 Ah/680A wet batteries, at a maximum distance of 2,5m? Also, shall I install fuses between the charger and the batteries? If yes, how many Ampere? Thank you in advance for the hints. Max.
I am looking to build a Multiplus 5000/10kW battery/6.3kWp off grid system in Hungary and looking for a supplier and an installer, ideally one company. There are 3 distributors listed on the Victron site but none of them do installation and they're either not responsive or don't have installation partners.
I'm in south Hungary so if someone from Croatia is interested in taking on a project this size please do get in touch.
Many thanks in advance.
my english skills are not the best. I apologize for that.
My question is: Is it allowed to mount a phoenix smart ip 43 charger horizontally if there is sufficient ventilation? The instructions recommend a vertical installation.
i am planning a solarsystem whit 3x VE MultiPlus-II 48/3000/35-32 ( se more in picture) for a 3-phase system.
I have made a simple wiring diagram over how i´m planning to set it up, am i thinking right?
- I want a 3-phase, for example the heating system needs 3-phase to work.
- UPS-funktion of the whole household
- i want to use as much solar energy i can for myself, more optimised for winter then summer.
- not designing the system to be optimised to sell as much power i can. not selling at ALL right now.
- want to use ESS, have lead-acid batties right now, planning to upgrade to lithium a.s.a.p.
- yes a electrician will connect it all.
I was just hoping a "victron-guru" could take a look and see if i´m totaly off or just maybe close to actually thinking right :-)
I'm looking to replace the stock converter and inverter that came on our rv with a multiplus, but I need a fairly immediate replacement for our converter as it isn't charging the batteries properly and we are 1 week into a month of boondocking. What I'd like to do is just swap out the stock wf-89100a with the multi plus and use it only as a converter until I can get the switches, cables and other components needed to set it up as a inverter. Is this something that's possible? I'd hate to buy a direct replacement converter just to throw it away a month or two from now when I'm ready to do the full make over.
I am installing a Multiplus Compact 12/2000/80 on my boat, with the Digital Multi Control 200/200A Panel.
I would also like to have more access to the inverter settings via Bluetooth - so I was considering installing the VE.Bus Smart Dongle.
My understanding is that the inverter already has a temperature sensor that will be installed directly on the battery negative. The VE.Bus Smart Dongle also provides temperature (either through the unit itself, or with an optional temperature probe).
My question is this: If I install these units together, which temperature will the inverter use? The VE.Bus Smart Dongle temperature, or the temperature supplied by the inverters temperature sensor?
Also - any other gotchas or subtleties I might not be aware of with the inverter/control panel/smart dongle setup would be good to know!
Thanks in advance.
Can I feed the second Multiplus into the AC IN of the first multiplus. I do have got 2 different battery banks with individual solar chargers and 2 multiplus. What configuration is suggested?
Is there a possibility to limit the AC OUT from the second multiplus goiong into AC1 from the first one?
(I do not need to get more max AC power out, just using both battery banks )
Thx for helping!
I'm going to install a smart shunt on my/our boat. Here are some specifics:
12 V system, with 3 batteries. all AGM and 100 Ah each
1 single connected to a night switch
2 in parallel connected to a night switch (call it the house side)
For my install I would like the Smart Shunt on the load side of the night switch
My problem is, my system has both a solar and electric charging possible, which in itself isn't a big deal. However, I want to be able to hook the changing system neg to the load side of the shunt to track charging, which is simple enough. The night switch is the problem, and must remain in place to ensure that I can switch off the single battery while, fishing on the kicker motor, which doesn't charge the system and while the boat is on the trailer or moored or docked and hooked up to shore power.
Or, am I just asking for too much of what I have
Any thoughts on negative charge cable installation to achieve the battery isolation, yet, still track the charging
[image]Recently installed this system in line with a 100 12 V Battle Born battery and a 12 V AIMS Power 1250 W inverter charger. The controller remained with a blue light on bulk but appeared to be charging the battery. Curious if I’m doing something wrong or a voltage threshold hasn’t been met that would activate the absorption or float lights to activate.
[image]What is the correct way to install the smartshunt on my battery bank ?!
I have 2 battery (12v) in parallell, and 2 VE Blue Smart 75/15 charges (synchronize charging)
I have a question regarding the wiring to a Ford F550 with dual alternators. What is the correct wiring point to the battery itself or to the alternator and what amp fuse should be used?
Hallo, ich habe einen SmartSolar 75 / 15, der an die Verbraucherbatterie (2. Batterie) meines VW Busses angeschlossen werden soll. Das Verbindungskabel (Laderegler / Batterie) würde ich gerne mit einem Anderson Stecker versehen, damit ich den Laderegler ohne größeren Aufwand auch an eine andere Batterie, die ebenfalls einen Anderson Stecker erhält, (z.B. die Starterbatterie) anschließen kann. Das Verbindungskabel (Plus) ist mit einer 15 A Sicherung versehen, das Kabel ca. 50 cm lang und hat einen Leitungsquerschnitt von 4mm. Ist dies möglich oder gibt es hierzu Bedenken? Danke für Ihre Rückmeldung. Viele Grüße Joachim
Would it be possible to review this installation on errors or maybe gice some additional advice. The yellow dots represents fuses. Mybe some lines are running not logical but this represents the actual physical situation.
Thank you in advance!!
I'm about out install my Orion and I have a couple location questions.
-It recommends 10cm clearance on both the top and bottom. I'll be right at that. Maybe very slightly less. Being that my location allows me to drill some vent holes behind it, would that help cool it?
-Is there any problem with mounting it on plywood? I know it runs hot, but I'd assume that I don't need to concern myself unless there is plastic or something else that is really sensitive to heat. I could mount it to aluminum brackets if necessary.
I am trying to decide if I want to buy a simple inverter or an inverter charger for my Bighorn 5th wheel. When I am running on the inverter, I want to supply AC power to both legs of my 50 amp AC panel. will the Victron Multiplus 12/3000/120-50 do this? If so, is there anything special I need to do when installing the unit?
[image]I am confused by the Installation Guide for my new BMV-702 to be setup with an auxiliary battery. The Guide shows both battery positive terminals connected “to load”. I only have a single wire supplying power to my travel trailer. Don’t I need a battery cable connecting the two 12v battery positive terminals in order to get the capacity benefit of having the two batteries in parallel? I prefer to connect the load wire to the auxiliary battery – but does it matter?
Hello, I intend to use an Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC charger non-isolated as the battery to battery charger in a motorhome that uses a Schaudt Electroblock EBL29 and currently has 2 Exide GEL 80Ah leisure batteries fitted. Can I install the charger horizontally rather than vertically as suggested in the manual?.
Ill be connecting a Orion smart tr isolated 12/12 30 to my E350, and I had a couple questions:
-Do I need to run a new wire from the alternator, or does the existing/stock connection from the alternator to the starter battery suffice for for this?
-The wires from the starter battery to the orion will be between 15 and 20 feet, does a 6AWG wire suffice for that distance? The chart in the manual is not totally clear about the run length. The chart says minimum 16mm^2 (6awg) at 5meters (16' 5"), but its unclear if 16mm^2 is safe from 2m-5m or for 5m or more.
Can anybody tell me if the installation on the attached diagram is correct to read the midpoint charge on a battery bank. I have the same setup with 12 x 12v bateries.
I am trying to add a new installation on the VRM portal. It is the Victron Ethernet Remote.
After entering the IMEI device and pressing the "Request Access" button, the following message is displayed:
How can I find out who is the administrator of the device and his email and add myself to the administrators?
Installing BMV-712 in a Travel trailer and was wondering if the red wire of the B1 at shunt needed to go only to the actual pos battery post or if running to a pos bus bar nearby gave same results ?
On my boat I have a single 4D as my house battery and a Group 24 as my starting battery. Both are in plastic battery boxes on either side of my engine so the distance between them is about 6-10 feet. These batteries are wired separately. I was going to connect the shunt to the house battery as battery 1. I understand the wiring for that, simply removing the negative cable currently on the battery and placing that on the load side of the shunt and running a short jumper from the battery side of the shunt to the battery, then the small red wire to the positive of that battery.
For connecting the Starting battery, do I simply run the other small red wire to the positive of the starting battery? If needed, can I make a butt connection and extend that wire to reach the other battery? I see in the diagram the negative cable from that battery looks like it should go to the load side of the shunt, but since these batteries are wired separate do I even need to worry about that?
I also have the temp sensor but I think if I am monitoring two battery banks I cannot use that, correct?
Also, where should the shunt be installed? Inside the top cover of the battery box or elsewhere. It is on a boat so not sure about keeping it protected from the bilge area.
I am working on a customer's 2021 Grand Design Solitude fifth wheel here that I'm installing a victron Color Control GX monitor in.
I'm installing a 3,000 W victron inverter. Pre prepping for the new Smart Phase Selector that he got on the waiting list to purchase on release.
He already has aVictron MPPT 250/100 charge controller for the solar array, and a BMV712 battery monitor that I installed when he bought the 5th wheel.
I have some questions about connecting all this gear to the color monitor.
1. The info that I received with the Color Control gx says that the 250/100 charge controller connects to the VE Direct port on the back of the monitor, but the charge controller has VE Can connector on it. Can I use this port to connect to the monitor with cat-6 cable? Or does it have to be VE Direct, if so, I need the correct cable part number to connect it.
2. The BMV712 is listed as VE Direct connected to Color Control GX. I need part number for this cable also. The wire that connects to the display for BMV712 has phone line connector on both ends.
color control gx add-ons require quite a lot of disassembly to install and I'd rather not have to remove these wall panels more than once to get these jobs done.
I appreciate your help in this, and I'm sure my customer will also.
Hi, I have roughly the same requirements as your van install except I don't require 115V. So in summary, it's a 12V system, I have solar which is 2 x 250W into a single Victron MPPT 100/50, a Victron B2B for charging from the alternator, and an electric hook-up. Ideally, I would like to continue to use the MPPT and the B2B, and solar panels. I currently have an inverter but I would like to change to the Victron Inverter/Charger 2000W as per van install. What I would like to know is, 1) is my MPPT compatible with your schematic? 2) Can I use my 18A B2B to charge from the alternator in place of the Buck Boost (including, is it OK to only charge the Lithium batteries at 18A max),?3) Will there be any connectivity issues (e.g. enough ports in the monitor)? 4) Is the grey block in the diagram on the top right the back side of the colour monitor and is the circular grey block in the bottom left by the battery the BMV 712? 5) Can you provide any help with the wiring of the B2B? 6) Do I need to use the GSM module or can I rely on the touch screen and my phone APP. The reason I ask this is because I will be mostly living in Europe and I am not sure whether I want to have another contract for data for the connectivity to the internet.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
im currently in the process of converting a 26t lorry into a motorhome
I want to run normal household 240v things such as a tv, led lights, plug sockets for phone charging, hair dryer, fridge/freezer, microwave and I will have a gas oven and hob.
some places I will be taking it to will have a power supply to plug into which Is great however some places will not have this. My initial thought to resolve this is to have a silent generator, however how would I keep things powered such as the fridge whilst the truck is travelling around??
so do I need to run batteries and somehow convert them to 240v if that’s possible? and charge these via the generator?
thanks in advance for any help
Hey, i'm currently working on a small mobile solar station with a Victron Li-Ion-Battery for education purposes. When the station is outside it should yield its energy via an solar panel and the Victron MPPT charge controller. When not in use, it will probably stay inside for a longer time. For this case it would be great if the battery coulld be charged via the Victron Blue Smart charger off the grid. Is it possible to connect both devices, the Blue Smart Charger and the MPPT solar charger, in parallel to the Li-Ion battery? (VE.Bus BMS will be installed)
To my understanding, since both devices work in the same output voltage range, this shouldn't be a problem.
Many thanks in advance