I have finished my first revision of the campervan schematics, I am sure I would have forgotten a few items (such as the Dometic fridge, a shower solution etc), but this is the general installation. I wanted some people to check it over and to see if everything looks legit in terms of wiring etc. I suspect the solar wattage should be enough considering I have the DC-DC charger? Also in terms of AC power, can someone advise on a suitable distribution box that will work seamlessly with the Multiplus and the correct wire sizes for this also please?
Let me know if anything looks wrong. I plan to fit what I can and get it approved by an electrician.
I am literally starting from Zero...There is no existing equipment or installation in my overlander. Designs on possibles installations are super useful, any tips or help I can get is most welcome!!!!
I have plenty of space on the roof: 2.4x5.2 meters. Plenty of space for the battery bank, converter equipment, etc
Best batteries (cost/benefit)
Cabin and box connected and if possible a relay to charge the batteries with the alternator.
AC Unit 230V and DC
Thanks in advance!
All your help is most welcome
Based on my campervan plans, I am looking at a 24v system, with a few stepped down 12v items using an Orion Unit. I wanted to check if there would be any issues with earthing the system, as it is a 12v van? Anything else that I should be bearing in mind?
I am in the design phase to transform a sprinter 211 cdi, L1H1, everything a little tight !!!!, but perfect for use here in Europe and explore small towns, easy to park ... etc
But now I got to the point of doing the electrical project, which I'm not used to doing, I'm a civil engineer, I understand 220v AC circuits.
I wish you could help me with that part.
I'm Brazilian, but I also live a lot here in Portugal, where I'm going to do the conversation. Well, I started making a spreadsheet, with the necessary equipment and power, I have no intention of filling the camper with things, not least because it is an L1H1 sprinter, and I would like to have a simple electrical installation, but I don't want to have gas inside , so I prefer a stove with only one induction zone and to heat the water a D6 truma, which is diesel.
https: //www.ikea.com/en/en/manuals/tillreda-portable- induction-hob__AA-2234813-3.pdf
But from the calculations I made and compared to others I saw on the net, it seems that it ends up consuming a lot of power, with that it makes the electrical part expensive.
I don't want to spend so much only because of the induction.
In my calculations, it would have:
2 - lithium batteries of 100ah each
2 - solar panels of 100w each
1- 2000w inverter
1 - victron 100/30 controller
I don't know what equipment I would still need for everything to work.
In your opinion is this configuration sufficient to make quick meals and stay a day or two off-grid?
I will be grateful if you can help me, presenting an electrical diagram with the necessary equipment.
I am grateful if you answer.
Well, the result of the spreadsheet was:
|Quantity||Watts||Voltage||Amps||Amps in DC (12V)||Hrs||Wh||Ah|
I am building a campervan and try to figure out the best solutions. I have dual alternator Ford Transit with 175Amp output and my "pre-plan" is to use it to connect to 3000W inverter and run 120V to Victron Multiplus 3000W to 24V battery banks. (3 LiFePo4 batteries 170Ah 24V connected in parallel). For solar power I am thinking of Victron Solar Charger Controller 250V/100Amps.
I am not an electrician and my questions may be naïve, but I still need the answers:
1. Can the outputs of Victron Multiplus and the Solar Charger Controller be connected to the same Busbar?
2. What kind of solar panels are best for that setup?
3. Where do I need to connect circuit brakers?
My RV has tank level sensors. 4 pins installed on tank. Each has a resistor connected to it. (except for common)
the bottom 2 pins are at same level. The current system uses 12vdc and it will read 8 vdc when they are both wet. The next pin up is 2/3 level and drop to 6vdc, and 4th pin drops to 4vdc.
So if I remove power and just use the resistances. I should be able to get some reading either NA standard or EU?
the bottom 2 pins have a 0 ohm value when jumped. @ 1/3 level
the next has a 68 ohm valve when jumped to common.
top sensor pin is 188ohm when jumped to common.
I believe this should give 256 ohm when full. and 0 when 1/3 or just slightly off 0 ohm.
I've seen many ppl ask about camper style tank sensors and I think this is what most are referring to. There is no way I can get to my tanks to install float style sensors. And if its any more than building a resistor pack to change the values. I would just stay with the original KIB Tank Monitor system.
It sure would be nice to have it all in the same display.
(Currently have venus/multiplus/bmv-712/mppt 100/50- venus is temporary until cerbo arrives in Canada in August from what I'm told)
I would like to buy a Blue Smart IP22 Charger for my VW T5. It has 2 leisure batteries in it (under the front seats). My question is regarding plugging in the van when at UK campsites.
The campsites will limit the amount of current that can be drawn though a hookup (sometimes 10A, sometimes 16A). If I go for the 15A Blue Smart charger, could it trip out the campsite supply when I plug it in? And if it does, will LOW mode help to prevent it?
Thanks in advance.
I'm uplifting the Starter Battery from 12 to 24v with an Orion Tr Smart non-Isolated 12/24 20A but can't find information on the wire thickness for the input. As an output 6mm2 (AWG 9) will work fine, but no idea for the input (cable from Starter Battery to the Orion)
also, some wiring diagrams would help :)
Has anyone used a Cyrix ct-li to connect a high-power 12V vehicle charging system with lead-acid batteries to a 400AH (non-Victron) battery system (Battleborn, 4x100AH parallel connected, built-in BMS)?
What prevents the 400AH of LIFePO4 batteries sucking down very high charge currents (perhaps 400A) and overloading the vehicle alternator (rated 250Apeak, but reports suggest better run at <150A for extended duration to avoid overheating).
What cuts off overcharging the LiFePO4 batteries?
Any better suggestions for charging the house batteries? The rest of the system is basically a Victron MultiPlus 12/3000/120 and downstream 12V and 120V loads.
I have a van with 3 x 100W fixed solar panels in series charging a 150ah lithium battery via the Victron 100/20 SmartSolar MPPT charger. I am considering adding the ability to charge whilst driving, so looking at adding the Orion-TR Smart 12/12-30A DC-DC charger.
I am a bit confused on the logistics of these two units working together however, with the solar fixed to the roof and potentally giving full output when driving in good sun. Is it fine to wire these two in parallel and let them run simultaneously when driving?
Anything I might be missing here?
I have a 2S 2P setup on my camper with 4x100w panels and a 110Ah LiFePo4 battery. I use the camper a lot in the winter when yield from the solar is low, especially since the panel are flat on the roof. I am thinking about making adjustable angle brackets for the panels, but i think I can only use them on two without casting a shadow on 3&4. Is this worth it, or will the two horizontal panels pull down the extra available from the two at an angle? If there is a benefit, how would it be best to connect them? i.e. 1 pair in series or one from each parallel set.
I'm setting up a solar system for my cabover camper, and I have a few questions about setting up the solar system in the camper, primarily regarding the wiring and fusing of the system. I have the following components:
- 190W Rich Solar panel
- Victron MPPT 100/15 charge controller
- IP22 charger for charging when on shore power
- Victron Orion TR 12/12-30 DC-to-DC converter for charging from the truck alternator
- 12V, 100Ah Battleborn LiFePO4 battery
- Victron Phoenix 12/375 DC-AC Inverter
- Victron Bluetooth smart battery sense (not shown in the schematics)
The devices that will be powered from this system are:
- From the inverter: only oxygen generator (rated at 100W)
- From 12V DC :
- AC will only be powered when on shore power.
I'm planning to install positive and negative busbars in the battery compartment and connect the positive from the battery to the busbar using 60A MEGA fuse and AWG6 wire. The solar panel input to MPPT will be fused with 20A inline circuit breaker, and all wires are AWG10. The inverter will be fused with a 40A circuit breaker on AWG8 wire. A few questions that I have for the esteemed members of the community are:
I would really appreciate all your suggestions/corrections to help me connect all of the components!
I've spent a good while trying to learn what will be required for my setup and would really appreciate someone answering a few questions and taking a look over my proposed setup.
I will be using the 100ah Lifepo4 smart battery, this will be charged using the Orion-TR Smart DC-DC Charger via the Alternator. The Battery will power both DC and AC loads through the Sargent EC155 and the Victrons Phoenix Inverter; where im stuck is working out whats actually required in such a small system?
I have a decent understanding of 12v campervan electrics, however it seems it isn't quite so simple when using Lithium Lifepo3 batteries - I've attached a basic diagram of what the system will include on the Victron side (please ignore the direction of arrows).
The build will include basic 12v appliances such as a 12v fridge, water pump, LED lighting and a small inverter - most small appliances will be ran via the Sargent EC155. Heres where i'm struggling:
1- The van will include a 240v hookup which will run through the Sargent ec155 powering plug sockets and charging the leisure battery - Will this charger be sufficient for Lifepo4 batteries?
2- Do I need a Smart Battery Shunt if I'm using Victrons Smart Lifepo4 batteries?
3- What size fuse will I require for a 100ah Lifepo4 battery?
4- Am I right that the Mini BMS controls (on/off to protect over/under voltage) the charging side of the system and does the same on the load side via the Battery protect? I'm a little puzzled as to how this should be wired up to operate the inverter via the remote function; I've seen people using relays etc.
5- Can I run both the Waeco fridge and all other 12v appliances through one battery protect?
Thanks in advance,
As I am currently building a system with the Cerbo GX in mind, I plan to integrate the HS2000 heater by wiring this in to the Cerbo's relay switch. I thought it would be a nice idea to control this prior to my arrival at the van and heat it up 10 minutes or so before. This got me thinking if there was a way of integrating the heaters thermostat controls in to the Cerbo? Not sure how this would work, I am hoping someone would have a suggestion. I like the idea of reducing as many displays and control panels as possible, freeing up as much wall space in my campervan as possible.
Dear Victron community,
I’m going to use a Pylontech UP2500 (24V) in a campervan = offgrid system. Please find attached the first version of my electrical diagram.
I've read carefully the document written by Victron staff on how to parameter GX system in DVCC mode (https://www.victronenergy.com/live/battery_compatibility:pylontech_phantom)
I used a full Victron system in the past, the Vebus BMS was able to stop charge/discharge process automatically, and I would like to do the same thing in my setup thanks to the Cerbo GX.
Unfortunately, products such as Orion Charger/converter or battery protect don’t have any VE BUS or CAN communication port to allow direct charge/discharge communication. But both has the capability of being switched remotely. My idea is to use the two relays in alarm mode of the Cerbo to trigger the switch of the Orion and Battery protect in case of error sent by the Pylontech BMS.
For instance, in case of the Orion Tr Smart charger, wire the H pin (Figure c.3 manual).
Do you have any suggestion for this particular setup ? My French Victron distributor told me it was technically feasible but any advice is welcomed.
Hi, for my campervan, I am installing a Victron Atlas Combi (charger/inverter 12-> 230v) and a Victron BlueSolar MPPT.
I have some questions on this:
- Should the AGM battery be connected directly to the Atlas Combi or via the 'load' of the MPPT?
- Should 12V accessories be connected on the 'load' of the MPPT or directly on the Atlas Combi?
- Is there somewhere a schema of a similar setup (PV, MPPT, charger/inverter, utility battery, start battery, 12V system, 230V system)
Hi, Just wondering if it is possible or advisable to use the lithium version of the cyrix-ct with a SLA house battery.
Im considering this because adding a lithium house battery soon. I understand I would need to control the BMS wire of the relay to enable the relay to close.
Looks like the enable / disable voltage would work with lead acid being 13.4-13.2v
I would appreciate any advise as I am trying to get my head around my Camper set up.
I have just bought a full system from a supplier, however I suspect that they did not fully understand the functionality of the Cerbo GX that they recommended me and as a result they have also sold me some items I don't need, and probably left me short other items.
So my set up looks like this -
2 x 165Amp Hour Batteries
Solar to MPPT Controller
Multi Plus 12/2000/80 - with the Digital Multi Control remote panel
Battery Monitoring BMV 712
Cerbo GX with GX Touch 50 screen
Based on my research, if I just connect the Multi Plus to the Cerbo GX, can I do without the DMC remote control panel? Can I switch the Multi Plus to 'Charge Only' mode from the Cerbo GX 50?
Also, I want to put some water tank level senders into the Fresh & Waste water tanks - what type of sender units do I need? Can they be connected directly to the Cerbo or do I need another unit?
Any help is much appreciated.
I'm converting a Van to an office/camper.
I just finished planning my energy system (Or at least think so) and maybe someone here wants to have a look and comment on whether it makes sense? Or maybe give suggestions to improve it?
Energy requirements are between 500-1000Wh per day, depending on usage. And it's mostly used to power a fridge, a diesel heater, lights and some computer equipment. When the sun is shining or the batteries are well charged for other reasons I'm also thinking to do some light cooking which i think might add another 200-500Wh.
The target is to be able to cover about 4 days before needing to charge again, even with bad weather and no driving involved.
We are transforming an old (1997) American School bus to a Campervan / RV / Mobilehome.
We decided to use a 12V system (so no 24V or 48V) because of all kind of equipment we already have.
We have installed 18 flat and bendable solar panels (100W - 18V from a Chinese vendor) on the roof, they are all connected to a Victron Smart MPPT 250/100. the potential total capacity would be 1800W exceeding the 100A (12x 100W = 1200W), but keep in mind that these are Chinese (Ali Express), our tests show roughly 50% - 60% of their specified '100W' performance on a sunny day.
We also bought the following items:
Victron Smart Lithium 12.8V / 200Ah battery
Victron BMS VE.Bus
Victron Smart Phoenix Inverter 12V/3000W
Victron Smart Battery Protect 12V/220A
Victron Smart Phoenix Charger 12V/50A (1+1)
The idea is be to fully off-the-grid capable, even on days with less sun (therefore the solar panel overkill, and because we simply have a very big roof).
I do have quite some experience with electric systems in general (both AC and DC) but I'm not 100% sure about the VE.bus wiring. So it would be very helpfull if someone could help me with some wiring schema / diagram.
Hi friendly and knowledgeable folks,
I’m new to solar and when I first connected the system - 285w panel to 100/20 controller to 210Ah sealed lead acid battery the controller was happy pumping 74w plus to the battery.
Now that battery is full and been on float for a few days, even on sunny days I’m only getting 2w to 4W readings (see pic)
Is that normal cos battery is full and I’m not using any consumables in my camper yet?
Let me know what the gurus think. I appreciate your comments.
Hi just installed a single 285W solar panel on my camper and on first reading I saw that it’s producing 36V....
is this OK for the 100/20 controller? I’m storing onto a AGM 210Ah leisure battery. Is this controller OK for this panel?
I’ve looked at the app setting and I only have 12/24V options with currently 12V on.
Is this OK?
[image]I have purchased a victron system for my van conversion. I have a 50 amp buck/boost and the run from vehicle battery is 4.5m. I have at the moment a 200amph victron lifepo but intend to add another 200amph. What size cable should I use from vehicle battery to buck boost. I will upload my schematics
[image]We are 1 month old DIY Wizards seeking wisdom from the masters, I hope this diagram is appropriate to post here, if not I’ll remove. Im very excited to study such a new and expansive field of life. Mega fuses will be in the Lynx and some of these breakers may be removed. I’m currently studying BMS and current candidates are REC, Batrium, Smart123, and Orion.
here my idea for the electrification of the Van. First of all, do you see some error in the design? If yes, please correct me if I did something wrong. I have still some doubt:
I have 4 x 100 amp AGM batteries set to charge via a relay and our monitor is the BMV 712 smart. My house battery keeps draining and doesn't seem to charge at all. Is there something I need to program for the relay to charge the battery. What am I missing?
I am in the middle of making an elektrical schematic for on of my camperbuilds. In this build I would like to use an lithium battery.
I am using an Liontron 130Amp battery with build in BMS
Victron Smartsolar 100/20
Victron Multiplus 800VA
Victron BVM 712 Smart
Victron Battery Protect 3 x
Votronic B2B charger
300 watt Solar panel
To protect the LifePo4 battery I am using 3 x an Battery Protect in this scheme.
My question is: is this overkill and if not are they in the correct position?
The Votronic B2B charger wich I am using is not working via an battery protect, because it has a build in safety system and it will cut of charging when the temperature or charging levels are getting to high.
Because I am not using an Victron battery :( I can't use an Victron BMS or Mini BMS or VE-BMS etc.
Now I found another build online, although this is not with an LiFEPo4 battery they are just using 1 battery protect. Mounted directly on the battery +30, I thought an battery protect could only work 1 way, so either charging or de-charging protection? Does this build on the picture below mounted correctly?
I am looking forward to an reaction! :)
Thank you, Maarten
I'm planning on installing a leisure battery system to my 2012 Vw T5.1. I've decided to go down the LIFePo4 route and have bought a Tn Power 84Ah battery ,Victron Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-30 dc to dc charger and a Victron IP65 Blue smart charger.
My understanding of leisure battery systems comes from older setups,so please bear with me.
I'm planning on running a 16mm fused + feed to the leisure battery under the drivers seat. It will also be earthed here at a factory earthing stud. I also plan to run my 240v feed to here to power the IP65 charger. The Tr smart charger will then be wired to + on the leisure battery (also fused) and then grounded to the same stud as the leisure battery. I'm not sure I fully understand the remote on/off switch's function as a ignition on override? I had planned in stalling a simple low voltage switch here so I can leave the leisure battery unconnected in cold temperatures. I would then activate the charger only when the ambient temp is above freezing.
Is it as simple as connecting the IP65 charger directly to the leisure battery ? I know that this will charger my leisure battery up when hooked up,but will it damge the dc to dc charger in any way? Also when I am hooked up will the IP65 charge up my starter battery, via the Tr smart ,after the leisure is fully charged?
Apologies for the muddled thinking in the above,but things seem to have gotten way more complicated lately
I put all the bits I have in a drawing but not I need to figure out the wiring. I know some of this can use V.E. Direct and some V.E. Bus but still not sure what connects to what and more importantly the proper wire gauge.
All thoughts are welcome
Hello folks, a couple of questions. I have a VW camper with a solar panel c/w Bluesmart 75/15 MPPT controller connected to a SuperB Lithium 90Ah battery with built in BMS. I need to add a mains (240V) charger & am looking at either the Bluesmart IP22 12/15 or the Bluesmart IP65 12/15. Reading through the instruction manual for the IP35 version, I see that a "Test" is carried out prior to charge commencing,:-
The TEST LED will flash as long as a charge pulse does
not increase battery voltage to more than 12,5V resp. 25V.
If the flashing persists during several minutes the battery is
probably damaged (internal short-circuit): disconnect the
A false rejection may occur if a load is simultaneously
draining a very weak or fully discharged battery during the
test phase: disconnect the load and repeat the test.
1) If during the test phase, the solar charger is charging the battery, would the IP65 12/15 charger see the increased battery voltage & assume a fault & fail the test?
2) Is the IP35 version designed to run in parallel with other charging sources? If not, would the IP22 version suffer the same problem?
3) The charger will be permanently hardwired to the to the battery. Depending on circumstances it's highly likely that the charger maybe powered up whilst loads are simultaneously connected, (fridge/lights/diesel heater etc.) these loads may be running during the "test" phase, would this be an issue for either charger in question?
4) If the "test" fails, does the charger lockout until the next power up cycle or does it retry after a period of time?
5) Is there a more suitable charger for the application, it must be Lithium capable & be suitable for permanent installation in a small space, preferably fan-less.
Thanks for any help.