I have the following setup to charge my Smart Lithium Batteries while driving my van:
Now, during winter, the batteries are regularly too cold to charge and Smart Lynx BMS shows "Not allowed to charge".
Usually, I check the situation before I start the van and keep the BMS in Standby mode if Victron Connect App for the batteries shows low temp alarm (i.e. main contactor is open, so batteries are disconnected).
Recently, I had the BMS in operation while parking so the contactor was closed, and when I turned on the engine and the Buck Boost switched through for charging, the BMS opened the contactor due to "Not allowed to charge", thus disconnecting the batteries AND, as charge voltage still reaches the Distributor, all my DC-appliances still work while driving (e.g. lights, USB-chargers and the audio system.)
My questions are the following:
1) Are there any reasons to not use the buck-boost & BMS-auto-disconnect at low battery temps in the way explained above while driving?
2) If this should not be used in that way (according to answer with some reasons under 1)...), there seem to be several ways to prevent the Buck Boost from becoming operational in such situations e.g. not using vibration sensor but Pin 1 with e.g. input for the ATC-signal from the BMS. In the "help-text" in TSConfig point 50 states "Attention, when using pin 1 as an input, connect a 1k-10k resistor in series.
Thanks for reply and explanations. If a resistor is needed on Pin1, it would be also helpful with a link where to purchase an applicable such (I do not find "range"-specific resistors and only such that are intended for circuitboard welding).
[image]if the orion is in current limitation, i.e. the load at the output is so high that it has to be limited, then it cannot be switched on via the remote. The LED turns on, but the output does not go on. You have to switch the remote first and then switch on the load.
when the orion is in the current limit, it makes a very unpleasant loud noise.
i would like to use the orion to charge a battery, i just sketched it very simply.
I'd like to be able to charge one lifepo4 battery (that may be at a 75% SoC) from a second lifepo4 battery (that may be at 50% SoC). So the battery with the lower voltage will be providing energy to the other battery.
I believe the Orion Tr Smart may be able to do this, but only if I disable Engine Shutdown Detection - is that correct? Any other non-default settings needed?
Could the Orion Tr (the non "Smart" version) also do this? If so, does it need non-default settings / programming to do so?
Is there a different Victron product that I should be looking at?
I'm wanting to know if it's possible or a good ideal to add another Out line to an existing setup in order to charge another battery bank?
I am looking to install a Victron system on my RV that will be using a third-party DC-DC charger to charge 48v house batteries from the vehicle's 12v alternator. If I were to connect this charger through a dedicated BMV battery monitor (with a second one for the system's DC loads), is there any way to have one show up as an "alternator" input on the CCGX display screen?
I know I could connect it through the BMV-700 and presumably just have the CCGX show it as power flowing from the "DC loads" box to the battery. My primary concern is ease-of-use for the end user, so I would greatly appreciate any way to configure thte CCGX for this display.
I have a campervan currently which has a Ring RSCDC30 battery charger installed. Unfortunately the unit failed last week and I'm looking for a replacement. I was disappointed that the unit failed shortly after its one year warranty expired. As a result, I'm looking to replace it with Victron components.
At present my circuit is as follows: Van battery w/ smart alternator connected to the input of the Ring unit. Similarly, I have a 150W solar panel connected to the solar input of the Ring unit also. The output of the Ring unit is connected to 2x 115Ah 12V batteries connected in parallel and from the batteries I have outputs to a 12V fuse panel and Victron Phoenix 12/375 inverter.
Can someone advise what would be my best options to replicate the above set up using a Victron battery charger & MPPT solar controller? Thanks.
I'd like to use the Orion TR48V-12V 30A converter/charger to keep a bank of 3x12V series AGM boat house batteries at charge. Solar will charge the 48V (2x24V) lithium source. The manual for the Orion states that it is "overload and short circuit proof". Does 'overload proof' mean that the Orion will stop charging when the 12V bank is at 100%? Then automatically resume charging when there is a load on the 12V bank? Finally is there a better equipment choice to accomplish this? The Smart Orion can do it, but only up to a 24V input, unless I missed the 48V model. Thanks.
We have a Sprinter RV with a Buck Boost. The Buck Boost in and out lights remain green and purple when the engine is off. From what I’ve read, the Buck Boost is suppose to turn off when the engine is turned off; which to me means the lights should not be illuminated. Am I correct? If so, is there anything we can do to get the Buck Boost to turn off when the engine is turned off?
I am trying to figure out if and how I can achieve the same/similar setup as with a Redarc BCDC1225D or ctek D250SA (SE); i.e. I want to charge a service battery in the car with the alternator and a solar panel, potentially both providing power at the same time (solar panel on the roof while driving). Obviously, the starter and service battery should be disconnected when the engine is not running to avoid the starter battery from running flat.
I am looking at the SmartSolar MPPT 75/xx and the Orion-TR Smart DC-DC Charger. Using each standalone would not be a problem but how would I need to connect the two units and the battery together?
(Secondary question would be to install battery sensor and have battery sensitive charging).
The reason for trying to work with VE products is the Bluetooth capability which I consider very valuable and quite unique in this area.
I recently installed a pair of Orion-tr smart dc-dc chargers to charge my lithium bank and they were operational during my first test run. (They weren't quite as powerful as I expected, but were working).
Because the RV is primarily parked (at this time of year), I often connect a NOCO Genius 12V charger to keep the vehicle batteries from going dead.
Between the install / first test and a drive today, the 12V charger was connected for a couple weeks.
I did not isolate (breakers) the Orions during this time and wonder if there is any way that the starter battery charger could have killed the Orions? I would have expected that they would either accept the charge or reject it, but not that they could be damaged.
They are completely unresponsive. No changing. No blue tooth. No visibility on the app.
Does anyone have any advice on what the issue is and / or if there is a way to reset them?
Hello, friends. Need advice.
I have an motorhome with "Victron Energy Orion-Tr Smart 12/12V 30A DC-DC Isolated Charger" to charge my house batteries. But sometimes i will need to feed the starting battery a few amps from the house battery (listening to radio with engine off, using other accessories).
Is there a way for my isolated charger to short input and output? If not, would it be ok to short it manually though the switch?
I have an orion 24/12 20 Amps DC/DC Conveter on the load output of an mppt 75/15 (victron) on a 24V system. Both devices are well functionning separetely but not together. Is that a normal thing ?
In the above mentionned setting i get an output voltage varying between 3 to 4 volts instead of 12.3V if i plug the Orion straight on the batteries.
I have 450AH of AGM lead acid on my boat. I am looking to add a 310AH LiFePo4 battery to the house bank. I am mounting 450w of solar.
From my understanding, LiFePo4 will take a complete charge much faster than the AGM. To me it makes the most sense to connect the solar to the LiFePo4 using my Smart 100/50 solar charge controller; and then to put a a 12/12 30A DC-DC charger from the LiFePo4 to charge the AGM. This would keep the AGM at float charge most of the time and I can keep the LiFePo4 between 20-80% SoC. In this situation the AGM would still service the house loads. From my understanding the AGM can deal with heavier loads than my LiFePo4.
My question is: Is there a reason more people don't do this? Is this a bad idea?
Most info that I can find online has an alternator charging a lead acid bank and a DC-DC charger topping up a LiFePo4 bank which is used as the house battery.
I have an Orion 24/12-25 supplying my NMEA 2000 busses and, via a switch, the low-energy coil of solenoid operated isolator. The steady state operating load on the output is around 6A.
Yesterday, I was operating the isolator when the Orion died. Both internal 15A fuses had blown. I replaced the fuses and put a meter across the input terminals which revealed they were now on a dead short,
The solenoid is diode suppressed against reverse EMF, but a scope across the coil shows that there is still some leakage of reverse voltage when the coil operates.
My question is: should I view my failure as just "one of those things" or is this Orion device vulnerable to transients on its outputs which could cause this mode of failure?
Orion Smart DC to DC 12/30 Non isolated in 2016 Sprinter with smart alternator.
All wired up and seems to be working OK with the h-pin (right side) wired to a fuse that's only live when the engine is switched on and the black loop removed.
It takes a few seconds after starting the engine to start charging the leisure battery and seems to behave exactly the same as when the black loop was initially in with no h-pin wiring.
Is the switch definitely working?
I'm converting my car in a camping car. I bought the Orion DC DC converter to recharge some LiFePO4 batteries I have. But because I use this car also as commuter car, I don't bring with me, always my battery pack with me. The first question is: Does the Orion suffer if the is no battery service connected? And the second question is: If it suffers, to avoid it, could I put a on/off switch between L and H to turn it off when the BS is disconnected, and leaving automatic engine shutdown detection (when switcher is ON)
I have finished my first revision of the campervan schematics, I am sure I would have forgotten a few items (such as the Dometic fridge, a shower solution etc), but this is the general installation. I wanted some people to check it over and to see if everything looks legit in terms of wiring etc. I suspect the solar wattage should be enough considering I have the DC-DC charger? Also in terms of AC power, can someone advise on a suitable distribution box that will work seamlessly with the Multiplus and the correct wire sizes for this also please?
Let me know if anything looks wrong. I plan to fit what I can and get it approved by an electrician.
I have a question please. Is it safe to connect two isolated converters in series to achieve -/+12V dual power supply? Is it safe to connect the negative converter output terminal of the first converter to the positive output of the second converter? The outputs are isolated from the input.
The product is Victron Orion-Tr 48/12-30A (360W) Isolated DC-DC converter
I've got a very particular DIY Nissan Leaf 24v battery configuration and their operational voltage is about 28-33v and I'd love to get more out of my Victron 100/50 12/24 Buck Boost Converter instead of only being able to charge them to 30v (buck boost limit).
-- I do also have a 900W solar array and MPPT which provides the desired 33v charge but during the winter it is not enough to keep the 8kWh battery above 50%.
If I run the buck boost output through a step up converter then through an MPPT do you think it's possible these components will work in a way which will allow me to output the desired 33v charge output via the MPPT?
- in this configuration, will the buck boost endlessly provide output of 50 amps if programmed at 30v output charge in it's software?
1x Victron 100/50a 12/24v Buck Boost Converter
3x Victron 24/48v 8.5a DC to DC Converter (to achieve approx 50a @ 24v)
1x Victron 150/60 MPPT SCC
As I understand it, because the Orion DC DC Converters are isolated and do not have a current path between the input and output, as long as I set the buck boost to below 30v (it's max) it should not be able to see any voltage higher than the input side of the Orions, and therefor should continue to output a constant desired voltage <30v.
Pictures below to get an idea of what this will look like. I'll be doing a test wire and config before the final mounting of the board happens.
This is an "upgrade" to my system that is already working perfectly and runs a 240v mini split AC, 120v induction cooktop and water heater, as well as all 12v devices.
If this does not end up working I will be moving in the Safiery Scotty device direction.
I'm really enjoying playing around with this very unique system, it's been a fantastic learning experience, much more learning to be done for this humble DIYer.
Thanks in advance!
Update -- I wired everything up and was able to get the buck boost to send current through the Orions and MPPT however it keeps cycling after about 20 seconds of current.
Example is 20 seconds current then off for 20 seconds then back on for 20 seconds etc...
Also, 1 of the Orions is about 10 degrees hotter than the others. All of the output and input voltages are the same, or at least within 0.1v.
I'm enjoying the experiment and would love to know if anyone has best practices for having 3x Orion 24/48 dc dc converters wired/configured to share the load equally.
Below is screenshot of all (or some) of the converters and mppt (Alternator’s MPPT) working up to 700+W (desired is closer to 1200W though, which the 3 Orions should be able to provide, unless the inefficiencies stack and then perhaps I’m at limit)
I can hear the converters "tick" when they switch on and they aren't quite in synchrony, I imagine this causes problems with load sharing or even one or 2 of them not activating.
Can I wire them in some way with the remote switch to all come on at the same time?
Should I wire them all directly to one another instead of using bus bars? i.e. wire positive to positive and neg to neg?
I raised the output voltage via the rotary switch on one of the devices from base of 40v to about 42v to start various tests and the buck boost is now constantly delivering around 20 amps current at 30v.
I also have been testing temperature differences and it seems that whichever Orion is set to the highest output voltage, it is the unit that "does more of the work" (gets the hottest).
I ended the test for the night by maxing out the output voltage dial for all 3 Orions to about 60v, which led to still consistent current but a higher level that any previous tests.
The tests concluded with an output of 885W. I'd still love to figure out how to utilize the full current of the 50a buck boost though. (1200+W ***update***if the efficiency losses dont stack)
A DC current clamp meter shows the buck boost outputting about 45 amps but the MPPT after the 3x Orions only outputting about 30a.
More testing to come tomorrow.
Update *** i’ve got the system now operating at a consistent level with an output between 700-800W.
Does each Orion converter have a 11% efficiency loss which would be 33% cumulative loss which is why I’m seeing about a 30%-40% drop in output across the system?
I'm running 3 of these 24/48 8.5a Orion Converter's and a dedicated 150/60 MPPT (for alternator charging) after my 1200W Victron Buck Boost Converter. The Orion's + MPPT output is about 700-800W+. This would appear to be a result of their 11% individual efficiency losses stacking.
Is this in fact how they work? Thanks!
***this is an experimental system necessary to achieve the 33v charging output needed for my high 24v (28-33v operational voltage) Nissan Leaf battery system.
I'll be continuing testing and checking shared load via temperature and dc current clamp metering.
If I decide to go another direction it will be with a Safiery Scotty 3000W device.
Is there any way the dc to dc charger is weakening my car battery. It's a new battery and I have to jump it everyday
I have purchased a Smart DC-DC 12/24 15 amp charger for use on a small boat.
The alternator on the 60HP outboard puts out maximum 21A.
The start battery will be a 75AH Li.
The plan is to charge a 24V 200AH Li battery (used to power a trolling motor) while the engine is running.
I am concerned about overheating the alternator when the motor is running at idle and producing less amperage than the rating of the DC-DC charger.
If the alternator is only producing 5A at idle but the 24V trolling motor battery is discharged and the charger is trying to pull its maximum of 15A, do I have a potential problem?
If I use a Lead-Acid start battery do I avoid potential problems?
Thanks for your help.
no answers found and such an important point.
The VSR (voltage sensing relay) worked fine with the old 3 stage dcdc, 12-30V input, but with the Orion it switches on/off several times before staying on and Orion can charge.
Can we use VSRs with the Orions or do we have to run cable to ignition?
Do they all switch the load on at ones that the voltage drop on the incoming side lets the VSR open up? Could someone from Victron answer that to all off us please?
I want to connect two Orion's in parallel to charge twice as quickly when driving. However, I've read that in order to do this you need to connect a 'hot wire' from the ignition to manually turn the units on, as using the voltage sensing can cause issues if there's a slight lag between the two units, causing one to not turn on.
I understand how to connect the two units in parallel, but how do I connect to the ignition to act as a switch? I have a Mercedes Sprinter, not even sure where to start - thanks in advance! I presume there's no other way to charge quicker than 30A? I have a Euro 6 engine so can't use a standard VSR.
I have an Orion 12|24-15 Non Iso DC-DC charger. Its input is a 12v starter battery on a Sprinter and the output is a 24v Li-Ion pack and they share a common ground.
I have been seeing strange charging issues and over-voltage alarms. On closer inspection the voltage shown in the app for the Orion doesn't match what I measure at its terminals with a meter.
These 2 images show the exact same time but a difference of 0.35v. Its been worse than this on other occasions and reads both under and over randomly.
Has anyone seen this kind of issue before on a DC/DC? Its on the latest FW, could it be a fault in the unit or my setup?
All Bluetooth devices have the latest firmware available in the Victron App.
As I am measuring at the terminals I dont expect cable or connector losses to be an issue here. I also have a good bit of other Victron kit on the same 24v side which all agree with the multi-meter consistently under < .1v difference . All the kit is connected on the 24v Side via a Lynx distribution unit with cable well within its ratings. Connection tightness double checked. As mentioned earlier sometimes the voltage in the DC-DC app reads over sometimes under and it seems to move around day to day.
Heres a comparison of readings:
|Orion 12|24 - 15 (Output)||24.2|
|MPPT Smart Solar||23.88|
|Orion 24|12 - 30 (Input)||23.9|
Any advice or questions welcome. Many Thanks!
Despite doing everything including down loading drivers, I cannot access the TSConfig, someone else had the same issue and came on the forum inJuly this year but got no replies. Please help!
hi, I am charging 400Ah lifepo4 through an Orion 24/12-70 none isolated. When I connect the load side or when the electronic battery isolator switches the Orions input 24V on with 12V connected, it makes a sound like something would melt away inside. Is this normal? No smell and it works so far.
Also the 24V input gets pulled down so much that the electronic battery isolator before the Orions 24V input disconnects and reconnects a few times. After a minute or so it stays connected and the Orion starts charging. Previously I had a Redarc DCBC 40A with 12-30V input and that one did not irritate the isolator switch.
Does anybody has the same experiences with battery isolators inline with the Orions and that sound?
I'd like to run 12V loads in a motorhome from a 24V battery bank, and the loads should not exceed 70A. Hence I could use an Orion IP67 24/12-100, or an Orion 24/12-70 (Non-isolated, High power)... Which should I choose, and why? (Basically, how are they different?)
I want to charge a 140 Wh gel battery with an Orion 24-12/25A from a 24V system. Would direct be OK or should I use a MPPT charger in between to regulate? What voltage is best to set the Orion to? Anything else I should consider? Thanks