My Orion Tr Smart 12/12-30 Charger runs hot, and the output current folds back considerably. Anyone else with this problem? When cold, it will output 33A. When hot, it will fold back to 26A or less. Parts of the case may exceed 134dg F, in a cool (60dg F) environment. By adding a 80CFM fan above the fins, the case temperature is lowered by 20 degrees F, and the unit will continuosly output 30A. It would appear that the heat sink is undersized. Comments?
The Orion-Tr Smart 12/12 30a charger is installed in my battery system with a monitor on the load. When I start the vehicle engine with the house battery load at zero, the battery monitor shows the house battery load immediately increasing by 1.5 to 2 amps (give or take). Does this simply reflect the power needs of the Orion-Tr charger while running? I am just trying to explain this load so I understand, and it makes sense that the charger is using power to run itself. Not sure why else the monitor would register that extra couple of amps while the vehicle is running and the Orion device is in operation.
Although, one thing I do not understand is that the Smart DC/DC charger is not connected to the monitoring shunt, but rather connected to a separate post on the house battery. I thought that meant that my shunt (and monitor) would not be picking up on any power used by the Orion DC/DC device. Maybe I just don't understand how the shunt and monitor are working...
I have installed a new BMV-712 on my camper that has 2 x 12v 115AHr AGM's in parallel. I also have a separate Volt/Amp meter installed. The BMV reads current lower than what it actually is. 3-5 Amps on Charge and Discharge. 10mm cable used to connect the shunt?
I have no idea if the BMV is just not a very accurate device or how to investigate the problem
I have a 1200 watt oven that has drawed that (almost 1200 watts and approx. 45 amps) every time I have switched it on. (I bought the oven new last summer)
However, the last three times I have used the oven has used almost 3600 watts at about 125 Amps (!!).
-I get an "Overload L1" message followed by "Recovery" every time (VE.Bus).
What could be the cause of this?
I dont understand how or why this could happen (the only other appliance i a fridge that pulls about 70 watts for a few minutes every hour).
(I have an offgrid Easysolar 3kVA (24/3000 - 150/70) with 10 kW lithium ion and 1,8 kW panels.).
Alittle disturbing that my system draws almot three times more amps than I expect, so would greatly appreciate views/solutions to this.
I have a Smart Blue Power IP22 Charger 24v/16amp for my boat engine. I need to charge a 24v system consisting of two AMG 12 batteries (vestus marine batteries). The batteries were delivered with a voltage of each 14.2 volt and the system showed me (using a multi-meter) 28.x volt. It is my second pair of batteries having just lost the first once (chronically discharged).
Now, as I have used the new battery a bit, it shows me 24.6 volt, meassured with the multi-meter. When I connect the Smart Blue Power IP22 charger and look into the App, it says 28.x volt, but 0.0 amp., So, I'm afraid I have connected the chrarger wrongly or that it is broken (?).
Unfortunatly, the guideance in the manual is not sufficient for me as it only shows the side of the charger, not the batteries. As I was unsure whether I have connected the system in the right way, I changed the connectons, but the system still showed the same values. I would have expected that it would show me an error if I connect them in the wrong way (?).
Through this questions may not be difficult for most of you, I'd be glad to understand whether we should already see amps flowing, or should this only happen when the batteries has reached a discharge below 24v? Can I find better information on how to connect the system and is the above written (connection in different order does not change anything) an indication that the system is defect?
Thank you very much!
Wonder if anybody can help me. I have mppt 100/50 and a bmv-712. I can see the total day solar production. But my bmv is showing the total ah use minus solar production. What I’m trying to figure out is how much power out of my batteries I’m using a day. It’s not as easy as just subtracting solar production minus ah of the bmv because it resets everyday (or it’s just cumulative day by day). I installed the Venus gx thinking it would show a graph for each day ah used and solar production per day but no. I can’t look at the bmv everyday in an attempt to figure out how much power I’ve used. I have an aims inverter so a 1500 dollar victron inverter is out of the question. Hope this makes sense. Thank you
There is a 5 ton heat pump that requires 240VAC with a 150A circuit breaker. If we can get to 200A service panel, then we can add a 40A breaker for the water heater. I'm not sure of piggy backing the outputs of the inverters to the main input lugs of the main panel.
If I connected my 100W solar blanket up to this controller, set the profile for Lithium battery, would the output of the MPPT supply only up to max of battery Max Charge Current? i,e, will 15A be supplied to the battery even if it can only accept max 5A? will I ruin the battery? specs of battery are below.
SolarKing Lithium batteries are fully sealed with a built in battery management system (BMS) to make sure the battery operates safely.
Is there a difference in quality between various makers of ANL fuses? I see single 150A fuse prices ranging from $5 to $25. Does brand matter or are they all the same? (Other than some being ignition protected, some not.)
Also, the Multiplus manual recommends 2x pos and neg cable connection. Should each positive cable be fused for 50% of total current expected?
I hope you can help me with this.
I am upgrading the electric system on a Rapido 9083DF from 2007 which I bought second hand in 2019.
The system is factory-wise equipped with a CBL DS520-distribution block. When I bought the vehicle, two parallel 110Ah sealed lead-acid batteries had already been installed, which I have not changed yet.
I first of all upgraded the system to a total of 480Wp solar panels connected in series with a Victron MPPT 100/50.
I now have also equipped the vehicule with a Victron Orion to recharge the batteries while driving if weath is bad and also the new SmartShunt 500A/50mV to monitor battery activity. The plan is to replace the existing battery bank with 200Ah of Lithium, when the existing batteries are dead.
I also have a 1200W pure sinus inverter installed.
I checked and rechecked the wiring and it is correct. All negatives, including the negtive to the second batterie are connected via a distribution box after the load connector of the smart shunt.
I have callibrated the SmartShunt with the negative load cable disconnected. So far so good.
When I charge the batteries however either via the MPPT or the ORION, with all loads turned off (physically pulled the plugs on the distribution block and the other Victron charging devices turned off and the inverter unplugged) the amperage and watts dilsayed by the Shunt is approximately 50% lower than it should be (compared to what the MPPT shows as amperage being delivered to the batteries).
The MPPT delivered 20A at 9,,8Amps (according to Victron connect) , but the shunt only displayed 4,8 Amps.
The same holds true when I put a load when discharging and turning all charging devices off. The amperage and watts drawn from the batteries are approximately 50% less than what it should be.
To test, I turned the inverter on, connected a Watt-Meter to the plug and put my Laptop on in video mode. The watt meter showed a steady consumption of approximately 60 watts. Accounting for losses du to the inverter, I estimate that the draw would have been 70 watts or approximately 5,8A. The shunt displayed only approximately 3 Amps of draw.
During a discharge test, with approximately 8Ah of the Battery, the Batterievoltage dropped to 12,05 (after turning all charges off and waiting for 15 minutes), or 50% DoD after approximately 15hours of discharging, However the Shunt claculated 81% SoC (or 19%DoD).
I am at a loss to what the problem could be. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance
Victron 712... New batteries are everstart deep cycle 109 @ 1am hr rating.. Need to know the 20hr rating
I’m adding 1200 watts PV to my ORV Timber Ridge 30 amp rig. Solars and 6 Battleborn wired for 24 volts.
Running the shore power straight to the MP AC in and AC 1 out to the main power center for powering all AC devices.
Will household 10/3 electrical cable (e.g. Southwire) be adequate for both in and out, factoring in PowerAssist?
I have a 2018 Montana 5th Wheel with 50 AMP shore power and no inverter at this time. My goal is to install an inverter, 2 - 100 ah Battle Born batteries, 712 Battery monitor, and portable generator now. Future will add ground and roof Solar with additional batteries.
Can I use a Multiplus Inv/Charger 2000w on a 50 AMP service as described above?
Is there a wiring diagram out there to help me get this set up?
I assume I will only run one of the hot lines from the 50 AMP through the inverter.
New to the group. To lay the groundwork for the question:
We have been, in the past three months, mostly on shore power, and always on (confirmed) 50 amps. We found that one of the monitor panels (not listed above) showed us at 30 amps continually. Reached out to seller, he indicated that if I had the inverter on, I'd be limited to 30 amps. Turned it to Off, and I'm back to 50 amps and I can run the air conditioners. Excellent for the Texas heat we'd been dealing with.
Two days ago, we relocated to a park, and were fortunate enough to park in the shade. Sure, solar will be very much reduced, but that's okay: we have 50 amps.
Tonight...the generator kicked on. Turns out we ran down the batteries to 50%. Direct DC usage in the rig, like lights, whatever else is straight DC, ran them down. With the Victron set to off, the shore power doesn't recharge the batteries. If I turn the Victron to just "Charger" (not Inverter), it will recharge the batteries, but I will still be limited to a 30 amp system.
This feels wrong to me. I'm a programmer, have been for 30 years. I'm decent at debugging, but I haven't examined all the the wiring and gotten a deeper understanding of the layout. It just feels wrong that it's this way.
When we have good sun, the batteries always get charged up the next day, even on cloudy days. We've been here, in the shade, for... two full days, I think.
I'm trying to determine if one or more of the following are true:
I'm trying to determine that, if the Victron being on limits me to 30 amps, is there a different way to charge the batteries when on shore power? I know my question might be difficult to many without y'all knowing more about how it's wired up. But I'm hoping I kept my questions as free of the implementation as possible and focused on generalizations, and typical scenarios.
For the moment, there's a chill coming into the area tonight and I don't need two A/C's. I'm okay with the 30 amps for now, and I'll get my batteries replenished. Not a long term solution.
I truly appreciate any help anyone can put forth, or any education I can glean out of your answers. I did do extensive research into solar, DC, AC, converters/chargers, inverters, MPPT, etc. before we bought the rig. I feel sort of comfortable in my general knowledge. I was a little sad I didn't get to do the install myself so I'd REALLY know it, inside and out, but the deal was just too good to pass up and our seller was a pleasure to work with. But I lack the intimate knowledge that installing it myself would have gained.
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
- Will B.
Somewhere in Kansas at the moment.
Spent a lot of time trying to find the answer to what might be a simple question. A buying guide would help iron this out.
I have two engines, one engine goes to an isolator which charges the following
two x XV31MF (aft) for the bow thruster (Total 220ah)
three x XV31MF (stern) for entertainment and engine start.(Total 330ah)
Reading the posts a 500am might be ok? My concern is the engines which are large volvo Penta start from battery bank 2. The batteries are say 1000 cold crank amps that’s 3000 CCA the shunts go up to 2000 amps.
So I am confused what amps I look at for the shunt
CCA is a lot higher than the amps
the above two groups are in parallel
|Capacity (C20)||105 Ah|
|CCA (EN)||740 A|
I just installed a new BMW 712, it updated the firmware twice 2.XX something then to upgraded to 4.XX version so far so good. But it always shows about 19 Amps no - or + just 19 amps. So I started to look for the drain but there isn't any. I turned everything on and the amps never change. Volts do drop with the load but the amps are steady at 19 ish... So then I plugged in the charger ... guess what still says 19 amps. Being in the 5th wheel I just disconnect the - side and inserted in the shunt.
White bottom is going to the 5th wheel and Black is going to the negative side of the battery. On the battery there is nothing but the black cable.
I did connect both voltage red wires to the shunt but I haven't hooked up a second battery yet, doubt that matters
As I recall the charger was unplugged as well I never recall ever seeing a - sign for current.
I have a BMV 712 and am testing my battery bank. I have 4 6v 230ah wire in series parallel for 460ah. I used a 1000W inverter to run a hair dryer which was pushing 600 watts which if my math is correct should be 5amps. The BMV was reading 50 amp out going this seems really wrong. am i missing something or is something really wrong
habe hier ein BSC IP67 Ladegerät an einer Victron 90Ah LiPo hängen. Ladestand der Batterie ca. 50% (BMV-712) bei 13.11 Volt (Multimeter). Wie dem Screenshot zu entnehmen ist das BSC IP67 da anderer Meinung.
Habe jetzt auch mal alles von der Batterie abgeklemmt und nur das Ladegerät angeschlossen. Gleiche Situation.
Hat wer eine Idee?
I have a 6ooAh AGM batt bank on a sailing boat (3 x 200Ah)
What is the max safe current drain for said bank, especially with longevity in mind?
I have a 1,6kW 230V AC watermaker and would like to run it off the batt bank through an inverter for about 30min at a time. (and some other power tools on the odd occasion)
I do have a generator so that watermaker can be run for longer periods but for 30min (making 50L of water), it would be very convenient to not use the generator, not to mention saving petrol, fumes, and noise.
I have 640W solar and 300W wind gen which should be more than enough to deal with the discharge, I believe, on a sunny day.
So, is there a rule of thumb for a max safe discharge current for (AGM in my case) Lead Acid Batteries?
My gut feeling is that 300A for an hour on a 600Ah bank should be safe. But then my 2nd gut will freak out when it sees 200A of discharge on the BMV.. Even 100A is a hell of a lot in my mind.
I need some advice. I have a MPPT 150/85 MC4 unit. I recently set this up and I have three banks of 4 panels in series (100w / ~18V panels). The charge controller is brand new out of the box (albeit in storage a few months) only opened a few days ago. All functions seem to work on the controller itself.
I've done my due diligence with the wiring, polarity, and confirmed each bank of panels has the expected voltage. Here's the report and I can produce the settings file for anyone if that's useful. VictronConnet_report.log
It's 9am on a sunny Saturday here in Arizona. I'm seeing 73-90 volts and no current or wattage. The batteries are calling for a charge (12VDC, bank of 4 - 6 V flooded batteries wired in series parallel). I've even reset my settings to default and even reset the unit (disconnecting all input, using battery disconnect switch I installed in the battery bay).
Did I miss something? The panels work. The CC works. The batteries are new and working to produce power for the 12V system with no issues. I've scoured the manuals to see if I missed a step but I don't see anything that I missed.
Did I get a dud? If so, how do I get support from Victron?
i'm struggling to get my solar set up to charge the batterie of my battery bank.
The solar panels give the right output voltage of about 37-something volts but 0 Amps and Watts.
I've tried resetting and re-detecting the system on the EasySolar unit to no avail.
Also it gives no errors in the notifications section of the menu.
I reckon it's something relatively simple I've been omitting but I just can't get my head around it...
Any ideas and help would be appreciated.
Also let me know if you would require some more information if needed.
Here are the specifications of my set up build in on a MAN 4X4 overland camper truck.
5 x Canadian Solar CS6K-295MS panels (1475W in total).
One set of 2 panels and one set of 3 panels.
On the picture the panels are not wired up yet but you'll get the idea.
4x12v Victron Deep Cycle 220 Ah Gel Batteries in set up 24V / 440Ah configuration.
Here are the readings from the Connect app
I'm the new owner of an off-grid system (2kW PV, 10kWh 24V Atlas-ESS LFP, BlueSolar Charger MPPT 150/70 (VE.Direct), dual MultiPlus 24-120 master & slave, with Color Control), and a novice at its care and feeding. About 10 days ago, the 7500W propane backup generator began having voltage control problems, and I cannot recharge during an extended cloudy/rainy period. I bought a Predator 2000 gas generator to serve while I wait for repairs to the propane generator.
After the required 30-hour break-in period serving loads directly, I attempted to plug the Predator (1600W steady, 2000W peak) into the cabin system using the existing A/C circuit. Apparently, the 15.5A current setting is a floor that is too high for the 13.3A maximum output. [Color Control sees AC1-In L1 as 121V and 60.3 Hz, vs. AC-Out L1 s 120V/60Hz, but Active AC Input stays Disconnected.]
I am now faced with attempting to reprogram that limit to <13A. Is that really the problem, and what hazard to the system do I face in attempting to reprogram settings?
Maybe a dumb question. I have a lot to learn. I bought a BVM-712 to install in a new to me truck camper this weekend (2013 Lance 825). I will use the VictronConnect Android App to monitor. I note that the setup wizard will ask me to input the battery capacity. Unfortunately, I don't have a clue what my battery's AH rating is, and would appreciate advice on how best to proceed. The battery is a single 12 volt flooded lead acid. The label on top reads "MARINE-RV" ;"EXTREME CYCLE DUTY"; "Distributed by ABSS, Everett, WA." That, along with a yellow "8/18", is the only information provided. (I have reached out to the named distributer, but haven’t received a reply yet.)
My question is, how important is it for me to ascertain the battery’s capacity rating and input that into the app? Is it required for State of Charge and Time to Go? If I just guess, will the monitor self calibrate over time? If I should instead manually determine the capacity, any suggestions for how best to do that either using the BVM itself, or a DVM?
I have a 12V 2 batteries in parallel system with two revolution power lithium 60Ah batteries with 1m of 2B&S cable running from the positive to a circuit breaker then load. The Victron shunt probe (Supply cable) is connected to the line side of the circuit breaker (I.e. always on and before any load). All load, charger and earth are connected to the correct side of the shunt with only both batteries connected to the other side.
All load components are working normally and voltage is as expected around 13V however my Victron BMV712 is only reading 7V and says that there is an idle draw of over 700A, This is definitely false.
I've tried factory reset and linking to my phone to update firmware, the errors persist.
Any Ideas what's going on or if I've done anything wrong? is the unit just faulty?
It’s currently producing 17 volts but only 0.8amps ? Is this correct ? It does not charge my leisure battery very well
I have just installed a Victron bmv 712 unit in my boat. Setup for house and started battery banks. The display shows voltage of main and auxillary batteries, but is giving a fixed amp and watt reading, both positive and both excessive, I have worked the setup program and consulted the manual, making sure all functions are turned on. I tried the synchronize and zero calibrate functions on both the head unit and phone and they do nothing. I did this with all input power shut off, batteries fully charged. Then applied fridge & other components to see the draw...no change. ie. it is not reading current or power. I tried reversing the negative battery terminals on the shunt...no change.
I see others have had similar problems but do not clearly see the answer. Is this a defective unit? Surely not the cable. I have not taken a photo of the shunt installation but will attach soon.
712 connections at shunt are ok, the unit keep showing 0ah .
What is wrong , no reverse shunt connection
Watt from Solar-
How to know the total of watt generated before the reduction?
i understand that the SmartSolar will send only Watt-Volts-Amp when the batteries need it but i am curious to know what is the value before.. directly coming out of the panel
J’ai un problème avec le battery monitor BMV-702.
Même en l’absence de production d’energie, l’afficheur indique une consommation d’ampères alors que les appareils’ électrique en consomment.
J’ai pourtant respecté le plan de montage.
Merci d’avance pour vos réponses !