battery Image


Help with charging 2 batteries from 1 charger

Hi this may be a stupid question but I'll ask it anyway. A customer has come to me with a victron 230v 3 output 30a 12v charger. He has a bus with 2 12volt agm batteries. They are wired in series for 24 volt but he also has a 12 volt system so he takes that from one of the 2 batteries. I know this isn't ideal but it's what he has. My question is can I wire up each battery to 2 of the outputs on the charger? Will this charge each battery individually depending on individual voltages or will it put the same voltage to both? Is this the best way to do it as one of the batteries gets discharged more due to it supplying 12v as well as the 24v in series. Any info would be great.

Jake Kennedy asked
Jake Kennedy commented ·

1 Answer

Battery choice - guidance requested

So I have a small travel trailer with limited space for a battery. Have a Victron Solar controller and SmartShunt but looking for a better capacity battery than the cheap one that it came with. Draw is a handful of LED lights, USB ports etc - no need for large current draw but capacity and lifespan are king

The current battery box is 280x175x244mm so want to look for something that sits inside the same footprint

I am looking at the BAT412110081 AGM Super Cycle or the BAT412600104 Deep Cycle Gel as the two that will fit.

Which would people recommend as the better choice and which has the larger capacity?

Thanks in advance for the help!

ttttfrosen asked
Rob Fijn commented ·

1 Answer

1978 Airstream Argosy 30ft. 6 Questions inspired by the electrical plan.

Airstream Dream Rev1 .pdf


My names Jesse Fuchs and I own a 30ft Airstream Argosy that I have stripped down to the bones, and I am slowly poking away at rebuilding while Covid-19 has closed my local watering hole.

It’s about the time to start planning the electrical system so I can size the wire, fuses, and disconnects. I have cruised the forums the last year and know that these are tough places for someone to drop into looking for guidance, especially if I have overlooked something important or decided to buck any of the current trends, alas, I am reaching out for help from the Victron Gurus. I apologize if something is obvious and I have missed it. Please bear with me.

I have attached the basic Electrical plan. The first thing you may notice is that, for cost reasons, I have decided to not use Victron batteries. I just cannot justify spending 12 000$ more.

This brings me to my first question.

#1 Other than connecting to the Lynx Shunt and monitoring the batteries temperatures with the Cerbo GX what am I missing?

#2 I want to simplify the system and stick with Victron so I have decided to opt out of using the Simerine monitoring system. One thing I really like about the Simerine is that it can monitor current draw of loads. Am I able to do this with the Cerbo GX or any other Victron equipment and then see a visual on the GX touch?

#3 This is more of a solar question, but I have organized the solar panels in 3 strings of 2 series panels to avoid shading issues. Should I use one MPPT 100/50 or three smaller MPPTs in parallel?

#4 I have done some very loose math and according to my load audit, for 3100w I am 100 ah short and a bit overkill on solar. I just want to avoid roof penetrations in the future so I would rather upsize. If there is a more efficient way that is glaring at anyone that I am missing? I’d love the tips.

#5 I do have a BMS 12/200 but thought that it was easier to go with the Orion 1212. If anyone needs a BMS 12/200 or it actually can be easily integrated for tow vehicle charging, please let me know.

# 6 Will there ever be a way to incorporate the Garnet seamaster levels into a Cerbo without having to utilize all of Kevin Windrems hard work?

jesseafuchs asked
jesseafuchs commented ·

2 Answers

How to use lynx distributor for parallel wiring?

I am building a 4 - 12v 100ah lithium battery bank for my boat. I want to use the lynx distributor and shunt for the battery in. Does wiring and fusing each battery individually to the terminals of the distributor serve the same function as wiring the batteries in parallel and just bringing in one positive and one negative? meaning the bank remains 12v with a 400ah capacity with the added protection of fusing each battery?


cfdlighthouse asked
seb71 edited ·

5 Answers

Lavo Hydrogen battery compatibility

Hope to see victron adding lavo to their ever growing list

Being 48v, it will be useable but monitoring will need to be added.

alan asked
alan edited ·

0 Answers

Pylontech Battery Temperature Missing During PassThru

Previously I have seen my system go into Passthru once (in 6 months) It didn't cause any issues and hence I just left it... but last week I saw it go into passthru three times in a day, and it seems that every time it went into passthrough the battery temperature went missing...

Now leading to my questions:

1. Is this normal?

2. Is this a known issue and has anyone else experienced this? and finally,

3. Is there a way to correct this?



The battery is a Pylotech 2.4kWh and is connected to a Venus Gx via Can bus.



Zoomed in section



ewalderasmus asked
bkvanduk answered ·

3 Answers

MultiPlus Settings for LiFePO4 2x 200ah Ampere Time Battery Bank


I have just purchased all the parts for a Victron branded solar setup on my motorhome.

Im using two Ampere Time 200ah LiFePO4 batteries in paralell for my bank. What should I set the absorption, float and bulk to when I set up my MultiPlus 3000VA 12v inverter?

I've read a few similar posts and they all sound very forign to me. This is my first solar setup.

If you dont mind... please explain to me like im 5.

outerspacemannn asked
outerspacemannn commented ·

2 Answers

Question About batteries

I'm struggling to understand batteries, I have a small solar installation SmartSolar 100/30, SmartShunt and Smart battery protector in exhibition trailer which is currently being used as test rig, I was using two Flooded leisure batteries in parallel 220AH effective. I Run a 3.9A (Lights and network switch) I calculate that at 3.9A (4A.) 220AH/4 which I estimate should run for 55hrs, runs for about 2hrs before the BatteryProtect kicks in.

I have purchased AGM battery for testing cos I'm looking at replacing my 2 x 110AH flooded leisure batteries with VE 110AH AGM batteries in a slightly more complex installation in the camper and wanted to do some comparisons.

I am thinking the flooded batteries are no longer serviceable although the indicator display is green on both.

The 110AH AGM battery I would estimate 110AH/4 = 27hrs running time and not even coming close to that. What sort of running time would you normally expect with such load?

What is the maximum discharge point for AGM batteries? 80% AGM and 50% for flooded, but other websites saying 50% for AGM and 80% for flooded, which is correct?

What setting for battery protect would you recommend?

Thanyou in advance

southsideph asked
marc-de-montreal answered ·

1 Answer

Battery positionning

Good day, i have 2 victron 220A gel batteries but very limited space, can i put one battery on top of the other or is it best so put them side by side at the same height ? Thanks !

yannd asked
simontaylor answered ·

2 Answers

How to treat this victron 12.8v battery


I have come across a 12.8v lithium 60ah battery,

it don't say smart or super on the front just 'lithium 12.8v -60 ah

Charging temp -25 to 50c

It has no bms leads (but has black dits were they are on the new lithium smart batterys)

This is an old victim 12.8v lithium battery. It has obviously some sort of bus inside it but I can't find out its max charge / discharge (or even a manual)

(Would post a photo if I could) it looks like a smart lipo4 but it don't have Bluetooth, and there is no bms leads (but wear the new batteries have the bms leads this just has black plastic moulded in its place.

P.n is Bat512600500

S/n Hq1345jwccn

Lable on the back says victim liFePO4 BATTERY 12.8V/60AH-CB

768 wh

(Apologies if I come across rude I much prefer to talk over a conversation and my spelling probably apauling) :)

Updated to add a photo :)

mod1992 asked
mod1992 answered ·

2 Answers

Lithium Smart Batteries protected individually?

The Lithium Smart battery range require an external BMS and low/high voltage/temperature protection. We are looking at connecting 4 x 200Ah batteries in parallel. However if you use 1 x smallBMS and daisy chain the leads, then if 1 battery in the bank has a fault, the BMS will shut down the batteryProtect and no power will be available.

Is it possible to add a smallBMS and some BatteryProtect/Cyrix devices to each battery to create what is similar to a superpack. The pack would have a separate charging and load connector.

Note: Superpack batteries will not fit in our enclosure.

The following image is taken from the battery protect manual.

If we assume the following:

- "Battery Charger" is a RED keyed Anderson for charging input

- "DC Load" is a GREY Anderson connector for load outputs

Would it be possible to connect 4 of these in parallel. Or would the main 220A Battery protect have to be changed to a Cyrix module as there may be reverse current connecting the batteries in parallel.

The BatteryProtect manuals state: Caution: uncontrolled reverse current will flow through a Battery Protect if Vout > Vin. Therefore never use a Battery Protect for battery to battery charging.


This way, if one of the packs fails and the BMS switches one off, then the other three would still be able to function.

stefanh asked
offshore commented ·

4 Answers

choosing the right lithium battery

I'm busy thinking about changing to lithium batteries.

There is a lot of choice out there.

Pylon is very popular and they make many claims about life and performance - does anyone have any real-world experience especially in the victron ecosystem?

Victron LiFEPO4 also look good but are way more expensive and on paper have a less exciting set of specs and guarantee.

Paper and practice aren't the same thing, so I have much more confidence victron would deliver what is promised. (You also need at least two for a 48V inverter).

Thoughts and comments welcomed.

nickdb asked
tmartin000 answered ·

6 Answers

Minimum number of PylonTech US3000's on a Quattro 48/10000

According to the Victron guide the minimum nr of PylonTech US2000s is 7 on a Quattro 48/10000. What would be the minimum needed for PylonTech US3000s ??? THX!!!!

pabloc39 asked
checkit edited ·

3 Answers

Suitable Circuit breaker between multiplus-ii and battery

Hello everyone,

I want to put a double pole MCB between a MultiPlus-II 48/3000/35-32 and 3 48V Pylontech batteries.

Pylontech recommends 25A for each Package and it supports up to 100A of discharge for each Package.

Victron states in manual:

-You must have the minimum number of battery modules to supply the inverters startup inrush surge currents that charge the capacitors when the inverter is first connected, this occurs prior to any loads being connected. For this Inverter, 2 Batteries are minimum.

-Victron recommends a 125A MCB between battery and Inverter, since its Peak power is 5500Watt (3000 AC Load + 1500 feeding in shore power)

We dont want to feed in the shore power, so only ac loads left. 3000 W / 48 V = 62,5 A. So an 80A MCB should be fine, but maybe the Inverter wants to pull more current? Maybe the stated 125A due to the startup inrush current?

I found 3 MCBs (80A, 100A, 125A) from the same series from ABB

I really would like to use an 80Amp MCB, so that the Inverter does not pull much more than the calculated 62,5 Amps.

My Questions:

Do you think the 80Amp MCB will "handle" the startup inrush current?

Does the MCB could have a minimum operating Voltage(Datasheet not found)? Is 48V fine?

Is the rated Ultimate Short-Circuit Breaking Capacity (Icu):(800 V DC) 5 kA enough for a 7,2kWh battery system?

If you have remommendations for other MCBs, please share.

Cansin Sari asked
seb71 commented ·

2 Answers

Is my battery bank good ?

Good day i have a battery bank of 3 - 12 volts in parrallel total of 450amp (gel batteries) that i am trying to figure if they are still good : they were at 11.8 volts when i connected my charger (victron ip22 12-30Amp and a few seconds after i connected the charger it switches to absorption despites the voltage is still low on the batteries.Is it a sign that these batteries are turning bad ? thanks

yannd asked
michelg answered ·

1 Answer

Integration between Color Control GX and Sodium Battery 48TL200

Hello, i want to integrate the Color Control GX with my sodium batteries (Fiamm 48TL200), but, unfortunately the Collor Control GX does not support this batteries BMS, i want to develop the support. There's some tutorial or some kind of documents i can use to do this integration?

lucashubner asked
mvader (Victron Energy) commented ·

4 Answers

Battery / inverter recommendation

I am going to be installing an Onan QD5000 into my race truck motorhome but also want to run off batteries whenever possible ie. overnight and whilst on the road travelling (the generator will be great for big loads i.e tools etc when needed but obviously cant be running all the time and while travelling) we will be running 230v appliances (Fridge, TV, led lighting, microwave, combi boiler, charging phones / laptop).

I am looking for recommendations for batteries to look at and how long would i should expect these to last? agm vs lithium - id rather use agm due to costs. (im not sure what my average consumption will be as i haven't finished building the truck yet) and also what sort of recharge time would i get out of the generator to the batteries.

Adding to the above, what inverter would be best suited? and also are there any other related products i will need / will be of value to have.

thanks in advance.

barclay-89 asked
DeVo Tyler answered ·

3 Answers

Incorrect battery temperature displayed on VRM


Pylontech batteries sitting at 15c degrees on ccgx,however the VRM is indicating -273 c degrees!


Mark asked
Mark commented ·

1 Answer

ESS large battery draw on Scheduled Charge

System details :

  • MultiPlus-II 48/3000
  • Pylontech US2000B Plus 4.8kWh Li-Ion Battery
  • Venus GX
  • ESS

I'm running an ESS system and noticed that the startup of large AC loads are being powered from the battery / inverter when on scheduled charge. The scenario is as follows:

  • Scheduled charge period
  • Target charge has been reached
  • Grid is available
  • Zero PV

Under these conditions, my understanding is that the system should be relying on the grid to power the loads (with minor background losses). What I'm seeing is that the batteries are used to support the startup of large loads while the grid contribution is slowly ramped up over a few seconds. In the screenshot below, we were using a clothes iron that switched on and off frequently. This resulted in large loads being pulled from the battery each time the element switched on and corresponding charges pushed to the battery when the load switched off. Any way to change the behaviour and get the system to rely on the grid in this scenrio?




Here is less extreme example where a kettle is switched on and pulls 14A from the battery during a scheduled charge period:


kempza asked
nickdb commented ·

1 Answer

Quattro Compatibility with REVOV Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery

I currently have x15 Quattro48/10000 set up in a 3-phase configuration (5 units each phase). I am looking to retire the existing FLA battery bank and replace it with Lithium Iron Phosphate Batteries.

The supplier I have been in contact with is REVOV who claims that their batteries will work with Victron Quattros as they have other installations running a similar setup.

Does anyone have any insight or experience with REVOV batteries and if they work with the Quattro devices? I have attached the information on the REVOV batteries for reference.

Thank you.

1life REVOV_LiFeC8_Product_Specs_Oct2020_v9 (1).pdf

carver asked
Matthias Lange - DE answered ·

1 Answer

Did my battery just get too depleated?


I recently changed my AGM battery to a 102ah lithium set up in a mobile unit used for camping. The AGM only had 47ah and would not allow my 12v refrigerator to operate if I did not drive the truck every day. I thought the lithium would take care of the shortcomings of the AGM. Over Christmas I went camping and at first all was well. We run a fridge and 5 LED lights (lights only at night) we do have 6 USB ports for charging phones, etc. but not used continually. We camped two nights in a slightly shaded area. On the second night (6 days ago in the history) the fridge cut off during the night as it is designed to do when the voltage reaches 10.9 v...I assume, and the lights were dead the next morning as well. We moved locations and had sun most of the day while driving around (at least 5 hours of sun) That night (5 days ago in the history) about 8p.m. the fridge cut off again at about 10.9v but the lights stayed on. We went to bed with lights and the voltage reading showing 10.8 but the next morning no power at all. As the sun came up the panel started to collect sun as the voltage reading started to blink in a out as the volts increased. We moved yet again and drove around about 4 hours or so. At 8p.m. (4 days ago in the history)I turned the fridge off and went to bed with 11.6 showing on volt meter but by morning...again no lights. We packed up and drove home in a rainy and overcast day. The truck has been sitting in direct sun for about 9 hours each day with the fridge


on. It has not shut down and the voltage shows to be in the 13.0 -13.4 range. I attached pics of the history on the MPPT and noted those days in the above. Did I just not get enough sun? Is the battery bad perhaps? Do I need to add a dc-dc charger? Thanks for any input.

yelper asked
dbvanhorn commented ·

4 Answers

Lithium vs AGM

I plan to change my gel with lithium but I will leave the boat on the hard for 11 months per year for the next 5 years. After I will be on board 4 to 6 months a years. Has anyone any idea on what are the storage constraints for lithium and AGM knowing they will stay on board in countries there the boat will be at the time (. Mostly in the Mediterranean Sea). I will prefer lithium but it depends on how each system will behave for the 11 months. I have 400W of solar panels but I do not know if that will make a difference during these long periods. I will gladly hear any comment or advice. Thanks

ely asked
seb71 commented ·

3 Answers

Battery locations and overall system input? Any obvious mistakes?

I live full time in a 30’ class A RV and rarely have shore power. This is what i have so fart and the upgrade path i am looking at. any sort of input/advice from people who know more than me is really appreciated.

I have a total of six Costco golfcart batteries, 210 A/h each, running at 12V for a total of 630 A/h. Two batteries are under the hood and the other four are in the rear with 2000w inverter. There is a SCC connected close to each bank of batteries , so two SCC total. All batteries bought at the same time and are isolated from the starter battery but not each other. So was this a terrible idea? Should i move the two fron batteries to the rear or is this ok?

The 12v fuse panel for the RV was already in the rear next to the AC/DC charger, powered by the grid or the onboard generator and connected to the house batteries under the hood with 4 gauge wire running the length of the RV. Since this came from the factory, i figured it was ok. I didnt think it was a good idea to run the SCC through 30’ of wire If i didnt have to. There wasn’t enough room under the hood for all the batteries And I’d dont know how many amps the alternator puts out & that’s why i decided to put two in front and 4 in rear.

The front batteries have a 100/20 SCC and the rear have a 100/30. That maxes out at 50amps total for 630 a/h of batteries. I have six 100W panels total, mimicking the battery placement, two on the front SCC a four on the rear.

I plan on adding more panels as i go and will probably swap out and add more battery at some point, but i wanted to learn on cheap batteries that I could exchage easily if I kill them in under a year.

What i am thinking , unless i get told this was a stupid setup and have to change it, I want to add 6 more panels. Basically doubling the panels on each SCC in parallel. When i do that i will also swap the 100/30 for the 100/50 but leave the 100/20 up front. I realize that in full sun both SCC will be maxed out in current And will be wasting some.

My thinking is that the 100/30 puts out around 25amps with 400w in panels now, so I wouldn’t actually be wasting much but would improve my cloudy day performance. My understanding is that over paneling the current like this is ok as long as it never goes over the voltage hard limit of the SCC, which would be fine doubling the number if panels i have right now.

The panels are mounted on pallets, but not actually mounted on the roof so that i can prop them up facing the sun, which makes a big difference. When i add panels i plan on permanently mounting them to the roof. My thinking is that it is a good idea to have some i can set out direct sun, without having to be parked in the direct sun.

So, if you managed to read all this, thanks. Now what do you think of my setup and what, if anything should i change? Think my plan to over-panel is safe and ok?

faulkton asked
randy-putnam answered ·

2 Answers

Battery voltage drop when high load is connected


I have installed the following off-grid system, which has been working pretty good for one year.

  • 4 300W solar panels
  • SMARTSOLAR MPPT 150/35 48V
  • 8 Acid Lead batteries of 6V each (Deka GC15)

However I'm wondering if the behavior I see when I plug a 1200W water heater during the central hours of the day is expected.

As you can see from following graphs the battery voltage drops when load is active and jumps back to an higher value afterwards.

Reading other posts on this subject I've got this is expected indeed, but my question is: do I have to worry about this voltage drop? In other words: should I power on the AC generator if the battery voltage goes down to 46V like in the picture below?

Thanks a lot,




the-salmon asked
the-salmon commented ·

2 Answers

Low Battery Alarm at 48V in a ESS system

In my EasySolar 5000 system running ESS I get every morning a Low Battery at around 48 V and I can't figure out from where this Alarm (setpoint) is triggered.


The Low Battery parameter in the Multi are set as follows:

Inverter DC shut-down voltage
Inverter DC restart voltage
Low DC alarm level 42

The Dynamic cut-off settings in the ESS assistance is unchanged starting at 48V.
DVCC is not enabled. It is pretty hard to see where some effects/settings coming from with ESS, because a lot happens in the dark background (aka blackbox).

In addition, I run Gel batteries without BMS. Float voltage is at 55.2 V, Absorb. at 56.4 V.

lucode asked
bobac answered ·

1 Answer

MPPT to inverter without batteries

Hi everybody,

I'm currently searching for a way to power a load of 5A/230V with a few solar panel. According to my calculations, I should buy 4 solar panel of 360Wp, to power the 1150W needed. I want those solar panel to be connected to a MPPT and an inverter without any batteries between those two. The installation is completely PLC-controled and I want to power my load only when the sun shines. I will have a contactor to connect my load and my solar panel together.

Is it possible to connect my solar panels to an MPPT and in an inverter without batteries between ? I' do not have any acces to the electrical-grid.

Thanks for reading me,

Granville. A.

granvillea asked
Alexandra commented ·

1 Answer

Victron 60Ah AGM acceptable voltage drop under load

General question, I'm learning as I go ahead, and the more I progress the more I realise I don't know anything :-)

I have a small solar setup and my battery is a Victron Deep Cycle AGM 60Ah.

It is connected to a SmartSolar 75|10 and I monitor it via a SmartShunt.

The battery is used to power LED lights and give power to a couple of small electrical loads. Everything is connected to the load output of the charge controller, works perfectly fine. With the lights on I draw around 24W.

Battery charges correctly, everything is fine.

I also have (wired directly to the battery/shunt) a 1000W inverter.
It doesn't get used much, and generally with loads of about 50/150W for 10/15 minutes maximum.

So far so good.

I sometimes want to connect a much bigger load (air compressor). It runs for less than a minute generally, unless it is fully empty, in which case it will run for a couple of minutes, (but this case will happen less than once a month).

The compressor is rated at 700W. When used, the SmartShunt measures about 900W (and a healthy 86A) but the battery voltage drops down to 10.5 under that load.

The SmartShunt indicates about 20 minutes remaining energy (at 50% SoC) under that load.

I used it a couple of times to test it. Battery SoC went down about 10% (as indicated in the app), charged happily in the next day or so.

Questions are:

– how much would be an acceptable voltage drop under an heavy load for that AGM battery (cannot find data online)?

– any pointers on how to properly calculate battery capacity to run something like that?

Thanks in advance.

er-minio asked
michelg edited ·

3 Answers

Your experience selling your Victron devices after upgrade

As the title says, this is not a technical question.

This is related to the value of a Victron device after 3-4 years and how much is supported or not by Victron certified installers. Please share here what was you experience.

My 4 years since I have the system, I did several changes/upgrades. Normally, I've tried all the time to recuperate some of the investment by selling the "old" devices...if 2-3-4 years means old. There were cases of buyers knowledgeable and experienced to install themselves....all the others I've recommended them to contact a certified Victron installer to support. There was no single case that an installer would support them.

Now, I'm selling 8 batteries Victron Gel 220Ah, 4 years old...that were in average for the 4 years duration discharged around 5%. In total I got 1.900KWh out of them, and based on the last months reports out of VRM they have more than 96% health and an internal resistance between 3 and 4 miliohm.

One possible buyers, after discussing with a certified Victron installer was told they are not recommending these batteries, as they are old, and they can vouch only for Lithium. I would say great, but then Victron please stop selling any other type of batteries other than Lithium...or update the specs papers, and reduce the lifespan to 3-4 years.

cristimv asked
Matthias Lange - DE answered ·

3 Answers

NiFe battery with multi 24/3000/70 what are the recommended settings

I'm attracted to these batteries as a long term asset. Should I go DC coupled? AC coupled? Where can I find other users with nickel iron experience?

fungi asked
marekp commented ·

16 Answers

226 Posts
367 Users

Topic Experts

33 Points
Jake Kennedy
22 Points
1 Points