Hi, I changed from the bmv 712 to the Lynx Shunt. Now I have the problem, that the Lynx Shunt is not counting or showing the ah charged to the battery as the bmv and I guess the smart shunt does. It only shows the drawn ah from the battery, but not vice versa. Why is that dear Victron? Why can the shunt not show the ah charged to the battery? Is there any was to find out the charged ah to the battery? Thanks
i hope you can help me.
We bought several hundred Orion-TR 12/12-9A for a large project in order to be able to charge LiFePO4 batteries (Jubatec with BMS) (12.8V / 6AH) on the vehicle on-board network in a galvanically isolated manner.
The prototype with an Orion-TR12/12-9A, which was delivered in mid-2021, worked very well, but the devices from the final large delivery from late 2021-early 2022 only ramp up their output after applying the input voltage when the battery the output has been briefly disconnected even though the output LED is green. Apparently the device can no longer cope with the external voltage of the battery. The set output voltage of the Orion is irrelevant. We have noticed that the new shipment now has E4 10R-064720 approval, which the prototype device does not have. Maybe there is a connection here?
SN of one of the non-functioning devices: HQ2136QDPPQ.
Working prototype SN: HQ2107RLXXG.
The batteries have already been tested, that's not the reason.
We now have several hundred Orion-TR12/12-9A, which are not suitable for their purpose.
Anyone an idea? Victron support?
I am building a 24V setup very similar to the victron van install (https://community.victronenergy.com/articles/15035/victron-vw-van-electrics-install-schematic-drawing.html) on a old Mercedes Benz truck (no smart alternator).
Instead of the Buck Boost, I will use the new Orion-Tr Smart 24/24-17A (400W) Isolated DC-DC charger behind a Battery Protect.
My negative bus bar and the enclosure of the MultiPlus are grounded to the chassis using 4mm2 wire.
The manual of the Orion-Tr Smart (https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Manual-Orion-Tr-Smart-Charger-Isolated-EN-NL-FR-DE-ES-SE-IT.pdf) states on page 4:
Use the remote function to enable and disable the converter remotely with the remote on/off connector or using the
VictronConnect app. Typical use cases include a user operated
hard wired switch and automatic control by for example a Battery
Management System. If the minus of the service battery is not at
the same potential as the minus of the alternator or starter battery
an isolated remote on/off cable between the BMS and the on/off
port is required, see chapter 4.4 for details."
This should not be the case in a vehicle, but the on page 10, Figure 4:
there is an isolated remote on/off cable shown.
So here are my questions:
My Cerbo shuts down due to a probable sudden and very short (msec) voltage dip when switching on other circuits. Can I put a Orion-Tr 12/12-9 in front of the Cerbo to smooth out these dips?
Hi Forum. This boat has 48V battery bank with some 12V loads that draw more than 30A. I was thinking of a Victron DC-DC converter, but doesn't it make more sense to use a DC battery charger to ensure that an absorption charge happens when necessary ? I'm curious what others recommend or do in such a situation ?
I have just installed my Orion in my caravan. My intension was to charge the caravan battery from my car while driving.
Input comes from the car, and output is connected to the caravan battery. Remote is jumped.
The converter is set to an output of 14,4 unloaded as per the manual.
When i hook up the car the ON/OFF led is lit. No current flows to the battery.
The only way i can start the Orion is to disconnect the and reconnect the caravan battery while the car is connected..
Can someone please tell me what I'm doing wrong?
Thank's in advance.
It's been some time now that I'm trying to find a solution for my next van installation.
I first came with this diagram with 2 victron 12V LifePo4 (24v): https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/65042/wiring-diagram-for-a-van-install-with-multiplus-ii.html
Now I would like to use the Pylontech 48 V batteries and a Multiplus II 48V/3000 for efficiency, price, form factor, ...
I searched for a 48V buck/boost around 50/100Amps and found nothing affordable and easily available. I do not want to install a second 48V alternator... At least not at first, I have a strong 250A 12V alternator.
The basic schematic would be as follow:
- A "small" inverter under the hood would allow to feed the Multiplus at the rear of the van without needing big wires (and losses).
- The inverter would be activated with a D+ signal to avoid discharging the start battery
- The installation would be very simple
- I could easily "tune" the amps drawn from the inverter with the AC input current limiter of the Multiplus
Is it possible ? do you see any problems with this kind of setup ?
Basic diagram without solar, Cerbo GX etc etc etc.
im designing my sprinter conversion and stumbled across this fairly simple diagram, im wondering what the purpose of the 12/12v converter is off the 12 v starting battery, is this just being uses as a lV Disco?
Hey, I have a 48v Lifepo4 bank with a Multiplus 2 inv/charger. I also have a 12v lead acid bank, charged from the 48v bank with an Orion TR isolated 48/12 DC-DC. What I need help with is how to use the Cerbo GX relay to be able to turn the Orion on/off through the Cerbo GX remote console. How do I wire those together to get that function? cheers,
I have a small outboard boat with 2 batteries one for starting and a house battery for electronbics. in the dc dc converter it says its not for charging. 90% of the time ill be charging my house battery in the garage. a small part of the time, im thinking the DC DC converter can recharge the house battery when the boat is running. I guess i would need to pick a single voltage for AGM house batteries.
any issues with doing this?
Hi the collective hive of information.
I am in the middle of commissioning an Orion TR Smart 12/12-30A on a VW T6 Camper van. The system doesn't seem to be triggering that often, and even after a couple of hours driving the Lithium batteries are not full.
All default settings have been used, but the start battery is regularly at 12.3-12.5v.
Are the default settings too aggressive, do they need to be dropped. If so any recomendations. I have done various searches and running second battery charging with Euro 6 engines seems to be a dark art with little information about what a good set of settings should be.
My instincts as opposed to science or knowledge is to:
Drop Input Voltage Lockout to be 12.1v / 12.3v. After starting the engine and idling the starter battery is regularly at 12.2v, so restarting shouldn't be an issue at 12.1v.
Setting Start Voltage to 13.2v
Setting Delayed start to 12.8v
Setting shutdown voltage to 12.7v
Any guidance, are these values too low?
At what altitude m.a.s.l. may an Orion TR 48V-24V be installed. Our customer wants to install it at 4000m altitude. Is this possible?
Made some more DCDC 24-12-24V Lithium boxes to a customer. The products are as usual, but now the newly purchased Orion-Tr 24/12-9 won't charge the 20ah Superpack...
Has the hardware or whatever changed? It works if a put a generic load on the output terminals of the Orion-Tr but if its connected to a battery (With or Without a load) its doing absolutely nothing.
Some are blue and some black around terminals, how do i know which i’ll receive Is the colour based on voltage or amperage?
Severe OCD my terminals must be black to match solar controller.
Ich habe mir einen Orion -TR DC-DC 12v-12V 30 A gekauft ohne Smart. Unten ist eine Schraube womit ich die ausgangs Spannung verstellen kann. Mein Frage wäre . Welche Ausgang Spannung muss ich am Wandler einstellen wenn die Lichtmaschine Strom erzeugt über die Fahrzeugbatterie . Dann auf meine Lifepo 4 . Sehe keine Abschaltung . Die Aufbaubatterie darf ja nur 14,2 V bekommen als Ladeschlußspannung . Es geht sich nur um die Spannung damit er auch abschaltet wenn ich wärend der Fahrt die Batterien voll habe . Danke für eure hilfe . Lg