I might to know the answer already, but is there a possibility to get the battery temerature which is on the CAN-Bus into the Buck-Boost for low temperature cut off?
Thanks for your help
I am about to wire 2 24-12 70 DC-DC Converters in Parallel to power a Mover for a Caravan. But this 140Amps are basically just needed when I use the mover. For the rest of the time, 70Amps is already more than I need on the 12V section and I would like to save standby usage of 2 units when one is sufficient.
Can I install a switch to operate only one DC-DC converter, meaning just one converter is powered without getting problems with current going from the output of the powered converter to the one that is not powered?
Goal : I want to use my vehicle's indoor lights and ventilation during the night (3A 12V).
Setup : I currently have an independant solar and battery setup (700W solar 160AH of usable LiFePO4 battery)
Proposed solution : I think I could use an Orion-TR 12/12-9 converter taking power from my leisure battery and use the cigarette lighter circuit to charge the starter battery (15A fuse so everything seem alright). (The vehicule manufacturer said it's ok to let the car at "on" for long periods if I charge the battery.)
- Will it work?
- If I start the engine and the alternator is working at the same time as the converter, will it cause problem? (alternator and converter in parallel, seems ok from the manual from the possibility of paralleling multiple converters)
- Have I other solutions?
'05 Tundra, on Battery Tender, Smart Alternator, motor off, DC/DC setting on 'Charge' but steady green LED is on....when I open the breaker the green LED goes out and no 'output' then shows on the Vic Connect DC/DC screen....
2 possible meanings according to Victron....In 'Power Mode', it is not or in " 'float stage' [battery charged]".
Sooooo, what is happening?
Je n'ai plus de place pour un convertisseur DC DC. Est-il possible de le mettre en vertical mais incliné à 90 degrés (c'est-à-dire que les inscriptions en façade seraient inclinés à 90 degrés, les câbles seraient branchés sur le côté à droite au lieu de en-dessous). Est-ce qu'il y a une inclinaison à ne pas dépasser ?
I have finished my first revision of the campervan schematics, I am sure I would have forgotten a few items (such as the Dometic fridge, a shower solution etc), but this is the general installation. I wanted some people to check it over and to see if everything looks legit in terms of wiring etc. I suspect the solar wattage should be enough considering I have the DC-DC charger? Also in terms of AC power, can someone advise on a suitable distribution box that will work seamlessly with the Multiplus and the correct wire sizes for this also please?
Let me know if anything looks wrong. I plan to fit what I can and get it approved by an electrician.
I need to install a dc-dc charger in my trailer. I tow it behind my truck and use the truck's alternator to charge the trailer's battery en route (via an anderson plug). The dc-dc charger will be grounded to the trailer's LiFePO battery. the truck's battery is grounded to the body and frame. Should i install an isolated or non-isolated dc-dc charger?
Also, can i create a custom charge profile with both versions of the dc-dc charger?
I have a 12/12-30 dc to dc charger hooked up to my battery in my car. It has worked perfectly for three months but yesterday it started cutting out. It would work for 5 min and then input voltage would drop and it would turn off then input voltage would go back to 14.2v and it would turn on again and repeat doing this over and over again.
i have 6awg wire ran from the battery to the unit and from the unit to my house batteries, fused at the starter battery and the house battery through a lynx distributor. Not sure what the issue could be so any assistance would be helpful
J'ai remarqué que le câblage de mes 2 convertisseurs orions étaient particuliers.
Ils rechargent un parc de batterie en 48v.
1- Le Négatif du 24v ( sortie ) était branché sur le Negatif 12v ( entrée).. cela peut endommagé les batteries ?
2- que signifie isolated pour mon cas ?
3- pour la recharge du parc en 48v les 2 orions doivent être réglé sur quelle tension exactement? 27.6v ?
Merci de vos conseils
With 3 Orion-TR Smart 12/12V 30A's paralleled, how does communicating over Bluetooth work with selecting each device individually to set them up, do they appear as unique device names? Anything else required for 3 devices on the same 12V bus?
My Orion was working great until I changes the PIN, then lost it (I know my fault). Research showed the PKU is on the underside of the hardware device, let me tell you it is packed away with 4 screws in a difficult place to remove. Is there any other way, any way at all to find the PKU?
The Orion DC to DC has "Adjustable output voltage: can also be used as a battery charger".
I am going to assume that the Orion tr does not have a charge algorithm (bulk, absorption, float) like the Orion smart models since it only has one voltage that is adjusted. So, do you just set a bulk voltage? Would it reduce its amperage output based on what the battery is drawing and stop charging. Or is there (or should there be) another mechanism that prevents overcharging on a longer drive?
Hi the collective hive of information.
I am in the middle of commissioning an Orion TR Smart 12/12-30A on a VW T6 Camper van. The system doesn't seem to be triggering that often, and even after a couple of hours driving the Lithium batteries are not full.
All default settings have been used, but the start battery is regularly at 12.3-12.5v.
Are the default settings too aggressive, do they need to be dropped. If so any recomendations. I have done various searches and running second battery charging with Euro 6 engines seems to be a dark art with little information about what a good set of settings should be.
My instincts as opposed to science or knowledge is to:
Drop Input Voltage Lockout to be 12.1v / 12.3v. After starting the engine and idling the starter battery is regularly at 12.2v, so restarting shouldn't be an issue at 12.1v.
Setting Start Voltage to 13.2v
Setting Delayed start to 12.8v
Setting shutdown voltage to 12.7v
Any guidance, are these values too low?
Hello, is it possible to operate two converters in a parallel relay to provide a charging current of 80 amps in total, the system consists of a 100 ampere generator 24 volt system?
In this design example, a Sterling DC to DC converter is used to charge a lithium house bank with the Start battery as the "Source". So for example, if we are charging the Lithium Bank at 60Amps over 3hrs, how is this justified when a Start battery is not designed to provide high current over a long period of time?
I may need to reset my Orion smart TR 12/12 30 to the factory default to get the Bluetooth to let me log in. It wants a PUK, which I have on the box, but the unit doesn't take it and results in an ff00 error code as shown on my phone. Tried both upper and lower case letters, and double checked it a few times, It then wants to wait a while to try it again. I can see the device, from Bluetooth and I can connect to my other Victron devices just fine. This unit is new, and it will not let me in to set up the parameters at all. (BMV 712 works, MMPT 150-30 works, Victron inverter works, all on Bluetooth on the same phone).
The unit was just installed.
First time, trying to connect at all. (lots of other boats with Victron stuff near by, so i would not be surprised if someone tried to connect into it by mistake.)
I have the PUK on the box. That does not work.
Is there some other default password?
Does it have a factory reset button someplace to restore the default settings?
Is there some other solution to resolve this or does that error code mean the unit is defective?
My Orion Smart-Tr DC-DC makes loud and weird noise when the output starts, both the charge mode and power supply mode. See video.
This can't be normal? What could cause this, or what should I do?
Background: the Orion Smart-Tr 12/24 DC-DC in a camper van, charging the leisure battery (24V) from car battery (12V). Leisure battery also has other charging options (solar + Victron Skylla-IP44), and everything works well.
Edit: When it's on, I get 10-15 A current going out as seen and confirmed by the leisure battery BMS. So the unit seems to work, but I don't dare to use it in its current state.
Anyone know the biggest Wire that the size Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC Charger Isolated could take?
i Have gauge 2Awg... Will that fix?
Since my question keeps getting ignored by victron, Getting deleted or not read correctly and answered with the manual for the totally different smart converter i will ask AGAIN.
I have been asking and searching for months now for these answers.
1. What is the 20amp fuse on the unit for? Inlet/outlet/reverse polarity protection?
2. All the other victron converters have a detailed manual stating if they have over current/temp/short circuit/reverse polarity protection and if they can be paralleled together but this unit has no mention of these features. Does it have them?
3. While i can calculate the fuse size needed for the inlet and outlet there is no mention of what fuse size to use unlike all other victron products, I want to check and make sure i use the correct size and allow for any potential inrush current or whatnot as some converters i have used in the past called for much larger fusing then you would think is needed.
I find it odd that all other vicon products have in depth manuals and details but this converter has only basic volt/current/efficiency specs listed and thats it.
Is there an end all be all guide to doing two Orion TR Smart DC to DC 12|12 30 in parallel?
Current setup consists of 1 charger, but when on the phone with Nomadic Cooling they mentioned a few issues with the electrical system. The first one being instead of using the Victron Manual recommended 6 AWG I should be using 1/0.
However I'd like to add another charger into the mix to and curious on best wiring and fusing options.
My first thought of wiring it would be run a single wire from the battery to a 2 stud bus bar and then branch it to each of the chargers. Is this the best idea?
To fuse this I figure a 100 amp fuse on the main cable and then two 60 amp fuses on the split cables?
Please let me know your thoughts.
I installed a TS800 in my Sprinter (2011) but it's not working.
I followed the installation schedule and everything and when I connect my laptop to the TS800 it says that I have an output voltage of 14.5V and 2.5A but my BMV712 monitor says that I'm not charging...
What can be the problem?
Today, we see many vehicles with second alternators that can be used to charge your coach/rv batteries while driving. This is great to augment what solar can provide to keep the LiFePo4 batteries topped off.
The vehicle I have is 120 amps on the alternator.
Is there a way to limit the current from the alternator going into the inverter?
Is this a software setting?
Seems like you wouldn't want to push the alternator too hard to charge the batteries.
I want to use two Orion-TR 48-12-30 isolated DC-DC converters wired in series to float charge a 24V AGM bank from a 48V LiFePO4 bank. In the future I want to use these to provide 12v and some 24v from a 48V system, otherwise I would parallel 48-24-16 converters which would operate more efficiently. Will this work?
I believe I have everything setup properly and I am seeing a good input voltage for the charger to "turn on" but it is not happening. I have attached screen shots and would love some assistance to get this working.
Hope someone may be able to shed some light on this one.
So I am using an Victron 12-12-18a isolated DC to DC charger.
This is how I have wired it :
- Positive from starter battery to input positive on Victron
- Negative from earth point under seat to negative input on Victron
- Positive output of Victron to positive of leisure battery
- Negative output of Victron to negative of leisure battery
Then from the leisure battery :
- Positive to the positive of a 12 way 12v distribution board
- Negative from rear earth stud (drivers side rear quarter) to negative of 12 way 12v distribution board
The issue :
- When on a camp site for 2 or 3 days on mains hook up (there is a battery charger under the seat, charging the leisure battery), the starter battery is losing voltage to the point where I can't start the van ??
Is this being caused by the DC to DC wiring / vsr or maybe something else.
Your help would be much appreciated - I am completely lost !
Our inverter won’t turn on, we’ve been on the road for less than a week, it was working fine and then it suddenly died. We tested the connection to the DC, the fuse is good, it’s a 400amp fuse.
The data cables are connected, the light on the external BMS went from blue to red last night. We have 2 smart lithium batteries 200amp and a Victron VE bms and Oroin buckboost 100amp
PLEASE HELP. Is there any victron experts out there?
Hello, if I have a 20amp DC input and use a Victron DC-DC converter 12v to 24v, will the out put be 10amp, as the amps will halve as the current is converted from 12v to 24v?
If that is correct, can I purchase a 10amp DC to DC converter where the input is 20amp and the Output 10amp? Or are the converters sized from the Input current?
Thank you for your help
I am installing an Orion IP67 24-12 20Amp (240w) in my ambulance. The manual has straightforward instructions, but when I turn on the switch for the 24v battery the 15amp fuse on the 24v side blows instantly. Am I missing anything? Is this just a defective unit? I've verified the battery voltage is within parameters (26.8v). I tested the resistance of all the leads and they show 0.2 ohms resistance to every other wire.
I understand from Wakespeed that Victron will soon support their alternator regulator via canbus. Is this true and if so, when would this happen?