I am planning a battery upgrade for my new 4x4 which comes factory with a single 105ah AGM battery.
Due to space constraints I am planning to add around 100ah of LIFEPO4 prismatic cells to beef up the capacity.
All the loads i want to run are already wired off the AGM battery and I don't want to move all the circuits over to the lithium battery. The vehicle has a very complicated electrical system that I would like to leave as standard as possible.
So the plan is to have the lithium charging through a DC/DC while the engine is running, then when the engine is off the DC/DC will disconnect and the lithium will be used to charge the AGM as my camping loads slowly deplete it. In theory the AGM will stay at 100% SOC until the lithium is discharged. Then the lithium cuts out and I am discharging from the AGM.
I think this will work but welcome any comments, I'm a little out of my depth here.
The current plan is to use another, smaller DC/DC charger from the lithium into the AGM. Although looking at the voltage curves I wonder if I could save some money by switching to a cheaper DC/DC converter set at 12.8v, or even just a Victron Smart Battery Protect. With the battery protect only, the AGM should see a float charge of 13.8v from the full lithium, dropping down to 12.8v as it discharges. Then, I guess, they both both discharge together until the BMS cuts the lithium out at 12.0v. By which time the AGM is empty anyway and I need to run the engine or stop drawing power.
Is this reasonable? Or should I stick with a second DC/DC charger?
Serious question, please bear with me.
It seems that some boaters are supplementing tired AGM batteries with extra LiFePO4 batteries in parallel. My understanding is that this shouldn't be done. But I hear that many are pleased with the results.
Are there any gains?
Are there drawbacks?
Are they fooling themselves?
Are there any dangers involved?
I'm using the 24V / 13A Blue Smart IP65 Charger on two 120Ah LiFEPO4 batteries in series. It's working OK but I would really like to tweek the Bulk Absorption up from 28.4V to the 28.8V receommendation from the battery manufacturer. I may also need to change the 2 hour absorption time limit.
However the settings are greyed out (WTF?). Is it possible to chnage these settings somehow?
good afternoon, i am in the beginning stages of converting my TT from LA to LIFePo4. I have purchased a CHINS 12.8v 300ah lifepo4 battery and i have already upgraded my LA WFCO charger to the proper WFCO charger to handle LI battery charging.
I have pulled the 6ga pos & neg battery cables to the inside compartment under master bed where my battery system will reside.
Here are my questions:
1) are the 6ga wires big enough for this new system?
2)i plan on ordering the Victron Energy SmartShunt 500 amp Battery Monitor
3) i am told i need an auto switch, to go back and forth from shore power to battery power, is there a Victron model?
4) i also need an inverter to use my 110V side of my trailer when not plugged in to shore power (i'm aiming for a 2000W pure sine inverter)
5) ordered battery cutoff switch
6) my main questions are:
a)since the TT already uses 6ga wire, can i stay w/ 6 ga wire to connect the shunt, switch & inverter?
b) am i missing anything? do i need bus bars, inline wired fuses (what amp fuse), larger fuses?
c) install directions to wire all this up? My local RV dealers are clueless so this is DIY
TIA for any help!
Est-il possible d'installer une batterie Lithium dans un camping car alors que les chargeurs AC/DC et DC/DC n'ont pas de position Lithium. D'avance merci
I just set up my first small solar system. 2x200W panels, a 24V LiFePo4 battery (29,2V fully charged) and a Victron 100/20 charging controller. Now I'm a bit worried because of a strange behavior - when it's sunny the 100/20 controller shows the battery charging for a minute, at let's say a voltage of 28V and then suddenly the battery voltage shows 33V and the charging stops. Then suddenly it's back to 28V, charging again, and this cycle keeps repeating.
FIY: The controller is of course set to LiFePo4, 24V.
So might this be the controller's fault or the battery? And do I have to be worried something might blow up?
I would like to know if my Victron 20W solar panel be suitable to power my Invicta Lithium 12V 9Ah Lifepo4 Battery.
Victron solar panel specifications:
Lifepo4 battery specifications:
Power manager (MPPT):
I would also like to interface the solar panel and battery using my Victron SmartSolar MPPT 75/10 solar charge controller.
The reason why I ask is to get an understanding of:
1. Compatibility between all three components, &
2. An approximate or average on long would it take to charge up the battery, if the battery was in a depleted state (at a cut off voltage of say 10.5v).
Your help would be much appreciated. Thank you.
Im currently doing a camper van conversion and I’m trying to set up my Nation’s 2nd alternator regulated by a Balmar 614 to work with my Victron system. I have four 200ah 12v Victron smart lithium batteries being managed by a VE. Bus BMS. I was advised that I could use a Battery Protect in Lithium mode connected to the “allow to charge” port on my BMS. The battery protect is connected to the ignition wire of the Balmar voltage regulator. If ever the battery was under or over appropriate temperature for charging, the BMS would open the circuit on the battery protect thereby cutting the ignition wire to the alternator.
I wired up the system last weekend and the alternator was working fine until today when I programmed the battery protect into Lithium mode and connected it to my BMS. Now the circuit seems open as the Balmar regulator is not powering on.
Any idea why I’m not getting power to my alternator now?
Hope all of that makes sense. I’m a newbie for sure so any help you can offer is greatly appreciated.
Ich habe ein 220wp Photovoltaik Leistung auf unserem Camper und eine 280Ah LiFePo4 Batterie. Beide werden über einen Victron 75/10 MPPT verbunden. Die Batterie wird auch über den Landstrom und Lichtanlage bei der Fahrt geladen. Leider hat mein System immer wieder ein Problem, weil die Solaranlage aus unbekannten Gründen die Batterie einfach nicht mehr lädt und die Spannung immer um die 0.1-0.2.V unter der Batterie Spannung "Tänzelt" egal, wie voll die Batterie ist oder wie viel Sonne gerade scheint. Wenn es dann doch funktioniert ist die Spannung bei 30-40V und max 140wp.
Was mache ich hier falsch oder hat der MPPT eine Fehlfunktion?
Vielen Dank für den Support
Working on install with Victron Lithium Smart 330A battery to a Lynx distributor system. Question on fusing. I am trying to find out if Victron publishes the short-circuit current rating so I can validate that the MEGA fuse in the Lynx distributor has a high enough AIC for the battery OR whether I need to go to an external class T fuss with a higher AIC.
This is separate from fusing to meet the minimum requirement of protecting the battery cable and more in understanding the AIC rating I need to have.
Currently have 2 of the BlueSolar PWM-DUOs rigged up in parrallel, so each one has a connection to battery bank 1 output and battery bank 2 output.
Is it acceptable for bank 1 and 2 to have different Ah capacities?
Specifically 10Ah 24V on one and 32Ah 24V on the other.
I have the following setup in tests before installing it on a sailboat with some more Victron equipment:
We have the system working but with some important configurations to be done and for which I would like your help:
Good Morning community.
Apparently my requirement is very exotic, at least I can't find a solution for it.
But first my equipment:
So what is my goal? quite simple: charge the battery and then use available solar power for the current power consumption.
Unfortunately I can't get any further here. The charging process goes well with my settings up to about 90% SOC, but then the MPPT goes into the float phase and the battery is discharged again. Due to the property of lithium battery, the rebulk voltage will not be reached...
How can I configure the system so that the MPPT delivers the current power consumption and keeps the battery on the SOC until there is no longer enough solar energy available?
I hope someone can help, thanks in advance.
For organizational purposes, I'm thinking of running my positive and negative battery cables to opposite ends of my Lynx Distributor. I can run them to the same side if necessary, but the way things are set up and given where the battery terminals are in relation to the Lynx, it would be easiest, most organized, and shortest cable runs to have the positive attached to one end, and the negative to the other.
I'm thinking this should be totally fine, they are essentially two separate busbars after all. Does anyone see an issue with this setup? Positive will obviously be fused at the battery and have a switch before the distributor, negative will have smartshunt.
my config is:
- 3x Multiplus 5000
- 3x MPPT 250/100
- Cerbo GX
- BYD LVL 15.4
- 45 x Sunrise Energy SR-M660340HL -> 15,3 kWp
- In plan: Fronius Symo on AC-Out
Here is my question:
I would like to limit the maximum charge level. For example, to 90% SOC. I can not find this setting in cerbo gx. Is it possible that this setting does not exist at all? Why? Many other manufacturers have this option. I think this would be a good option to save the battery in the summer. Since peaks occur here from time to time. And the battery is loaded beyond its limit. Especially if you plan to add another inverter. Even if this adheres to the 1.0 rule. Here it would be better if the battery still had reserves. And from time to time, the battery could charge to 100% to balance the cells.
Are there any efforts on the part of Victron Energy here?
Thanks for help.
greetings from germany
from an enthusiastic Victron user