My Multiplus 12/3000 calls for a 400A Class T fuse. Many suppliers are out of stock but I find that some Class T fuses available are slow blow and some are fast acting JJN and extremely fast acting TJN. What type does Victron recommend?
Trying to use the Lynx Distributor (and Power In) without the Lynx Ion Shunt or BMS (using BYD batteries). I had assumed the Fuse LEDs would illuminate with a working fuse in place and powered, however a line on the old Victron Live page for DC Distribution Systems suggests that this small data cable is used to power the LEDs (rather than taking power from the busbar itself). I cannot get the LEDs to illuminate - are the LEDs useless unless using the Lynx Shunt? Because Lynx Shunt uses CANbus, it cannot be used in conjunction with BYD on a CCGX (though I think VGX would support it).
Hi! I'm about to purchase a Lynx Distributor, but the Mega fuse sizing is giving me trouble. I've already checked these sources ...
... but I want people to check my math. The system has a 24V flooded lead acid battery. After I've found out current, do I choose a 32V fuse for the same current?
Slot 1/ Multiplus II 24V 3000VA
- Maximum load is 5500W / 24V = 229A
- Mega fuse 225-250A/32V ?
Slot 2/ Solar charge controller
- Maximum inflow is 1440W / 24V = 60A
- Mega fuse 60-70A/32V?
Slot 3/ Wind charge controller
- Maximum inflow is 800W (actually less than 30W...) / 24V = 33A
- Mega fuse 35A/32V ?
Slot 4/ Victron non-isolated DC-DC converter 24V->12V
- Maximum load is 200W / 24V = 8A
- Mega fuse 8-10A/32V ?
Also, in the left side of the distributor I will be connecting the battery bank with external fuse and SmartShunt. I also need to power the Cerbo GX. The manual says it is preferred to be powered by the bus bar instead of a conveter. Can I connect it to the left side also with the battery, because it has it's own slow blow 3.1A fuse?
The final problem is that 60A/32V are smallest Mega fuses widely available. I've seen a few 50A/32V. Is there anything smaller for my case for slot 4? Thanks!
what fuse should be used to protect the 48V input of a Multiplus 2? Can it be a Megafuse 125A 58V in a Victron Lynx distributor or does it have to be an NH00 fuse?
Designing an all Victron Li system for my Sprinter van. I have a 220 amp alternator and while I know that I may not be able to use half that for charging my house system, I want to be able to use as much as the system will allow. So I got a BMS 12/200 thinking it would allow up to 200 amp charging. Now I see that the input (AB) is limited to 80Amps when using a 100 Amp fuse. That's still a lot, and maybe more realistic about what I can expect but still not 200. It seems installing a larger fuse would allow more, but elsewhere it says this is limited to 80 amps.
And nowhere do I see a table of fuses I can use on the LB side. I have the multiPlus 12/3000 and other loads on the LB side - I want to put a big old fuse in there but how big?
I am sizing a fuse/wiring for this inverter. Would I be right in saying the peak power is double (so 2400W) and so my fuse size should be 200A? We are using power heavy tools so expect that they may dip into the surge capacity when spooling up. Also, is there an internal fuse built in, and if so what size?
what size fuse do I need between MPPT 150|35 Victron and my battery bank? (battery bank is 400aH 12V (2x 200aH)
Hi there , hopefully someone can help me figure out what's wrong with my setup and why my 40amp fuses keep popping. It seems to be only the fuse on the positive cable that keeps popping.
Hi. need some info on which size breaker I need for my solar array and for my battery as I have little knowledge on this. PV array will be 4x200w renorgy panals. (isc- 10.9)(Vmp-21v)(imp 9.2v) in series and will have 300ah lithium battery from CANBAT. thank you
The Quattro 10000KVA manual recommends x2 50mm sq wire and a 400amp fuse. Is that 2x 200amps or 2x 400amps?
As background, the 2x 50mm sq is equal to 2x 1/0 AGW. A single 1/0 can carry 150amps, so two pieces equals 300amps.
I have a Victron MPPT 100/30 solar charge controller and I’m trying to fuse it in my victron lynx distributor before if connects to the battery. I cannot find a 30 amp MEGA fuse to connect fuse the solar charge controller at the lynx distributor. Is there such a thing as a 30 amp mega fuse because I cannot find one or what should I do to fuse this solar charge controller properly at the lynx distributor?
Orion-Tr Smart 24/12-20A (240W) Isolated DC-DC converter: External Fuses
I am confused about external fuses required in a system with the above device.
The spec shows 25Amp maximum current under nominal operating voltage and 50Amp short circuit on the 12V output channel.
But the fuse advice in the manual is for 30 amps on the 24V channel and 60 amps on the 12V channel - surely these are too high?
I am specifying the integration of this component and am looking at advising 25Amp (24 volt channel) and 50Amp (12 volt channel)
Any confirmation would be appreciated.
I blew the small glass fuse that goes in the red power wire for the SmartShunt 500A. Finding a replacement is proving difficult. I can't believe the fuse information isn't cited in the manual. Stunning omission. Between my smartphone & a magnifer, I can read some information off the fuse, but when I type what I see in a search, I'm not sure I'm finding the correct replacement.
Anyone been there & done that?
Victron - what the heck were you thinking by not including that information??
Thank you for your time in advance, Setup is for an Electric van with a fridge unit, with PV power to top up batteries.
- 2 x 115W PV panels in series (40A inline fuse) after MPPT before DC BUS
- 1 x MPPT 100/30
(both those elements wired to bus bar) 150A
Connected to Bus bar is
1 x Fridge unit, which draws 50/70amps when under load, with built in 100A / 12V charger system, to charge batteries. Fused at 125A as shown.
1 x Smart Shunt (all negative loads pass through)
2 x212AH 12V Lithium batteries in parallel
- When the 12V charger (rated to 100A) charges the batteries, the charging current is flowing through the whole circuit. What stops the 40A fuse on the + line of the MPPT not blowing, or will it blow ? as current passes through the MPPT as it will happily give voltage of the battery etc.
What can I do, is there a risk of 'back current' or similar, as I am worried, that when I will blow the fuse before the MPPT when I turn the charger on.
I have done a similar setup before where I have not fused the MPPT, but I understand its best practise to do so.
My Bluesolar MPPT 150/85 ceased correct operation after a small short on the pv side (unfortunately between PV panel fuses and MPPT )
First it showed a warning "inf 21 " then after complete discconnecting no more error messages but now
- current reading is 0 A , but PV current seems to be simply passed through
- measured current from PV is 7 amps ( cloudy ) and output current is exactly identical
- Voltage on panel is battery voltage + approx 0,7 V
- No MPPT function -
Is there anthing likee a fuse or so ?
Anything I can do ?
Hi, I have a blue smart IP22 charger 12v/30a.
The charger isn't showing any signs of voltage, and it does not charge my battery. When plugged into the mains power, the charger starts up, and I can connect to it via Bluetooth. Just no dc power output.
I've tried a few different cables, no dice.
I tried to take out the fuse by just pulling it, no dice.
I tried to unscrew the screws next to the fuse blade that I thought was holding the fuse in, the screws just spin in its place and not actually coming out. No dice.
What do I do to actually replace the fuse, or know anything else to try?
Im trying to find out the fuse needed for this schematic that I want to install in an off-grid
I would install 4 2.4kW Pylontech batteries.
The MPII manual suggests to install 200A fuse but I think it might be too much for this?
The SmartSolar MPPT 75/15 has a build in fuse. But what does it secure, and should I add an extra one.
Is it securing the Battery, or the Load. And does it make sense to add another one?
The load would go to my distribution panel (formerly connected to the hitch) and has a fuse of itself. Of course I would add a fuse as close to the battery itself as possible, but the MPPT is like 40cm away from it, lead wise.
I am assuming putting a fuse on the solar panels would not make sense. Yes, I can short them, but I would want it to be able to deliver its maximum capacity without blowing, and it seems silly to add a fuse for more Amps then the Solar can deliver.
If the fuse on my mppt 75/15 blows are my panels still putting power into the controller ? I know that the 20 amp fuse is on the battery output and i know i should connect my battery before the solar panels so what is the fuse blows ?? will the output from the panels damage the controller ??
I am using a Multiplus 24/3000/70-16 in my motorhome and I'd like to carry some spare fuses for every fuse build in. So before starting to disassamble the device and find out myself, could you tell me what is a complete set of spare fuses needed.
In the VE.Bus BMS manual, the installation diagram for a Multiplus shows a
"System on/off switch" connected to the Battery + on the BMS
And it shows a fuse connected between the switch and the battery positive terminal
I have circled them both in green below:
How Change Fuse/Circuit Breaker in Quattro 3kw on AC1-Out?
Question: I have a 220v boat with 3kW Quattro. I recently experience a power surge from my shore power and now I can’t get shore power on my boat.
The manual seems to suggest that when one has an overload situation and Charger is not working, one should replace fuses/circuit breaker from AC1-Out or AC2-Out. However, the manual does NOT specify how to change them or how to locate them ( which fuse is for AC1-Out and which is for AC2-Out.
Background: My shore power comes in via AC1-In and my Genset comes in via AC2-In. I know that manual stipulates Genset should be on AC1-In and AC2-In is for shore power. The previous owner installed Quattro and it works so I didn’t change it. We had no problem with Quattro until now.
After the power surge, the inverting function of Quattro still works and Genset charging via AC2-In also works. However, the shore power does NOT.
Our actions: We disconnect the AC1-In wires (ie live neutral and earth) and did voltage test and we saw 240V so we are confident that current flow from the dock to Quattro. However, once we connect the 3 wires back to AC1-In, no shore power.
We even move the 3 wires in AC1-In (Shore Power) to AC2-In Connection and still no shore power.
We also move 3 wires in AC2-In (Genset) to AC1-In as stipulated in manual. We were surprised to find when we did this, Genset also CANNOT charge.
Once we moved Genset wires to AC2-In connection then Genset can charge the battery and produce 240 AC for the boat.
Based on above, can you confirm that:
1) Is changing fuse/circuit breaker on AC1-Out is the right remedy?
2). If so what is the procedure to locate and change the fuses? What are the proper fuse size? 250 ah? (3000watt/12V).
On the recent Blog post, Jono shows the BMS 12/200 with a 200amp fuse across AB. Victron spec sheets indicate 100amp fuse maximum. I do not have enough info on how or why this is OK @Jono (Victron Energy Staff)
Little confused about battery wire requirements and fuses for using the Multiplus II with Pylontech batteries. It would seem that you have to use Pylontech branded cables as the batteries have a proprietary connector on one end to go into the battery. I can see in the manual it recommends 35mm2 cable and a 125A fuse. My dealer gave me a 200A fuse, I read on here, someone else had their distributor give them an 80A fuse. Confusion number one!
Confusion number two, I can't see what the cables provided by Pylontech are in terms of thickness, there doesn't seem to be a rating on them. But like I say, they have a special connector on them so it would seem you have to use them? Confusion number two!
Then finally, I have seen two installers here in the UK, who don't have a breaker, isolator or fuse on their installs between inverter and battery. Mind you, one of them also puts the batteries below the inverter, which the manual pretty clearly says not to do! Confusion number three! See pics.
Any help advice, particularly from someone who has Pylontech batteries would be much appreciated.
looking for the max fuse rating of these panels if anyone can find it I have searched internet with no result.
using 3 x 175 wired in parallel in a small system
Hello, I have the SmartSolar 100/20 and am wondering what the 25A fuse built into the unit is protecting. I assume it's not for the solar input since that current will vary greatly depending on panel type. Is the fuse in line with the battery connection or the load connection? I plan to fuse the panels, load and battery connection, but don't need to be redundant since it seems like either the battery or load connection is already fused.
Followup question, the manual says on page 11 for the 75/10 and 75/15 model it says that the "automatic load disconnect" and the "continuous load current" is 15A. On page 12 it says that continuous load current is 15A for the 100/15 and 20A for the 100/20. That all makes sense, But then also on Page 12 it says for the "automatic load disconnect": "Yes, maximum load 15A resp. 20A". I would have thought it would have a separate column for the 100/15 (15A) and the 100/20 (20A) I would assume that the resp means 20A for the 100/20 version but you know what they say about assuming... On the temperature compensation it also uses "resp" but that is referring to 12 or 24V, want to make sure that the load current on the 100/20 is not voltage dependent.
I got the MPPT SmartSolar 100/20 controller a few weeks ago and have so far tested it with solar panels and lead-acid batteries, both in 12V and 24V configurations, and everything's worked fine.
Now however I just got a LiFePO4 battery, 8 cells connected in series for 24V but when trying to connect the battery to the controller (no panels or anything else connected) I get a strong spark and then the controller's (25A) fuse blows. Batteries seem to work as they should, showing voltage of 26.16V. I haven't tried connecting any loads yet.
What could be the issue here? And what should I do to troubleshoot?
I will be adding my solar panels this weekend to the boat and want to check where I should have fuses.
At the moment the wiring from the 4x 150W panels will be 2x parallel then the 2x parallel in to series before going to the Victron MPPT 150/60 via MC4 connections. Should I have a fuse on the +ve input to the MPPT? There is then a 32A DC DIN Mount Breaker 125V MCB C curve on the +ve going to the batteries.
Secondly i’ll be putting an ET-112 from my onboard generator to give me power info to my Venus GX (no multiplus or Quattro onboard) I see there is a fuse to go on the neutral side of the ET-112 but it doesn’t say how much it should be, the generator is a Paguro 4SY, that puts out 3.5KW @230V.
I have a Victron 150/45 MPPT with a 500w solar panel.
I am using 6mm2 cable as specified in the manual. That's suitable up to 50A.
The MPPT is 45A.
The fuse should be above normal current draw but below cable size - so between 45A and 50A!
What size fuse/breaker should I use? Or should I use bigger wire than the manual specifies so I can use a 50A fuse?
Can someone confirm the correct fuse size to use ? I am thinking of using a 150A fuse.
My logic is -
When charging - the max it could throw to the batteries is 70A. When inverting the max it could be pulling from the batteries is 1600W / 12v = 133A plus about 10% = 150A.
So a 150A fuse would cover charging and inverting.