I am a new owner of a LTV RV and don’t know much about electricity. I hope you will let me know if this is the correct installation of a Victron Smart Shunt for my two lithium batters that are receiving input from 4 solar panels. (photo attached) Thanks.
I just installed a BMV-712 Smart into a Jayco Melbourne 24L. Upon install, it is showing only Voltage readings. If I turn devices on, the voltage falls. If I turn them back off, it climbs backup. If I hook up to 120V, it shows 13.52v. However, it is not showing any amps. This stays at 0amps.
The system is connected to a Duralast 27DC and a Duralast 24MD-DL that are in parallel.
I tried a plethora of sources and videos, but still could not figure out exactly what the issue could be.
Should the second negative wire (chassis ground) of the 24MD-DL battery be connected to the shunt? or because they are in parallel, connected to the Negative of the 27DC?
If I do need the shunt on the other side... is it better to have the shunt closer to the ground? The two compartments are about 5 feet apart as a wire would travel.
Hi, I have a Mplus 12/3000/120.
As I read in the manual, you can install Mplus Horizontal on its back.
Now my question is, can I put it on it's left side (Mechanically wise)?
It will be installed on with the back clamp on the backwall, and rest on the left side on a shelf.
I will make a hole in the shelf to prevent blocking of venthole.
The cabinet itself is forced ventilated, so I dont' expect issues there.
But I want to know sure about the mechanical limitations.
Actually there's more space on both upper and bottom side, instead of when I would install it on it's back :)
I would appreciate some feedback on my Victron installation drawing in general. I also have a question regarding the Victron blue smart IP65 charger.
I am installing this charger in a van. My question is: can this charger be plugged in even if the system is drawing DC power to appliances like the fridge? Also fuse recommendations on for a permanent installation.
Thanks heaps for answers // Henrik
I’ve gotten myself into a little bit of a spaghetti of a mess trying to rely on my memory with everything coming in and out of the control box for my setup...
basically, all wiring and devices are mounted and wired in and out of the control box, making itself and the device easily removable if required because, both my 100ah deep cycle and the control box will be in the wheel well in the back of my Outback.
I’m hoping someone who is kind enough to help me out with putting together a diagram with the appropriate midi holders in place with what I’m trying to achieve here, I’ll be posting up photos shortly also with how far I’ve gotten so far.
Ultimate goal is to have it looking simple but, fully functional with the ability to show customers what’s possible as well as easy access to its fuses if required.
cheers and thanks all!
I’ll note that -
A. Yes I’ll have ventilation added through the box for the MPPT via a Load controlled fan.
B. I haven’t added a Anderson for the Auxiliary Battery as of yet to the box, however - it will be located on the opposite side to the Fridge output
We have different consumers connected to AC1 and AC2 output on our multiplus 12/3000/120 installed in a van. We do have a BMV712 and a Digital Multi Contol connected on the VE.Bus limiting the input current and controlling the battery.
When input is connected to grid, AC1 (with power assist) and AC2 are working fine with input current limit set on multi control.
When we use a generator (Honda 22E Inverter) as input, the multiplus disconencts after some time completely from input even with very low load on AC1/AC2 (far beond power delivery of the generator). AC2 gets offline and does only recover for some short period afte 2 minutes. AC2 alternates on and off.
The multiplus is connected to ground on van chasiss as well as the PEN of input is connected to van chassis. During operation van chassis is grounded by grounding rod.
What is wrong with the configuration? Grounding issue? Specific generator issue?
Can the Battery Monitor BMV-712 be mounted in the wall mount enclosure with the cable hole facing up?
From the manual;
The AC output cable can be connected directly to the terminal block ‘AC-out’.
From left to right: “N” (neutral) , “L2” (phase 2), “PE” (earth) and “L1” (phase 1)
With its PowerAssist feature the Multi can add up to 3kVA (that is 3000 / 120 = 25A) to the output L1 during periods of peak power requirement. Together with a maximum input current of 50A this means that the output can supply up to 50 + 25 = 75 A. An earth leakage circuit breaker and a fuse or circuit breaker rated to support the expected load must be included in series with the output, and cable cross-section must be sized accordingly. Victron Energy recommends to use the Blue Sea systems GFCI circuit breakersPN. 309X or 310X. The maximum rating of the fuse or circuit breaker is 75A.
so it looks like a 75A GFCI main coming into the panel is needed. I can't seem to find the part numbers listed on Blue Sea's website nor do I see any GFCI breaker listed at 75A. I also am having a hard time finding an alternative source for a breaker with these specs can I get a link to something that would work?
I am planning an install of a MultiPlus II in a Winnebago RV that has a "Powerline EMS" The idea behind the device is it manages current draw to make sure the appliances don't draw to much power when connected to 20 or 30 amp service. has anyone installed a multiplus where a powerline or similar EMS system was in place? do you keep it or remove it? my thought is the multiplus will provide similar functionality and the EMS might confuse the multiplus so it should be removed but I would like to hear other opinions.
[image]What is the correct way to install the smartshunt on my battery bank ?!
I have 2 battery (12v) in parallell, and 2 VE Blue Smart 75/15 charges (synchronize charging)
I want to install my Dc to Dc charger at the front of my tear drop travel trailer and do not think it is installed right.
I have black and white neutral wires coming out of my hitch fork to the trailer battery. What minimally do I have to do to make it work at that location (it is in a closed box location) ?.
also, I bridged the ground on my Victron as I don’t need it isolated Can I do that?
I have only 16 inches of vertical space where I would have to install this unit. Would this unit fit if installed vertically and have space for ventilation and wire routing? Could the unit be install horizontally?
Hi! I'm trying to install the BMV-700 for my house batteries on my sailboat. The instructions say to install the shunt between the battery negative and and system ground. I have 3 house batteries connected serially (that I want to monitor) and one starter battery (I don't want to monitor). My problem is that the negative from the house battery is connected to the negative of the started battery before it goes to system ground. And my question is, is it OK to install the shunt between the house battery's negative and the starter battery's one? (See also photo attached, although not super clear). Thank you!!
I have connected my Phoenix Compact Multiplus 12/1600/70 to shore line, but I want to make sure that I am not overcharging my batteries and that the shoreline power is the power I am using.
Can someone give me some helpful tips?
I have connected a standard network cable RJ45 to the inverter and connected that to a MK3 to usb Victron connector which I can plug into my laptop but then I want to connect this to my Raspberry Pi 3+ that is monitoring the solar.
Folgende Konfiguration möchte ich demnächst in Betrieb nehmen.
Siehe Bild: Übersichtsschaltplan 2.pdf
Grid Code VDE-AR-N 4105:2018-11 internal NS protection, LOM Typ B.
Ich habe ein TN-C-S Drehstromsystem, bei dem es normal ist, dass man abhängig von der Last eine Spannung zwischen N und PE misst. Spannungsabfall über den Neutralleiter.
In meinem Fall messe ich bei starker Belastung eine Spannung von rund 5 V.
Nun befürchte ich, dass bei Netzausfall das H-Relais schließt, (N und PE werden gebrückt) und den FI (RCD) auslöst bzw. die Wechselrichter im Inselbetrieb wegen fehlgeschlagenem Test des H-Relais ausschaltet.
Liege ich in meiner Annahme richtig?
Ist es normal, wenn man die Pylontech US3000C, mit eingeschalteten MPPT RS-TR 450/100 einschaltet, das Color Control hochfährt, der MPPT RS-TR 450/100 eine Spannung von 59 V anzeigt und das Pylontech-BMS wegen Überspannung in Störung geht und abschaltet?
Wenn ich die Batterie mit ausgeschaltetem MPPT RS-TR 459/100 einschalte, fährt das Color Control normal hoch und zeigt mir eine Spannung von 49.8 V an, die mit meiner Multimetermessung übereinstimmt.
Woher kommt die Fehlmessung des Pylontech-BMS oder MPPT beim Hochfahren des Systems mit eingeschalteten MPPT RS-TR 459/100?
Die Firmware sind alle auf dem neuesten Stand und die Verdrahtung ist ebenfalls i. O.;-).
Vielleicht kann mich ja jemand aufklären.
Danke und ich wünsche allen einen schönen Vatertag.
I bought the Multiplus 12/500/20.
I just wanted to know how is the correct setting for absorption voltage of 14.7V with the DIP switch.
In the manual on page 17 is written ds2 OFF, ds3 ON; In other way, on page 18 in the second example, is written ds2 ON,ds3 OFF.
Thanks to everyone know the answer
I know that Venus OS is the program running behind the scenes on the GX devices, but I would like to be able to explain to my bus conversion customer what the full capability is. He will buy the CerboGX in about 2 hours if I can explain it well.... no pressure, ha, ha...
Is there a manual, or a statement that states the full intent or ultimate capability of the GX devices running Venus OS? I have configured several CCGX's so I know what the capabilities are, and I was really happy to see Victron integrating tank sensor inputs into GX devices, so I think I'll be able to install a lot of these in customers' systems... I just want to be able to explain the capabilities to them, so they know why they need a GX device.
Thanks in advance,
I'm trying to figure out if Victron inverters are US certified?
My solar installer is saying he can't use Victron because it won't pass inspection in Washington state (US).
I found the below certificates on victron's site, but my installer says he doesn't see a listing for US or at least one that Washington State recognizes so he can't legally install it.
I sent a mail to Victron to ask for clarification, but figured I might post here as well just in case someone here was able to help figure this out.
Quattro 15kVA Certificate
Battery Inverter Certificate
Recently installed a new unit as per instructions, input is wired directly to a starter battery the output to the aux battery. For some reason the start voltage won't go below 16v hence the charging won't engage.
We recently replaced our AGM house batteries with 5 Smart Lithium 12V/200AH (V 1.20) or 1000AH. Added Smart BMS CL 12/100 (V1.06), SBP 12V/220A (V2.08, Bootloader V1.02), SmartShunt 1000A/50mv (V4.05), Cerbo GX (v 2.63)and have a Multiplus Compact 12/2000/80 (V unknown).
1. While sailing and using the electric winch the system reboots. Both motors on.
2. While sailing, motors on, the system rebooted Nav system, autopilot, VHF (12V electrical)
3. Sailing w/o motors -12v electrical quit. Had to restart our engines to restart the 12V system.
4. At the dock we started the generator and we lost the 12V electrical system. The 110/220V system works fine. At this point the 12V system has not returned.
We are working with our Victron Installer and local Victron Rep for the past month as items 1-3 have recurred but the solution has not been found. Any thoughts?
Not shown is the Port side Start and Generator battery which are connected to the starboard side via a Samlex 160 Battery Separator
Are you able to install the multiplus to metal channel? Typically called strut? Or would the metal case short out to the metal racking? Installing in the basement of a fifth wheel, so was planning on the metal strut for structural support.
Hi there. Can I use a AWG 11 (4 mm2) wire to connect the IP22 12V/30A to three 74 Ah/680A wet batteries, at a maximum distance of 2,5m? Also, shall I install fuses between the charger and the batteries? If yes, how many Ampere? Thank you in advance for the hints. Max.
I am looking to build a Multiplus 5000/10kW battery/6.3kWp off grid system in Hungary and looking for a supplier and an installer, ideally one company. There are 3 distributors listed on the Victron site but none of them do installation and they're either not responsive or don't have installation partners.
I'm in south Hungary so if someone from Croatia is interested in taking on a project this size please do get in touch.
Many thanks in advance.
my english skills are not the best. I apologize for that.
My question is: Is it allowed to mount a phoenix smart ip 43 charger horizontally if there is sufficient ventilation? The instructions recommend a vertical installation.
i am planning a solarsystem whit 3x VE MultiPlus-II 48/3000/35-32 ( se more in picture) for a 3-phase system.
I have made a simple wiring diagram over how i´m planning to set it up, am i thinking right?
- I want a 3-phase, for example the heating system needs 3-phase to work.
- UPS-funktion of the whole household
- i want to use as much solar energy i can for myself, more optimised for winter then summer.
- not designing the system to be optimised to sell as much power i can. not selling at ALL right now.
- want to use ESS, have lead-acid batties right now, planning to upgrade to lithium a.s.a.p.
- yes a electrician will connect it all.
I was just hoping a "victron-guru" could take a look and see if i´m totaly off or just maybe close to actually thinking right :-)
I'm looking to replace the stock converter and inverter that came on our rv with a multiplus, but I need a fairly immediate replacement for our converter as it isn't charging the batteries properly and we are 1 week into a month of boondocking. What I'd like to do is just swap out the stock wf-89100a with the multi plus and use it only as a converter until I can get the switches, cables and other components needed to set it up as a inverter. Is this something that's possible? I'd hate to buy a direct replacement converter just to throw it away a month or two from now when I'm ready to do the full make over.
I am installing a Multiplus Compact 12/2000/80 on my boat, with the Digital Multi Control 200/200A Panel.
I would also like to have more access to the inverter settings via Bluetooth - so I was considering installing the VE.Bus Smart Dongle.
My understanding is that the inverter already has a temperature sensor that will be installed directly on the battery negative. The VE.Bus Smart Dongle also provides temperature (either through the unit itself, or with an optional temperature probe).
My question is this: If I install these units together, which temperature will the inverter use? The VE.Bus Smart Dongle temperature, or the temperature supplied by the inverters temperature sensor?
Also - any other gotchas or subtleties I might not be aware of with the inverter/control panel/smart dongle setup would be good to know!
Thanks in advance.
Can I feed the second Multiplus into the AC IN of the first multiplus. I do have got 2 different battery banks with individual solar chargers and 2 multiplus. What configuration is suggested?
Is there a possibility to limit the AC OUT from the second multiplus goiong into AC1 from the first one?
(I do not need to get more max AC power out, just using both battery banks )
Thx for helping!
I'm going to install a smart shunt on my/our boat. Here are some specifics:
12 V system, with 3 batteries. all AGM and 100 Ah each
1 single connected to a night switch
2 in parallel connected to a night switch (call it the house side)
For my install I would like the Smart Shunt on the load side of the night switch
My problem is, my system has both a solar and electric charging possible, which in itself isn't a big deal. However, I want to be able to hook the changing system neg to the load side of the shunt to track charging, which is simple enough. The night switch is the problem, and must remain in place to ensure that I can switch off the single battery while, fishing on the kicker motor, which doesn't charge the system and while the boat is on the trailer or moored or docked and hooked up to shore power.
Or, am I just asking for too much of what I have
Any thoughts on negative charge cable installation to achieve the battery isolation, yet, still track the charging
[image]Recently installed this system in line with a 100 12 V Battle Born battery and a 12 V AIMS Power 1250 W inverter charger. The controller remained with a blue light on bulk but appeared to be charging the battery. Curious if I’m doing something wrong or a voltage threshold hasn’t been met that would activate the absorption or float lights to activate.