I fairly recently installed a Multiplus II 5kVa 48 system (including Venus GX), connected to 2 x Hubble AM-2 5.5kHw lithium batteries. System runs as purely backup system for load shedding purposes.
This issue that has arisen is that the inverter randomly cuts the output voltage to the loads for a couple of second.
The latest instance happened after a blackout (load shedding). The system took
over and returned seamlessly, and roughly a hour after, the output voltage dipped for a couple of seconds.
-Inverter and GX has latest firmware installed
-System is not overloaded
-AES is not enabled
-Battery bank is CAN bus connected to the GX, via its own logging device (Cloudlink\Riot)
I have checked settings multiple times, and compared to other installations.
Has anybody had similar problem, or have advice as to remedy?
I have just purchased all the parts for a Victron branded solar setup on my motorhome.
Im using two Ampere Time 200ah LiFePO4 batteries in paralell for my bank. What should I set the absorption, float and bulk to when I set up my MultiPlus 3000VA 12v inverter?
I've read a few similar posts and they all sound very forign to me. This is my first solar setup.
If you dont mind... please explain to me like im 5.
I am examining the systems architecture of a quattro 48/15000/200-100/100 VE.Bus 48V 15000W VA 200A Inverter Charger, Coupled to a NiFe (nickel iron) battery bank, comprising of 1.2v x 40 cells. Fundamentally, they are a relatively safe, extremely robust solution, that can stand up to DOD's that would finish Li banks, that leaves other battery technologies in their wake, as long as, you are prepared for the top up requirements.
I am looking for someone that has attempted this solution. generally, the 4 brands of NiFe cells, have a specification as follows, with small variation;
Chemical System - Nickel Iron (NiFe)
Battery Type - Rechargable Deep Cycle, Flooded with Alkaline Electrolyte Electrolyte Chemistry Potassium Hydroxide (KOH) And Lithium Hydroxide (LiOH)
Electrolyte Refresh Rate Suggested every 7-10 years to sustain maximum performance Terminal Poles, Cell-To-Cell Busbars Nickel-Plated Steel, Tinned Copper Cell Container Translucent, Corrosion-Free Polypropylene or ABS Engineering Plastic Vents Flame-Arresting Flip-Top Vents
Nominal Voltage -1.2 Volts (per cell)
Charging Voltage - 1.65 Volts (per cell)
Efficiency - 80% Cycle Life 11,000 Cycles At 80% Depth Of Discharge
Float Life / Shelf Life - 30 Years / 85 Years
Optimum Charge & Discharge Current C/4
Minimum Charging Current -C/20
Maximum Continuous Charging Current C/2
Maximum Pulsed Charging Current 1C
Maximum Discharge Current C/2
Self-Discharge Rate 1% per day
Operating Temperature -30⁰ C To +60⁰ C (-22⁰ F To +140⁰ F)
I would like to hear from people that have done a implementation, of a quattro and NiFe cells, to understand where the stumbling block might be.
Hi, I'm currently in the process of building a 3kwp pv system. Im not sure how many batteries I will need. The batteries need to be either 12v or 24v if possible. Thankyou.
I'm looking for a good solution to add battery to my installation. But right now , only one way ... Change my Se5K for an hybrid ( bit expensive ...)
So, a friend tell me Victron should be available with my Se5K .
My installation : Se5K solard edge 3 phase
20 panel 395 hyundai + optimiser
I'm looking for a battery 5-10kw ( I have VE ) .
Someone have an idea ?
I am a new to Solar power and have purchased some equipment and I'm trying to figure out the correct battery. I have brought 3 x 175W Victron panels, a phoenix 500/12 inverter and charge controller 150/35. I have also brought a 100ah Lithium Iron battery.
I want to know if I can buy a 2nd battery and connect them in parallel to get 200ah at 12v.
Is there anything I need to consider? Will the charge controller and inverter support this?
I currently have a single string of AGM batteries wired for 48 V. 4x12 200ah. Runs to the Lynx dist in the usual fashion with a Smart Shunt at the batteries before the Lynx. I want to add a second string of identical bats for 400ah. I have an extra connection in the Lynx. Should I run the second string to the Lynx and make my parallel connection for the two strings there? Also, would I need a second Smart Shunt for the second string since its an ESS system? What is best way to do this?
Hello, how to understand the "It is essential the negative battery terminal between the units is always connected. A fuse or circuit breaker is not allowed" in the Multi II Manual? The interconnection between the units is meant? The BMS in error case disconnects the minus pole of the battery by N-MOSFETs, there is no way to do it in other way. And the DC terminals of the Multis see no difference (except of the stray capacitance) which pole is disconnected. Is it correct to earth the plus pole of the battery and insert the fuse and the DC switch into the minus line which can be interrupted by the BMS anyway? Thanks.
I'm a newbie with a new installation in East Africa (Victron Multiplus 5KVa, Smart Solar 250/100, Venus Cerbo GX, 10 solar panels of 345W and one Weco 4k4 battery). It's fully off-grid.
There seems to be a few issues with the setup and I was hoping some here would know how to fix it, or let me know if there's nothing wrong. Any help would be really welcome, thanks!!
I had a professional install this but there seems to be mistakes in their setup (e.g. initially there was no power usage showing on the dashboard) and so I want to check that everything is in order.
1 - The charging lights on the 4k4 Weco battery always indicate that it's discharged, even fully charged:
2 - The Cerbo dashboard is showing the battery discharging when it's actually charging and vice-versa, like here:
3 - At night, the system (fridge mostly) takes 0.05KWh of power on average for around 11-12h. It starts discharging from 6pm (until then it's 99% full) and charging from 6am. But it looses 1kWh during the night and the battery is at 70% charge in then morning (6am) when the sun comes back. I'm guessing my math is wrong but can't make sense of this.
4 - Should the DVCC be activated (it is now)? I couldn't find out which settings should be used.
5 - Bonus question: how bad is it to discharge the battery to 30-40% on some nights? Should I get a second one? What happens if it goes to 0%?
Thanks a lot!!
Mon questionnement est certainement basique mais je rame encore un peu sur le fonctionnement de mon installation. Ma maison n'est pas reliée au réseau électrique, elle est complètement autonome. Les anciens propriétaires ont fait l'installation photovoltaïque (en 2015/2016?). 2 PV 250w, 2 régulateurs MPPT 100/15, 4 batteries AGM BTL12/200 (qui ont déjà 5 ou 6 ans mais très bien entretenues), un onduleur Multiplus Compact 24v/1200va/25a, et un contrôleur de charge. Au départ, chaque PV était branché sur un régulateur. J'ai rajouté deux PV 280w car la production était trop insuffisante pour les longues périodes nuageuses. Et j'ai aussi un petit groupe électrogène de 2kw. J'ai mis les PV en série branchés par deux à un régulateur par série (les deux anciens sur un régulateur et les deux nouveaux sur l'autre, soit 2×250w et 2×280w). Alors oui, les régulateurs sont sous-dimensionnés pour absorber toute l'énergie produite par les panneaux mais le vendeur des derniers PV m'a dit que ça ne gênait pas le fonctionnement, l'installation n'était simplement pas optimisée. Il me faut redimensionner tout ça mais je n'en suis pas encore là (d'ailleurs tous vos conseils pour dimensionner une installation sont les bienvenus). Et jusqu'ici tout fonctionne. Mais ce weekend, les fusibles des régulateurs m'ont fait faux-bon. L'un a grillé, et l'autre était en partie mal connecté. Je n'ai pas établi la cause, je n'étais pas là ce weekend mais une erreur de manipulation de la part des personnes présentes pourraient bien être l'origine. Toujours est-il que personne ne s'est rendu compte que les fusibles étaient grillés. Les régulateurs n'ont pas rechargés les batteries qui se sont déchargées progressivement (le frigo est branché en permanence) jusqu'à ce que l'onduleur se mette en sécurité pour éviter une décharge profonde. En rentrant dimanche soir, je réalise qu'il n'y a plus de courant, les batteries sont à 10v, je trouve la panne, je règle le problème, je fais tourner le groupe 2h pour recharger un minimum vu qu'il fait nuit et que le frigo va redémarrer. Lundi, pas de soleil, les PV rechargent très peu, le frigo consomme toujours, hier, pas de soleil, les batteries rechargent très peu, le frigo consomme toujours, en rentrant hier soir : pas de courant, onduleur en sécu, les batteries sont aux alentours de 7,5v! Il est trop tard pour démarrer le groupe (j'ai des voisins). Ce matin, nuageux, les PV produisent peu, je démarre le groupe. Maintenant j'essaye de comprendre.
1) Est-ce que lorsque le groupe recharge, les panneaux produisent toujours ? Les deux modes de productions sont-ils en simultanés ou est-ce que le groupe prend le relais et les panneaux "tournent dans le vide"?
2) À partir de tous les éléments de puissance décrits plus hauts, combien de temps dois-je faire tourner le groupe pour recharger les batteries ? Quelqu'un peut-il m'expliquer quel est le calcul ?
3) Les batteries sont descendus à 7,5v, elles ont passé la nuit comme ça (environ 8h). C'est des batteries AGM. Quel impact sur leur durée de vie ? Dois-je envisager de les changer rapidement ? À quel point peuvent-elles supporter ce genre de décharge profonde (sachant que c'est la première fois) ?
Merci pour vos réponses. Je ne suis pas hyper au point sur toute cette technologie mais j'essaie de comprendre et je progresse doucement.
System details :
I'm running an ESS system and noticed that the startup of large AC loads are being powered from the battery / inverter when on scheduled charge. The scenario is as follows:
Under these conditions, my understanding is that the system should be relying on the grid to power the loads (with minor background losses). What I'm seeing is that the batteries are used to support the startup of large loads while the grid contribution is slowly ramped up over a few seconds. In the screenshot below, we were using a clothes iron that switched on and off frequently. This resulted in large loads being pulled from the battery each time the element switched on and corresponding charges pushed to the battery when the load switched off. Any way to change the behaviour and get the system to rely on the grid in this scenrio?
Here is less extreme example where a kettle is switched on and pulls 14A from the battery during a scheduled charge period:
Hi, does it work if i start with an US3000, that i later add an US2000 to the system....or an US2000 requires an US2000 and they cannot be mixed up?
Is it reasonable to think I can run a 13,500 btu air conditioner from a 12/3000/120 and 6 battleborn lithium in parallel @ 12v? (and of course nothing else at the same time)
After a couple of years acquiring stuff, I have just finished setting up my whole infrastructure in my RV (yah me!). As mentioned I have (6) 12v lithium in parallel, 5' of 4/0 between the battery output and the inverter. I tested the air conditioner and the fan started, but as soon as the compressor started it shut down. I looked at the alarms and saw I had previously set with the VE.Config, the DC low shutoff at 11.5 per a blog on the battleborn website. I lowered that to 11.0 and was able to get the compressor to come on for about 30 seconds before it hit the 11v threshold.
My batteries are fully charged and show 14.6v on the cerbo gx screen (pictured below) before I start the air conditioner. When the condenser turns on the AC loads show 1100'ish to 1300'ish watts, the battery bank shows -1300'ishW and dips to 13.1v and up to -123 amps. Within a short time something else happens that then draws more and it shows -126 amps and the inverter shuts down.
I read on the battleborn specs that their batteries...
"allows for 100 Amps continuous, 200 Amp surge for 30 seconds, and 1/2 second surge for loads over 200 Amp"
Before the air conditioner is turned on:
This is about the highest surge I've seen during compressor startup:
This is when it shuts down:
According to the numbers from the bottom left blue battery icon (the shunt) I have not surpassed these values, but could there be a huge drop on the 5 feet of 4/0 to the inverter?
If so what is the solution? I'm not sure I can fit another 400amp fuse and 500amp shutoff switch to duplex my cables in my battery bank box. I thought 4/0 would handle this very well over 5 feet.
the battery out, pos and neg are on opposite ends of the bank to draw from the whole bank
pos->400amp fuse->500amp cutoff switch->lynx->inverter
I am a complete newbie to solar. I've just setup a victron smartsolar mppt 100 50 controller with 2 x 175w renogy flexible panels in series. I'm charging 4 x Exide ea1050 batteries. I'm lost as to what battery profile I should be using for this. Currently it's set to agm spiral cell (I believe these batteries are sealed lead acid?) and absorption is set to 14.7, float 13.8 and equalization 16.5. Do these settings look correct?
I want to put a double pole MCB between a MultiPlus-II 48/3000/35-32 and 3 48V Pylontech batteries.
Pylontech recommends 25A for each Package and it supports up to 100A of discharge for each Package.
Victron states in manual:
-You must have the minimum number of battery modules to supply the inverters startup inrush surge currents that charge the capacitors when the inverter is first connected, this occurs prior to any loads being connected. For this Inverter, 2 Batteries are minimum.
-Victron recommends a 125A MCB between battery and Inverter, since its Peak power is 5500Watt (3000 AC Load + 1500 feeding in shore power)
We dont want to feed in the shore power, so only ac loads left. 3000 W / 48 V = 62,5 A. So an 80A MCB should be fine, but maybe the Inverter wants to pull more current? Maybe the stated 125A due to the startup inrush current?
I found 3 MCBs (80A, 100A, 125A) from the same series from ABB
I really would like to use an 80Amp MCB, so that the Inverter does not pull much more than the calculated 62,5 Amps.
Do you think the 80Amp MCB will "handle" the startup inrush current?
Does the MCB could have a minimum operating Voltage(Datasheet not found)? Is 48V fine?
Is the rated Ultimate Short-Circuit Breaking Capacity (Icu):(800 V DC) 5 kA enough for a 7,2kWh battery system?
If you have remommendations for other MCBs, please share.