charger

The need...

On a boat we have a power snorkel (think diving using an air tube with an air pump floating overhead) and looking to change the AGM batteries over to a Lithium battery. However, naturally, it’s not that simple.

We have an Enerdrive LiFePo setup charges by a Phoenix when on shore power and a 100/30 mppt smartsolar plus alternators while at sea. Don’t want to include the 240v/Inverter in the charging setup as it chews power on standby and the batteries run down when the boat is not in use.

So the simple part of the requested recommendation is for a lithium friendly charger to run off the 12 DC circuit tocharge the new Lifepo4.

The second more complex issue is that because the power snorkel is not used that often the battery sits idle for weeks, months some times. I would like to store the battery at around 50% if charge and it would be brilliant if someone could recommend a way of charging to 50% !!! Weird huh!! But I think you know why!

Anyway, that’s the two part request.

Thanks in advance

Mick

Any idea on the size of the front panel screw on the Multiplus 12/3000? I had one escape into the bilge.

Cheers, RickG

Hello everyone,
On a 12/30 phoenix charger, would someone know if the auxiliary charge output (engine battery) is independent of the main outputs?
I just installed solar panels on the main circuit and I find a current return on the normal secondary battery completely isolated. someone would know where the problem comes from, thanking you all,
Alex.

In a situation where the load is very critical and to ensure that we have a perfect wave at the output of the quattro, I would like to know if it is possible to configure the quattro as a double-conversion equipment.

In other words, the charger and the inverter are always working and the equipment does not make transfer switch.

I think, quattro does not allow this kind of configuration, but if it is possible or there is another solution to get around the problem thank you in advance for your suggestions.

I have a Victron multi 12 500 and I'm going to install it in my campervan.

The 16mm2 cable will run from the multi through a 100A breaker to a positive bus and then on to the 12v house batteries.

The other 16mm2 cable will run from the multi to the negative bus which is connected (earthed) to the starter battery. The negative bus is also connected to the negative of the house batteries.

Should I still connect the earth point on the multi to the chassis? If so what size cable should I use?

Thanks!

Some burned components at print board need to be replaced. Not possible to see what kind of component it is. Please help me.

Regards eswerner

I have a customer with an older 3kw Grid connect solar system. We want to connect a Multiplus 2 with a lithium battery as a piggyback on the mains AC buss with an energy meter (multiplus intput on mains buss). The output of the multiplus we want to connect to essential house services. Any excess solar that would normally be exported will be used to charge the battery and run essential services, the grid will not be used to charge the battery. When the grid is down for extended periods the customer wants to be able to connect a generator to the multiplus input to run essentials and charge the battery. My question is, with minimal user intervention, how can I tell the multigrid it is ok to charge from the generator? it doesn't know if it's connected to the grid or a generator, it's not allowed to charge from the grid, but is from a generator? All I can find is the charge current control assistant, but I think this will interfere with the excess solar charge.

We have been offered to swap a used 3 output charger that we need to allow friends to use a 1 output charger that we will buy. Charger is around 3 years old. Thoughts really appreciated. Thanks

Greetings to all.

I have on board a Victron Centaur 24v/80A charger charging a bank of 2x2 12V/225Ah lead acid batteries. Recently the batteries started to heat and loose water, when I went to diagnose I found out that the charger is outputting 29.8V regardless of dip switch setting. I found that there is a potentiometer inside and tried adjusting that but I could only reduce the voltage to 29.6V with strange pulsing noise from internal SMPS like it is running on minimum pulsing. I cannot leave the charger like this,it will destroy the batteries. Did someone encounter a similar problem? Is there a solution or should I just buy another charger? This one is about 4yrs old so if its gone already I think I will consider another brand. The one I replaced lasted over 12 yrs. Oh,I tried replacing the batteries with another bank new batteries but the charger is still outputting 29.6V.

Hello.

I was just wondering if it was possible to use the Blue Smart (IP22) charger (or any other battery charger) if its input is modified sine-wave? I'm thinking of buying one, but my generator does not have pure sine-wave output.

I understand that the SmartSolar chargers have a built-in profile for charging LiFePO4 batteries, but I'm wondering if that profile merely represents a set of values that can otherwise be set arbitrarily to charge an "arbitrary" battery. For instance, a lithium cobalt battery with a voltage that is not a multiple of 12. I'm also not entirely clear on how to select the bulk and float voltages for this application. I understand that absorption charging should not be used and can be disabled by setting absorption time to 0. Should bulk and float voltages be set to the same value of e.g. 4.2V per cell?

Additionally, is it possible to use the SmartSolar in place of a BMS by controlling a sufficiently rated relay from the load output? In theory this should provide over-discharge protection, over-charge protection, and cold charging shutoff. Over-current protection can be provided with a fuse. Are there any other functions that a BMS would provide?

Thanks!

Please see picture. I'm trying to figure out why no watts are being tracked as well as the crruent/amps always seems to show zero in both solar and battery section. This happens even when I plug in a space heater and put it on high. That should definitely draw some amps. Please help.

Editing to add some more photos that may help:

Thanks!

Hi,

I have a small 24V system with two 12V batteries in series that I need a new charger for. Can I charge these with 2 separate Blue Power or Blue Smart IP22 12V chargers, one connected directly to each battery? If these chargers somehow connect the - with PE or N this would of course be a bad idea as it would cause a short circuit.

I have some constraints on available items in stock locally and time to get deliveries through customs etc. before I want to leave, thus looking for an un-orthodox solution.

I have a smart solar 100/15 connected to a 280ah battery bank.

Now during the winter the sun will be away for a month and then the solar panels i have wont be able to fully charge the batteries, so im gonna have to put a charger on to top up the batteries. I wonder now if the charger has to be limited to not go over 15A because of the 15A max of the solar charger?

Hi

Looking to buy one of the above battery chargers to charge the batteries 200 amp/hr in my camper trailer using a generator when the sun does not shine.

As my generator is small I need to confirm before purchase that the generator output will be sufficient to correctly operate the charger. I cannot however locate in the published specifications that I have found for the charger the input amps/watts required.

Can you please assist for this charger as well as the IP 67 12/17