I have a beautiful 1976 sailboat where I will be installing my Orion-Tr Smart Isolated DC to DC charger to charge my LiFePo4 batteries off of the start battery. I have been told that this 30amp charger will over work my 30amp non smart alternator. Somebody please help!
Someone has an "old" Victron Phoenix Multi 24-3000-70. His batteries died. He likes to buy the AGM super cycle batteries because of my good experience with it.
The charger settings in the multi need to be done by button presets and leds.
The charge settings i can make closest to the agm charge settings by my understanding are highlighted in yellow. Correct me if i am wrong. See pic below.
Can this settings be used?
Adaptive charging and battery safe is selected.
Thanks in advance!
I hear time and time again the varying views on going modular v all-in-one solution. The arguments on both sides have merit so I’m not ruling either out. However I would like your opinion on why buying a seperate charger and inverter is not as good a solution as buying the integrated unit like a Quattro or Multiplus. Let me know your views as I’m going to pull the trigger on a new inverter/charger solution and remove an old Mastervolt 15 year old unit.
Hello my Multiplus 12/1600/70 relay tripping on AC in can internal fuse be repaired or replaced? I've taken front cover off works in inverter mode green LED stays on. When AC shore power is connected the relay start clicking by the thermal fuse stays in. If switched to down position 'charger only' relay keeps clicking orange LED comes on briefly then goes out the fan did kick in before but not now only when in inverter mode with a 600w+ load on.
Is my charger broken a and can it be repaired?UK technical number?
I am installing two new Quatro 24/5000 Inverter/chargers. I would prefer to configure both inverters to run "stand-alone" for redundancy's sake. However, I would like the chargers to work together (i.e. not "compete" and one of the chargers to do 90% of the work). Is that possible? Or do the units need to be in master/slave configuration for the chargers to effectively work together? The two units will be connected via VE bus to a single Color Control GX. I can configure them in a split phase 120V/240V configuration, but would prefer not to so that if one inverter fails, the second one will continue to operate normally. I have physical switching to deal with one inverter failing. (These are installed in a motor yacht).
I have had installed recently in my boat a new Centaur 12/100/3 Charger. I have found that the cooling fan never shuts down, despite the charger not charging or charging at a very low level below what might be indicated on the meter. Is this normal operation? Will I have to worry about a fan failure at some point just when it is truly needed to cool the unit? Temperatures in the engine room are still cool to very cool this time of year. Ventilation is good. My former Charles 12/80/3 Charger did not have a continuously running fan. The Lifeline AGM batteries are in three banks of 600AH; 215AH; and 100AH.
Hi in my MAN TGE Van I would like to use the Orion TR Smart to charge my new Lifepo4 battery through the alternator/leisure battery. So far this is a common setup. What I'm missing is a solution for shore charging. Is ist ok to connect the shore charger to the starter battery and then the load the Lifepo4 battery through the Orion TR Smart?
What is the base temperature for the Centaur 12/60 ie zero temperature compensation added? Is it 20C or 25C?
Hi there. Can I use a AWG 11 (4 mm2) wire to connect the IP22 12V/30A to three 74 Ah/680A wet batteries, at a maximum distance of 2,5m? Also, shall I install fuses between the charger and the batteries? If yes, how many Ampere? Thank you in advance for the hints. Max.
I have an Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-18 Isolated charger installed in my travel trailer, but it only charges my battery @ 5-6 amps, and the app actually shows 'charge is disabled', would appreciate it if someone could help figure out what's wrong, some additional information:
- Charger is connected through my SUV's 7pin cable, the 12v charging wire in 7pin cable has a 20A fuse in SUV's fusebox.
- Although it's isolated charger, I had to connect both input ground and output ground wire to my trailer's ground busbar, as I need a common ground for other wires (brake, turn signals) in the 7pin cable.
- I also wired the running light wire of 7pin to charger's switch pin, and verified when I turn off the running light from SUV, not charging was happening and when I turn it on, charge resumes at 5amp.
- I was charging 200ah 40% SOC LiFePo4 batteries, which should be able to take way more amps than 5amp.
- SUV's alternator is rated 180A.
- The app actually displayed 'charge is disabled'
Anything wrong? I also noticed when I changes the settings from config, it actually trip the fuse twice, indicates somehow there was > 20a current flow through fuse/wire,
My system is on a boat with a MultiPlus Compact 12v/1600va/70a and a digital multi control panel.
I have 4x175w Victron PV panels connected to a Victron 100/50 MPPT controller.
My understanding is that both the multiplus and the mppt are both charging the battery bank simultaneously whilst connected to shore power. Can I turn off battery charging on the multiplus so that batteries are charged only using the solar power via the mppt?
I need AC shore power whilst in the marina so can’t turn the multiplus off completely.
Can I get 12 volts via my multiplus compact when my battery is switched off but am still connected to shore power. This is so I can use the 12 volts on my RV without having to have the heating on to keep the battery warm, TIA
j’utilise mon auto deux fois par semaine pour de courtes distances et donc ma batterie est toujours basse.. aussi, j’aime m’arrêter et écouter la radio sans faire de pollution mais j’ai toujours à l’oeil le voltage (et donc, je relaxe pas longtemps)..
j’ai un panneau de 100 watts 18 volts que je pourrais mettre le toit.. ou bien 2 panneaux de 50 watts 18 volts..
je n’ai pas l’intention de faire compliqué ou dispendieux.. mon idée est d’ajouter un contrôleur, le brancher dans la prise cigare (puisque le courant sera 7 amp maximum, ce circuit a déjà une fusible de 15 amp et est toujours connecté).. je vous entend déjà penser que le circuit est long jusqu’à la batterie mais l’idée est de faire simple pour le moment (les petites pertes sont compensées par le panneau plus gros).. aussi (toujours pour simple), je ne veux pas devoir déconnecter le panneau solaire chaque fois que je prend l’auto (surtout que je pourrais l’oublier)..
aspect technique.. un MPPT 75-15 Victron a un voltage disconnect de 16v.. le voltage de la batterie ne dépasse jamais 14.8v (sur la route même en roulant longtemps).. par grand froid d’hiver (-20c) il m’arrive de brancher un chargeur sur ma batterie, démarrer, et laisser le tout le temps que l’habitacle réchauffe sans qu’il y ait aucun conflit ou problème..
alors est-ce un projet envisageable d’avoir une batterie en pleine forme avec un panneau solaire 100 watts et contrôleur 75-15 (le plus petit) sans aucun problème ou dépense supplémentaire??
au plaisir d’échanger avec vous,
I have a 3.3 Kw system with Multiplus 3000/48, MPPT 150 and 8 Trojan SPRE255 batteries.
I hope this question hasn't been asked before. I am looking for a list of suitable generators to hook up to my system for cloudy days. My current generator (low quality, 1,5KW) does not charge the batteries, something is tripped and they don't charge.
Since there are countless generators out there and no reliable resource as to what I can couple with my Multi 3000, I am hoping to get some hints from you.
I have been eyeing the following generator, maybe someone has experience with this model?
Thank you in advance, I appreciate hearing about hints or positive experiences with generators.
Under the user defined charge parameters, the Absorbtion time ‘wheel’ shows hours and minutes, however you cannot configure ‘10mins’ or ‘1hr 10mins’. You can only configure 1hr 2hr 3hr etc.
I have a need to configure minutes.
Also you can only configure a charge rate of 4Ah or 15Ah. I have a need to charge at 6Ah and 10Ah, is this possible with a software update ?
Thank you for your time
I have a 75/10 bluesolar MPPT regulator (not smart one). I want to choose the correct batterie for a little system.
For what I study, the different stages of charge (bulk, absorption and float) has different voltaje point according to de batteries. So it's not the same for the technologies flooded, AGM or gel.
Thus, which is the perfect match for this batterieLife algorithm?
Besides, in case of using a flooded batterie, is it possible to get the equalitation done with this system?
Thanks in advance
Hi there. Just got a BMV 712 fitted to our small Fiat Ducato camper van. Have got tge app on phone. Driving ot out for first time and SOC reads %100. We know the new battery losy charge as straight after having it fottes tge van ended up in a garage dor 2 months so was beeping when we picked it up. We charged for few hours on house socket but didnt re sync, should we have? If so do we charge it at home again tgen sync and if so how long does it take to charge?
Also how do yoy know how much charfe is in the battery? Is that SOC or something else and how low should it be allowed to go before driving to re charge. Sorry about all the questions. I wasnt there when fitted and hubby not tech savvy so im trying to work it all out :-)
I am new to all this and busy trying to design a simple electric diagram for my camper-van conversion.
I will only be using a 100Ah leisure battery and I was wondering if the DC-DC smart charger 12 / 12 18A would be enough.
I am assuming charging with the 18A would take twice as much time than with the 30A. Correct?
What would be a rough estimation of how much I could charge with say an hour of driving?
Many thanks for your support.
I have a 24V 5000 Multiplus thats used 99% of the time with solar only DC input via an MPPT. However last few days have had very little sunlight so i turned on AC mains power to try and charge the batteries. I measured the DC current going to the batteries at about 80amps while the charger was charging, than after 60 seconds the unit trips giving me two solid red light for low battery and overload. Then the unit cycles again with the same sequence. This happens with AC loads disconnected and in both ON and Charger Only modes. The charger used to work a month ago, and its about 10 months old from new.
I have a Victron Skylla TG 24/50 charger.
As per today I have 4 180ah 12 volts batteries where two and two is in paralell to 24 volt. I need to replace the batteries. What is the maximum configuration that will work with my charger?
I updated my Phoenix smart ip43 charger with software version V3.31. In my installation I use the remote control to activate and deactivate the unit. This is achieved with a switch that connects H and L of the remote port.
If the switch is open and I connect power to the unit, the unit ist deactivated. Once I close the switch, the unit will be powered on. When I open the switch later, the unit stays powered on. There is no way to power down the unit (stop charging), except to disconnect the main power.
I observed this bug in this firmware version. The unit worked as expected before the update. Is this bug known to Victron?
Can I configure my Phoenix 12/50 charger to limit the AC current to use with small generator (Honda EU10). If so how to configure this. Is it VE.Bus compatible?
I have tried reducing the bulk current (using the internal buttons) but this doesn't help.
I am using my Phoenix 12/50 to charge my 1200 AHr LiFePO4 battery bank from a 115 Volt generator. I would like to set the charge parameters per the factory default Sonnenschein Dryfit with a 14.4V Absorption voltage and 13.8V Float. To do so I'd like to perform a factory reset but the instructions in the manual are not clear.
Return to factory defaults
• Switch the charger on.
• Keep the pushbutton ⇑ and/ or ⇓ pushed while
• The factory defaults are restored.
• Replace the frontplate.
Questions I have are:
1. The instruction describing the reset and implying the charger is disconnected from the batteries. Is this necessary? Or can I do a reset with the input voltage at 115, and batteries still connected? Instructions say replace frontplate, with no mention of reconnecting any cables.
2. After doing the reset, is there any indications that it is occurring or complete. The LEDs flash a sequence but the manual does don describe what it should be.
3. While charging I am only measuring 40 Amps output, with batteries at 13.6V - as noted by my Victron SmartSolar charger. Why is it being limited to 40 Amps, why not the full 50 Amps?
Hello from Savanah Ga.....
I have randomly seen this charger go up to 15 Volts and slowly drop back down ....not sure why...and I of course receive "High Voltage Alarms" (set at 14.6)
I understand that AGM batteries are sensitive to being over charged so I was reading up on this...and the 15 volts was concerning....
Thanks for any suggestions....I installed this 2 weeks ago and am still learning..
I attached schematics for refence.
Hi, I'm building a largish battery for a Torqeedo Cruise 10 motor and have been told to keep voltage under 59V at all times or risk damage to the drive.
I have seen my multiplus 48/3000/35 surge past 65V when the battery BMS decides to terminate charge. This is a slow surge, looks like a slow loop response to a step change in load, and not flyback. I'm told that the MPPT chargers have a similar problem with over-shoot at termination and can damage the motor drives.
Has anyone had a compatibility and damage issue with Torqeedo products before? Are there Charger and MPPT products known to be compatible with Torqeedo 48V gear? Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks, Brent, GC, QLD, Australia.
I have a 10 year old Centaur 12/30 charger installed on my narrowboat. I want to install a new 12/50 to run in parallel with it (to decrease charge time). Want to know a) If parallel operation is ok? b) would the charge characteristics be the same between old and new models - with different ratings?
Ik heb in mijn boot Tractie batterijen 12V= ± 1400 Ah en 24V= ± 600Ah. Met Victron nieuw Multiplus 3000 voor de 12 V= van dit jaar, en één lader voor 24V = lader, van 2008. Tijdens de winterstalling had ik er altijd een klok voor zitten die elke maand 24 uur de stroom inschakelde. Nu is de nieuwe die dat automatisch doet zou moeten doen, om de batterijen op peil te houden, maar de oude 24V= lader staat dan continu aan de stroom. Wel is de hoofdschakelaar voor 12V= en 24V= uitgezet. de accu's ontladen dus praktisch niet . Wel heb ik in eerste instantie de 230V er op laten staan, alleen laden. weet niet of dit verstandig is voor de oude 24V= lader of dat ik gewoon moet regelen dat er 24 uur per maand stroom op komt te staan, zal dan hand matig door de eigenaar moeten worden gedaan!!! Zal en kan hem herinneren. Graag hoor ik van iemand die hier ervaring mee heeft wat verstandig is en de beste oplossing. Bij voor baat dank voor reacties.
Met vriendelijke groet Simon
Hi, I’ve just had an Orion-Tr Smart charger fitted, and now my van is struggling to start. I’ve noticed that it is going it to bulk charge when the ignition is turned on, but the engine is not running. Is this normal?
I've got a Phoenix Smart IP43 Charger that I'm incorporating into a LiFePO4 24V system in a motorhome. The Phoenix will not be turned on permanently (only when shore power or generator is required). There is also solar charging (this is the primary charging source) occurring on the charging bus via an Electrodacus DSSR20. Both the Phoenix and the DSSR20 are remote controlled by the Electrodacus SBMS0 for overcharge situations.
I'm still doing the planning side of things and have been reading http://nordkyndesign.com/.
I have been following the outline for the dual DC bus system and was just reading through the section outlining a high-voltage event causing a charge bus disconnection.
In the article he says when some charging devices are disconnected under load there is potential for generating a voltage spike and subsequently damaging/destroying them.
The examples he gives are of ;PWM & MPPT charge controllers, wind generators, and alternators.
I was wondering if such a charge bus disconnection, say via a fuse break or a manual switch, would have an impact (like the device destroying voltage spike mentioned) on the Phoenix if it were activated at the time.
Also, would the outcome for the Phoenix differ depending if the DSSR20s (and solar modules) were connected at the time or not?
I read that the smart chargers can sustain a load connected in parallel to the battery.
The idea is a system with a DC output of 24v/15A that is connected to mains most of the time but that would switch immediately to battery upon disconnection from mains. The battery would be around 100ah @ 24v.
Is this a correct approach?
What sort of extra safety measures would I require?