We recently replaced our AGM house batteries with 5 Smart Lithium 12V/200AH (V 1.20) or 1000AH. Added Smart BMS CL 12/100 (V1.06), SBP 12V/220A (V2.08, Bootloader V1.02), SmartShunt 1000A/50mv (V4.05), Cerbo GX (v 2.63)and have a Multiplus Compact 12/2000/80 (V unknown).
1. While sailing and using the electric winch the system reboots. Both motors on.
2. While sailing, motors on, the system rebooted Nav system, autopilot, VHF (12V electrical)
3. Sailing w/o motors -12v electrical quit. Had to restart our engines to restart the 12V system.
4. At the dock we started the generator and we lost the 12V electrical system. The 110/220V system works fine. At this point the 12V system has not returned.
We are working with our Victron Installer and local Victron Rep for the past month as items 1-3 have recurred but the solution has not been found. Any thoughts?
Not shown is the Port side Start and Generator battery which are connected to the starboard side via a Samlex 160 Battery Separator
I have three victron 100ah lithium batteries and a multiplus 12/3000/120. I want to know what gauge battery cable should I use to link the batteries to eachother? I've read that 50mm sq for connecting to inverter but unsure what gauge is suitable for linking batteries?
I'm looking at purchasing a 200Ah Lithium Smart Battery for my system, charged via solar (MPPT 100/30) and Alternator (Orion-Tr 12/30). I've noticed that the recommended charge for the 200Ah battery is less than or equal to 100A. Whereas the 100Ah battery is less than or equal to 50Ah which is closer to what I am expecting to charge with.
At the risk of sounding like I've already answered my own question am I better off with 2 x 100Ah batteries for this reason or is it perfectly acceptable to be charging the singular 200Ah well below the recommended minimum.
I'm looking for a way to charge my 2 lithium banks with MPPT and keep them isolated a the same time.
Here is a picture of what I have so far.
The starter has a switchable circuit to keep the Argos energise circuit live and prevent the MPPT shutting down each evening and messing with the history metrics and also give the MPPT a voltage reference when charging as I don't believe it will get one from the Argos input terminal (please confirm if I'm wrong on that). I understand that this will draw around 0.05A to have the Argo and MPPT active, which will be easily replaced by the solar charge going to the starter battery.
The 2 65A BPs are configured to lithium settings and will disconnect using the BMS charge disconnect going via the BMV relay.
This will not be an approved setup, but will it work as I've gone through serveral designs and this is the only one I haven't spotted any problems with - yet.... :)
If you have a better and supported setup for doing this I would be very interested in the details :)
I'm chasing another problem with this system, that I haven't been able to pin down. I'll give you a short amount of background, in case it's relevant.
The system originally was 2 quattros in parallel, 10 Victron Lithium batteries (300ah) and 8 100/30 mppts. I share this, because I observed in the previous setup before anything was removed...nearly 60amps charging and the owner at that time stated that it would get to 100 on a bright sunny day with no clouds.
As part of buying this boat, the previous owner took one of the quattros and 5 of the batteries. I have replaced that quattro since, so now the setup is
2 quattros in parallel (5000/12/220)
5 x 300ah Victron Lithium
8 mppts connecting about 3k in solar panels.
Here's where the issue comes in. In the middle of the day, when the sun is directly overhead, and I'm generating 1600 watts of soloar (as measured by the quattro on the cerbo screen) - I will barely reach 20amps charging, usually less. My idle draw is about 15 to 20 amps, but its always been that, so observing 60, means the production at that point was 75 to 80. Right now I'd expect 133 amps raw, before any loss or conversion or vodoo that happens between components. I think it's reasonable to guess while generating 1600 watts of solar, that I should see 100 amps (mins 15 to 20 idle)....Am I incorrect?
I know that the mppts will downscale, I've appropriatly measured the battery SOC so they should bulk, measured the temp so there are no temp issues (unless there's some settings that arent correct), and I have access to all the MPPT's through the VRM for their settings if those need tracked down.
I also know how complicated all the settings can be between MPPT's, quattros, batteries...etc. So I'm looking for some help tracking it down. I can been the hammer, just need the person to wield the tool and get me there, or tell me it's working as intended.
Thanks in advance, I love this community and how everyone helps.
P.S - If there's a victron "expert" in the area of Caribbean Martinique (or you are available to fly in) I would absolutely love to talk to you.
I have just noticed that VRM is giving me a Low Battery in my VE.Bus Warnings and Alarms as per the attached.
The MultiPlus is configured as per this
The system is constructed from 4 x 12.8v / 200Ah in a 2P2S configuration. At no time did the value get below 25V.
I cant find what triggered this, any suggestion on where to look or do I have a bug?
I updated the firmware whole the batteries were arou d 16-20% charged. It then read 100% after it updated.
I have two 200AH Lithium Ion batteries connected.
I am afraid of overcharging the batteries by manually choosing an estimated SOC, but I'm also afraid of over-discharging by NOT manually changing the SOC and them not charging above their current SOC because the system thinks they are at 100.
I guessed the SOC had charged to around 30%, so I manually changed it to that. Will a wrong guess damage my batteries as the system charges and then discharges???
What should I do???
Lately we have many requests for installing big RVs with big 24V alternators (100A or more) and also more than 400Ah or more of lithium batteries.
With lithium batteries you should use a DCDC-charger but if you want to (or have to) charge the batteries from the alternator as fast as possible you have to install 2, 3 or more Orion-TR Smart or use 2 BuckBoost 100A (which is way to expensive).
So it would be great to have an easy way to limit the current like it is possible in 12V vehicles with the Smart BMS CL 12/100.
The previous owner has disabled BT on the Smart LiFePO4 battery’s on my boat.
According to below info it is now possible re-enable BLE again.
· Add firmware v1.20:
o Added ability to re-enable BLE again after it was disabled by the user. To re-enable BLE, a specific pin of the BLE module has to be connected to the module shield for 5 seconds. Note that the cover of the battery has to be opened to re-enable Bluetooth. This can damage the battery housing. See the manual for more detailed information.
I can not find the detailed information on how to do this in any manual.
Can you please provide a link to the manual describing the procedure on how too re-enable BLE again after it was disabled on SmartLithium.
I mounted my Victron superpack 100ah lithium battery vertically in my 2016 MB Sprinter Airstream Interstate RV as the battery box and under-chassis requires. I later heard that the batteries need to be installed upright. What are the Consequences of mounting them vertically as previous batteries were mounted?
A simple question for those that know I suspect.
I'm trying to wire up a basic boat system, with a lithium house and a lead acid engine start battery. I have a Victron Orion TR Smart battery to battery charger and just want to know where the main battery isolator fits into this system. I realise both batteries must always be connected when the engine is running so that the charge has somewhere to go when the lithium battery reaches full charge. Can I continue using the traditionals 1/2/both swithch shown as per the schematic at the link below or do I need to have completely separate isolators. Can someone explain or even better draw on the schematic to complete the wiring diagram?
Many thanks for any assistance
Hi everybody. I need to charge a Li battery bank from 2 different alternators. System configuration is as follow:
Engine 1 24V 60A alternator with internal regulation connected to its start lead battery
Engine 2 24V 60A alternator with internal regulation connected to its start lead battery
House battery back is 2 x 25,6V LPF Smart 200Ah with Ve.BUS BMS.
The idea is to send two alternator positive to the busbar and put a cyrix Li-charge between them and the lithium battery bank. is there any synchro issues?
Boat owner would like to use Buckboost but I have no knowledge ho to manage with two alternators. Do you have any advise?
Can you get product serial number for a Smart Battery off the product and on Victron Connect?
We would like to get the serial number without removing cabinetry to access the batteries.
Hi, I've installed Argo FET split charger to charge my starter and 2 (separate) LFP banks. The Balmar MC614 Regulator states to place the Alternator voltage sense wire onto the largest bank if using a split charger, so in my case that would be the 400ah LFP bank.
Just a little concerned that this will potentially expose my starter to too much current and force it into a high voltage state.
I did think that using the MC614 Batt temp sensor on the starter battery might help. Other option would be to place the sense wire onto the starter battery, but then would that not prevent the LFP banks from charging?
Hope someone with a better understanding of this can help.
i'm starting my plans about a simple off-grid solar setup, built around EasySolar 48/5000 and LiFePo4 Batteries.
My goal of the setup is to have one normal european AC 230V-16A output, so that i can plug in for example a washing machine (most of them reach 3200W while heating the water), or simply all electronic products suitable for AC 230V outlets. That is why i chose the EasySolar 48/5000, that offers around the wattage necessary. Also the ability to load this with an external power source. So this is fix.
About the size of the batteries, i am not sure yet if i need double Ah, or if 100Ah is enough, but this is easy to exchange, when i know that all other components are in a correct setup.
I would really appreciate someone looking at the simple setup plan to check:
- if all the components kind of fit and work together,
- if some important parts are missing,
- if it could be simpler or less components (= cheaper, but i dont think so, its super simple already),
- what special connection cables i need, that dont come with the main products,
- is a 250A Fuse behind the batteries right? (the BatteryProtect has a Maximum Peak Current of 250A so i figured this would be fine...)
I am new to Lithium-Batteries and the VE.Bus BMS, so especially there i am not sure, if all connections are correct. Or if the VE.Bus BMS is the right BMS for me... Also i saw inverted and non-inverted remote cables. What do i need?
- do i need something like a battery balancer? it seems to me that it does not make sense with Lithium-Batteries...or am i wrong?
Im looking forward to someone leaving a statement to this setup and my questions.
Thanks in advance :)
Trying to educate myself before moving to lithium.
Can anyone explain me why would I need to buy an extra equipment (blue smart charger) to charge the starter battery when the Multiplus 12|3000|120A 16A has a trickle charge cable for that same purpose?
My future set up would be with an AGM super cycle starter battery and lithium like in this scheme from Victron.
I have a 2 x SmartSolar MPPT VE.Can 150/70 rev2, Smart lithium, MultiPlus, BMS, Cervo, etc, all Victron.
I have not found any clear documentation about the functionality one gets when connecting the SmartSolar MPPT via VE.Can or VE.Direct.
I connected them originally via VE.Can and no screens on the VenusOS would show if the MPPT's where working as a single pair, networked and in sync, or would get BMS Charge Disable signals from the Cerbo.
I have them connected via VE.Direct at the moment, and in the Cerbo there is now a "Networked operation" screen, under each charge controller. However BMS control is still No.
Is there any documentation or guidance that exists about the best protocol to use to connect the controllers and the benefits and features of each.
I really want to know if the BMS Charge Disconnect signal is passed through from VE.Direct to the MPPT's, can they work as a synchronised pair, can they get charge current (non ESS setup) from the Cerbo, etc.
I am new to Lithium and the Smart Lithium 12,8 batteries vponfigurtbed 2S2P. My boat is not accessible at the moment due to lock down and I have CANBus connected Smart Solar MPPTs.
When I left the boat, I forgot to adjust the MPPT controllers to charge to 27v, therefore maintaining the batteries at float. As there is very little load it means that my Solar charge controllers are cycling the batteries through absorption, and the Victron set 2hr's each day.
Is there anyway to reconfigure the CANBus MPPTs remotely? Will doing this for what is likely a month going to damage the cells.
I am converting to lithium batteries and will continue to use an agm deep cycle start battery. Should I draw off the start battery with the thruster and windlass. It is 100 amps
I am trying to design a cell balancing strategy for my 2 series connected Victron Lithium Batteries.
Latest manual suggests that everyday cycled batteries need 4 to 8 hours a month of cell balancing (i.e. absorption phase, battery voltage above 28V)
and that "systems with series connected batteries" may need a weekly full charge.
So, if I do a 1-2 hour absorption phase per week, is this equal to doing 4-8 hours a month?
Having had enough of running my generator for hours and hours in the winter to get my AGM's to 100% charge ( summer no problem with my solar ) I have decided that as soon as I can afford it I am switching to 2 x lovely new 200Ah Victron Smart Lithium's .
I plan to use Smart BMS CL 100/12 as my BMS in order to integrate by alternator and also my Midnite solar controller .
The Midnite can be configured to accept the Charge disconnect output of the BMS but I have an old 2007/08 Phoenix Multiplus 12/3000/120 and not sure if I can shut down the charger and loads on this with the BMS , It does not have Aux inputs of the later models .
I don't really want to spend on a new one especially since my outlay on new batteries is large and the ole Victron is in really good condition and working fine so why bin it ? there must be a way of shutting it down ? can the Cyrix Li-Charge / Load be used for example and if so how ?
Many thanks in advance
I have all Victron kit; BVM-712, Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC, MPPT 75/15, Smart IP65 AC-DC charger and the separate smart sense battery temperature monitor sitting on top of my LiFePO4 battery in a camper van.
The Aux input of the 712 is used for the starter battery. Conscious of the 5C temperature charging threashold I added the Smart Sense Battery temperature sensor. I have linked this to the VE Network.
Does the Smart Sense Battery temperature offer the same functionality as the directly connected [to the BVM 712] version? That is, it will prevent the solar charger from charging the battery if below 5C?
Will it also prevent the Smart IP65 from charging the battery if connected to shore power?
I was never planning to use my van during the winter, so when I built it this wasn’t thought-out.
Now I am using it regularly in these colder temperatures I want to make sure my system is working efficiently.
Smart Battery Protect says OUTPUT DISABLED BY REMOTE and because of that I can't use any of the 12V devices.
Can someone advise as to why there is no power going out to my 12V distribution board from the SBP100?
And the same why no power going to the Battery from the SBP200 ?
Both are saying that they have been "Output Disabled by Remote"
1. SBP100 for load disconnect
2. SBP for Load disconnect
5. BMV readings.
6. As you can see the negative voltage is coming to the negative feed of the 12V distribution. And 12 V positive feed going to SBP "IN" field, but nothing goes out to the loads.
7. VE.BUS BMS
8. SBP flashing lights
Charging my new battery (recomended by dealer) with a Bluesmart IP65 12V/15A charger connected directly to battery, set to Lithium mode & 4A before installing it in my boat. Dealer says all is OK, just install the battery/BMS etc, dont worry...........any opinions about that advice. When charger switched off, 5 hours later the cell voltage is perfect 3.32 V on all cells & "Ready for use"
On the FB group I was told there was a firmware update from v1.19 to v1.20 last week. App says I'm running the latest at v1.19. Which is correct?
I just purchased a new Orion Tr-Smart 12/12/30 Isolated DC-DC charger to install in my RV. The installation is complete and the unit is operating properly, but I am confused by the fusing recommendation in the manual. It calls for a 60 amp fuse, but the charger is only a 30 amp charger so why are both the input and output rated for a 60 amp fuse. I would have thought that 40 or 45 amps would have been more appropriate.
I asked the vendor about it but they just replied that 60 amp was the maximum size for the fuse and I have never purchased equipment with a fusing requirement where the fuse size was not the minimum fuse size, not the maximum.
Any information would be helpful. Thank you.
I have an issue with a victron 150ah LiFePO4 (600ah bank of 4 at 12v) not balancing after several attempts. It balances after about 6 hours on hook-up via the multiplus 3000/12/120 but as soon as we boat off it won't balance the next time I charge via engine or geni/multiplus, and BMS shuts down due to one cell (always the same one) going OV at 3.76v
The guy (pro) who fitted the system (now unwell) thinks its a duff battery and has asked that I swap 1 and 4 over to see what happens (cell 4 in battery 1 is the issue)
Now having a look my black BMS cables aren't wired like anything I've seen.
All diagrams I can see the left black cable of Battery1 goes to the left BMS port; the right black cable or B1 goes to B2 left cable; B2 right to B3 left, B3 right goes to battery 4 left and lastly battery 4 right to BMS right port (a 4 battery version of this link https://www.victronenergy.com/blog/2019/07/11/new-veconfigure-manual-new-detailed-marine-schematics-and-dvcc-explained/)
Mine goes B4L-B2R; B4R-B3L; B3R-B1L; B2L-BMSL; B1R-BMSR
I can't find anything wired vaguely similar ANYWHERE. The only possible reason I can see why it was done this way is that my left hand black cable is too short to go to the BMS left port and needs the 2m victron (https://www.victronenergy.com/accessories/m8-circular-connector-male-female-3-pole-cable-2m) extension cable
Q1) is my wiring enough to mess with the cell balancing?
Q2) should I buy the extension cable and wire it as per the diagrams I can find regardless of whether I have a duff battery on not?
Hi, I'm putting a solar system into a 4x4 overland vehicle and I was wondering how robust the Lithium Smart batteries are in regards to vehicle vibrations for off-road use and on badly corrugated roads. Would heavy duty AGMs be better suited?
I've read Para 3.2 of the manual for the LIFePO4 Smart Lithium Batteries. I understand why it is OK to do a first charge of a group of batteries if they are in parallel.
I haven't figured out why the recommended charging rate for the group of batteries being charged for the first time, in parallel, is C/20, where C is the value for one of the batteries, not for the group of batteries. I think I know, but I'd like to know the official answer. :-)
The problem with this recommendation is the amount of time it will take to bring three 12.8V/300Ah Smart Lithium Batteries up to full charge, starting from their delivery State of Charge of 50% or less, and then hold it there for 'an absorption period of several hours at 14.2V', all at a charging output from a MultiPlus of no more than 15 amps! Can the Multi be reigned back like that? Perhaps the Cerbo can control it.
Please tell me if my maths is right:
300Ah x 3 = 900Ah x 50% = 450 Amps of charging for 1 hour to fill the three batteries, or
450Ah / 15A = 30 hours + 5 hours of absorption @14.2V for balancing of cells = 35 hours.
Do you agree that I need to allocate ~35 hours for the initial charging, done for the three batteries simultaneously, in parallel? To save time (and because we need to launch the boat and move it to a marina berth) this is likely to be done in two blocks of hours; first for five hours on the MultiPlus, then a break for an hour during launch, then motoring with the alternator's charge limited to 50 amps for up to 30 minutes. Then we'll recommence the MultiPlus charging, at 15A, until the batteries reach full charge and have their 'several' hours of balancing. All with me sitting on them like a mother hen.
I don't imagine the short period of throttled back alternator charging at three times the C/20 rate will do any damage, but do tell if you think differently.
I am keen to get these batteries off to a very good start. They cost a bomb!