I'm running 3 of these 24/48 8.5a Orion Converter's and a dedicated 150/60 MPPT (for alternator charging) after my 1200W Victron Buck Boost Converter. The Orion's + MPPT output is about 700-800W+. This would appear to be a result of their 11% individual efficiency losses stacking.
Is this in fact how they work? Thanks!
***this is an experimental system necessary to achieve the 33v charging output needed for my high 24v (28-33v operational voltage) Nissan Leaf battery system.
I'll be continuing testing and checking shared load via temperature and dc current clamp metering.
If I decide to go another direction it will be with a Safiery Scotty 3000W device.
I recently installed a pair of Orion-tr smart dc-dc chargers to charge my lithium bank and they were operational during my first test run. (They weren't quite as powerful as I expected, but were working).
Because the RV is primarily parked (at this time of year), I often connect a NOCO Genius 12V charger to keep the vehicle batteries from going dead.
Between the install / first test and a drive today, the 12V charger was connected for a couple weeks.
I did not isolate (breakers) the Orions during this time and wonder if there is any way that the starter battery charger could have killed the Orions? I would have expected that they would either accept the charge or reject it, but not that they could be damaged.
They are completely unresponsive. No changing. No blue tooth. No visibility on the app.
Does anyone have any advice on what the issue is and / or if there is a way to reset them?
no answers found and such an important point.
The VSR (voltage sensing relay) worked fine with the old 3 stage dcdc, 12-30V input, but with the Orion it switches on/off several times before staying on and Orion can charge.
Can we use VSRs with the Orions or do we have to run cable to ignition?
Do they all switch the load on at ones that the voltage drop on the incoming side lets the VSR open up? Could someone from Victron answer that to all off us please?
hi, I am charging 400Ah lifepo4 through an Orion 24/12-70 none isolated. When I connect the load side or when the electronic battery isolator switches the Orions input 24V on with 12V connected, it makes a sound like something would melt away inside. Is this normal? No smell and it works so far.
Also the 24V input gets pulled down so much that the electronic battery isolator before the Orions 24V input disconnects and reconnects a few times. After a minute or so it stays connected and the Orion starts charging. Previously I had a Redarc DCBC 40A with 12-30V input and that one did not irritate the isolator switch.
Does anybody has the same experiences with battery isolators inline with the Orions and that sound?
I want to charge a 140 Wh gel battery with an Orion 24-12/25A from a 24V system. Would direct be OK or should I use a MPPT charger in between to regulate? What voltage is best to set the Orion to? Anything else I should consider? Thanks
I have a 24V battery-bank, powered by solar panels and a 12V battery, powered by a windmill. I want to be able to charge the 12V battery also from the 24V system. I'm thinking the Isolated Orion 24/12 20A should do the job. Is that the right choice or am I overlooking anything?
I have a 48v off-grid setup in an extremely cold weather area. The generator has a cold weather kit that uses it's own 12v starter battery to heat the battery and oil pan. I installed an Orion Tr 48/12 30 amp to keep the starter battery charged.
Can I have the Orion constantly charging the starter battery, even when the generator is running and the alternator is pushing power into the battery? Unfortunately the 48v Orions are not "smart", and there is very little documentation about how it actually works.
Currently we have the on/off jumper wired to relay two on the Venus GX, but that can only be toggled manually.
I'm a boat owner with a 12v to 24v (27.5v out) Orion Switch Mode Isolated DC/DC Converter that has blown either due to age or maybe salt water contamination. (...or both...)
I can easily find and replace burned components, but I need help to identify them please?
Any other related advice and opinions are also appreciated.
J'ai remarqué que le câblage de mes 2 convertisseurs orions étaient particuliers.
Ils rechargent un parc de batterie en 48v.
1- Le Négatif du 24v ( sortie ) était branché sur le Negatif 12v ( entrée).. cela peut endommagé les batteries ?
2- que signifie isolated pour mon cas ?
3- pour la recharge du parc en 48v les 2 orions doivent être réglé sur quelle tension exactement? 27.6v ?
Merci de vos conseils
I have the following situation: I made a camper with a new housebattery, 300A lithium. I wanted to charge it with the engine of the car, so I bought the victron orion-TR 12/12 30A (360W isolated). I connected the car battery with the orion but it does not seem to work. Have I bought the wrong product? Or am I missing something?
My Orion Smart-Tr DC-DC makes loud and weird noise when the output starts, both the charge mode and power supply mode. See video.
This can't be normal? What could cause this, or what should I do?
Background: the Orion Smart-Tr 12/24 DC-DC in a camper van, charging the leisure battery (24V) from car battery (12V). Leisure battery also has other charging options (solar + Victron Skylla-IP44), and everything works well.
Edit: When it's on, I get 10-15 A current going out as seen and confirmed by the leisure battery BMS. So the unit seems to work, but I don't dare to use it in its current state.
I have the 24/12-20 non isolated converter and there seems to be no info on its protections if it has any. Other units mention if they are temp/over current/short circuit/ reverse polarity protected but the two documents for these units mention nothing.
Also there is no mention of fuse size for inlet and outlet, I know i can calculate this but other products mention fuse size and further more my unit has a 20a fuse on the unit but no mention of if its for inlet protection for the unit or outlet protection? Or maybe reverse polarity protection?
Can they be paralleled?
All victron products seem to have detailed info and specs but these units just have basic voltage and current spec.
Site isolé, 3 panneaux 120wc, régulateur et convertisseur vectron
Les leds des lampes restent très légèrement allumés, même en position "éteindre" des interrupteurs. 7-8 volts mesurés.
Borne terre du convertisseur reliée à la terre.
Circuit alimente : un routeur 4G/wifi, la régulation d'un petit chauffe eau au gaz, et des lampes leds.
Je ne comprends pas ce phénomène. Auriez vous des pistes ?
(on Sailboat, all batteries LifePO4) 48v main bank and need to run 12v boat loads (mainly low amps but intermittent high amp(windlass ect). I have a spare 12v 100ah battery capable of 2c continous max discharge. I'm just unsure of how to wire this...
My thoughts so far are let the 12v battery handle all 12v loads and charge battery with victron Orion 48/12 20?
I was going to get two 48/12 20's for redundancy but I'd rather not buy 5 or 6
of the things when I have a more than capable 12v battery sitting idle.
Orion-Tr Smart 24/12-20A (240W) Isolated DC-DC converter: External Fuses
I am confused about external fuses required in a system with the above device.
The spec shows 25Amp maximum current under nominal operating voltage and 50Amp short circuit on the 12V output channel.
But the fuse advice in the manual is for 30 amps on the 24V channel and 60 amps on the 12V channel - surely these are too high?
I am specifying the integration of this component and am looking at advising 25Amp (24 volt channel) and 50Amp (12 volt channel)
Any confirmation would be appreciated.
Hello, I am converting a hybrid Ford Custom van to a motorhome and I´m going to install an Orion Tr 48-12 30A isolated, since the alternator is 48V and the secondary battery that will power the services of the house will be 12V.
The system will be installed with a 16mm2 section cable (6awg)
I´m wondering which fuse to put in the 48V wiring harness. The length of this section will be 2 meters.
Either do I know if the 30A that the Orion handles are at 12V output, I understand that it is.
Can someone be so kind as to guide me a bit?
I want to charge my 24v lithium house bank on my boat from my 12v start battery. First I was thinking of Sterling b2b, but heard bad things about it (too hot, plastics melting, remote expensive etc).
So I was thinking about Orion Tr Smart, or normal Orion dc-dc converter . But then I realized that since my bank is HUGE they will blow up? Or will they limit themselves to their max output and work just fine? (or work fine but very hot)
Left is the DC to DC buck converter, which as I understand has a current limiter also.
Am I thinking right?
2nd, regardless of which one, if my lithiums has max charge at let's say 28,8 (14,4x2) I could set the output voltage at 28,4, and they would never overcharge?
The manual says the Orion 12/12-30 should be mounted vertical with wire connections at the bottom. My location really needs it upside down, with the wire connections at the top, to fit in my space best. Can the Orion be mounted upside down?
I've been using the non-smart version of the Orion 12/24 Non-isolated 10A Converter for alternator charging between my 12v vehicle system and my 24v house battery. I've been turning it on and off manually using a circuit breaker but would like to make this process automatic for obvious reasons and would like to do so in as elegant a fashion as possible. After researching, I decided that the Cyrix might be able to work in this situation. I wired it up as showing my attached diagram. However, once I started the vehicle and engaged the system, I did not getting any current.
One thing I did not do is connect the small negative terminal of the Cyrix, since I assumed that this was only necessary when using the "start assist" feature, which I am not using. Is this incorrect? Would this solve the problem, or is the cyrix simply not suitable for use with the Orion converter?
I have just purchased a Victron Energy DC-DC voltage converter, model Orion-Tr 24/48 280W 6A In. 16-35V, to power a video surveillance system on board my boat composed in total of 2 PoE switches and no. 8 IPCAMs.
The PoE switches (2x Teltonika TSW100) consume, at maximum load, 129 W each, at an input voltage of 44-57 VDC.
IP CAMs are instead rated 1-2A @ 12vdc.
Having already made all the wiring from the switches to the cameras (including PoE splitter 48-> 12vdc), I only have to power the Orion Tr, with a 24v power line coming from an available circuit breaker on the electrical panel.
Considering that to cover the distance between the Orion Tr and the circuit breaker I need an electrical cable with a length of approximately 15 meters, I would like to know which section of cable you recommend to use for the maximum load.
Thanks in advance to those who will be able to help me,
I just now helped a buddy update his Orion firmware to the latest. Consequently, we had updated VictronConnect to the latest also. (Android.) And then we BT'd our way to the Orion.
To my surprise, the VictronConnect home page for the Orion is surprisingly spartan. I request that Charging Current, in Amps, be shown in text. And a rotating current meter, styled like the meter used for the SmartSolar MPPTs watts, be added to the top of the page.
I am trying to find out if it is supported to have the output of two Orion-Tr isolated dc-dc converters 24/24-17A in series to provide 48V @ 17A output. The inputs are connected to the same 24V battery bank.
Their specifications mention that can be used in parallel, so, in theory, these two output voltage sources can be connected in series.
I know that I could have used two 48/48-8A in parallel but I don't want to change the whole setup from 24V to 48V.
Could you please let me know?
Thank you and regards,
It shouldn’t be this hard. I’m trying to get my head around the lock out values for my Orion Smart Isolated 12-12/30. I’m all set with all other values for my single FLA starter battery and 2 100AH Battle Born LFPs (In parallel) but the lock out values are till eluding my poor old brain. My starter battery has a resting value of 12.7-12.8V and goes up to 14V+ when the standard alternator (70A) is running. The parameter for charging the Battle Borns are set to their recommendations. So…..about those lock out values? Please help my poor old brain……Many, many thanks!
I want to use the Orion-TR to charge a LiFePo4 battery. An AGM battery serves as the source. Both are 48V systems. The output voltage of the Orion was set to 53V without load. If it is switched on, its not charging. If the output voltage manually is turned up, it starts to whine. The charging power is about 6A, but the BMV-700 at the AGM shows me about 20A of discharge. If the voltage is reduced, the whining stops. If the contact for charging is then opened and closed again, it will not charge again.
Does somebody any idea what kind of fault it could be? The manual is not helping.
I can't seem to find much information on the "buffer-charge a battery" feature. I'm assuming I can place a small Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) battery in parallel with the output + and common - and it can handle surge loads.
My question is, can I place a small 12v 20 AMP Hour battery to this? I'm guessing at a voltage setting of 13.2, it won't quickly charge the battery beyond it's 20% suggested limit. Any references to other materials regarding this would be helpful as I can't seem to find much. Thanks.
Hi, I have an Isolated Orion Tr Smart on my van and currently running a long positive 6awg wire from rear of the van to the alternator battery. Is it ok to ground both input and output to my chassis ground on the back of the van to prevent running a long negative wire to the front?
I have have a Victron Phoenix Smart IP43 (24v / 3 outlet) charger and wondered if I could connect an Orion 24/12-20 converter to one of the 3 x 24v outlets on the IP43 so that I could charge a 12v battery ? If so, would all of the smart charging features of the IP43 still be available ?
I want to have a common DC bus for powering a system. We already have a battery bank that has been working for a couple years and we are adding a new battery bank for expansion. Can I include an Isolated Orion DC-DC at each battery bank prior to the Bus to couple all the loads in one bus?