I have the controller set at the default 2 position on the dial. The first time I set it up, it got up to 14.4v and went to absorption, then to float. My battery was fully charged. The last two days (everything is new) my battery seems to get “stuck” at around 12.7 volts. I have 200 watts of solar. My battery is back up to 12.6 by noon, but it’s never getting higher Despite it being sunny. All afternoon I see anywhere from 70- 100 watts and 5-6 amps from my panels, but my battery voltage is refusing to rise.
FWIW, the battery and charger are in the same space and are the same temperature. Connections look tight. Things worked on my first charging run also, but not now. It was also in full Sun and got that day too. I’m stumped. Any ideas?
Is this combination of components possible to utilize for the desired outcome of a 33v charge?
I've currently got the 12/24v buck boost converter in use but it can only charge my batteries to 30v. (my batteries are 28-33v operational)
I want to take that 30v and boost it to 33v and it seems the only way would be to use the Orion converter then send that into an MPPT.
Is this possible?
I've built some solar power systems in the past around lead-acid batteries, and they're generally fairly straightforward because of the ease of charging lead-acid. For example, I could feed a lead-acid pack with both a solar charge controller and a wind charge controller wired in parallel.
But now I want to build something with more options based around lithium battery chemistry. I feel like this has been done over and over, but I'm having a hard time finding an overview.
I want a battery-powered system of DC and AC loads (this part is easy enough), with solar, wind, and grid power inputs. The grid power has to be flexible, 120/240 V, 50/60 Hz. And it needs grid isolation (this is a marine application). And the batteries are lithium (probably LiFePO4), with all their attendant charging requirements (I know a lot of large Li batteries have some built-in BMS capability). And note that the DC load can be quite large at times (peaks of 20 - 40 kW). I don't think Victron makes anything that operates over 48 V, but 72V or 96V for the pack voltage would be a nice perk.
Are there any resources describing such a system? Thanks!
Der MPC ist im Boot verbaut. Mit Landstrom funktioniert alles einwandfrei. Wenn unser Generator läuft, lädt er aber nicht, sondern arbeitet weiterhin als Wechselrichter.
Die Spannung am Generator wird gesteuert und hat 230V
Die Frequenz am Generator wird überwacht und ist zwischen 45 und 65Hz
Alle Geräte an Bord, vom Ladegerät über Pumpen und Computer funktionieren mit dem Generator.
Woran kann es liegen? Was kann ich tun, damit es klappt?
vielen Dank im Voraus.
I have just two batteries attached to the Bluesmart IP22 20A charger but the app doesn't show any indication of this. Am I right in saying the app wont show seperate battery states / types but only give you whats its outputting over both terminals combined. For example I have a deeply discharged engine battery due to a parasite draw somewhere but how can I tell that the right setting is applied to the right battery. There is no way of knowing...or is it me being stupid and missing a slide button somewhere??
[image]we have a small teardrop trailer with the MPPT 75/10 and panels, our original battery only lasted 6 months but it appears it was always showing solar watts. i am attaching 3 screenshots if someone can tell me if it looks correct. I am assuming that my battery is good now so it is mostly in float or bulk mode.
This question has been on my mind for ages - and now I have a nice new Victron 12/30 charger, it's about time I resolved it!
Traditionally I was always led to believe that in a situation where multiple charge sources were available - ie solar, 220v and engine - it was OK to leave them all connected, and the battery would just take its charge from wherever it could.
But these days everything is digital, and both my Epever solar controllers and now my new Victron charger have charging profiles - so I am now worried that if 2 digital charge sources are always present, being switched on and off randomly, and load being taken out of the battery, also randomly - which is basically how a boat or motorhome installation works ... won't all the algorithms fight each other, and result in confused charging cycles?
Basically I have a choice - connect and forget, or manually switch - it wouldn't be a hassle for me to disconnect solar when 220v is present.
Some expert guidance would be welcome.
Any update on VE.Smart networking for the Orion Smart Tr DC to DC chargers? I'll have an MPPT and two 30A DC to DC chargers and it would be excellent if they all knew each other on the same battery bank.
[moderator's note: edited to show "VE.Smart Networking" rather than "VE.Bus Networking"]
Hi to all,
I have an EasySolar-II-GX 48/3000 system that went live yesterday and won't charge the battery bank. There is sufficient PV voltage. System parameters are:
- PowerPlus Energy (Aust) Lipo battery bank installed, user defined battery settings as per spec.
- Off grid system & no generator. A.C charge capability disabled.
- Multiplus firmware V471
- MPPT firmware V1.46
- GX device firmware V2.53
It appears the MPPT controller is stuck in OFF state as the remote input to it is held LOW by the GX device. Remote input voltage level checked with multimeter at 0 volts.
If I remove the remote control link wire from GX to MPPT and bridge MPPT remote input (H to L) as per manual then the MPPT operates as expected and charges batteries.
My question is, under what circumstances does the GX device inhibit the MPPT charge operation?
I have updated all firmwares and may have inadvertently upset one of the settings somewhere so an incorrect setting may be the cause.
Any help appreciated.
Kind regards, Andrew.
I'm collecting info on my options outside of solar to reach a charge voltage of 33v for my Nissan Leaf house batteries in my camper van.
Perhaps I can use multiple Orion 24/48 8.5amp converters in parallel, fed by my 12/24 100/50amp Victron buck boost converter then run through an MPPT to perfectly dial in the charge output to 33v.
I know it's not the simplest solution, but I've already got the buck boost converter running, however it can only output 30v, so im losing the bulk of my batteries charge by not going up to at the very least 32v.
I had a Orion Smart installed on my Campervan to charge a Smart Lithium 12V/160Ah battery. My basic vehicle is a 2020 Fiat Ducato with an 'intelligent' alternator. When driving with a constant speed the Orion did not start charging as the input voltage was quite stable at 12.2V and thus constantly below the start voltage of 14V. I then changed the settings so that the Orion will start charging at around 12V input voltage and it did. BUT as soon as the output voltage stabilizes the input voltage drops to around 10.2V, the Orion cuts off, input voltages raises, Orion starts, input drops and so on.
What can be the cause of this? Is there something I can check? I would be really happy if someone had an idea how to correct this!
Thanks a lot, Michael
Hi there, thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
I've just finished my solar setup in our small van and turned everything on. Everything appears to be working properly except the DC Charger is not powering on. My MPPT solar charge controller right next to it powered on just fine. Any tips from the community on how I can check what the problem might be?
Does this sound like the unit itself malfunctioned somehow, or did I set something up wrong? I shouldn't need to connect the charger itself to the Starter Battery or the Alternator for this to work, as long as I have it connected to the battery bank, correct?
This is from my RV's system. It looks like the PV voltage is too low to charge? Is that normal? My RV battery is 12V, why is it showing up 20V+?
Hi - I have a Blue Smart IP22 Charger 12v 30A charger hooked up to 3 95aH AGM batteries in parallel. This has been used on shore power without issue to charge batteries from around 95% to 100% without issue, however when I've used this at home to charge from 85% it seems to have blown the 5amp fuse in the UK plug, has anyone else had issues with this, or can suggest any reasons why it would be blowing this fuse? To me it seems like 5amp for this fuse is small on a 30amp charger but I'm trusting it's right as that's what came from the supplier? Thanks!
I have the following system at home wich is grid tied:
Multiplus-II 5000 with MPPT 250/100 charger, 2400w of 400W Jinko Panels, 1 x Pylontech US3000c 3.5kw battery.
If I know beforehand that we will have a power outage or loadshedding I set the SOC to 100% in ESS. But when the grid comes back on and the batteries get charged during the day with PV energie, the charging is very erratic. If I change the SOC to anything else (i.e. 95%) then it charges normally according to outside conditions and the charge doesn't fluctuate. What could be happening?
I am trying to install a new Skylla 12-70 (1) battery charger; It appears that the battery cables are secured under 10mm 'nylock' nuts that are on studs? They are very tight from the factory; we we remove these and secure the cables with them? I always treated Nylock nuts as one time devices but there was no other hardware in the box and they surely don't want us to attach the batteries ON TOP of those nuts. Can't find anything about this.
hello everyone I have two victron 12-12 30 amps chargers wired in parallel with fuses on the input and output. when I start the van they b both turn on then after about 2 mins one turners off because no detection of engine. the other will stay in bulk charge for about a minute then turn off then turn back on for a minute. I don't know if the problem is my alternator is to small or faulty victron product
I wonder what happens when the Auxiliary Battery gets disconnected suddenly during a charging process? For example in an emergency situation when I flip the main switch. Is it dangerous and could damage the Orion? Or no Prob at all, the Orion turns off the Input fast enough?
So recently I had an issue with my 4A charger for my deep cycle battery and found out that I’ve been using an underpowered charger for my 100ah AGM.
Ive purchased an ip65 15A from now on. As I’ve been informed that I should be charging my battery at 10% of the capacity of the battery. This raises another question for me.
Can someone tell me why it’s generally perceived as acceptable to use 200-250w solar panels for charging AGM Batteries, even though most of those panels would struggle to output 10A let alone 10% of a larger battery?
Hi, I currently have a quattro 5000 with lithium bank 48v and I have my bms wired to the remote port on my smartsolar 150/85 which disables charging should one of the cells get to high, my question is can I also trigger this in the quatro or a multiplus to stop charging from an ac source (generator) should a cell voltage get too high? I had a look at manual for quatro but couldn't see easily, want to make sure I don't damage baterries by overcharging. Thanks.
I have a Phoenix Smart Charger IP42 50A 1+1 that I am using to charge my lithium bank (not victron, DIY build).
My problem is that only minutes after switching on the charger, even if batteries are almost empty, the charger goes to absorption stage. The voltage (as shown in screenshots below) have not reached my set absorption voltage. The charger is not charging at max capacity, not is it charging at any constant voltage. The voltage changes slightly up and down. I don't see how this should be possible?
I really just want my charger to go full power constant current until my BMS system switches it of. I have set the absorption voltage higher in the charger than in my BMS. I do not want to use the supply function in the charger since I like the fact that the settings in the charger will protect my batteries should the BMS fail somehow.
Now the absorption timer kicked in and it transitioned to float. Dropping the voltage and charge current even more.... :-(
Still nowhere near absorption voltage I set...
I have a 100ah lithium battery and a IP65 15A charger. I also have a Dakota Lithium 300W inverter. I was wondering if I could charge my battery with the IP65 charger running off of the inverter while I am driving in my vehicle. I have a 4Runner with a 400W DC output in the rear of the vehicle that the inverter would be plugged into. Would the 300W inverter be able to run the charger or does the charger draw too much power? Or is this even safe for any of the items.
My 12V battery is not charging and i am wondering if it is because the MPPT is configured for a 12V battery and the Cyrix Li charge is a 24/48 and so wont meet the criteria as MPPT outputs 14 V and wont therefore switch the relay.
Yesterday I replaced my house battery. I replaced a Battleborn Lithium bank with a new Battleborn Lithium bank - long story. The only difference is I changed from 6 batteries to 4 batteries (300ah down to 200ah @24v.) We're offgrid on a boat, so no access to shore power. Now, when I start the generator, the Quattro switches to bulk charge as it normally did, however after a few seconds it cuts off and switches back to "inverter" mode. If I put the switch on charger only, again it will charge and passthrough momentarily then it will just cut off. I've verified my generator voltage is will within the thresholds set in the Quattro settings, all other settings seem fine. Any suggestions on what I might try?
I've verified all connections are solid and cables are all of sufficient gauge (it worked fine for a year previously so I don't think that would be the issue).
Is it possible reducing to 4 batteries from 6 could be the issue?
Screenshots attached showing the Quattro's attempts to charge. It reverts to either passthrough or inverting but will not stay engaged in charge mode.
Note: Light sequence doesn't show any errors - basically Mains and Bulk light up, then turn off as Inverter turns on.
Hi! I am charging a 105Ah AGM leisure battery from my 12v DC-DC 30A Victron Orion smart charger. I have the Orion set up according to the specifications of the battery, 14.7v absorption charge and 13.7v float. According to the app, the battery charging has reached float stage, so the battery should be charged.
However, if I take a voltage reading at the battery terminals a few hours later it reads around 12.2v as opposed to the expected 12.9ish for a full battery. The battery is not connected to anything else. Could this be an issue with the Orions setting or more likely the battery, which was new 6 months ago. Thanks!
Will the Cyrix-Li-ct battery combiner overcharge/damage the Gel starter battery? The gel and LifePO4 batteries are connected together whenever one of the batteries has >= 13.4V (and the LifePO4's VE.Bus BMS isn't sending a charge disconnect), so when the alternator is on (rare), when the MPPT/solar is working (daily), and when the MultiPlus-II is charging the LifePO4 (likely often). Is this ok for the gel starter battery?
If this is ok, then I don't need to have a separate trickle charger for the gel starter battery right?
Hello people, I’ve got a situation and I’d like to have your advice. My AGM-battery is charged via solar (MPPT) and, when the engine is running, via an alternator (via an Argofet which also charges 2 other batteries). I suspect the battery is not charged enough by the alternator because the Argofet detects a voltage of let’s say 13,5 Volt (caused by the MPPT). So the alternator charges the other batteries which have lower voltages I assume? Is this correct? Of course I want to have this (main)battery is full as possible and this is not happening if this is the case. Because the current from the MPPT can be very low with a minimum of sun
Am I right? Is there a solution?
I have 4 batteries connected for 24v 400ah bank, I need to know which voltage to use for a 50% discharge and 30% discharge, also which optimal float and charging voltage. If someone knows which charging parameters to use on that inverter, it will be appreciated.