i have approximately 6 months old solar system on a camper consisting of these components: Victron mppt 100/30, LIONTRON Lithium LiFePO4 LX Smart 12,8V 100Ah, three solar panels 12V/100W, Converter SINUS Victron Energy Phoenix VE.Direct 800VA 12V, Cyrix-ct 12-24V 120A connection to alternator.
Everything was working perfectly until recently. Suddenly im no longer able to fully charge my battery. I can usually get it to around 50 % and then mppt turns to float. I think it shows absorption point has been reached [14.20V], which should indicate battery is full [unless im mistaken], however that is definitely not the case. If a turn solar panels on/off, it goes back to bulk, but only for a couple of minutes. Adding screenshots of mppt history and battery overview. Im somewhat suspicious its connected to the firmware update a while ago, however im by no means certain as i dont check it that regularly and therefore only noticed the issue with a delay.
Thank you for any suggestions,
good afternoon, i am in the beginning stages of converting my TT from LA to LIFePo4. I have purchased a CHINS 12.8v 300ah lifepo4 battery and i have already upgraded my LA WFCO charger to the proper WFCO charger to handle LI battery charging.
I have pulled the 6ga pos & neg battery cables to the inside compartment under master bed where my battery system will reside.
Here are my questions:
1) are the 6ga wires big enough for this new system?
2)i plan on ordering the Victron Energy SmartShunt 500 amp Battery Monitor
3) i am told i need an auto switch, to go back and forth from shore power to battery power, is there a Victron model?
4) i also need an inverter to use my 110V side of my trailer when not plugged in to shore power (i'm aiming for a 2000W pure sine inverter)
5) ordered battery cutoff switch
6) my main questions are:
a)since the TT already uses 6ga wire, can i stay w/ 6 ga wire to connect the shunt, switch & inverter?
b) am i missing anything? do i need bus bars, inline wired fuses (what amp fuse), larger fuses?
c) install directions to wire all this up? My local RV dealers are clueless so this is DIY
TIA for any help!
Hello. I have problem with this. (three phase) Configuration is 3x Multiplus II 3000W 48V, GX modul, 1x MPPT regultor 150V/85 and 1x MPPT regulator 150/70, 1x VictronSMARTHUNT 500A with 16x lifepo4 battery 300Ah. BMS is JIKONG B2A24S150 and current senzor. With ESS configure. When battery is fully charged and connect with GRID system fall down and multiplus II is restart When enegry is in FV panels. I disabled feed-in is disabled. Grid metering is "Inverter/Chrarger" If I use off-grid everything is corect don´t resatart. Have you ever solved this problem.
Hi - I just got the Blue Smart IP67 charger. It states that for Lithium-ion batteries, the charging voltage is 14.2V, and float is 13.5V. My batteries are rated differently: 14.6V/13.8V. Is there a way to reconfigure the charger with the proper voltage? I couldn't find such option in the app. Appreciate any help!
I'm using the 24V / 13A Blue Smart IP65 Charger on two 120Ah LiFEPO4 batteries in series. It's working OK but I would really like to tweek the Bulk Absorption up from 28.4V to the 28.8V receommendation from the battery manufacturer. I may also need to change the 2 hour absorption time limit.
However the settings are greyed out (WTF?). Is it possible to chnage these settings somehow?
Est-il possible d'installer une batterie Lithium dans un camping car alors que les chargeurs AC/DC et DC/DC n'ont pas de position Lithium. D'avance merci
Hi the collective hive of information.
I am in the middle of commissioning an Orion TR Smart 12/12-30A on a VW T6 Camper van. The system doesn't seem to be triggering that often, and even after a couple of hours driving the Lithium batteries are not full.
All default settings have been used, but the start battery is regularly at 12.3-12.5v.
Are the default settings too aggressive, do they need to be dropped. If so any recomendations. I have done various searches and running second battery charging with Euro 6 engines seems to be a dark art with little information about what a good set of settings should be.
My instincts as opposed to science or knowledge is to:
Drop Input Voltage Lockout to be 12.1v / 12.3v. After starting the engine and idling the starter battery is regularly at 12.2v, so restarting shouldn't be an issue at 12.1v.
Setting Start Voltage to 13.2v
Setting Delayed start to 12.8v
Setting shutdown voltage to 12.7v
Any guidance, are these values too low?
I have the following setup in tests before installing it on a sailboat with some more Victron equipment:
We have the system working but with some important configurations to be done and for which I would like your help:
I need a definitive answer from someone that really knows what they are talking about.
It’s always being bandied about that the solar panels must be disconnected before the batteries, otherwise the Victron SmartSolar MPPT Controller will be damaged. Well, I find it pretty hard to believe that this unit is designed to self-destruct if its outputs are disconnected from the battery by any means; fuse, switch or otherwise. before the solar panels are disconnected.
I want to use a common port BMS with a LiFePo4 battery setup, and from what I’ve read, the BMS will break the battery connection to the MPPT at some point which, in turn, will damage the MPPT charge controller.
I do know the manual for the SmartSolar MPPT 100|30 states “First: connect the battery. Second: connect the solar array (when connected with reverse polarity, the controller will heat up but will not charge the battery). Torque: 1,6 Nm” but, scratching around the net I found the website pkys.com, and in their right-up on the Victron SmartSolar they state “You need to make the battery connections first so it knows what battery voltage you have. In the programming you can tell it the battery voltage and then in the future it won't matter what order you make the connections”. Now is this statement correct? If it is correct all this stuff about damaging the charge controller is just people talking parrot fashion, and there is no problem using a common port BMS on this charge controller; so long as one does the initial battery voltage programming of the charge controller first!
Any engineers responsible for designing these Victron charge controllers on this board??????????
I am planning a battery upgrade for my new 4x4 which comes factory with a single 105ah AGM battery.
Due to space constraints I am planning to add around 100ah of LIFEPO4 prismatic cells to beef up the capacity.
All the loads i want to run are already wired off the AGM battery and I don't want to move all the circuits over to the lithium battery. The vehicle has a very complicated electrical system that I would like to leave as standard as possible.
So the plan is to have the lithium charging through a DC/DC while the engine is running, then when the engine is off the DC/DC will disconnect and the lithium will be used to charge the AGM as my camping loads slowly deplete it. In theory the AGM will stay at 100% SOC until the lithium is discharged. Then the lithium cuts out and I am discharging from the AGM.
I think this will work but welcome any comments, I'm a little out of my depth here.
The current plan is to use another, smaller DC/DC charger from the lithium into the AGM. Although looking at the voltage curves I wonder if I could save some money by switching to a cheaper DC/DC converter set at 12.8v, or even just a Victron Smart Battery Protect. With the battery protect only, the AGM should see a float charge of 13.8v from the full lithium, dropping down to 12.8v as it discharges. Then, I guess, they both both discharge together until the BMS cuts the lithium out at 12.0v. By which time the AGM is empty anyway and I need to run the engine or stop drawing power.
Is this reasonable? Or should I stick with a second DC/DC charger?
Serious question, please bear with me.
It seems that some boaters are supplementing tired AGM batteries with extra LiFePO4 batteries in parallel. My understanding is that this shouldn't be done. But I hear that many are pleased with the results.
Are there any gains?
Are there drawbacks?
Are they fooling themselves?
Are there any dangers involved?
I just set up my first small solar system. 2x200W panels, a 24V LiFePo4 battery (29,2V fully charged) and a Victron 100/20 charging controller. Now I'm a bit worried because of a strange behavior - when it's sunny the 100/20 controller shows the battery charging for a minute, at let's say a voltage of 28V and then suddenly the battery voltage shows 33V and the charging stops. Then suddenly it's back to 28V, charging again, and this cycle keeps repeating.
FIY: The controller is of course set to LiFePo4, 24V.
So might this be the controller's fault or the battery? And do I have to be worried something might blow up?
I would like to know if my Victron 20W solar panel be suitable to power my Invicta Lithium 12V 9Ah Lifepo4 Battery.
Victron solar panel specifications:
Lifepo4 battery specifications:
Power manager (MPPT):
I would also like to interface the solar panel and battery using my Victron SmartSolar MPPT 75/10 solar charge controller.
The reason why I ask is to get an understanding of:
1. Compatibility between all three components, &
2. An approximate or average on long would it take to charge up the battery, if the battery was in a depleted state (at a cut off voltage of say 10.5v).
Your help would be much appreciated. Thank you.
Im currently doing a camper van conversion and I’m trying to set up my Nation’s 2nd alternator regulated by a Balmar 614 to work with my Victron system. I have four 200ah 12v Victron smart lithium batteries being managed by a VE. Bus BMS. I was advised that I could use a Battery Protect in Lithium mode connected to the “allow to charge” port on my BMS. The battery protect is connected to the ignition wire of the Balmar voltage regulator. If ever the battery was under or over appropriate temperature for charging, the BMS would open the circuit on the battery protect thereby cutting the ignition wire to the alternator.
I wired up the system last weekend and the alternator was working fine until today when I programmed the battery protect into Lithium mode and connected it to my BMS. Now the circuit seems open as the Balmar regulator is not powering on.
Any idea why I’m not getting power to my alternator now?
Hope all of that makes sense. I’m a newbie for sure so any help you can offer is greatly appreciated.
Ich habe ein 220wp Photovoltaik Leistung auf unserem Camper und eine 280Ah LiFePo4 Batterie. Beide werden über einen Victron 75/10 MPPT verbunden. Die Batterie wird auch über den Landstrom und Lichtanlage bei der Fahrt geladen. Leider hat mein System immer wieder ein Problem, weil die Solaranlage aus unbekannten Gründen die Batterie einfach nicht mehr lädt und die Spannung immer um die 0.1-0.2.V unter der Batterie Spannung "Tänzelt" egal, wie voll die Batterie ist oder wie viel Sonne gerade scheint. Wenn es dann doch funktioniert ist die Spannung bei 30-40V und max 140wp.
Was mache ich hier falsch oder hat der MPPT eine Fehlfunktion?
Vielen Dank für den Support