Has anyone used Anderson Power connectors to connect battery packs to a bus bar?
3/0 or 4/0 gauge wire.
I would like to be able to remove a battery without having to unscrew lugs.
Thank you, Jeff
[image]The larger "350".
I have 3 x 12V 95Ah AGM's in parallel and plan is to charge the bank with Dolphin charger when connected to shore power.
Which of below modes you'd choose for setup? If I got it right, "Calcium lead" mode would have the right voltages? I'm planning to use one of the posts of charger to connect the starter battery which is a traditional 12v battery so it would need the "Wet & flooded" option but which one you see would be a best option for this combo with 3 AGM and one wet battery?
When using disk batteries and a True brand battery isolator.. Do you hook the charger too the main battery or the auxillary battery?
And, will both batteries charge and be kept maintained?
My ip65 22/10 Bluesmart charger is permanently installed in a camper, please can anyone tell me if I switch to power supply mode while connected to 230v and use 12v lights etc will this be ok or should I leave the charger in charging mode and use the 12v lights etc. Does the power supply mode mean the leisure battery will not be being drained.
Thanks in advance
I found different information in (german) datasheet and manual for the Multiplus 24/1600 about the diameter of the battery connection.
The datasheet says 35mm and the manual says only 25mm.
Which information is correct?
And if someone knows which diameter is necessary for a connection of about 2m it would be good to know as well.
Thanks in advance :)
Is it ok to hook 2 inverters each take on (first) 24v and (second) 24v in a 48v battery bank? The two will combine to create a 240v split phase.
Getting ready to install a 12v quattro system with 6 batleborn batteries via a Lynx shunt and distributor. I see that the Quatto calls for the 12v inputs to be doubled- should the 4/0 cable be doubled all the way to the battery connection points, or just coming from the Lynx to the Quattro?,
Just getting started here, so apologies in advance if the answer is obvious. The Multiplus manual suggests double 50mm cables and a 400A fuse on the main battery connection. If I calculate my maximum current draw from the battery due to both DC and A/C loads, it's way less than this. I'm assuming that the charging current to the 12V 200AH LifePo4 battery is less than or equal to the recommended max of 100A. So why such large cables and fuse? Could one not size the wire and fuse based on what's actually going to be used? In my case, I would think 150A would be more than enough.
But I'm probably missing something...
I’m considering wiring each of my 4 LIFPO batteries to the Lynx Distributor separately. I’m wondering if anyone with experience has thoughts on the following:
1) Do the wires to each battery need to each be the exact same length? I know it’s important in traditional parallel wiring for wire lengths to be equal, but haven’t seen anything on this when wiring directly to the Distributor.
2) Is battery balancing impacted with direct wiring as compared to traditional parallel wiring each of the batteries together with diagonal positive and negative terminals wired to the Lynx Distributor?
3) any thoughts on cost efficiencies of wiring each battery directly to the Lynx Distributor? Smaller wires, but more fuses, etc.
I have a simple Solar setup, using MPPT 75 I 15, a Siemens Solar Panel M110-24 and a 12V110Ah battery.
I want to add more battery capacity, and I'll buy a new battery, like 12V200Ah, but it'll be different from age and capacity, I was wondering if it's advised to connect them in parallel (same length cable size)?
if not, what's your advise? thanks in advance,best regards.
[image]Hi, new in electric connexions, i wander if my connexion is good or bad ? Thanks for your kind help
I am busy commissioning an ESS system using a Multiplus II, SmartSolar and Pylontech batteries. The latest draft South African regulations recommends that the battery terminals be left floating (i.e. neither + nor - are grounded), whereas Victron recommends that the negative battery terminal be grounded.
Because of the potentially large fault currents that may be involved (and thus requiring thick cables) I am tempted to cut costs and effort and not ground either battery terminal, leaving the batteries floating. (The chassis for the SmartSolar and batteries will still be grounded, as well as the PV array frames.)
Is this configuration supported by the SmartSolar? Can I expect any operational issues if I go this route?