Hi - apologies is this has been asked before but I couldn’t find an answer that I could fathom.
Basically my smart alternator runs as low as 12v when the vehicle battery is full charged - so the engine detection system shuts the charger down so no feed to the leisure battery. The only work around has been to have the full vehicle lights on to load the alternator.
I would like to wire up the override option.
I get that I need a piggy back fuse on the ignition side to provide a switched live.
I am unsure how to wire this into the green remote on/off piggy on the Orion. It looks like I simply make an additional connection of my new switched live feed to L terminal on the green - leaving the existing link in place.
Can anyone confirm if this is correct.
Car: 2016 Volvo V60 (presume I have a smart alternator)
7-pin is dealer installed
Brake controller is 3rd party installed, although a VERY reputable local chain (Eckharts)
Victron equipment & setup:
Battleborn 100Ah LiFePO4 12v
BMV-712 with temp sensor
SmartSolar MPPT 150/40 (solar panels are ground mount, 400W of '12v' panels)
Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-18 Isolated
63a dual position non-polarity breaker between battery and bus-bars
40a dual position breaker (to isolate for connect/disconnect) between solar incoming and SmartSolar
25a dual position breaker between 7-pin 12v power and input on Orion-Tr
I've had the SmartSolar & BMV-712 working just fine, today I went to hook up the Orion to the junction box on my 7-pin from the tow vehicle, After reading the docs, I isolated my battery from everything else (bus bars, distribution fuses, Orion/SmartSolar), connected my car and turned it on, then went into the trailer and flipped the breaker from the car to the Orion.
Powered up as I'd expect, I hooked up through the Victron app, changed the PIN, set it to Charger mode and put in my battery specs. Made sure everything was saved, looked good, and then flipped the battery breaker. The Orion seemed to see the battery, but wouldn't charge even though the measured voltage (13.NNv if I recall correctly) was well above the 12.5v disconnect threshold.
I start checking the SmartSolar and BMV-712, those seem fine. Go to switch back to the Orion, but I can't connect in the Victron app, and it appears to be off! Very strange. I measure the voltage across the 7-pin side of the breaker, get a weird reading, like 2-3v or something. Very strange.
I go through a few rounds of turning off the car, turning it on, the Orion powers up and I can connect to it, once I see it saying Bulk Charging, but then switches to not-charging, and then disappears again.
So, could this be a bad Orion? Could the brake controller folks installed something wrong? I have one of these cheapo 7-pin tester, and says the 12v is connected fine.
Thoughts? More troubleshooting I can do?
I have had a good look on here and various other places and seem to have come up short about how I should be wiring the Orion-Tr 12/12-30 Non isolated, MPPT 75/15 and the BMV 712 together.
I understand how to wire each of the components individually - as per the diagrams they each provide, but combining them seems to have me questioning myself. I have drawn the attached picture of how I believe it should all go together so the BMV can monitor everything correctly but I am unsure if I have the wiring diagram correct. Can someone please vet this and let me know if I have missed something/got it wrong and it wont work.
Thanks for the help and potentially helping others at the same time :)
On my yacht i have just fitted an Orion Smart 12/12-30 isolated B2B charger charging a new 150AH lithium battery with a built in BMS for my Domestic power. This is fed by a new 100Ah AGM start battery supplied by a regular 100 Amp alternator. The problem I have is that the Orion charger enters Absoprtion charge too soon (3-5amps) with the Lithium battery at about 55% when it should still be in bulk mode. I have ensured that the charge voltages are as per specification for the battery (14.4v charge, 13.8v float), the charger is close to the start and domestic batteries (50cm) and the cabling is oversized 6mm2 I also have a new Victron Smart Solar 20 amp charger that is connected to the same battery which is in bulk (engine off) mode while the Orion was in Absorption mode. I also have a new victron 30amp 240v mains charger which was bulk charging 20-30amps I would like the Orion to Bulk charge to at least 80%, is the smart solar confusing the Orion? can yo help?
En un Booster Orión tr smart 12/12-18a.
de cuantos seran los fusibles de proteccion?
miEn el de 30a se instalan de 60a,interpretó que en uno de 18a debería de ser de 30a o de 40?
I want to install the Orion TR Smart 12 | 12-18 isolated not because it is isolated but because an 18A non isolated version is not available. I am planning to use it to charge my start FLA battery from a LiFePO4 house bank when needed. My question is can the two negatives be combined as shown in the attached drawing.
We have a 2021 Mercedes Sprinter and are installing two Orion TR Smart DC-DC Charger Non-Isolated in Parallel to give us more charge capacity from the van's alternator. I've read several post about how to install these devices but it is still unclear what is the proper way to connect the chargers to the van.
Is it best to connect directly to the alternator, the starter battery, or the fuse location under the drivers seat? Of course, all of these scenarios would be fused. The best information I've found is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=01F4QDVJUq0&t=3163s but this is for a singe charger.
What type and size are this Orion’s internal fuses?
Have this model feeding a 200 AH Lithium battery with Smart BMS. Input is about 12.7v, Output is set to 14.6. When it starts, input is about 50A (600W). Given Ohm's law, the output is somewhere around 40A, less losses in the voltage boost components.
Question: Is it normal to be passing that much power if rated at 30A output?
Due to the issue of burning out the alternator or blowing it up when the BMS disconencts the LiFePo4 battery, I have purchased these DC-DC chargers to charge LiFePo4 batteries from the alternator on my boat.
In the manual the charging setup shows the following as the connection diagram.
My alternators do not have a "starter battery" as they are intended soley for charging the house battery bank which is a 24V ( as opposed to the starter batteries which are 12V and are charged by te 12V alternators )
Therefore is the following connection ok ? i.e. ommitting the "starter battery" from the configuration ? Does the DC-DC charger use the starter battery as a energy dump when / if the BMS disconencts the LiFePo4 battery ?
Thank you your response.
We just bought the Orion Tr smart 12/12 30 non isolated to charge our LiFePo battery while driving. We connected it this way: +IN is directly connected to the plus on the starter battery. GRND is connected to our smart shunt minus. The remote on/off (wire bridge) is removed as said in the user manual. The LiFePo isn´t connected yet because the Orion Tr smart can´t get any signal. Means the LED isn´t blinking or on.
What could be the reason for this?
Thanks for your help.
[image]I have a new Orion tr smart 12/12-18 connected between a lead acid type charger and a new lifepo4 battery. The green on/off led is flashing and the app is saying “charging disabled “ and flashes every 5 seconds “remote input disabled”. The remote link is in place and if I remove it, it stops flashing and shows a steady “remote input disabled “. Should I just return the unit as faulty or am I missing something?
So, can I set the bulk time limit to a very low number like one minute? And then does the unit go back to a time delay to start again? Or does it just check for low voltage and begin again?
So, could I trick the Orion to only charging one minute every four minutes to protect my alternators? Otherwise, feel like Orions are putting my small 33A alternators at risk.
Orion TR Smart 12/24-15
Thanks for any reply. I had a thread on current limiting as well, but did not get a good answer on this idea.
Hi all new to the forum, i have a 300w solar panel on my camper roof with a smart solar mppt 100/30 and an orion dc to dc 12/12-30 non isolated connected with a smart alternator system (sprinter 2017). All was working fine for a few weeks and during the recent hot weather I decided to have a look on the app to see what the figures were like with all that sunshine. Solar setup was fine but no lights were working on the orion where normally i would have the power light and the bluetooth light. The icon on the app was black and not accessible. I tried to uninstall the orion and reinstall it but now the app cannot find it. I checked and double checked all connections and fuses but all ok. I read on here to disconnect the starter battery input for a while to reset it but still nothing. If anybody has had the same problem and managed to get it resolved please share.
I have a Orion-Tr 12/12-Volt 30 amp 360-Watt DC-DC Charger, Non-Isolated connected to a truck. Historically, I haven't had any issues with it. Recently however, the amperage seems to be cycling on and off in short intervals when the truck is on and the charger is connected. The displayed charge state (bulk) doesn't change when connected via Bluetooth, and the truck alternator voltage doesn't seem to fluctuate either. It doesn't appear to be impacted by battery state of charge.
The other end of the system contains a MultiPlus II, 600Ah of Battleborn batteries, a SmartShunt, and 3x SmartSolar controllers.
Does anyone have any idea as to why this might be occurring? Screenshot of the cycling from the SmartShunt attached.