If I look to my statistics in VRM on 30 days there is a big difference between how many power that comes from or go’s to the battery. In my opinion this difference can only be as large as my battery size.
setup: multiplus II go 48/5000 , 6 x Pylontech 2000 battery and a mppt 450/100
Hello everyone, I am almost confuse about to monitoring 3 MPPT Smartolar charge controllers that we are going to connect to the Cerbo GX. Because the solar installation is more than 20 years old, "unfortunately" we have 3 string of solar panels connected with 3 battery banks and after by schottky diodes to the load (MM.WW. system), but we can´t optimize the banks because the space of each one is limited to joint them on one battery bank. for that reason we should monitor each MPPT Charge controller separately. Is it possible to monitor each MPPT (PV power, BAT power and load consume) or each MPPT should be connected to a GX device?.
Thanks for your support.
Jonathan Carrasco from Chile
Hi, I'm currently in the process of building a 3kwp pv system. Im not sure how many batteries I will need. The batteries need to be either 12v or 24v if possible. Thankyou.
I just can't figure this out and it's driving me nuts. There are similar posts but never a working solution?
I have two 6v Golf Cart batteries connected in series. 230 Ah. System settings and wiring below.
Victron reports 10.4 amps used, and says that's 97.2% of 230 amps. (is that not 95.4%?)
But when you take their 97.2% of 230, that SHOULD BE 6.44 Amps used?
HOW DOES THAT WORK?! What am I missing here?
What I've done:
- Fully charged the batteries to 100%.
- I then let them let sit for 2 days to stabilize voltages (Completely disconnected all power leads - only thing connected was the BMV 712 - just the little power wire)
- Battery read 12.8v after the two days (The little BMV power wire was still connected)
- I did as the manual states to set zero current:
A zero current calibration is (almost) never needed. Only perform this procedure in case the battery monitor shows a current while you are absolutely sure that there is no actual current flowing. The only way to be sure of this, is to physically disconnect all wires and cables connected to the side of the shunt. Do this by unscrewing the shunt bolt and remove all cables and wires form that side of the shunt. The alternative, which is switching off loads or chargers, is NOT accurate enough as it does not eliminate small standby currents.
- To me, it should not matter the state of the battery when you set Zero Current?
(There is NO current flowing as the battery is disconnected)
Can someone explain it like I'm 5? LOL
So far everything else seems to work like it should, but I'm still confused as to what my battery state really is?
Battery reports full when I believe it to be from the converter (and also the MPPT charger on the solar reports the battery to be full as well)
At the VERY LEAST, what is more accurate, the percentage, the amps used or the voltage?
(So far, I've been following Amps and watching the Voltage reading and trying to make an educated guess that way) Voltage will read 12.1v when the percent still reads in the low 70's? Is that not empty? So confused :(
To me the percentage is so far out of wack that it make ZERO sense. This battery monitor DOES NOT help me monitor my batteries :(
The battery is manufactured by East Penn MFG also called (DEKA) its a GC15.
Two batteries connected in series will be 230Ah. (130Ah useable)
- Reserve Capacity at 25A is 448 Minutes
- RC at 75A is 120 minutes
- The Peukert’s coefficient for most use cases for this battery is 1.24
What is the recommended Bulk, Absorb, Float, Equalize and maintainer parameters?
- Bulk charge to 2.35 volts per cell and hold for Absorption. (14.1v for two in series)
- Float charge at 2.25 volts per cell. (13.5v for two in series)
- To compensate for battery temperature not at 20°C:
- subtract 0.005 V/cell for each 1°C above 20°C;
- add 0.005 V/cell for each 1°C under 20°C.
- An Equalization charge can be done at 15.5 volts.
Max bulk charging current is <=30A per 100 Ah (C20). So for this 230 Ah battery, that's 69 amps. (If charging a pair in series, it's still 69 amps.)
Hello, i want to integrate the Color Control GX with my sodium batteries (Fiamm 48TL200), but, unfortunately the Collor Control GX does not support this batteries BMS, i want to develop the support. There's some tutorial or some kind of documents i can use to do this integration?
Je viens vers vous car je n'arrive pas à trouver réponses sur le branchement optimal de batteries.
Matériel : 2 batteries 200Ah avec 1 BMS sur chaque batterie, 1 Lynx Power In
Besoin : Rester en 12V, donc pas de branchement en série. Ça, c'est fait.
Par conséquent, il ne reste que deux possibilités : en parallèle ou en indépendant ( chaque batterie est connectée au Lynx ).
Mes questions :
Mieux vaut-il connecter en parallèle pour obtenir les 400Ah, ou, et c'est ici que ça se corse : connecter chaque batterie en indépendant + et - sur le Lynx ( 2 câbles pour chaque batterie ) ?
Si l'on fait de cette manière ( 2 batteries indépendantes sur le Lynx ), quelle est la valeur des Ah, 200Ah ou quand même 400Ah ?
Si l'on connecte 2 batteries de différents Ah en indépendant sur le Lynx, exemple avec 1 batterie 200Ah et 1 batterie 100Ah, les ampères s'additionnent pour obtenir au total 300Ah ?
Est-ce réalisable ?
Si l'on connecte en parallèle 2 batteries, que les batteries sont de même Ah, mais ne sont pas du même fabriquant ou du même lot, j'ai lu que ceci engendrera des risques d'usure prématurée, est-ce correct ?
Je vous remercie de m'avoir lu déjà et je me réjouis de vos réponses écarlates.
I have had a simple grid-tied 5kW PV system for some years.
I have recently added 3 x RedFlow ZBM2 batteries, which means a total of 30kWh, but an available usable 20kWh at any instant (allowing for maintenance strip cycle of these batteries).
I want to reserve 4kWh for my own grid-failure backup use, and export the additional 16kWh to the grid each night. I have rooftop capacity for charging the batteries.
Once the system is configured to export this additional 16kWh to the grid each night, I will know how many more batteries to install, with the ultimate goal of exporting 5kW (1Ø household limit) to the grid constantly, day and night.
As far as I can tell, I have had all the necessary hardware installed, including:
So far, the system is working correctly, charging the batteries, and providing backup power for the house, but the additional grid export is not happening yet, and I'll make the system available to the utility for FCAS once I've sorted the export out. I have not yet seen any additional grid export at all - my usual daily averages of 35kWh production / 21kWh consumption have continued unchanged.
Any suggestions for getting the additional export from the batteries happening?
I have a BMV-712 connect to 2xVictron Super Cycle batteries, today my monitor started reporting an incorrect battery voltage of 0.02 or 0.03V. This is on both the device itself and the android app (via bluetooth), nothing has changed in my system except for taking a firmware update on the app.
I've checked the voltage with a meter and its reading 13.08 from the shunt to my fuse where the power supply for the BMV is located. I also unscrewed the inline fuse and looks to be intact, just to be sure i checked the voltage from the end of the fuse to the shunt and again was 13.08V so seems to definitely be a software / device issue? I've done a number of factory resets without any joy always just displays the .02V after the reset.
Kind of out of ideas here and would welcome suggestions.
Hello! I have a battery bank with these batteries in series. How do I set up the BMV-712 to monitor all of them? I am guessing to set it up as if there were two batteries, using the first and last. Is this right?
I am about to install the 500A/50mV-Shunt to my self-made battery (LiFePo4) system and bought the correct temp sensor for the connection with Vbatt+ and Aux.
As I have connected my cells main positive to a copper strip (20x3mm) in order to be able to use bigger lugs (the battery cells only have M6), and the heavy duty lug on the temp sensor has a M10 hole, I was wondering where I should ideally connect it:
A, at the raw cells’ main positive
B, at the battery input of the main fuse, supplying it with power even when the fuse has blown.
C, at the fuse output, NOT supplying it with power, after the fuse has blown, but with a fitting M10 bolt. This is where I will connect the distribution bus bar with all my loads and chargers.
Also, I was wondering whether I could install a manual switch in the positive cable of the temp sensor, making it possible to turn off the shunt and prevent micro current in case I want to store the battery.
I have a Victron Smart Solar MPPT, BlueSmart IP65 and Orion-Tr in my setup. Am I understanding it correctly that the temperature sensor of the SmartShunt supplies all of these with the temperature reading when in the same network as the others, in order to optimize charging?
Thanks in advance for your answers!
P.S.: Of course, I have a BMS between the battery main negative and the shunt, I just didn’t draw it in the above scribble, as the temp sensor should be connected to the positive side, as shown in the manual.
I'm installing a BMV-712 in my RV. I have two 12v batteries connected in parallel. I was going to connect both battery negative wires to the "Battery" post on the Victron shunt. But, the quick start guide shows the negative wires from each battery going to opposite sides of the shunt. The quick start guide referred to the second battery as a starter or auxiliary battery. In my case, it's neither of these. My question is do I connect both negative battery cables to the "battery" side of the shunt or one on each side of the shunt?
Hello Victron Community,
I am trying out something new, and if it works, it could be a regular thing.
Victron is launching a new product, and in the spirit of the community I would like to give you all an opportunity to ask any questions that you might have.
This gives you a chance to learn about something first, and also helps us to improve the initial documentation with some of the things that people might like to know that we haven’t thought about yet.
The product is called the Lithium SuperPack battery.
The big difference between this range and our other ranges is an integrated BMS and safety switch. No additional components are needed as the internal switch will disconnect the battery in case of over discharge, over charge or high temperature. Simple and safe.
The SuperPack range comes in 5 sizes – 20, 60, 100 and 200Ah at 12.8V, plus a 25.6V 50Ah.
They can be connected in parallel without limit. But not connected in series.
They are rated for 2,500 cycles to 80% depth of discharge at 25°C
Charge voltages, current capacities and full specifications are listed in the datasheet:
So, are there any questions?
One of my 300ah batteries (600ah system) drops cell voltage under load (1500watt load via 3000 multiplus)
Yes temperature is slightly high, but it's the same at lower Temps.
The voltage comes back normal once the load subsides.
Is this a bad sign? Anything I should do to rebalance these?
I have a SmartSolar charge controller MPPT 100-20 + one solar panel of 190w monocrystalline perc
We are using 2x MPPT 100/20 controllers with 4x 115W solar panels on our yacht.
Thanks in advance for any help to set up our new installation.
I'm busy thinking about changing to lithium batteries.
There is a lot of choice out there.
Pylon is very popular and they make many claims about life and performance - does anyone have any real-world experience especially in the victron ecosystem?
Victron LiFEPO4 also look good but are way more expensive and on paper have a less exciting set of specs and guarantee.
Paper and practice aren't the same thing, so I have much more confidence victron would deliver what is promised. (You also need at least two for a 48V inverter).
Thoughts and comments welcomed.
Wonder what cells are inside the Victron blue case? Check this one.
In addition to the price, what are the disadvantages of lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries?
If the price of lifepo4 comes down, will no one buy the lead-acid battery?
Is it possible for a Multiplus-II setting to keep batteries charged without using ESS? When I try to load the assitant it will ask for a Grid Code but there are no grid codes for my country, also we don't need to feed back power to the grid.
I want to be able to isolate my batteries from load via external trigger signal but allow charge current to flow into the battery in the same conductor.
can this be done?
I replaced my existing PWM controller, which works fine, with a Victron MPPT 75 I 10 in order to get better yield in winter.
After installation Green and Yellow LEDs BOTH blink permanently
Checked battery and panel voltages - within range.
Tried with different battery but problem persists.
Tried different jumper settings (and none).
Reverted to PWM all OK.
It looks as though I must be missing something basic (like a reset button?) with the Victron?
I have batteries (12V 110Ah gel deep cycle) labeled "BAT412101100" and "1410" can I determine production date from these numbers?
I have 12 OPZS 1200 Ah batteries from ENERSYS: lead, plates, flooded. In veconfig I set my batteru type as flooded, plates, deep discharge. Is it correct?
How can I set automatic weekly equalize with that setting which seems to work only for tubular plates?
Hello, can you tell me if the manufacturer's battery data MG master will work in tandem with VE.Bus BMS will full battery protection be ensured?
I was unable to find an answer, but please point me to it, if I missed it.
I currently have a 4 PV LG array of 1600W and a 2 PV array of 340W, the former on a Victron MPPT 150/70 and the later MPPT 150/35. They are both connected to copper busbars, then to six 100Ahx12 LFP batteries (2s3p) for 7200W, also running through a 500A Victron SmartShunt; as well as a Victron Multiplus 24/3000/70 inverter.
The batteries are all the same make, chemistry and capacity. Im going to add 2 more, and want to split the single bank into two banks, 2s2p2p, 4800W each @ 24v. I was going to add a smarthsunt or BMV to each bank to monitor its individual SOC, as well as a third 'main' smartshunt connecting both banks to the NEG busbar. Each bank is fused and has a dedicated cut off switch. The individual battery bank shunts will have a 24v200A capacity set, and the main shunt a 24v400A capacity setting.
So, essentially, treating each bank (of 4 batteries) as a single 24v200Ah battery running in parallel with a duplicate. Can I simply connect both banks to the busbar, and expect good performance for the system?
J’ai une installation d’éclairage dans mon garage constitué de leds en 12V de 30/60W ce qui fait 2.5/5A ainsi qu’un onduleur qui fait du 230V que j’utilise ponctuellement.
Après avoir fusillé plusieurs batteries de voiture je cherche à investir dans une vraie batterie.
Pouvez-vous me conseillez la meilleure batterie pour mon utilisation ?
Je ne sais pas quelle technologie est la meilleure entre AGM Deep cycle, AGM Super cycle et la GEL.
Je pense prendre une batterie d’une capacité de 165/170Ah et ne pas consommer plus de 30% ce qui me fait environ 10h d’utilisation sous 5A avant de la recharger.
Pour ce faire j’aimerai vous prendre un afficheur de charge. Est-ce que le type BMV 700, est ce dont j’ai besoin, le Shunt 500A max correspond bien à ces batteries ?
Un capteur de température est-il nécessaire ?
Je vous remercie pour votre aide et vos conseils, avec mes meilleurs messages.
I want to put a double pole MCB between a MultiPlus-II 48/3000/35-32 and 3 48V Pylontech batteries.
Pylontech recommends 25A for each Package and it supports up to 100A of discharge for each Package.
Victron states in manual:
-You must have the minimum number of battery modules to supply the inverters startup inrush surge currents that charge the capacitors when the inverter is first connected, this occurs prior to any loads being connected. For this Inverter, 2 Batteries are minimum.
-Victron recommends a 125A MCB between battery and Inverter, since its Peak power is 5500Watt (3000 AC Load + 1500 feeding in shore power)
We dont want to feed in the shore power, so only ac loads left. 3000 W / 48 V = 62,5 A. So an 80A MCB should be fine, but maybe the Inverter wants to pull more current? Maybe the stated 125A due to the startup inrush current?
I found 3 MCBs (80A, 100A, 125A) from the same series from ABB
I really would like to use an 80Amp MCB, so that the Inverter does not pull much more than the calculated 62,5 Amps.
Do you think the 80Amp MCB will "handle" the startup inrush current?
Does the MCB could have a minimum operating Voltage(Datasheet not found)? Is 48V fine?
Is the rated Ultimate Short-Circuit Breaking Capacity (Icu):(800 V DC) 5 kA enough for a 7,2kWh battery system?
If you have remommendations for other MCBs, please share.
System details :
I'm running an ESS system and noticed that the startup of large AC loads are being powered from the battery / inverter when on scheduled charge. The scenario is as follows:
Under these conditions, my understanding is that the system should be relying on the grid to power the loads (with minor background losses). What I'm seeing is that the batteries are used to support the startup of large loads while the grid contribution is slowly ramped up over a few seconds. In the screenshot below, we were using a clothes iron that switched on and off frequently. This resulted in large loads being pulled from the battery each time the element switched on and corresponding charges pushed to the battery when the load switched off. Any way to change the behaviour and get the system to rely on the grid in this scenrio?
Here is less extreme example where a kettle is switched on and pulls 14A from the battery during a scheduled charge period:
Using a Solar Charger - MPPT 450/100 couple with two Quattros 8000 48V and connected to a li ion 12S battery bank with a voltage range of 41-48.60V .
Once the voltage reaches around 47.50V the Solar Charger - MPPT 450/100 fires an alarm Low batt. voltage alarm: Alarm .
Why is that the case and how to get it switched off?
I am about to install a mp-II 5000/48 and a Smart inverter RS 450/100.
I was wondering if a battery is needed before the system will work?
The system is grid parallel
I Will wire the 48v terminals to each other, until battery and busbar arrive.