Using a Solar Charger - MPPT 450/100 couple with two Quattros 8000 48V and connected to a li ion 12S battery bank with a voltage range of 41-48.60V .
Once the voltage reaches around 47.50V the Solar Charger - MPPT 450/100 fires an alarm Low batt. voltage alarm: Alarm .
Why is that the case and how to get it switched off?
I am about to install a mp-II 5000/48 and a Smart inverter RS 450/100.
I was wondering if a battery is needed before the system will work?
The system is grid parallel
I Will wire the 48v terminals to each other, until battery and busbar arrive.
I am connecting 2x UP2500 24V Pylontech batteries in parallel for use with the Multi-Plus II 24V/3000VA and was wondering if I need Lynx shunt or Lynx power in to do this. Or is the Pylontech internal BMS capable of monitering all of this and communicating with the Cerbo GX.
Below is the details of the setup I will be running. Please feel free to point out anything else I may be missing with this setup. Thank you in advance!
-2x UP2500 PylonTech 24V batteries
-Victron Multi-Plus II 24V/3000VA
-Victron Smart Solar MPPT 150/100 Tr
-6x 370w Trina solar panels
-Victron Cerbo GX and Touch display
Hi, I'm trying to calculate the needed cable size for 2 x 180ah batteries in parralel.
So the question is should I match the 180ah (power from one to the other) or double it 360ah a wire accordingly. The wiring from the batteries will supply my campervan with 12v 3000ka multiplus along with 12v lights, USB sockets etc. the wiring for these has all ready been installed and is correct to spec. So 70mm x 2 to multiplus.
This last bit I'm finding hard to find the correct information. If you have links to further reading that will help that would also be helpful.
I am wondering:
Regarding what i read and hear the best to do with (in this case) AGM- deep cycle and super cycle batteries is following, in short:
- Always after use charge battery to full and after that, disconnect charger.
- If not used a fully charged battery for a period: After 1 or 2 months charge batteries again for maintenance purposes and to make sure a complete charge cycle is made.
- Do not interrupt charge when charging a fully charged battery, so do not charge batteries if not necessary and when it is not possible to finsih a complete charge cycle.
In my case:
I have a color control connected to a multiplus 12 volt, connected to 2 x 230 Ah in parallel.
The system can be monitored by the gsm module, so i have a constant network connection. Power drain in standby is around 0,2 amps due to data connection etc. When i use remote console, power drain is around 0,3-0,4 amps. So in other words: i am superslowly draining the batteries.
Do i keep the charger on or off when in standby? For my understanding, it is not very healthy to keep a charger always on whe u store batteries, even not when it has storage mode (see above for my understanding)
But in this case i am slowly draining the batteries, so is it better to leave the charger on when i am not on the boat for like 2 weeks?
For what i do now when i leave the boat:
I charge the batteries to 100 percent. I keep the color control online. After 2 weeks, the day before i go to the boat, i turn on the charger remotely.
Is this the best thing to do?
Best regards, Piet
A bit of background to understand some of our choices.
We have a ship of 24 meters with is used for scouts and their camps.
The ship will lay in remote locations for a longer period of time, this means no shore connection.
Also it wont sail every day most of the time only to the camp location, so charging with alternator doesn’t happen verry often.
We have a generator on board but the less the better of course (cost perspective).
In normal use the ship wont use allot of power only a couple of lights in the evening and phone chargers and the refrigerators.
The ship has a Quattro 24|3000|70 and fits the job for us.
So a big battery pack is just fine for us.
The current batteries are at the end of life that they aren’t useable at all anymore.
We have found an traction battery pack for a fair price consisting of 12x 6Pzs 480 battery’s
With a Volt/capacity of 24 Volts and 533Ah/10h.
We are volunteers organization so funding’s are always an issue, that is why this pack is so interesting for us, It’s fairly good price for allot op capacity.
The big question is how to charge this pack. It consist of 12x 2 Volt batteries, do we need one battery balancer?
Do we need an extra protection/check for uneven 2v battery charging?
Is a standard BMV 702 capable of checking the charging state of this pack?
What are the configurations on the quattro for charging, can these be standard lead acid?
Anny tips for the charging this pack are useful.
We have a PV system with 4 inverter Quattro 48/500/70 and 2 battery-box Pro 13.8.
Righ now we are only going to expand the photovoltaic system to 10.9kW, but the AC- coupling manual indicates ""Each additional 1.5 kWp of AC PV will require an additional proportional 4.8 kWh increase in battery storage""
10.9kW (AC PV) / 1.5 kWp x 4.8kWh = 34.88kWh
but, I have 27.6kWh (Battery)
Can I expand the System without more batteries?
or I have to add more?
Full time vanlifer here! I probably just need to revise some settings but I have no idea what any of it means as I'm new to this.
My setup is simple: One 175w Renogy panel. Victron 100|30 MPPT. One 100AH 12v Weize LiFePO4. That goes to a 1500/3000w invertor. I don't have a Victron BMS. I don't have any extra circuit breakers. The invertor has one built in so it's safe, I think.
I also have a couple 12v DC cigarette lighter style chargers attached directly to the battery recently. They have fuses. But my system worked for a couple weeks with those before something went wrong.
This setup was working great! Until a couple days ago when it died Immediately after the sun went down. I was running my fridge and a small fan all day. I also charged my phone once. But that's it. That definitely shouldn't have killed my batteries. Now it continues to die after the sun goes down.
I have screenshots of my MPPT settings here.
This, as you can see, was the middle of the day.
I checked for loose connections but didn't see anything. It would be nice if it worked again because I have ice cream in my freezer! I'm a newbie at this so please no big words?
I have read through some threads regarding systems without batteries, but have found nothing conclusive. I have Victron SmartSolar 75/15 and I think they have updated its construction/firmware since this question was last asked. I want to record exactly how much power my panel is producing throughout the day through VE.Direct. I have another panel set up with VE.Direct so I know how to log the data, however I want the PV power to be consumed by a resistive load (heater) so I can record the power. I tried to connect the heater to the load output on the controller, and change the controller settings to load always on and charger off, and thought this would work. However, apparently the load can only draw current if the charger mode is switched to on. When the charger mode is on and nothing is connected to the battery terminals on the controller, the load output was pulsating current because the system didn't know what voltage to charge at because it is an open circuit. Then I thought I could put the heater on the battery terminals to trick it into thinking it was charging a battery but it is actually powering the heater. This idea is working, however the voltage is about 9.5V despite me setting it manually to 12.5V for both absorption and float voltages (just modified the LiFePO4 default voltages and turned off temp compensation and low temp cutoff). I am happy with how it is running but I am not sure if the controller is attenuating the power output because it thinks the battery is "dead" or something, hence the low voltage. I am going to compare its power output to the system with a battery to see if the power is reduced at all, but I figured I would ask the community first.
And yes, I am okay with the system only logging data during the day, as the controller needs power to log the data.
Any insight is appreciated, it is entirely possible I am overcomplicating things.
Objective: View and or change the "cut load off" if battery voltage = X volts using Venus GX connected to Multiplus.
With PC, VictronConnect software and data cable this can be set.
Devices are remote, not possible to go with PC.
Where in menu for Venus GX connected to say MultiPlus can I view and or change this setting to cut the load if battery voltage = X volts?
Does anyone know which cells are used in the superpack? From the Material Safety Data Sheet it is clear that these cells are no longer winston cells but regular LFP cells (still rated for storage down to-40C)
I am at the point where I will be installing my new batteries. I will be fusing them at the battery with MRBF terminal fuse blocks.The battery bolt is an M8 and the terminal fuse block hole at the battery post is M10. Is this a problem and should I just use a washer on top?
I am, due to the capacity i need and the good experience with the type of batteries, thinking about making an electric propulsion (+/- 7,5-8,5 kw) system with 4 x 230 ahvictron super cycle batteries set up in 48 volt.
Does anybody have experience with this kind of setup?
Thanks for your time!
Best regards, Piet
After 9 years, I am not sure my electrolyte is up to norm. To measure it, I intend to a) equalize, b) reach full SOC and end of absorption, c) cut off every load and charge, d) wait at least 2 hours and e) read my electrolyte density.
The difference with the "normal" density should allow me to top up as needed (water or acid).
Any other bright idea?
I want to put a double pole MCB between a MultiPlus-II 48/3000/35-32 and 3 48V Pylontech batteries.
Pylontech recommends 25A for each Package and it supports up to 100A of discharge for each Package.
Victron states in manual:
-You must have the minimum number of battery modules to supply the inverters startup inrush surge currents that charge the capacitors when the inverter is first connected, this occurs prior to any loads being connected. For this Inverter, 2 Batteries are minimum.
-Victron recommends a 125A MCB between battery and Inverter, since its Peak power is 5500Watt (3000 AC Load + 1500 feeding in shore power)
We dont want to feed in the shore power, so only ac loads left. 3000 W / 48 V = 62,5 A. So an 80A MCB should be fine, but maybe the Inverter wants to pull more current? Maybe the stated 125A due to the startup inrush current?
I found 3 MCBs (80A, 100A, 125A) from the same series from ABB
I really would like to use an 80Amp MCB, so that the Inverter does not pull much more than the calculated 62,5 Amps.
Do you think the 80Amp MCB will "handle" the startup inrush current?
Does the MCB could have a minimum operating Voltage(Datasheet not found)? Is 48V fine?
Is the rated Ultimate Short-Circuit Breaking Capacity (Icu):(800 V DC) 5 kA enough for a 7,2kWh battery system?
If you have remommendations for other MCBs, please share.
I currently have the following:
Quattro (5000W 48V Inv/Charger 120VAC)
Smart Solar MPPT (150V 60A)
48V Lithium battery bank (4 12V batteries in series)
BMV712 with shunt.Screenshot from 2021-03-11 10-57-25.png
This system is running fine. I am planning to implement another Quattro, MPPT controller and 48V battery bank.
I have gone thru the Wiring Unlimited doc (multiple times) in order to try to understand the concepts of balancing the battery-related DC circuits as much as possible (e.g. keeping cable lengths the same, ensuring circuits all have the same distance to travel, etc.). I also want to use the BMV712 for monitoring the entire battery system if possible. I came up with the attached schematic that is focused on balanced battery-related DC wiring. For simplicity, I didn't include fuses, isolation switches, PV portion of the system, AC wiring, etc. Wire sizes are also not represented in the schematic.
I'm looking for feedback as to whether this seems to be a good approach toward balancing the DC (non-PV related) circuits for my application. Thanks for any feedback you can give.
Is it possible to run a forecast based battery management? Considering Geo data, weather, ... The goal is loading the battery not in the morning - but e.g. at noon ..
In Deutschland , genauer gesagt in Berlin, gibt es Fördergeld wenn man einen Prognose basiert es Lademanagement umsetzt, die Idee ist den Akku nicht schon morgens direkt aufzuladen bei den ersten Sonnenstrahlen, sondern erst am Mittag , wenn Höchstleistung (PV) anliegt .. Auf diese Weise kann man eine gleichmäßige Einspeisung erreichen. Prognose basiert, heißt auch nach dass man Geokoordinaten mitgibt und eventuelle Wetterdaten berücksichtigt .. Es gibt ja die Möglichkeit über external Control eigene Steuerungen zu implementierenmentieren, hat das mal jemand versucht?
Hi this may be a stupid question but I'll ask it anyway. A customer has come to me with a victron 230v 3 output 30a 12v charger. He has a bus with 2 12volt agm batteries. They are wired in series for 24 volt but he also has a 12 volt system so he takes that from one of the 2 batteries. I know this isn't ideal but it's what he has. My question is can I wire up each battery to 2 of the outputs on the charger? Will this charge each battery individually depending on individual voltages or will it put the same voltage to both? Is this the best way to do it as one of the batteries gets discharged more due to it supplying 12v as well as the 24v in series. Any info would be great.
So I have a small travel trailer with limited space for a battery. Have a Victron Solar controller and SmartShunt but looking for a better capacity battery than the cheap one that it came with. Draw is a handful of LED lights, USB ports etc - no need for large current draw but capacity and lifespan are king
The current battery box is 280x175x244mm so want to look for something that sits inside the same footprint
I am looking at the BAT412110081 AGM Super Cycle or the BAT412600104 Deep Cycle Gel as the two that will fit.
Which would people recommend as the better choice and which has the larger capacity?
Thanks in advance for the help!
My names Jesse Fuchs and I own a 30ft Airstream Argosy that I have stripped down to the bones, and I am slowly poking away at rebuilding while Covid-19 has closed my local watering hole.
It’s about the time to start planning the electrical system so I can size the wire, fuses, and disconnects. I have cruised the forums the last year and know that these are tough places for someone to drop into looking for guidance, especially if I have overlooked something important or decided to buck any of the current trends, alas, I am reaching out for help from the Victron Gurus. I apologize if something is obvious and I have missed it. Please bear with me.
I have attached the basic Electrical plan. The first thing you may notice is that, for cost reasons, I have decided to not use Victron batteries. I just cannot justify spending 12 000$ more.
This brings me to my first question.
#1 Other than connecting to the Lynx Shunt and monitoring the batteries temperatures with the Cerbo GX what am I missing?
#2 I want to simplify the system and stick with Victron so I have decided to opt out of using the Simerine monitoring system. One thing I really like about the Simerine is that it can monitor current draw of loads. Am I able to do this with the Cerbo GX or any other Victron equipment and then see a visual on the GX touch?
#3 This is more of a solar question, but I have organized the solar panels in 3 strings of 2 series panels to avoid shading issues. Should I use one MPPT 100/50 or three smaller MPPTs in parallel?
#4 I have done some very loose math and according to my load audit, for 3100w I am 100 ah short and a bit overkill on solar. I just want to avoid roof penetrations in the future so I would rather upsize. If there is a more efficient way that is glaring at anyone that I am missing? I’d love the tips.
#5 I do have a BMS 12/200 but thought that it was easier to go with the Orion 1212. If anyone needs a BMS 12/200 or it actually can be easily integrated for tow vehicle charging, please let me know.
# 6 Will there ever be a way to incorporate the Garnet seamaster levels into a Cerbo without having to utilize all of Kevin Windrems hard work?
I am building a 4 - 12v 100ah lithium battery bank for my boat. I want to use the lynx distributor and shunt for the battery in. Does wiring and fusing each battery individually to the terminals of the distributor serve the same function as wiring the batteries in parallel and just bringing in one positive and one negative? meaning the bank remains 12v with a 400ah capacity with the added protection of fusing each battery?
Hope to see victron adding lavo to their ever growing list
Being 48v, it will be useable but monitoring will need to be added.
Previously I have seen my system go into Passthru once (in 6 months) It didn't cause any issues and hence I just left it... but last week I saw it go into passthru three times in a day, and it seems that every time it went into passthrough the battery temperature went missing...
Now leading to my questions:
1. Is this normal?
2. Is this a known issue and has anyone else experienced this? and finally,
3. Is there a way to correct this?
The battery is a Pylotech 2.4kWh and is connected to a Venus Gx via Can bus.
Zoomed in section
I have just purchased all the parts for a Victron branded solar setup on my motorhome.
Im using two Ampere Time 200ah LiFePO4 batteries in paralell for my bank. What should I set the absorption, float and bulk to when I set up my MultiPlus 3000VA 12v inverter?
I've read a few similar posts and they all sound very forign to me. This is my first solar setup.
If you dont mind... please explain to me like im 5.
I'm struggling to understand batteries, I have a small solar installation SmartSolar 100/30, SmartShunt and Smart battery protector in exhibition trailer which is currently being used as test rig, I was using two Flooded leisure batteries in parallel 220AH effective. I Run a 3.9A (Lights and network switch) I calculate that at 3.9A (4A.) 220AH/4 which I estimate should run for 55hrs, runs for about 2hrs before the BatteryProtect kicks in.
I have purchased AGM battery for testing cos I'm looking at replacing my 2 x 110AH flooded leisure batteries with VE 110AH AGM batteries in a slightly more complex installation in the camper and wanted to do some comparisons.
I am thinking the flooded batteries are no longer serviceable although the indicator display is green on both.
The 110AH AGM battery I would estimate 110AH/4 = 27hrs running time and not even coming close to that. What sort of running time would you normally expect with such load?
What is the maximum discharge point for AGM batteries? 80% AGM and 50% for flooded, but other websites saying 50% for AGM and 80% for flooded, which is correct?
What setting for battery protect would you recommend?
Thanyou in advance
Good day, i have 2 victron 220A gel batteries but very limited space, can i put one battery on top of the other or is it best so put them side by side at the same height ? Thanks !
It will not charge properly with the default settings.
[image]I have come across a 12.8v lithium 60ah battery,
it don't say smart or super on the front just 'lithium 12.8v -60 ah
Charging temp -25 to 50c
It has no bms leads (but has black dits were they are on the new lithium smart batterys)
This is an old victim 12.8v lithium battery. It has obviously some sort of bus inside it but I can't find out its max charge / discharge (or even a manual)
(Would post a photo if I could) it looks like a smart lipo4 but it don't have Bluetooth, and there is no bms leads (but wear the new batteries have the bms leads this just has black plastic moulded in its place.
P.n is Bat512600500
Lable on the back says victim liFePO4 BATTERY 12.8V/60AH-CB
(Apologies if I come across rude I much prefer to talk over a conversation and my spelling probably apauling) :)
Updated to add a photo :)
The Lithium Smart battery range require an external BMS and low/high voltage/temperature protection. We are looking at connecting 4 x 200Ah batteries in parallel. However if you use 1 x smallBMS and daisy chain the leads, then if 1 battery in the bank has a fault, the BMS will shut down the batteryProtect and no power will be available.
Is it possible to add a smallBMS and some BatteryProtect/Cyrix devices to each battery to create what is similar to a superpack. The pack would have a separate charging and load connector.
Note: Superpack batteries will not fit in our enclosure.
The following image is taken from the battery protect manual.
If we assume the following:
- "Battery Charger" is a RED keyed Anderson for charging input
- "DC Load" is a GREY Anderson connector for load outputs
Would it be possible to connect 4 of these in parallel. Or would the main 220A Battery protect have to be changed to a Cyrix module as there may be reverse current connecting the batteries in parallel.
The BatteryProtect manuals state: Caution: uncontrolled reverse current will flow through a Battery Protect if Vout > Vin. Therefore never use a Battery Protect for battery to battery charging.
This way, if one of the packs fails and the BMS switches one off, then the other three would still be able to function.
I'm busy thinking about changing to lithium batteries.
There is a lot of choice out there.
Pylon is very popular and they make many claims about life and performance - does anyone have any real-world experience especially in the victron ecosystem?
Victron LiFEPO4 also look good but are way more expensive and on paper have a less exciting set of specs and guarantee.
Paper and practice aren't the same thing, so I have much more confidence victron would deliver what is promised. (You also need at least two for a 48V inverter).
Thoughts and comments welcomed.