Looking at options to build a system for a global boat using a 48V lithium storage system. Would like to keep the AC shore power in separate to enable global shore power capability that is frequency and voltage agnostic.
Looking at the Victron catalogue, I don't see any options to support 120V or ideally 120V/240V AC 48V battery charging.
Can you put any 24V Victron chargers in series (e.g. Skylla-IP65) in series to get 48V charging?
Any third party options that you can recommend? Prefer not to add additional weight, complexity and space with voltage or isolation transformers in the input side.
I have the Orion-TR Smart 12/12V-30A Isolated Charger w/ 60amp breaker after the battery that keeps tripping. I see there are many comments from others on a thread that would lead me to believe that it is the breaker I purchased off of Amazon that is likely the culprit. But really how bad can these breakers be that would have my tripping a 60amp breaker. I'm going to look at the input wires tomorrow to see if there is an issue with one some copper straying on the positive side. Is there anything else I can be looking for? the install at the battery appears to be clean and I'm using 6 gauge wiring from engine compartment to the tailgate and anderson style 50amp connectors
I am thinking about replacing the charger/converter in my RV. It has a WFCO WF-8955LiS and I want to replace it with the Victron Blue Smart IP22 12-Volt 30 Amp charger. My thinking being I want to configure very specific custom charging profiles for my LiFePo4 batteries, 90% SOC before taking off for a trip, 50% SOC for storage and the existing WFCO charger is does not have configurable profiles.
The charger/converter in an RV not only charges the batteries but also acts as a power supply for all of the onboard 12v appliances when the RV is plugged into shore power. I have no doubts that the Blue Smart IP22 30 Amp charger will charge my LiFePo4 batteries to my desired profiles but would it also be able to power the 12v appliances at the same time while charging my batteries? and continue to power my 12v appliances once my batteries are charged? I know this Victron charger has a power supply function but I would have it in charging mode as the first priority is charging the LiFePo4 batteries.
Will this work? Is there a better solution I'm not thinking of?
Some additional notes:
I searched the forum and I apologize if I missed the same question(s) ...
I have a truck and 5th wheel RV/camper and I want to be able to charge the RV batteries using the Victron DC-DC charger(s).
The truck has two alternators (125ADC each = 250ADC total) and two batteries. Best I can tell is the batteries are wired in parallel (12VDC) and both are used as starting batteries with no isolation between them. Truck is a 2013 GMC Sierra 2500HD
1. Should I go with one or two of the 12/12-30A units? The DC-DC charger(s) will be mounted in the RV.
2. I assume I should I get the Isolated unit(s)?
3. How do I wire it/them in to the battery(s)? Do I connect both units to one battery or one unit to each battery?
Thanks for any and all help!
I'm looking for a 24v, 50 amp battery charger. It appears that all of the Skylla family of chargers, with the exception of the IP65, require an input voltage of 230 vac. There is some conflicting information that relates to universal input voltage but that always seems to circle back to 230 vac. Does Victron offer any chargers at 24v, 50 amp that have an input voltage of 115 vac?
I am looking for a charger that
- can recharge a deep discharged battery AND can be remotely monitored.
Looking at the Victron chargers, the Blue Smart IP67 would match the "deep discharged" - but it has Bluetooth only, so no remote monitoring
On the Phoenix Smart IP43 series I cannot find info about deeply discharged batteries ...
The solution is for a remote telco system ( wireless internet service ) .. so I'd rather deep discharge before interrupting critical service
Any hits are highly welcome
I have a 4 year old victron 12v 80a charger in a boat with 16a shore power, charging 3 x 220ah l/a batteries. Located in engine room which is pretty dry. I leave if off normally as don’t like to cook the batteries. The Problem is, unless I leave a dehumidifier running in the E/R and it’s super-dry, the charger trips the breaker circuit when switched on It’s very susceptible to moisture. It’s works fine if dehumidifier left running. Any ideas?
I need to know, how I must connect two alternators, charger, and battery.
I have two battery - single starter battery for both engines and single service battery.
I want to use battery isolator (smart relay) for isolate starter battery from service battery but what I must do with alternators? I think I can use simple parallel connection without any diodes.
But may be You can tell me best practice for twin engine boats?
In the same discussion Victron added that this phenomina has been discussed while preparing the IP65 design.
Old harbours may be fused at 6A or 10A rather than 16A. The shore fuse may not be accessable after it trips (a reset will do, if accessable).
1:-is the IP65 12/25A model year 2021 adapted in a way to limit the inrush current to 5A or such that a 6A fuse will not trip?
2:-to which save fuse size have the IP65 improvements result in: are 6A and 10A tested?
3:-if not, is Victron willing to test this (or these) charger(s) in order to document needed fuse level and inrush limiter recommendation?
4:-is there a Victron approved hardware interface or schematic with component list available for save use at 6A fuses (a 5A inrush limiter)?
5:-neither manuals are prescribing an “aansluitwaarde” (current supply level) and do not warn for low level harbour fuses. The charger will only take 1.5A average so this inrush is very unexpected. Will you update the manual or supply an addendum on the product tab of the website?
We have a seagoing trailer sailer located in the Netherlands and are planning sailing from remote locations next year, where neither 16A nor 24/7 harbour master may be obvious. The IP65 12/25 is the main charging source for the lfp battery.
Please add the question numbers as a reference to your answers. Thank you.
I installed my DC/DC charger in my truck camper. It works fine. My question is once I disconnected the DC/DC charger after removing the camper do I need to go through the set up process again when I reconnected the charger to the truck battery.
I would like to know if we can use a centaur charger as 12V power supply without batteries. This is for a boat..
It is ok? or it will cause the charger to oscillate output voltage? someone have tested? or used as power supply?. I didn't see anything about this on the manual.
I currently have the following Victron products and want to add solar and 240v charging to my system
I also need to add some more 12v appliances and upgrade the current battery for a trip
Here is what I have currently
1 Cyrix CT 230a connecting the starter and 100ah AGM battery
2 BMV712 and Shunt
I have individually fused connections to the battery for DC loads (Fridge and lights) and want to tidy it all up when adding the solar and mains charging
Is the following diagram the correct way to incorporate the solar controller and 230v charger ?
Specifically should I connect all the 3 charging inputs positives to the POS BUS BAR and all the Negatives to the SHUNT ? if so which side ?
Could someone please let me know what is the total current of 3 outputs in parallel of a Phoenix Smart ip43 charger 24/25(3)?
Would it be 25x3=75A? Is it still 25A total?
I am charging a single bank of 24V batteries and I can use all 3 outputs in parallel if this provides more charging current.
I have an Blue Smart IP67 installed on a boat. The negative lead runs to the negative bus bar which is properly grounded via the engine and prop shaft. When I unplug the charger and disconnect the positive lead then bridge it directly to the battery with a multimeter, it shows 12+ volts and draws around 5 milliamps.
Is this normal? If so, what is going on?
I have a Phoenix Smart Charger IP42 50A 1+1 that I am using to charge my lithium bank (not victron, DIY build).
My problem is that only minutes after switching on the charger, even if batteries are almost empty, the charger goes to absorption stage. The voltage (as shown in screenshots below) have not reached my set absorption voltage. The charger is not charging at max capacity, not is it charging at any constant voltage. The voltage changes slightly up and down. I don't see how this should be possible?
I really just want my charger to go full power constant current until my BMS system switches it of. I have set the absorption voltage higher in the charger than in my BMS. I do not want to use the supply function in the charger since I like the fact that the settings in the charger will protect my batteries should the BMS fail somehow.
Now the absorption timer kicked in and it transitioned to float. Dropping the voltage and charge current even more.... :-(
Still nowhere near absorption voltage I set...
I see the following statement in the IP67 manual (15e).
“A marine (boat) battery must be removed and charged on shore. To charge it on board requires equipment specially designed for marine use.”
I am planning on installing an IP67 permanently on my sail boat to charge two lithium batteries. My understanding was that this charger was suitable for marine use. I would, therefore, be interested in knowing what makes it inappropriate for permanent installation on a boat?
quand je coupe la sortie load du chargeur, mes lampes 12v s'alument très faiblement idem pour les deux sorties USB . Alors qu'en temps normal il ne doit plus y avoir de tension quand je coupe la sortie load en mode H. Le problème à persisté même sur les mode L et L01-L23.
remarque. les lampes éclairent normalement quand la sortie Load est sur On .
By mistake the original temp sensor is lost. What is inside it? NTC or? What happens if I use the charger without the sensor? Does it default to 25 degrees Celcius or? The batteries will never be hot in this application. (In a cellar under a summer cottage) So there is no danger of overcharging.
I have a (2017) Swift Select motorhome, complete with Sargent EC500 system, including the PX-300 charger/power supply.
As the PX-300 is a low-tech charger (wasn't designed to meet the needs of modern AGM batteries etc) I want to replace the PX-300 with a suitable Victron unit. Current preference is the 25 amp BlueSmart IP67 charger (the PX-300 is also 25 Amp). As an alternative I could fit the BlueSmart IP22 - however this is only available in 20 and 30 amp outputs. (30 is too much, but I think the 20 would be fine.
The crux of my question relates to the 12v 'mains on' trigger feed I need to send back to the EC500. Sargents PX-300 PSU has a 12v output which is used to tell the EC500 that the mains is connected so the system knows that mains is available. How could I achieve this with a Victron charger? (data sheet/manual is on this link: https://sargentltd.co.uk/shop/product/px300_charger/152)
A: buying the 20A BlueSmart IP22 unit with 3 outputs, and using one of these as the trigger for the EC500 'mains on signal'- however this seems like overkill and means I lose 5amps of power (as Victron don't do a 25amp version of this charger, and 30A would be more than my 130Ah leisure batt could take)
B: buying the 25A BlueSmart IP67 unit and using some sort of diode arrangement so that the 'mains on' signal would work when 12 is flowing from the charger to the battery, but not when power is flowing only from the battery - however this would be a real faff to set up and wouldn't be particularly elegant.
I've noticed on the pictures of the IP67, there's also a small orange cable - however it isn't clear what this is for and the manuals don't mention it. Is it possible this is a 12v trigger feed - or is this a temperature probe or similar?
Any thoughts would be very welcome. I'm confident others will have done this - so please share your experience.
Kind regards, Richard
My Victron setup is 2x Quattro in parallel to VE Bus, 2x smart solar mppt and the Skylla-1 in parallel connected to a Cerbo GX via VE-Can also a REC BMS is connected to VE BMS everything works well. As soon as I connect the VE-can to NMEA 2000 cable the Skylla-i goes into error mode. All the cables have been replaced with the exception of the ve-can to nmea2000 cable. When I remove the VE-Can to Nmea cable the Skylla-i comes back to life. When the Skylla-i is removed from the parallel string the VE-Can to nmea 2000 cable doesn't cause any problems. When the Skylla-i is running stand-alone (just with the control panel ) it works fine also, I also have swopped the ve can ports on the Skylla-i and the Cerbo GX but it makes no difference. I haven't got the fuse installed in the VE-Can to nmea2000 cable as my Maretron network is already powered. I also tested my new spare Cerbo GX same results. Any ideas???
I am considering using two IP22 12V/30A 1 output chargers in parallel for charging two 12V 100AH lithium batteries that are wired in parallel. I would want to have access to both IP22s at the same time via Victron Connect (for example to reduce the charging load, use night mode, etc.). Is there a way to pair and access two IP22s with Victron Connect (or will they only pair one at a time)?
I am running the BMV-712, Battery Smart Temp Sensor and the MPPT 100/15 with a 2x LiFePo4 200amp hour battery bank. The battery bank has BMS onboard but a low temp cutoff is not included unfortunately. I have things set with the MPPT to cutoff charging at 3deg C but that is only when charging from solar. It looked like if I set the BMV-712 relay low temp cutoff setting to 3deg C, it would cut charging regardless of whether it was from solar or the AC charge converter but my tests are showing the relay closed when it's supposed to be, however the AC charge converter is still charging the battery bank. Any thoughts or ideas? Thank you in advance.
hi i have to replace the diode on my boat from the 80;s which would be best orion dc dc charger or dc dc converter can some explain the difference thx colin
I actually have 2 identical house banks on boat and would order 2 chargers. I do not see that there is an arm mode I am assuming there is one. also could the bluetooth work consecutively or would they get confused? I assume bluetooth only works when charger is plugged in to 110 ac so I could not see battery condition when underway unless I am running a generator..
Do I need a DCDC charger using just a solar MPPT?
4WD canopy and I want to try 100% solar charging without using the car alternator
Battery is a single 110ah lithium battery
Solar panels have yet to be purchased but I want to buy a single fixed panel approx 350W, hardwired, and a 180W blanket. When I run them both, via a switch I expect to run them in series as I understand this is the most efficient option for unbalanced panels.
Is there a 'perfect' sizing for a Victron MPPT and panels?
my english skills are not the best. I apologize for that.
My question is: Is it allowed to mount a phoenix smart ip 43 charger horizontally if there is sufficient ventilation? The instructions recommend a vertical installation.
As the title says, I have a SmartSolar MPPT Charger and a VE.Bus BMS, to which I have just added a Smart Orion-TR Non-Isolated Charger. I currently already have a VE.Direct non inverting remote on-off cable to connect the BMS charge disconnect output to the MPPT VE.Direct interface. Now I want to also control the Orion-TR via the BMS charge disconnect.
Can the digital charge disconnect output of the VE.Bus BMS drive both the input of the Orion-TR remote on/off and the input of VE-Direct non-inverting cable module? In other words, can I leave the non-inverting remote on/off cable plugged into the BMS and simply add a wire from the BMS to the Orion?
I would like to charge my batteries with solar and while driving with the alternator. How do i connect the dc dc charger and the mppt to my batteries?
I have a 150/35 and I was told that if I went over the rated wattage with the pv it wouldn't damage the charge controller is this true?
What I was told was that it would cut what you can collect to the max rated wattage of the charge contoller.