Installed a MultiPlus 1600 12/70 onto a sailing vessel, but it does not charge the 630AH 12v Exide Gel Battery Bank with more than max 13,3 volt. So, when shore power or the vessels AC generator is putting in 230v AC to the multiplus and the unit/charger makes a lot of annoying noise, the battery bank actually continues to discharge. The unit is brand new with all settings set as default.
The point of installing a new Victron Multiplus was to utilize the 70 AMPs charger to charge the battery bank faster especially from the boats 230v AC generator, when the other suppliers of current from the ship (wind turbine, hydro generator and solar) wouldn't be able to cope with consumption. So, the charger-unit has to go into full charge voltage of 14,4v (no more) with 70 AMPs charging current instantly when the MultiPlus is powered from an AC source. even when the battery bank is already charged 90%. The battery bank always must be fully charged before passages or before nights at anker etc. as we don 't want to run the generator when sailing or when sleeping.
Is the Multiplus 1600/12/70 capable of delivering what ordinary stand alone charges can? Or will I have to return the unit to the seller as a faulty product (a battery charger has to be able to charge instantly also on a nearly fully charged battery bank) and reinstall my old Clayton 1213 Sinus Inverter together with a new 70 AMPs ordinary battery Charger?
The starter battery negative terminal is connected to my van's chassis (as per usual) and my leisure battery negative terminal is connected to the chassis via a 20mm2 wire. I have just ordered an Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-18 Isolated DC/DC Charger; I didn't need the isolated version as my batteries are already bonded via the chassis but it was cheaper than the 30A non-isolated version. I will connect the starter and leisure batterie's positive terminals to the Orion-Tr via 20mm2 wire.
My question is, given that the two batteries negative terminals are already connected via 20mm2 wire and the vehicle chassis, can I connect the negative input and output of the Orion-Tr to the chassis/battery negative with thinner wire (say 6mm2 or even 2.5mm2)?
From my limited understanding of electrics, I would think that the Orion-Tr just needs the negative wire to be able to power itself and sense the voltage of the two batteries and the current path will be through the vehicle chassis as that will be lower resistance.
I have attached a Wiring Diagram.jpg for clarity.
Does anyone have a clear profile for the oasis firefly battery? Preferable someone with experience and knows it works over time.
Hello, I just installed my brand new mppt smart 100/50, every day, at the same time, if it is sunny and clear, around 2 pm, the app show me a fluctuating wattage, reaching around 700 Watts then falling down on 0, going ahead for 30 minutes, constant voltage but fluctuations in current. Then stable on 130/140 Watts, till the evening, where, against the logic, I have back 250/260 Watts.
My panels array is providing 1100 Watts (ideally) i also checked all the wiring, everything it seems working.
Anyone knows the possible reason? I am gonna damage my battery pack, thanks in advance to you all.
I just finished building my battery bank (4S 202Ah Lishen A-grade) and I now want to initialise the battery using my new IP65 12/15 charger. The manufacturer sent along a detailed data sheet where a charging end voltage per cell of 3.65V (x4 = 14.6V) is specified. I programmed the BMS to cutoff at that voltage accordingly.
My question now is: Which settings do I use with the 12/15 charger to fully charge/initialise the battery? I want to top balance the pack and then use the Orion-Tr in my vehicle to recharge it. The initialisation/top balance step will have to occur now. And then just once in a blue moon...
Normal (which I understand is for lead acid batteries, is rated at 14.4V) and Li-Ion (14.2) both seem too low, and High (14.7V) seems too high. Inside the app I can select a preset "LiFePO4" profile, but this also has a setting which to me seems too low: 14.2V absorption and 13.5V float and storage, as 14.2V/4cells = 3.55V
Maybe I am getting something wrong? I'd greatly appreciate your help with this.
We are experiencing a over heating problem on a bank of 5 x 125a/h super cycle batteries on our narrowboat. Runs fine off-grid using just solar, but I get an over heating alarm when using the engine alternator or shore power to charge. Batteries actually get too hot to touch after cruising for a few hours. This is a recent development, batteries are just 3 years old. Any advice would be much appreciated?
[image]2003 mercury 25hp 4stroke
I have the IP65 12V/15A blue smart charger and would like to use it to charge a bank of two Optima D27 AGM batteries 66Ah each. (Wired in parallel)
Is it ok to use the single IP65 to charge both batteries by connecting it to positive of one battery and negative of the other.
BMV 700 shows batteries at 100% charge, but solar charge controller still shows it's in a state of bulk charge. I have checked both manuals, checked settings for both are in line with what's in the manuals... any ideas please?
Battery Voltage shows as 13.15V
Solar Charge Controller Settings:
Should I be increasing the charged voltage to 14.2?
Why is the BMV showing 100% charged when the charged voltage has not been achieved?
I have a SmartSolar MPPT 75/10 controller with a Renogy 100w panel charging my BatteriesPlus X2 Power group 31. Every few days I will see barely any charge for the day. When I check the app, I will see 20v on the panel, and usually just over 12v on the battery, yet 0w from the panel. If I put a load on the battery, and bring it just below 12v, I will start getting a charge. Additionally, if i disconnect the controller from both the panel and the battery, and then reconnect it, it will suddenly start working fine again for a few days.
I am new to solar and completely lost on this. I hope someone can help me out. I attached some screenshots if they help.
I have a battery monitor on my Mastervolt Combi system control panel with the shunt on the -ve side of the battery bank (420Ah 12V). I have 2 banks of PV into 2 Smartsolar MPPT 100/20's.
Three hours after coming off shore power at 100% charge the Mastervolt says 30% power left, 313ah used and discharging at about 7.5A with 13.56V. Victronconnect on the MPPT's says Solar = 42V, 1 to 3A, 50W network. Battery 13.6V, 3.3A and Float.
What's going on? Am I assured that the Mastervolt is telling lies? Maybe I have the -ve side of the MPPT on the wrong side of the shunt. What side should it be on?
I have a small RV electricity setup including a MultiPlusCompact 12/2000-80, two solar charger MPPT 100/50 and 30 currently without solar panels (waiting for the right weather to mount them on the roof) and a Smart TR-Orion B2B Loader. The MultiPlus is connected to the Bluetooth smart dongle.
My setup is equipped with a LiFePO4 battery from Offgridtec. Due to the space I have available I was not able to use a Victron Battery. The are simply too high for my double floor.
I did a software update of all devices and since then the MultiPlus did not load the battery. The app simply showed Failure (Störung in German). I stopped and started the MultiPlus and now it charges the battery with 50 Amps. Which is correct as the battery was only 80% charged, but it shows the Status Storage in the App and a Loading current of 0 Amps. If I look into the BMV and the BMS of the Offgridtec battery both show the 50 Amps charging current. So the MultiPlus State is clearly wrong displayed. Any suggestions what to do?
Thank you for your support
The pictures are all taken at more or less the same time.
I have 4 batteries connected for 24v 400ah bank, I need to know which voltage to use for a 50% discharge and 30% discharge, also which optimal float and charging voltage. If someone knows which charging parameters to use on that inverter, it will be appreciated.
How does the 3 output behave with only one battery connected? Is the total charge output divided among the three outputs regardless? For example if only one battery is connected to the 3 output model would it get a 30 amp charge or a 10 amp charge. If the output is divided can all three outputs be hooked up to one battery?
I have bought components which are not yet installed in a campervan conversion:
110ah leisure battery (wet bog standard):https://www.tayna.co.uk/leisure-batteries/enduroline/exv110/
380W JA Solar panel
Victron Smart Solar 100/30
Victron Orion tr Smart 12/12-30
I'm concerned about overcharging my leisure battery during the bulk phase of charging. Both the smart solar and orion will be connected to the battery in parallel. When driving on a hot day, I could be bulk charging the battery with 60a. I have no battery specs, so I gather general advice is to charge at a max of 0.2C or 20A. I see I can limit the output of the mppt, but the Orion will not limit current during the bulk phase. I gather the battery will utilise available current, especially when depleted.
I'm uncertain whether to buy the 18a Orion instead of the 30a. Even then, whether I need to switch between the mppt/ Orion so only one feeds the battery at a given time.
Or potentially whether the mppt could accept the Orion output and the solar as dual inputs, then I could limit the mppt output to 20a.
I realise opinions vary on the 'right' bulk charge rate for batteries, I just don't want to overheat the battery so I'd like to aim for approx 0.2c /20A.
I've got two panels in series that I want to use for 3 purposes: 1. Run my camping refrigerator (12v, 50 watts, 240 wh LiFPo batteries) 2. Charge my ebike battery (52v 556 wh Li-ion). 3) Run 120v power tools using an inverter (12v 504 wh SLA batteries). In another post Victron said running multiple MPPTs in parallel was not intended, nor tested, but didn't explain what the dangers or disadvantages of this was. What are they? If this can't be done, is it possible to programmatically turn off the PV input to Smartsolar MPPT 75/10 & 100/30 controllers.
Is the the smart battery protect able to have the disconnect set high(~27)volts and the re-connect set low(~26.2) volts.
I would like to put it in front of an ac2dc charger to terminate/resume charging like a drinking bird.
I accidentally ran my solar-charged battery flat (I have a Easy Solar 1600VA Inverter). The app says that the recharge time is 'infinite'. Does mean my battery is dead forever?
I have a strange issue, which is probably just me not knowing...
I have a BM-712 and MPPT 100 Solar Controller installed in my camper to a couple 165W solar panels. The system is basically wired like this (https://community.victronenergy.com/storage/attachments/4583-screen-shot-2019-07-29-at-93141-am.png) without the Color Controller. This past weekend, the voltage of the battery was reporting ~10V but the charge was showing 100%. When the sun came up and the solar started to work, the charge would go up throughout the day. I also used shore power through a generator to augment the charge. As soon as I unplugged the generator, the battery went back down to ~10-11V. I connected a NOCO trickle charger and it was at 25%.
Today, I pulled the battery out completely to recondition. The BM-712 showed 13V. The solar was still connected. I would have expected that, since the BM-712 is only monitoring the battery, it would show only battery voltage and not any solar charging. Of course once I turned off the solar breaker, the BM-712 went to zero.
My questions: How can I get the correct percentage to report on the BM-712 and why would a voltage show on the BM-712 with no battery connected?
Can somebody please help me in deciphering the attached charging curves of a Chinese made deep cycle sealed battery. The battery sellers who are reputable by the way are not helping much.
I have 2 x 2 victron agm 220 ah in series-parallel for 24 volt 440ah.
My midpoint deviation measured by smart shunt is around 0 to 0,3 % maximum.
This is up to 0,0 to 0,07 Volts difference.
When batteries are charging and in absorption stage the deviation is up to 0,7-0,8%
After charging is finished, deviation slowly goes back to 0 - 0,2
What is an acceptable value for this?
My alarm is setup around 2 percent by deviation (standard)
All is connected by busbars and equal cable lengths.
Setup is protected by battery ballancer.
Batteries are 2 weeks old and setup is as wel.
Can i expert higher or lower values?
Best regards and thanks in advance!
(2) MPPT 150/70
(1) Cerbo GX
(2) Trace 2500w Inverters
Boon-docking now for day #4 with no issues - 100% solar and lithium. Each day has had consistent daylight with full charge by EOD with lowest charge only reaching 60% before mid-morning when the sun begins to hit the solar panels again.
However, last night (day 5) the voltage reader has dropped to 9.47V - but the charge on the reader still says 73% charged?
What am I missing? How do I get back above 12V?
I have the MPPT 100/20 that feeds an Optima AGM type 25 aux battery in my Jeep's engine bay.
I am really confused about the battery setting and being challenged in everything electrical, I wold like to know which preset would best fir the Optima AGM batter? From what I have read, the preset 1 or 2 would likely fit best- BUT - the AGM battery I have is a spiral one and so the preset for AGM Spiral seems to be better suited. HOWEVER, the settings according to what I have read appear to be too high according to the chart here: https://deepcyclebatterystore.com/do-not-use/battery-charge-settings-agm-vs-flooded-vs-gel/
So... which is it... :)
Thanks in advance.
Hi Folks...i've just bought a new 'EasySolar 48/5000/70-100 MPPT 150/100 Color Control ' ...i have a battery bank of 24 x 2v 720ah lead carbon batteries in good condition which have worked fine on my old inverter set up and were being charged well with my genny - a Lister type diesel driving a WarnePower st-5kw alternator , single phase 240v , excit. volt 49v , excit curr. 2.6A , ...The guy i bought this 'all in one easy solar' from says that my generator can't work with the Victron to charge my battery bank and is trying to sell me one of his generators....he has made a lot of mistakes installing this Victron set up and seems more like a salesman than a tech guy - my question is whether or not i really need to buy another generator (we are off-grid) - should that generator/alternator be able to charge my batteries via the Victron all in one - or not ; it was charging that same battery bank fine before i upgraded to the Victron ?.
Many thanks, in anticipation............ Paul Mcguire
My Victron MultiPlus 12/1600 / 70-16 does not charge with more than 50A ... it should be able to charge with 70A according to spec. Have you experienced anything similar? Do you have an explanation for what limits the charge?
The battery is not the limit, I can charge with significantly higher power with the generator. Attach my settings. The charge is about 60A in the beginning, the solar panel is alive. 10A and Multin 50A ....
I just finished my planned install of Victron product on our 1977 Trojan F26 boat: BMV712, Orion Smart 12-12/30, Victron MPPT 30 (for 2- 170W PV in parallel), AND 1 Victron IP67 battery charger = all running to/from 2 Battle Born 100AH LiFEPO4 house bank, in parallel. One 70AH FLA starter/engine battery with Victron Battery Sense. All are working fine and having the Bluetooth feature is a great benefit.
Here’s the “Silly Question”: When I unplug the IP67 from the AC power socket in the boat the LED lights stay on. I’m sure this is due magical doodads in the IP67 slowly “blinking out” from the lack of AC life support, but it freaked me out so I wound up disconnecting the IP67 negative lead from the house bank just be sure the IP67 was “dead”…it the LEDs went off.
How long does it take the IP67 to “die” (ie LEDs to turn off) after it’s unplugged from AC power?
I am considering adding a 12v 100 or 200ah SmartPack battery to my RV. It currently has a SmartSolar 75/15 charge controller and Smart Battery Sense installed on it. What I am not clear on is if the BMS in the SmartPack can limit power draw sufficiently when the trailer is plugged Into the tow vehicle and the vehicle alternator will charge the battery. The tow vehicle has a 139amp alternator. I understand that the BMS on the SmartPack will limit the charge current to 50amps but I doubt the wiring to the aux power pin on the 7 way trailer plug and beyond can handle this amount of current. If I need a DC to DC converter such as the Smart BMS CL 12/100 am I better off getting a Smart series battery? I would like the whole setup to communicate over the Smart network.
I'm using 3 quattros with 3 phase AC inputs (phase 1 - quattro 1, phase 2 - quattro 2, phase 3 - quattro 3) and Pylontech lithium batteries. The ACin 2 terminals are used as AC input instead of ACin 1 terminals since it is a bit congested with cables on the ACin1 terminals side.
Both AC out terminals on each quattro are used to output 3 phase system. AC out 1 is powering small loads and AC out 2 is powering bigger loads. The system is designed to act as a UPS, providing power to only essential loads (AC out 1) when electricity's cut off from the grid. I followed this link: https://www.victronenergy.com/live/battery_compatibility:pylontech_phantom to configure the system. Now, I have two issues:
1. When the quattros are turned on and the AC input breaker is switched on, only quattro 1 appears to be drawing current from the mains whereas the other two quattros do not have any current. This means only quattro 1 is charging the batteries and the other two quattros do not charge the batteries. This is clear by the lit bulk charge LED on quattro 1 while the charging LEDs on the other two are not lit. Below are some more info about the system.
Battery capacity: 28,416Wh (3,552Wh x 8 batteries)
Quattro: Victron Quattro 48/10000/140-100/100 x 3
2. With the AC in main breaker still switched on, I measured the AC out voltages on all inverters. Apparently all AC out 1 terminals have 220V and it is fine. However, the AC out 2 terminals have only 20V. When the grid power is available, AC out 2 terminals should have 220V. Only when the grid is not available, AC out 2 should be cut off.
Could anyone please figure out how to fix these 2 issues? Thanks.
Before installing my system in my motorhome, I wanted to submit to your experiences on this installation.
The green part is the support panel. The cables pass through the rounds to pass to the rear. This forms like a door with a hinge to facilitate assembly and to carry out subsequent additions of elements. The dimensions of all elements are exact dimensions in mm. The thin cables are in 2.5mm2 or VE.Direct or USB, the medium ones in 16mm2, the batteries in 35mm2. The battery fuses are 175 ANL. The red lines are + or Line or Phase, the black lines are - or Neutral.
No cables cross and the support panel is 80 cm x 60 cm, made of fireproof wood. Did I miss something in this assembly diagram?
I thank you in advance.
I'm struggling with system always resetting to 100% SOC when the solar charger kicks in. I've tried to increase the absorbtion voltage slightly (0,25V above the same in MultiPlus), but it still resets. Today it was showing 82% and as soon as the solar charger kicked in it reset to 100% again.
I have the following setup:
1x 300Ah lithium battery + 105Ah AGM starter battery
2x 160W solar panels
MultiPlus C 12|1600|70
Cerbo GX + Touch 50