Yesterday i changed my low-voltage settings in VE configure. I set the low voltage pre-alarm and restart at 11.8 volts. I am running 2 x 230 ah agm super cycles.
Today i suddenly got overloaded with, for me, unnecessary VE bus low volotage L1 alarms.
From all the alarms i can only understand one of the last alarms; voltage dropped to 11,87 so that one seams logic for me. The rest of the alarms is when voltage is around 12,37 or higher. Why are these alarms?
Is the setting in VE configure the one that is connected to these alarms, or is the VE bus low voltage alarm connected to another setting? I disabled the alarm rulesin VRM so that is not the issue.
Battery SOC was around 97 percent and i am running within maximum discharge current of 92 amps
See pics below
I currently use the aux input on my BMV-712 and the Cerbo GX/VRM to monitor the start battery voltage in my boat. Being an aluminium boat I am making a few changes to the system to ensure that electrical systems are isolated from the hulls and that the start battery system is fully isolated from the house battery system. This means that the aux input on the shunt won't be able to read the start battery voltage any more, as they won't have a common ground.
What other ways can I get the start battery voltage into the cerbo GX and VRM for monitoring purposes?
A little more detail on the system if it helps:
- 2 x 25.6V 200AH Smart Lithium
- Multiplus 5k
- 4 x MPPT 100/20
- Cerbo GX
- Orion 24/12-70 for running 12V house loads
- Swapping the Orion 12/24-20 for a Orion TR Smart Isolated 12/24-15 for charging the house from the start batteries
If only the Orion TR Smart could do communications over BT or VEDirect this would be easy.
[image]My voltage on Cerbo GX and VictronConnect is correct but the percentage is incorrect. The SmartShunt is setup to be the provider for the voltage. My shunt is hooked up properly via battery minus/load minus but I do have the power cable from the shunt hooked up to a small fuse block instead of the batteries directly. Could that cause the drift? I’ve also never done a Zero Calibration.
Batteries are 500AH LifePo4 Battleborn Batteries
One thing that is interesting is that if I reboot the system by turning off and on the master disconnect switch, the percentage will correct itself.
Anyone ever deal with this percentage drift?
Connected to a multiplus 12-2000 are 2 x victron agm 230 super cycle in parallel.
Since yesterday i suddenly had a spike in charge voltage up to 15,61 Volts. After that the multiplus went into float stage and for 24 hours now wont be under 13,99 Volts (around 0,5 amps) , wich seems to high for me. Also, storage mode want kick in. Storage voltage is set at 13,35
What happend here?is this something due to adaptive charginf? Batteries are new so i am careful with it.
Best regards and thanks in advance.
I have multipluss 12/3000 connected to 2 x 230 Ah victron super cycle in parallel.
System is 3 weeks old. I suddenly noticed a voltage drop 2 weeks ago when someone was testing a vacuümcleaner on inverter. "Only" around 80 amps were drawn for few minutes and the voltage droppen until 11,89 Volts under load. Multipmus gave a short warning by red led status
Batteries were fully charged.
Totday again, batteries fully charged, a small test with watercooker and voltage droppen until 12,2 while taken 109 amps.
Is this normal? Batteries recover immediately after load stops.
Thanks in advance.
Please check date on image.
I am wondering:
I have a victron super cycle 230 ah battery. It is connected to a multiplus. The standard float voltage setting is 13,8 volts.
According the datasheet this battery's float voltage setting should be in between 13,2-13,5 volts.
From my understanding and what i have been told it is better to keep the float voltage a bit lower: Otherwise the battery get lazy and sulfatising might occur.
The idea is the battery voltage will drop a bit more and will start charging later as i understand. So the battery is charging less time.
Am i correct and what is the best setting?
I have connected the power of a Venus GX on a service battery and also a multiplus. Now I see on the VRM Website (monitor) a voltage of 9.6 Volt but my service battery has 12.5 Volt. Why is there a difference between the VRM monitor and the real voltage of the service battery?
I have a water turbine that is used to power a small kids shack ventilating fan next to a river, the input from the turbine is 2A (fluctuates), 12v. Will any of the charging control module for solar work for such an application? The load is 1.5A and I am planning to use a 12 V lead battery.
is it possible to get the values of the Resistors?
my Charger get up to 16,X Volts and like seen on the Picture, there are 3 burned resistors.
i dont know if the resistors are the reason or the impact for the problem so in first step i want to change the burned ones.
Hello, I have a victron
12v 3,000 watt inverter .
My houseboat is all electric
My big appliances are always at low voltage.
To low. The wire from batterys to inverter are .50 . I have 8 100amp batterys and 4 200 watt panels. The distance from batterys to inverter to circuit breakers are maximum 1 meter away for all.
What can I do to compensate low voltage other than purchasing a 24 or 36 volt inverter ? Cheers, John Payne
We have 2 x 6V 224Ah batteries in series hooked to a WFCO converter and while the converter/charger's bulk voltage is 14.4V (which it only enters after deep discharge), the absorption voltage output on this charger is only 13.6V and float is 13.2V. Meanwhile, my parallel solar charger (Victron 75/15) is set to 14.4V absorption and 13.8V float. Does this mean that the battery will only be fully charged if I have solar charging present? And if so, I'm wondering how to properly configure a BMV-712 monitor in terms of "charged" voltage - if I use 13.2V then the monitor might think the battery is full when it's not, but if I use for example 14V, the monitor may never show a full battery if I'm just charging off the converter (ie. Cloudy day / no solar).
Thank you for your help!
I have 2000W solar through 4 BlueSolar MPPT's 3x30 1x60amp with VE Direct cables to my Octo GX, also connected is my 12/3000/120 Multi.
Batteries are 2x RB300Ah Relion lithiums.
I have a BMV712 smart also connected to the Octo via VE Direct.
I am having the same issue as many with the MPPT battery voltage being different to the BMV voltage, I can see my controllers going to float as low as 70%SoC.
I have been told if I instal a Bluetooth sensor to the battery bank and network it to the BMV712 that this will become the default voltage for the entire system, has anyone done this with an Octo or can confirm it is correct.
[image]BMV has been triggering high voltage alarm over the last 24 HRS yet I see battery voltage to be normal
Good day to you all,
I have installed the following:
Solar array : 800W (Voc 43V)
1x MPPT charger is 100/50
1x Battery: Super pack 25.6V
The system worked well until, the battery was fully discharged and low voltage protection activated.
Than the MPPT couldn't start recharging the battery again. Voltage at the battery was 14.7 V with solar panel input (in float mode), and 0V without.
I discovered later that MPPT voltage auto detect was the issue, and changed the settings manually to 24V using the app. It looks like its working. I am waiting for another blackout to see it MPPT remember that setting.
Could the prolonged application of 14V (see in red below) from the MPPT on the battery had done some damages to it? Knowing the battery is not supposed to go below 20V.
Thank you for your inputs
|Days ago||Date||Yield(Wh)||Max. PV power(W)||Max. PV voltage(V)||Min. battery voltage(V)||Max. battery voltage(V)||Time in bulk(m)||Time in absorption(m)||Time in float(m)||Last error||2nd last error||3rd last error||4th last error|
good morning, I have read (not all given my difficulties with English ....) the book "energy Unlimited", and I have a couple of questions. I live in a camper with a 300 watt PV system, 30 A mppt regulator and 2 service batteries (1 + 1 or in parallel, Agm 100 ah and cheap start battery 100 ah) and an engine battery. The AGM is almost 3 years old and 900 cycles and still works almost at 100%, the start battery for the services was replaced after 2 years and 700 cycles with another similar one. I think I use them in the best way: Absorption at 14.4v and floating at 13.7v, with temperature compensation with sensor on the battery. The average working temperature is 25 degrees Celsius in the Canary Islands. My Tracer 3210 regulator is great but has an adjustable but fixed absorption time. Default to 120 minutes. However, I copy the algorithm of the victronenergy regulators. If I discharge the batteries in the evening, for example Vb> 12.6, I set 1 hour of absorption. If 12.2 <Vb <12.6, I imposed 2 h of absorption, etc ... The average discharge each night is at 12.55 v. However, while reading the book, I had some doubts about the float voltage. The book says that a 13.8v float for a long time damages the batteries due to excessive gasification ... especially the VRLA batteries. My batteries on average float from 12.00 / 13.00 to 17.00 / 18.00 (more time in summer, less time in winter). The alternator supplies 14.2 v and I connect it to the service batteries with victronenergy cyrix, almost only at night while traveling or traveling in the rain, for the fridge etc. So it's not a problem. In your opinion, what is the best absorption voltage compared to the usage data I have provided? For now I have lowered from 13.8 default to 13.65. If I took it to 13.2 / 13.4 v would I get some advantages in battery life or some disadvantages? Thanks and I apologize for the length.
I have a question about absorption voltage.
My question I about MultiPlus.
In VE Configure I can change the Temperature compensation. If I set the compensation to -15.6 mV/deg, I will get a maximum abs. voltage at 15.5V. This is what my battery supplier recommends, as max abs. voltage. (Tudor/EXIDE TR350/ER350, lead acid) But they also recommend me to set the temperature compensation for -30mV/deg.
Their reason for a max abs voltage around 15,5 is that equipment in the boat can be damage with higher voltage.
So, to my question: Is it possible to change the max abs. voltage after temperature compensation, or just put a limit. I still want 14.8 V at 25 deg.
I just remember that this, also applies to my SmartSolar 75/15, but this is in another boat. (But same battery)
After more than one year of perfectly stable operation with a ESS system comprised of a Multi-II 5KVA and a MPPT 150/100, 2x US2000B Venus OS 2.60, always in keep batteries charged mode, (for back-up for critical appliances) we've been experiencing random high and low voltage alarms from the system, which are unusually high (almost 54VCC sometimes). No LED alarm whatsoever on the batteries. DVCC is activated, SVS is off, MPPT in slave/BMS controlled.
We're trying to figure out this for two weeks now, we're in touch with Pylontech but so far they're not giving us conclusive answers. We've changed the battery monitor from "automatic" to "Pylontech Can.Bus" today to see if it changes anything. One explanation might be that they're not designed to run under a 100% SOC for extended period of times and thus might be internal cell imbalances that are not corrected as they're not discharged and cycled. Anyone can chime in ?
Thanks in advance,
Shema 50V problem.pdfI have a strange problem on a ship with a 24v system. When checking the electrical system, I found that if everything or Multiplus, MPPT, etc. is connected, apart from the negative consumer and the starter battery are also connected to the system, I can measure 50V on the negative cable of the consumer and the positive pole of the consumer batteries . If I remove the plus of the starter batteries, I measure normal about 24V. I don't think that's normal and it looks like a hidden series connection to me. If EVERYTHING is connected, the system has normal 24V and the 50V are no longer visible. Maybe I'm making a mistake and don't see the forest for the trees. Does anyone have any idea why that is?
I was wondering what is the true reading of a AGM battery under a heavy load ( 150 watts)
The manufacture of my battery says the halfway mark is 12.4 volts ( 50% ) When I power on my television, I keep it on until it reaches 12.4 but then the voltage increases back up to 12.65 after it’s turned off
I guess my question would be this- would the 12.4 constitute a true halfway mark when running the television because of voltage decrease under a load ?
Or is it safe to run it lower than 12,4 if it bounces back to 12.65 ?
I have noticed that Victron records the lowest number under a load even after it bounces back up.
After reading all previous questions and answers associated with my issue I still cannot find a fix for my problem.
The BVM is mounted very close to the 24V battery (30cm) and connected with 35mm2 cable. The MPPT regulators are 100cm away and connected to the battery via 16mm2 cable.
The issue regards the inaccurate voltage reading on my BVM-702 as it does not agree with my two digital multi-meters nor my two Victron MPPT charge controllers. The BVM is consistently showing 0.8V lower than all these other devices.
I have tried replacing the in-line fuse on the BVM with a larger 1A fuse and even joined the wires together to bypass a fuse completely but the low reading is the same.
When measuring battery voltage using my meters, it makes no difference if I measure from the negative pole of the battery bank or either posts on the actual BVM shunt.
I tried replacing the communications cable from the shunt to the display just because I was running out of ideas........but it made no difference.
My final attempt at a fix was to swap out the shunt for a completely brand new one which I was able to borrow but unfortunately there was no change.
Any ideas very much appreciated
i have two Winner W280S (280Ah) as a Strip to get 24V for my inverter. Now i want to make a Profile for the correct Voltages for charging them both. Here are the voltages that Winner says they should be:
- Bulk 14,8V
- Absorption 15,4V
- Float 13,7V
so, i think i take them all as 2x. But whitch one is the right one in the profile? There i have:
- Absorption Voltage
- Float Voltage should be 27,4V
- Equalisation Voltage
Thanks a lot for your help!
I installed Voltage sense wires to my battery bank on the L2 or slave inverter and it does not seem to be seeing the difference in voltage that the batteries are at when under load. It still appear to be getting its info from the inverter cables. Do I need to enable this somewhere or does it need to be connected to the master inverter?
I own a Victron MPPT and a Smartbattery Disconnect. I've tried Victron CS on several occasions to help me with my below problem; with the typical "no response" (Victron you should work on your customer service). My dilemma is this...
Both items listed above read in the 13.x volts when I charge my LiFePO4 12v batteries. The "read" is coming in on my BT Victron app. HOWEVER...when I put a voltmeter on each battery I get a reading for each battery as full (14V...ish). I know this is correct as I just charged them.
With that, I've tried to factory reset on both Victron items hoping that would resolve the issue. It didn't. What am I missing?
Thanks in advance for everyone's help.
Hi. I have a 48/3000 multiplus. In the technical book it is written that the maximum input voltage = 66V DC. But when it reaches 64.7V it stops. How can I adjust it to work up to 66V. Thank you
[image]I just installed 2 new Duracell AGMs (100ah) in my camper. I reset the history on my BMV700. Watched a few hours of TV last night, ran the water pump a few times. Wake up in the morning to my batteries at 12.24V.
BMV shows SOC at 94% and only used 19AH. Why is my voltage so low? Did I get bad batteries?
I have rather simple system, I think, for my van. Trying to charge a house battery from solar and vehicle battery. For now I am just trying to get the Solar to work independently ( leave the DC/DC charge out of equation for now). I have looked at the Victron Van concept, which is much more over complicated in comparison to my setup. So I am having troubles understanding the schematic I need.
The MPPT keeps charging the battery well past 13.2V. (I recently changed this down from 13.9V, but it didnt help) It will continue on up towards and past 14V, then battery will read "Busy" , fully charged and stop taking charge. Then it sends a Over Voltage Alarm, referring to "Allow-to-charge contact"
What stops the MPPT or DC/DC from charging when the battery gets fully charged? Do I need an additional Battery Protect? I am not sure if I am missing equipment or have the wrong settings.
All Victron equipment:
12.8V 100Ah LiFePo4
Smart Solar MPPT 75/15
Orion Tr Smart 12/12-30
Smart Battery Protect 12/24-100 (1)
BMV 712 Smart
VE Bus BMS
Lynx Distributor 1000 ( which I dont think I even need)
2 - 100W Renogy
I own a Mercedes Sprinter with a Volta Power Systems 13.5kWh rig. It's being used for mobile sound recording. Wanna put a small 6000btu Mitsubishi MUZ-FH06NA in it, powered off the 120v supplied by the Volta batteries. Can I use the Victron autotransformer 120/240 32a? If not, what would be the best way to accomplish this?
My system uses the ESS assistant and would normally discharge to the "minimum" or "active" SOC limit. Currently, this is at 30% for both. However, in the last month or so, the system is only reaching 38%, even if I switch off-grid. It seems to be switching at the sustain voltage (50v). The battery seems to be healthy and it's BMS is not giving any error. Also, the battery is charged to 100% every day. I even kept the batteries charged for 3 days but when trying it this morning it switches again at 38%.
Is this a setting issue (which has not been changed) or a battery issue? Or should I be checking something else?
Guys need help with a Lead Crystal Battery that I have (spec supplied) do I set the same as a AGM battery with my BMV -712 Smart?