Hi, does anyone have any knowledge regarding hooking up a 200ah lithium smart battery with the 12/200 bms to the Redarc manager30? I have been told it wont work and will blow up the battery.
I don't know if anyone else has had this problem, i updated the firmware on my smart lithium batteries (mandatory updates V1.24) through the Victron Connect App, all of which were working perfectly before, now some of them even though the firmware stated completed, now come up with a E-SL24 hardware failure alarm and a E-SL2 internal communications failure, the recommendation is to reinstall the firmware to reset the controllers but you cannot do this as the App states "your product is already running the latest firmware version"...
The batteries are:-
24V 200AH smart LiFeP04
12V 90AH smart LiFeP04
Any ideas as i do not want have to replace these perfectly good batteries.
I have a pair of SmartLithium 12V/150Ah in series for a 24V battery. Both on v1.24 firmware.
One of the seems to be having a problem balancing. The other one is fine.
This is from the end of a 2hr absorption phase - you can see cell 3 is really lagging behind:
Helping a friend on his yacht commission his Lithium - and cell balancing is happening.
Set up -
The balancing is happening exactly as the manual says it will.....
"Be aware that in case of unbalance, the charger will be turned off and on by the BMS multiple times. This will manifest as follows: The charger will be on for a short period of time, then the charger will be off for a few minutes and then on again for a short time and so on. This might be repeated many times. This is nothing to be worried about. This is part of the charge process in case of unbalance and is expected behaviour. If the cells are balanced, the charger will not be turned off until the battery is fully charged."
My question is - does anyone know how long this will take ?
Only 1 battery is out of balance - and it is just 1 cell in that battery that has a high V.
Despite the BMS switching the Multiplus on and off, for nearly 2 hours, the one cell doesn't seem to be making any progress to balance with the other 3 cells in the battery.
The bank of 3 batteries keeps hitting 13.90v - and the Multiplus is switched off by BMS - and despite doing this for 2 hours - it is getting no closer to absorption 14.20v.
Can this take many many hours ?
The system is cutting out battery capacity at 70% when voltage is still reading a good 52V, so I assume it’s the BMS protecting the batteries as 1 or more cells must be unbalanced.
My questions are.
1. What voltage does the internal BMS of the battery start it’s top balancing?
2. What is the nominal balancing current of the internal battery?
3. Does the external VE.Bus BMS do any balancing between the 4 x 12V batteries in series, if so what is the top balancing voltage and balancing currents?
4. Is the only way of reading cell voltages is via a VE.Bus Smart dongle and would I have to update multiplus firmware?
Multiplus 48/5000/70-100 Firmware 407
Colour control GX V2.71
Solar Charger MPPT 150/85 v1.19
8 x Smart Lithium 60Ah connected 4S2P
Also have MK3 programmer
Hi I'm looking for some help to understand the best way to trigger the DC Input Low Shutdown on my MultiPlus 3000VA from the BMV712.
I am off grid, solar charging Lithium Smart batteries with an MPPT 100/50, and use a small inverter generator to feed the MultiPlus when solar charging is insufficient.
I would like to limit battery discharge to 15% to maximize the life of the lithium smart batteries.
I've tried tuning the DC Input Low Shutdown voltage settings in the MultiPlus but found too much variability in the actual SOC when the DC Input Low Shutdown is triggered. For example, when a relatively short duration, heavy AC load is applied to the MultiPlus, the DC voltage will drop, triggering the DC Input Low Shutdown at a SOC much higher than if a small continuous AC load is being fed by the MultiPlus.
Attempts to use the battery monitor function of the MultiPlus and the corresponding SOC functionality to trigger shutdown did not work because the MultiPlus SOC is not accounting for the MPPT charge current.
Currently I am working on a simple setup for a camper. I've added AC and DC load to the schematic.
[image]I would like to ask the experts out there to check if this setup is correct or if I still need to adjust something here.
For now I only want to use shore power to charge the battery and in the future I want to expand this with solar panels.
I do not intend to connect this setup to the alternator for the time being.
Currently I am working on a simple setup for a camper. I would like to ask you to check if this setup is correct or if I still need to adjust something here.
For now I only want to use shore power to charge the battery and in the future I want to expand this with solar panels.
I do not intend to connect this setup to the alternator for the time being.
I am starting my installation with victron products. But the installation diagrams that I find on the website are very complex. Do you have simpler schemes? Or do you have a recomendation on how to make my own to share with the community ?
I'm going to install everything in a van. With these components
Smart Solar 100 | 30
Orion tr 12 | 12 isolated 30A
Solar panel (360w)
Lifepo4 battery (280Ah)
Inverter Phoenix (12v -1200w)
Regarding the LFP battery operation:
1) Does the VE Bus BMS disconnect the charge and discharge signal if the AMBIENT temperature is 50? Or when the BATTERY CELL temperature is 50?
2) What is the specific heat capacity of the LFP battery? (J/kg.k)
3) What is the internal resistance of the LFP battery?
Does the VE.Bus BMS protect 2 LFP Smart 12,8/60 batteries connected in series when a 1200A is being drawn from them? is there an overcurrent protection?
Regarding the BMV712 Smart, for how long the historical data will be kept?
I would like to know the best settings for my 50A buck boost and LiFePO4 smart battery LFP-Smart 12,8/150.
First things I changed was within TSConfig:
20: Output voltage from 14,4V to 14,2V (recommended for LFP-Smart 12,8/150)
31: Battery voltage charge protection (10.0V (out) and 20A)
The problem is, that the voltage at my battery (connected at AB from BMS12/200) is at first try lower than 10,0V
50: Converter on/off by input voltage
I tried to reduce the Switch off delay from 1 min to zero (no load from starting battery after switch off).
But this is not working – it’s like pumping (on – off – on …).
1 minute of 50A from starting battery will not hurt – hopefully
Are there more important configurations to change in my setting with LFP-Smart and BMS?
THX for any help
I'm in the final design stage of an all-Victron LIFEPO4 upgrade for my sailboat. MultiPlus, 2 of the LFPSmart 12,8/200-a batteries, VE Bus BMS, BMV-712, battery protect, cyrix, Victron MPPT solar controller, new Balmar alternator regulator and Sterling APD...the works, very similar to the example system diagrams Victron provides. Given the amount this is going to cost, I'm keenly interested in designing the system for maximum utility AND maximum useful life. I'd like my children to inherit this LFP system :)
My typical usage pattern is to not really need the house bank most of the year, but for 4 - 6 weeks in the summer my family pretty much lives on the boat. So we see a period of intense use in the summer, but the rest of the year I would like to do what I can to keep the LIFEPO4 batteries in a "storage mode" if that will prolong their life.
My understanding is that when not in use for a while, they should be stored in a partially depleted state...60%, 70%, 80%, I've seen figures in those ranges, with the BMS and all other loads disconnected. I figured I could manage this, running my minor house loads at the dock (bilge pump, never really runs, lights and radio when I am at the boat in the winter working on projects) off the AGM starter battery, which has its own 10amp dedicated shore power charger (not the MultiPlus)
But I've also read in the Victron battery manual that they should be fully charged once per month to keep the cells balanced, which seems to defeat much of the point of having a system in place to store them in isolation at 75%-ish charge for extended periods of time.
What are your thoughts on habits and system design for maximizing LFP battery life?
Is it a false economy to try to maximize life by being fussy managing the storage charge level, disconnecting and reconnecting the BMS and then diligently charging to 100% every month? Is it better to just "set it and forget it" and keep the MultiPlus going all year long? I want to avoid trying to be too clever and cutting off my nose to spite my face, if it is not really worth it.
Part of my concern here is "what counts as a cycle" when we talk about things like 3000 or 5000 charge cycles as being the useful life of a LFP battery. I hate to think I am using up my precious finite lifetime charge cycles just bouncing up and down between 95% and 100% at the dock while getting zero utility from the system.
I have an existing system that consists of:
I'm wondering if there is any advantage to replacing the batteries with Victron Smart Lithiums, and if so which BMS would be appropriate.
I've read that the VE.Bus BMS prevents inverter control from Venus. Is the same true with the Lynx BMS?
I believe the VE.Bus BMS will shut down the Multi (charge and inverter) but I believe it will NOT shut down the MPPT. Correct? So that means I'd need a battery protect for both load and the MPPT. Correct?
Lynx BMS documentation hints that it will control both the Multi and MPPT and can disconnect the loads so no battery protects would be needed. Correct?
Most likely a beginner question but a my tesla doesn‘t like to be charged to 100% all the time. It seem that my multiplus charges the 4 lithiums to the max whilst on shore power at the dock. Would it be wise not to fully charge it? Or is there something written in the Ve.Bus BMS assistent I loaded onto the Multiplus which takes care of this?
Just charged a bank of 3 lithium 200Ah batteries (in parallel - total 600Ah) - for first time.
Set the charger to be in absorption for 2 hours - as per manual.
See pictures showing BMV and the 3 batteries - these screen shots were taken 2 minutes before end of absorption (2 hours). I was expecting to see all batteries at 14.20 - but they are all below this.
Does this look OK ?
We recently replaced our AGM house batteries with 5 Smart Lithium 12V/200AH (V 1.20) or 1000AH. Added Smart BMS CL 12/100 (V1.06), SBP 12V/220A (V2.08, Bootloader V1.02), SmartShunt 1000A/50mv (V4.05), Cerbo GX (v 2.63)and have a Multiplus Compact 12/2000/80 (V unknown).
1. While sailing and using the electric winch the system reboots. Both motors on.
2. While sailing, motors on, the system rebooted Nav system, autopilot, VHF (12V electrical)
3. Sailing w/o motors -12v electrical quit. Had to restart our engines to restart the 12V system.
4. At the dock we started the generator and we lost the 12V electrical system. The 110/220V system works fine. At this point the 12V system has not returned.
We are working with our Victron Installer and local Victron Rep for the past month as items 1-3 have recurred but the solution has not been found. Any thoughts?
Not shown is the Port side Start and Generator battery which are connected to the starboard side via a Samlex 160 Battery Separator
I have three victron 100ah lithium batteries and a multiplus 12/3000/120. I want to know what gauge battery cable should I use to link the batteries to eachother? I've read that 50mm sq for connecting to inverter but unsure what gauge is suitable for linking batteries?
I'm looking at purchasing a 200Ah Lithium Smart Battery for my system, charged via solar (MPPT 100/30) and Alternator (Orion-Tr 12/30). I've noticed that the recommended charge for the 200Ah battery is less than or equal to 100A. Whereas the 100Ah battery is less than or equal to 50Ah which is closer to what I am expecting to charge with.
At the risk of sounding like I've already answered my own question am I better off with 2 x 100Ah batteries for this reason or is it perfectly acceptable to be charging the singular 200Ah well below the recommended minimum.
I'm looking for a way to charge my 2 lithium banks with MPPT and keep them isolated a the same time.
Here is a picture of what I have so far.
The starter has a switchable circuit to keep the Argos energise circuit live and prevent the MPPT shutting down each evening and messing with the history metrics and also give the MPPT a voltage reference when charging as I don't believe it will get one from the Argos input terminal (please confirm if I'm wrong on that). I understand that this will draw around 0.05A to have the Argo and MPPT active, which will be easily replaced by the solar charge going to the starter battery.
The 2 65A BPs are configured to lithium settings and will disconnect using the BMS charge disconnect going via the BMV relay.
This will not be an approved setup, but will it work as I've gone through serveral designs and this is the only one I haven't spotted any problems with - yet.... :)
If you have a better and supported setup for doing this I would be very interested in the details :)
I'm chasing another problem with this system, that I haven't been able to pin down. I'll give you a short amount of background, in case it's relevant.
The system originally was 2 quattros in parallel, 10 Victron Lithium batteries (300ah) and 8 100/30 mppts. I share this, because I observed in the previous setup before anything was removed...nearly 60amps charging and the owner at that time stated that it would get to 100 on a bright sunny day with no clouds.
As part of buying this boat, the previous owner took one of the quattros and 5 of the batteries. I have replaced that quattro since, so now the setup is
2 quattros in parallel (5000/12/220)
5 x 300ah Victron Lithium
8 mppts connecting about 3k in solar panels.
Here's where the issue comes in. In the middle of the day, when the sun is directly overhead, and I'm generating 1600 watts of soloar (as measured by the quattro on the cerbo screen) - I will barely reach 20amps charging, usually less. My idle draw is about 15 to 20 amps, but its always been that, so observing 60, means the production at that point was 75 to 80. Right now I'd expect 133 amps raw, before any loss or conversion or vodoo that happens between components. I think it's reasonable to guess while generating 1600 watts of solar, that I should see 100 amps (mins 15 to 20 idle)....Am I incorrect?
I know that the mppts will downscale, I've appropriatly measured the battery SOC so they should bulk, measured the temp so there are no temp issues (unless there's some settings that arent correct), and I have access to all the MPPT's through the VRM for their settings if those need tracked down.
I also know how complicated all the settings can be between MPPT's, quattros, batteries...etc. So I'm looking for some help tracking it down. I can been the hammer, just need the person to wield the tool and get me there, or tell me it's working as intended.
Thanks in advance, I love this community and how everyone helps.
P.S - If there's a victron "expert" in the area of Caribbean Martinique (or you are available to fly in) I would absolutely love to talk to you.
I have just noticed that VRM is giving me a Low Battery in my VE.Bus Warnings and Alarms as per the attached.
The MultiPlus is configured as per this
The system is constructed from 4 x 12.8v / 200Ah in a 2P2S configuration. At no time did the value get below 25V.
I cant find what triggered this, any suggestion on where to look or do I have a bug?
I updated the firmware whole the batteries were arou d 16-20% charged. It then read 100% after it updated.
I have two 200AH Lithium Ion batteries connected.
I am afraid of overcharging the batteries by manually choosing an estimated SOC, but I'm also afraid of over-discharging by NOT manually changing the SOC and them not charging above their current SOC because the system thinks they are at 100.
I guessed the SOC had charged to around 30%, so I manually changed it to that. Will a wrong guess damage my batteries as the system charges and then discharges???
What should I do???
Lately we have many requests for installing big RVs with big 24V alternators (100A or more) and also more than 400Ah or more of lithium batteries.
With lithium batteries you should use a DCDC-charger but if you want to (or have to) charge the batteries from the alternator as fast as possible you have to install 2, 3 or more Orion-TR Smart or use 2 BuckBoost 100A (which is way to expensive).
So it would be great to have an easy way to limit the current like it is possible in 12V vehicles with the Smart BMS CL 12/100.
I mounted my Victron superpack 100ah lithium battery vertically in my 2016 MB Sprinter Airstream Interstate RV as the battery box and under-chassis requires. I later heard that the batteries need to be installed upright. What are the Consequences of mounting them vertically as previous batteries were mounted?
A simple question for those that know I suspect.
I'm trying to wire up a basic boat system, with a lithium house and a lead acid engine start battery. I have a Victron Orion TR Smart battery to battery charger and just want to know where the main battery isolator fits into this system. I realise both batteries must always be connected when the engine is running so that the charge has somewhere to go when the lithium battery reaches full charge. Can I continue using the traditionals 1/2/both swithch shown as per the schematic at the link below or do I need to have completely separate isolators. Can someone explain or even better draw on the schematic to complete the wiring diagram?
Many thanks for any assistance
Hi everybody. I need to charge a Li battery bank from 2 different alternators. System configuration is as follow:
Engine 1 24V 60A alternator with internal regulation connected to its start lead battery
Engine 2 24V 60A alternator with internal regulation connected to its start lead battery
House battery back is 2 x 25,6V LPF Smart 200Ah with Ve.BUS BMS.
The idea is to send two alternator positive to the busbar and put a cyrix Li-charge between them and the lithium battery bank. is there any synchro issues?
Boat owner would like to use Buckboost but I have no knowledge ho to manage with two alternators. Do you have any advise?
Can you get product serial number for a Smart Battery off the product and on Victron Connect?
We would like to get the serial number without removing cabinetry to access the batteries.
Hi, I've installed Argo FET split charger to charge my starter and 2 (separate) LFP banks. The Balmar MC614 Regulator states to place the Alternator voltage sense wire onto the largest bank if using a split charger, so in my case that would be the 400ah LFP bank.
Just a little concerned that this will potentially expose my starter to too much current and force it into a high voltage state.
I did think that using the MC614 Batt temp sensor on the starter battery might help. Other option would be to place the sense wire onto the starter battery, but then would that not prevent the LFP banks from charging?
Hope someone with a better understanding of this can help.
i'm starting my plans about a simple off-grid solar setup, built around EasySolar 48/5000 and LiFePo4 Batteries.
My goal of the setup is to have one normal european AC 230V-16A output, so that i can plug in for example a washing machine (most of them reach 3200W while heating the water), or simply all electronic products suitable for AC 230V outlets. That is why i chose the EasySolar 48/5000, that offers around the wattage necessary. Also the ability to load this with an external power source. So this is fix.
About the size of the batteries, i am not sure yet if i need double Ah, or if 100Ah is enough, but this is easy to exchange, when i know that all other components are in a correct setup.
I would really appreciate someone looking at the simple setup plan to check:
- if all the components kind of fit and work together,
- if some important parts are missing,
- if it could be simpler or less components (= cheaper, but i dont think so, its super simple already),
- what special connection cables i need, that dont come with the main products,
- is a 250A Fuse behind the batteries right? (the BatteryProtect has a Maximum Peak Current of 250A so i figured this would be fine...)
I am new to Lithium-Batteries and the VE.Bus BMS, so especially there i am not sure, if all connections are correct. Or if the VE.Bus BMS is the right BMS for me... Also i saw inverted and non-inverted remote cables. What do i need?
- do i need something like a battery balancer? it seems to me that it does not make sense with Lithium-Batteries...or am i wrong?
Im looking forward to someone leaving a statement to this setup and my questions.
Thanks in advance :)