My system is ~3 months old and has been working well through our NZ summer, but, on cloudy days the battery voltage drops into the <50% SoC range. With winter coming up, I am trying to prioritise between adding battery capacity or adding panels. My sense is that it's 'now or never' for battery because I hear that new batteries adopt the 'age' of existing batteries.
My question is, what information produced by the system should lead me to decide on more batteries or more panels? Hoping someone can help...
My off grid system comprises:
Our power draw averages around 250 W 24x7 plus 30 W for the EasySolar II GX itself. VRM says over last 30 days, consumption has been 171 kWh and production 192 kWh. I haven't found anywhere that VRM (or the remote console) tells me "but production would be higher by X if you had more storage".
Hope someone with more experience can help.
What can cause using batteries with this charger with smaller capacity than minimum adviced by manual (minimum 150Ah, we use one set - 24v 560A 70Ah and second set with second charger - 24v 815A 50Ah)? Last time the working time of this kind of batteries is about 1year, after charge starts fall down, should I adjust any of float/equalize/boost charging time? Thank You
I build 3 DYI jehugarcia (youtube) 18650 battery packs, each pack consist of 9 times 7x18650 cells with a 24v output. So, in total 63 cells. Each 18650 has an average 2400mAh.
So, in a grand total I have 3 packs of 63c = 189 cells.
Each pack has it’s own BMS and they are charged by a Victron 100/30 MPPT Solar charge controller. A BMV 702 keeps an eye on things and a Raspberry PI with VictronOS on it to log statistics to a VRM dashboard.
All well so far and after weeks of charging and discharging the cells are still very much balanced. A Victron Battery Protect as a measure to prevent to low a discharge and opens at float voltage to keep the MPPT as maximum power. Basically, this pack functions as an equalizer as the total capacity isn’t enough for off-grid purposes. (In The Netherlands we have clouds now and then with the sun disappearing).
The issue I have is to calculate the correct total Ah settings in the BMV shunt. I think each pack of 9 has a 21Ah capacity, so a total 63Ah. But the key question is, did I calculate it correctly?
Hope one of you can assist.
My lead battery (12 OPzS) is getting old (9 years). I am figuring out how to evaluate its actual capacity. The steps would be:
I will not try to evaluate the voltage: not accurate. The electrolyte density should be enough
Any other method?
I have a van that I am building out and trying to straighten some things out in my system as I design for kitchen.
I am hitting a lot of points where the inverter just won't budge though. Sometimes I'll be at a good charge say 75 - 80% of capacity and the inverter light will switch to "low battery" when I turn on the 1k watt hot water kettle. Really, at 1kW? No go. If I start the car, the kettle works. I haven't even bought the induction stove yet since I'm running into these issues.
I saw somewhere that potentially I would need at least 3 x 100ah batteries just to give enough current to the 3K W Inverter to do its thing. Is that right??
I'm hesitant to drop another $1k on a battery, although I would do it if it let me run my whole setup with the induction stove smoothly. It starts to worry me though that maybe I couldn't fill the 300ah battery bank fully with only 400W of solar. I've heard good rule of thumb is 200W solar per 100ah battery charge. I have enough room on the roof for another 50V panel..maaaybe 100W. So I'd be at 450W-500W, not the ideal 2:1 ratio. I do have an Orion that charges while I drive... so there is that. I would hardly ever be parked anywhere for days on end without moving. This is mostly a family extended trip mobile. Going for several days up to 2 months at a time remote work/travel trips. I also have a shore power hookup but don't plan on relying on that for steady refill, more of an emergency backup thing if in a pinch.
The other option would be to just swap out the 3k W inverter charger for the smaller 2k W inverter charger - if that is in fact a more appropriate current draw on 200ah batteries- not buy another battery, and just go propane setup for the kitchen stove instead of the induction stove. Thoughts? What say ye?
I want to have a common DC bus for powering a system. We already have a battery bank that has been working for a couple years and we are adding a new battery bank for expansion. Can I include an Isolated Orion DC-DC at each battery bank prior to the Bus to couple all the loads in one bus?
So I have a small travel trailer with limited space for a battery. Have a Victron Solar controller and SmartShunt but looking for a better capacity battery than the cheap one that it came with. Draw is a handful of LED lights, USB ports etc - no need for large current draw but capacity and lifespan are king
The current battery box is 280x175x244mm so want to look for something that sits inside the same footprint
I am looking at the BAT412110081 AGM Super Cycle or the BAT412600104 Deep Cycle Gel as the two that will fit.
Which would people recommend as the better choice and which has the larger capacity?
Thanks in advance for the help!
Hi, this may be obvious, but I've got to ask...
I have a 12v battery bank consisting of 4x 6V, 200AH, AGM batteries.
I have 2x2 connected in series to form 12v, then these blocks of two are connected in parallel - giving a 12v system.
My question is: What is the total AH size of my battery bank. Is it simply the combined total of all batteries? ie 4x200AH=800AH
Or is it the size of only those in parallel? ie 2x200AH-400AH?
what settings do i need to use to get these results? I am lucky if i get 10Ah charged in a day
I'm struggling to understand batteries, I have a small solar installation SmartSolar 100/30, SmartShunt and Smart battery protector in exhibition trailer which is currently being used as test rig, I was using two Flooded leisure batteries in parallel 220AH effective. I Run a 3.9A (Lights and network switch) I calculate that at 3.9A (4A.) 220AH/4 which I estimate should run for 55hrs, runs for about 2hrs before the BatteryProtect kicks in.
I have purchased AGM battery for testing cos I'm looking at replacing my 2 x 110AH flooded leisure batteries with VE 110AH AGM batteries in a slightly more complex installation in the camper and wanted to do some comparisons.
I am thinking the flooded batteries are no longer serviceable although the indicator display is green on both.
The 110AH AGM battery I would estimate 110AH/4 = 27hrs running time and not even coming close to that. What sort of running time would you normally expect with such load?
What is the maximum discharge point for AGM batteries? 80% AGM and 50% for flooded, but other websites saying 50% for AGM and 80% for flooded, which is correct?
What setting for battery protect would you recommend?
Thanyou in advance
I have bought a lifepo4 12.8V 40Ah battery from an unknown but experienced manufacturer for a small project, that was not too expensive to wake the kraken and dragon of my spouse.
It came at 13,33V and looked very tame.
I charged it with a blue smart ip65 12/15 charger on lithium configuration and low current (4A) instead of 15A to wake it up softly.
The manufacturer prescribes a CCCV load profile with cut off voltages of 14,6v high to 10V low. But Victron thinks that 10V is too low. They told me to cut off at 12,5V. And load with 14,2V.
I think Victron uses a more conservative load profile. Maybe to protect the battery from unballanced cells in these high limits? Is that right? Or does that have another reason? Lifepo4 is lifepo4 right?
The first charging got to 14,2V for a little while, but then very quickly started ballancing at 13.5V. Is that normal?
So now the battery is 13,5V... Which is good I guess for storing the battery? When I look at a voltage chart of 12V Lifepo4, that is about 90%SOC? I have enough capacity to do what I want, so that's ok.
But I need to calibrate an Aili battery monitor (I know it might be rubbish but I want a little experiment). So when the battery is 100%, I have to tell the monitor by pushing a button that it's 100%SOC. But how do I know whether the battery is completely charged at 100%? On the voltage charts of lifepo4 I see that 13,5V is not 100%, but the smart charger brings the voltage automatically to 13.5V, and I don't want to start messing with the configurated values...
I also have a smart battery sense, a smart battery protect on load side, a battery protect on charge side, and an mppt 75/15 for a solar module when I install everything. Some are new, some were of a previous AGM project (that's why the chargers are 15A, instead of 10A which would be preferable for a 40Ah battery). But without a shunt, these victron appliances can't determine the SOC, so they can't help me either, although they all blink very willingly.
Any suggestions to educate me on this and protect my precious investment from my erratic ignorance, and help me to set this battery monitor please?
Would it calibrate itself when the battery reaches full capacity again? Even when the voltage drops again to 13,5 V?
Usually battery manufactures can provide a chart showing a battery's resting voltage to state of charge. I'm looking for that information for a Victron Lead Carbon 160Ah battery. I've looked at the Datasheet but it doesn't have that information.
ich habe 4 Smart Batterien in Reihe über eine BMS angeschlossen. Diese sind mit dem Quattro und dem Can VU GX verbunden. Auf dem Display kann ich alle Daten sehen aus die Ladung der Batterien, was muss ich einstellen um dies zu sehen?
I have a BSC IP65 24/8 charger for my 24V 75Ah mobility scooter (my original scooter charger is a 24v 5A charger). Problem I see is once it reaches the high end of it's charge cycle the Ah of the batteries are about a 3rd of what I need to get full milage from the batteries.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix this or what I should realistically expect?
I have installed a BMV712 and believe everything is wired correctly, we have a voltage reading and the current also registers values but when we tap the history tab there is next to nothing showing.
The shunt is wired with a single 95mm2 link cable to the negative of a 3x110ah battery bank. That is the only wire that side. The right of the shunt then links into the boat (its on a narrowboat) and has about 3 or 4 load wires coming off it. The battery bank has nothing but link cables going between the negative poles and the positive only has link cables except the most positive battery with the loads again.
Overnight our battery went too low, we inherited the system a few weeks ago when we purchased the boat so I'm not sure if we have a duff battery bank. I'm confused how current it flowing via the shunt yet there appears to be little to no history.
When installing the shunt we ensured all loads got switched off and clicked the calibrate button. Running some loads last night showed a negative current and running the generator this morning activating the built in charger showed a positive current.
The 12v wiring consists of a split charge relay from the starter, solar input and a Freedom 20 inverter and 12v circuits.
When we purchased the boat the previous owner had the first battery feeding the positive and negative loads and some other loads on the middle and end battery. We rewired the bank so all negatives were fed from most negative battery and positives from most positive. I'm not sure if they've damaged the batteries in the way they had it wired up.
Good evening, this is the story of my Agm battery for cyclic use.
We have been living in a camper for almost 3 years.
The battery is almost exhausted.
I mean, with loads of 2/4 amps it is still good.
But with a load of 15 amperes (C 0.15), it only returns 25/30 ah.
I took a test with the recently purchased victronenergy smartshunt.
Is this normal after just 2 years and 8 months of continuous daily use?
The battery has about 1000 light cycles.
It discharges daily at approximately 12.5 / 12.6v.
He only suffered 3 or 4 deep discharges.
It is always charged at 100% every day, from a 300watt panel with a 30 amper mppt regulator.
The charge is set as follows:
- maximum current phase
- absorption phase of 90 or 120 minutes at 14.5v
- floating phase at 13.7 / 13.8v.
- temperature compensation at -3mV / C / 2V (about -18mV / C)
The working temperature has always been between 15 and 30 degrees. So very good.
The charging parameters are correct right?
On the battery it is written to charge at 14.7 / 14.9v in cyclic use and 13.8v in buffer use.
But my cyclic use is very light, almost a buffer use.
So I decided that 14.9v is too much.
Also I have seen that charging at 14.5v, the tail current is reached at the same time as at 14.9v.
In few words, monitoring the absorbed amps, I noticed that 14.5v equals 14.9v.
So I preferred 14.5v because it generates less gas.
The battery is designed for 1000/1200 discharge cycles (70%).
It actually has less than 1000 cycles at 80% now.
I am going to be installing an Onan QD5000 into my race truck motorhome but also want to run off batteries whenever possible ie. overnight and whilst on the road travelling (the generator will be great for big loads i.e tools etc when needed but obviously cant be running all the time and while travelling) we will be running 230v appliances (Fridge, TV, led lighting, microwave, combi boiler, charging phones / laptop).
I am looking for recommendations for batteries to look at and how long would i should expect these to last? agm vs lithium - id rather use agm due to costs. (im not sure what my average consumption will be as i haven't finished building the truck yet) and also what sort of recharge time would i get out of the generator to the batteries.
Adding to the above, what inverter would be best suited? and also are there any other related products i will need / will be of value to have.
thanks in advance.
What is the basis for the recommended battery bank capacity for Multiplus Compact?
The manual for the Multiplus Compact 12/2000/80-50 recommends a battery capacity of 350-1000 amp-hours. I have two 100 amp-hour lithium ion batteries, with a maximum continuous discharge of 100 amps each. That does not meet the 350 AH minimum recommendation, but my total storage capacity should be enough for my limited A/C power demands. (Running a microwave oven for a few minutes each day, and making a slice of toast).
I do not want to buy an inverter/charger and go to all of the effort to install it and find that it really does not do what I need.
Hello, Group. I'm using a BMV-712 with a Relion 100AHr LiFePO4 battery that I purchased a couple of months ago. Both are in an emergency power battery box I built as a pandemic project. I mostly power computers, phones, and other electronics from it. I also recently acquired a Blue Smart IP67 12/25 charger to charge at 25A, and previously used a West Mountain Radio Epic PWRgate to charge at 10A.
The BMV-712 is configured per recommended LiFePO4 settings: 100Ah, Peukert exponent 1.05, charge efficiency 99%, charged voltage 14.2. What I'm confused by is the following:
Last discharge I hit 11% SOC, and voltage was 11.24 with 4.75A draw. Consumed Ah was reported as 94.5A, however. 5.5A remaining is certainly not 11% of 100Ah. From the low voltage, I'm inclined to believe that 5.5Ah was left, so why is the SOC saying 11%, and how can I align that with actual capacity?
Also, on recharge, SOC reached 100% some time (maybe 20 mins) before the charger output dropped down below tail current. The Blue Smart charger was still charging like gangbusters at 24.37A when SOC hit 100%, with voltage only at 13.92. I think there was around a 3A draw at the time. How can I set this up so SOC is more accurate?
Hello battery experts;
I have two Victron AGM 130ah (@C20) batteries. The question is simple: What "voltage number" do I read after spending 50% capacity, assuming under normal conditions and C20 rate. I haven't been able to find a chart for Victron AGM batteries.
I ordered a Victron SmartShunt 500A/50mV as BMS in a TinyHouse.
I have a Smart MPPT 100/20 and a Victron Inverter Phoenix 24/800 VE. Direct, both are connected to a Raspberry Pi 2 Venus with a VE.Direct to USB interface for logging to VRM online portal and onsite lcd screen for insights.
The SmartShunt will be connected with a VE.Drect cable and VE.Smart Networking.
The idea is to use a VE.Direct to USB interface from the SmartShunt to the RPi, so that with the setting: "has DC system" the total DC load is measured and also know the SoC of the battery.
Then also use it with a Smart Network to the Smart MPPT.
Like in: https://www.victronenergy.com/live/victronconnect:ve-smart-networking
In the manual: "A VE.Smart network containing a SmartSolar with temperature sensor and a MPPT solar charger, the solar charger receives the battery voltage and temperature information from the SmartShunt and uses this information to optimise its charge parameters. This will improve charging-efficiency and prolong battery life."
I want in the future use a Victron Energy Smart Battery Sense (mainly for temperature compensation) so that the aux input port on the SmartShunt can be used for midpoint voltage.
Can the Smart Battery Sense use the VE Smart Networking and the MPPT and the SmartShunt too also to use this temperature setting?
I want also make a VE.Direct cable connection to Venus and also monitor the midpoint voltage of the battery bank (cable included); 2x 12v in series. Is it possible to use VE.Direct cable and VE.Smart Networking at the same time?
How important is the temperature sensor? The batteries are below the roof, so in the summer there are possible high temps (> 35 celsius) and in the winter low temps (-5 < 0 celsius).
Other questions about settings of the SmartShunt:
Sorry for the long posting, but I hope this makes the use of the SmartShunt more clearly for all the Victron Energy users around the world.
I am considering a Quatro 24/5000 and have a 200 AH battle born battery bank. In the manual it says 400AH is the minimum. Would I need a soft start for this and are there any other problems that could occur from using a smaller battery bank?
I installed SONNENSCHEIN A602 SOLAR 8 OPZV 1130 with QUATTRO 48/15000/200-100/100.
According to its manual, battery capacity C10 = 908Ah and C100 = 1096Ah. Accoring to label on the battery, its C120 capacity is 1131Ah.
What number is supposed to be input to VE configure program? C10, 20, 100 or 120?
System MPPT 250/60 with 6x 330W solar panels and 2x4x12V batteries = 48V.
Everything works fine except BMV monitor battery charge reading that starts with 100% after reset but then keeps on dropping to 0% notwithstanding full charge daily usually to float state. All other readings, e.g. incoming solar current, voltage and power seem to be accurate. All settings checked and verified electronically + internet by certified installer and also by an independent certified electrician.
During rain or clouds with partial charging the battery status is my guess only. When then charging overnight from external Lister generator the battery level is accurately updated all the way to float and 100%, so the monitor does work for external charging.
What must be changed so that the monitor updates the battery charge from incoming solar power and can tell how much capacity is still available?
I installed 4 x 145ah Super Cycle AGM's 18 months ago (Still under Warranty). They were marvelous giving us days service before needing charge. Usual discharge to 12 volts.
This week suddenly we have extremely low capacity and using our normal charge methods (Sterling shorepower 40A charger set to AGM) or the boat engine alternator. Absorption charging at 14.6V and 14.4V respectively. The shorepower drops to 13.6V for float.
I only seem to be able to get 50ah storage into batteries (using NASA Marine Clipper BM2 battery monitor) and then the charge current is down to 1 or 2 Amps within 4 hours or so.
Why would this have happened to four new batteries and so suddenly?
Help very much appreciated.
I’m trying to set the battery bank size through the app for my BMV 712, but it won’t accept values greater than 999Ah. Any values above 999Ah reverts back to just 1Ah when tapping accept. Is this a bug or limitation of the app?
For background, I have 12x Lion UT 1300 batteries, each have 105Ah of capacity for a total of 1260Ah. They are wired 4s3p for an operating voltage of 48v.
Any help is greatly appreciated, thank you!
Hi, I've attached a screenshot of my VRM dashboard for the past 30 days for my remote cabin off grid system. I've had to reset 100% SOC a few times once my LionEnergy battery bank (2 - 12V in series 105ah) batteries are showing 28V (for some reason the BMV never seems to show them as 100% charged...i have to rest them when they get to 100% 28V). Those resets are indicated by the peaks in battery SOC at 100% in image. I only leave on a refrigerator in the cabin when I'm not there and have it on a timer to turn off between 10PM-1AM and 2AM to 5AM. Does this graph indicate that the 3.16kW energy harvested per day isn't enough to keep up with the draw/load? I have a 1.46kW array (using victron MPPT and inverter/charger).
i would like to thank everyone who spent time answering my stupid questions and helping me out to fix my solar problems. i changed my solar panel setup from 12v to 24v, got a new battery and now i harvest about 850 wh per day.that's a huge improvement that allowed me to power a fridge among other things (a word of advice for off-gridders, buy a dual function chest fridge, huuge difference form ordinary ones) .
a question about batteries: since a battery is considered to be charged when >12.8 or so, what if the battery is charged at 13v or more? how charged is considered? my battery is at 12,64v every morning, what state of charge is that considered to be? (gel vrla battery)
Multiplus 2 5000
Byd b box pro 13.8
Im searching for the settings for depth of discharge setting. I can only find it at ESS but its not allowed to activate it running an offgrid version
I would like to shut down the system at 15% and reactivate the inverter at 18%.
Thanks it andance
Could someone be so kind as to tell me the maximum battery capacity that both the 48v 3kw and 5kw multiplus inverter charger can handle? (Intend I’m using Pylontech 48v us2000).