HELLO, I have a question about the lifepo4 ultimatron battery and the use of the DC-DC orion charge
I looked at the warning history and there are a lot of overvoltage cells
and I charge it with orion and sometimes with mppt smartsolar sun according to these settings
I measured 14.4V directly on the battery with the engine started
it also happens to me that even if I drive for maybe 2-3 hours, the battery shows 100%, but the Orion is still in the Bulk charge phase and is still charging with a current of 30A
can you advise me where I am doing wrong in the settings? I would hate to damage the battery.
Thank you very much. Jiři
I would like to employ an Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC to charge two different battery types. I have Lead Acid and AGM batteries in my motor home.
I have found a switch that will allow me to switch the input/output of the Orion-Tr Smart. I believe I understand that I will have to change the charge algorithm when changing charge source/load. I have included a drawing to explain what I'm trying to accomplish. When motoring I'd like to have my alternator charging both coach and chassic batteries. While parked I'd like to have solar charging both battery banks, Can anyone critique my idea?
Hi everyone !
I am writing to you to know if some people have already connected an isolated Orion tr smart to a vehicle alternator without a starter battery? and if it worked and charged proprely?
I explain the vehicle contains 2 alternators, the second alternator was mounted specifically to take advantage of charging a large auxiliary lithium park (mechanical assembly + belt, no electrical wiring).
The excitation of the alternator is given by the starter battery.
I have a problem concerning the output voltage of the alternator which is 8.7V at no load (belt tightened everything is ok). The wiring is quite classical (+ and - input on + and - alternator). The negatives, alternator housing, are well connected to the truck chassis, R=1 ohm. Then I tried to connect to the input of the Orion and there my multimeter shows me 32 V DC (and the Victron application too)!
I wonder if the alternator has a defect because according to me the alternator is supposed to provide a stable voltage and therefore the Orion should work quite normally. I wanted to know if some people have already done this type of assembly with an isolated Orion on an alternator without starting battery and if it worked.
I would like to specify that this is not the first Orion I have installed.
Thank you all for your help.
Sorry for my english i'm not native.
Summary of Issue:
Not always getting charge to my batteries, when I do, the VictronConnect app doesn't reflect the charging state or battery levels.
Details of Issue:
I have a truck camper on my 2018 Ford F250 with the heavy duty alternator and auxiliary upfitter switches. I've got everything running off of upfitter/AUX switch 1 which is rated for 25amps. Cabling is marine-grade 10/2 all the way to the Orion Smart 20amp DC-DC charge controller. I'm consistently always getting 14.7V input at the Charge Controller, but have different results/scenarios on the output voltage:
I have just installed for a customer a Victron Orion Tr Smart 12/12 30A Charger to an RV.
We are charging 2 x 240ah LiFeP04 batteries in parallel.
There is also a Victron Smart Solar 100/30 Charge Controller connected in parallel.
The problem is that the Orion will not bulk charge at all, if I isolate the solar output and the Orion is left to do the bulk of the work.
I have checked the inputs from the vehicle and ensured the Orion will turn on to charge at the desired voltages. However it starts to charge - then displays a sudden drop in input voltage and stops charging. I have tried 2 different vehicles and monitored their voltage to confirm it is not actually dropping below the threshold.
If I turn on the Solar Charger it (the Solar Charger) immediately starts bulk charging (approx. 22A).
When the Solar Charger is doing the bulk charge the Orion will start working in absorption mode. But if left to do the bulk charge will keep cycling on and off.
It has the latest firmware V1.06.
Reading the threads it seems many are still having similar issues with this Orion Charger. Can you please advise how to rectify it?
I look forward to your response.
Hey there, as I commented on the blog post,
"I'm curious if future versions will have VE.Direct or some sort of integration like that with GX devices? Currently, it seems that the MPPT and MultiPlus are able to coordinate their total charge rate with external BMS via the GX devices. But it seems that the Orion-Tr does not participate in this?"
I'm wondering if there's a way to integrate the Orion-Tr Smart chargers with the CCGX. In particular, as far as I understand, GX devices can coordinate with external BMS via CANBus to determine the charging parameters of a battery. It seems that the Victron MPPT and Victron MultiPlus can respect these limits via VE.Direct and VE.Bus respectively, which is great and a big reason why I bought this BMS and the suite of Victron product.
Now I'm considering purchasing Orion-Tr Smart chargers, however I noticed that they don't have any VE.Direct connectivity, or any other VE connectivity aside from the Bluetooth one. Is something like VE.Direct, VE.Bus or VE.Can planned? Will Orion-Tr Smart chargers integrate with GX devices?
Maybe I’m missing something here and I’m hoping somebody can help. I have the Orion smart charger 12/12 30 connected to charge my 170 ah lithium battery. I have noticed that the charger seemed to be tuning down the output to approximately 15 amps after running for 15-20 minutes and I assumed this was because of the over temperature protection (the unit was quite hot). Now when monitoring the output via my BMV712 I’m not seeing any current coming through at all. I’ve checked my fuses/breakers they’re fine. When I open the app it tells me the charger is in the bulk stage and charging yet I see no current coming to my lithium battery anymore. Am I missing something here. Could I have a defective unit? It was working since I installed it until now.
Instead of using a contact between the two pins, I am using a positive voltage to one of the pins As described in the manual. It describes to use the battery voltage for control but also something like anything below 3.2V is considered “off”. I am an EE but wonder is it’s okay to use 24V for a 12-24V converter? And for a 12-12V model?
I'm considering connecting my lead acid starter battery (100 ah) to my agm house bank (400 ah) with a Victron Orion tr smart 12/30, charge the starter battery with the alternator (non regulated 60 amp Hitachi) and the house bank indirectly through the orion when engine battery is full.
I am trying to properly connect devices within the same container. Hopefully I have given enough information to answer the question.
I the following:
The goal is to move this box between different cars and a camper. The only time there would be a combination of power inputs is during driving and Camping in the camper.
Alternator connection to DC2DC is 2AWG high strand pure copper welding cable the car with the longest wiring connection to the rear is 18 feet (36 for both + and -) It uses a 50a Anderson connector which will attach to a short set of cables (6 awg) 3 foot (6 foot both + and -) into the container through another set of Anderson connections. (Less than 1' on the inside of the container) to the DC2DC charger.
Total length of wires (10awg) including all the 2S 2P is 30 feet. up and into the PV input on the MPPT.
The inverter will be able to pull power from that same main bus connection (using 8 awg cable between the main bus and inverter input). While all three devices potentially charge. However, the inverter output is separate from any of the DC bus or connections and will run through a GFCI outlet to two corresponding 15-amp outlets (max output for both at the same time controlled with a small Bussmann breaker)
Main bus + connection:
According to the BMS specs on the battery It can charge or discharge at 200A. I do not plan for any discharge or charge of more than 100a for any length of time. This is attached to a 200ah lithium (LifePO4) home build battery I picked up from a friend who built it. (It has ~600 cycles on it so it’s tested well and still basically new)
The battery will be within 5 feet of the box (cables that connect it will be 4awg so max distance from battery to the main bus connection is 20 feet including the short runs to any loads.)
Between the main bus and the battery is a 100amp ANL fuse. (Located inside the container)
All lines off the main bus connecting the MPPT, DC2DC, and IP22 are 10 awg high stranded pure copper.
Max DC load draw will be 45 amps based on how I have it fused from a blue sea 100-amp 6 circuit blade and no single fuse is over 15 amps. This will get its power from the main power bus bar
Assuming all wires and fuses are properly sized for the power:
Can I allow MPPT battery output, DC2DC output and Shore IP22 to send output to the same bus without harming the devices or the battery? The bus is a 250a bus and would have all 4 devices connected. (This includes the inverter's input / draw connection and a connection to the BlueSea so DC power could also draw a load from the main bus)
(If my wire sizing or fuse sizing is off, you can comment on that, but my main question is related to the bus and having all devices connected to the same one internally)
I have a lithium battery, Victrom BMV and Victron Isolated DC to DC charger (12-30) on our truck camper. When the engine is running, the Victron App for the charger shows an input voltage that will trigger the charger to kick on. The output voltage from the charger reads 13.5-14v. I've confirmed these values with the Victron App and a multimeter. But there is no current flowing to the battery (which is not fully charged). The Victron BMV shows no current flowing into the battery, and I've confirmed that with a multimeter. So do I have a faulty DC to DC charger or am I missing something in the set up. The distributor (Dragonfly Energy in Reno) has been no help - they have not been answering their phones or returning voicemail messages. Any help appreciated.
I have purchased a Victron 250/100-Tr controller. My battery info states:
- Absorption Voltage ** 14.70
- Float Voltage 13.50
- Equalization Voltage 16.20
My concern is the equalization voltage. I would like to power directly from the battery, a 12V Ham radio, its maximum voltage allowed is 15V. I am concerned the 16.2V seen during the equalization function will damage the radio. I want to have this function working as the controller sees fit.
I see this DC-DC converter Victron Energy Orion-Tr IP43 12/12-Volt 30 amp 360-Watt DC-DC Converter, Isolated And this smaller converter Victron Energy Orion-Tr IP43 12/12-Volt 18 amp 220-Watt DC-DC Converter
It looks like those IP43 DC-DC converters will accept those voltages and still give me a fixed DC output ideal for the radio. I need to know the waveform they generates and if it is a RFI noisemaker. If it's pulsed DC it won't work, & the same if it spews hash from the switching power supply. I've asked the company but this was ignored. The tech support where I bought the 250/100-Tr Converter has no idea.
If anyone has one of these units and a scope, I'd appreciate knowing what is going on regarding the purity of the output. The same question if someone has an Amateur or AM radio close-by to one of these in operation, I'd like to know about the RFI noticed, or not noticed. I hate to order something only to have to return it because it is something I should have avoided in the first place but couldn't tell till I get it on my bench.
I am looking to gather the data in my Home Assistant Dashboard for the Orion-TR smart 12-12 30AD c-DC I know that the data is fed with the Bluetooth but Victron don't give us the possibility to connect to I was thinking adding an additional Shut at the output of the DC-DC with the Ve-cable
- It this feasible?
- Will it disturb the overall electrical system?
- If yes, will the additional shut be displayed on the RaspberryPI 7 inch screen?
- If yes, will it be possible the get the information via the MQQT mapping
My Orion Tr Smart 12/12-30 Charger runs hot, and the output current folds back considerably. Anyone else with this problem? When cold, it will output 33A. When hot, it will fold back to 26A or less. Parts of the case may exceed 134dg F, in a cool (60dg F) environment. By adding a 80CFM fan above the fins, the case temperature is lowered by 20 degrees F, and the unit will continuosly output 30A. It would appear that the heat sink is undersized. Comments?
I wish to place a switch between B+ and Pin H to turn on charging as needed but turn off when not.