During the day, our solar is producing an EXCESS generation of up to 20kW per day (around 30 -40kW per day). Our grid meter is not so smart, so we feed it back into the grid for free at the moment. Our total power usage on average per day is about 26kW of which we use (get charged for ) on average 12Kw overnight when there is no solar production, so, basically, a low constant usage powering fridges, freezer, lights, TV, kid's devices etc. If we use the ducted AC, I see that it consumes between 4.5 and 7.4kW per hour extra when it is powered on.
There is one household circuit that supplies all of the above appliances except the A/C.
I have access to about 30kW of new AGM batteries configured @ 48V.
So, what would the best way be to..
1. Take that circuit off-line and attach to a Victron Multiplus 2 or Quattro
2. Attach the Victron to the excess electricity that the solar produced during the day, charging the battery bank.
3. Use the battery bank for night time power for the above appliances, thus eliminating my 12kW night time consumption.
Thanks in advance
I have two Victron Super Cycle AGM 100Ah batteries in my boat and to Charge them I use Victron Bluesmart IP22 Charger. Can I replace one of the batteries with LiFePo4 battery and use the Lithium setting in the charger? Will it ruin the AGM battery? I have the setup as stationary in my boat so that I only have to plug in the powe cord when I arrive home.
I am planning a battery upgrade for my new 4x4 which comes factory with a single 105ah AGM battery.
Due to space constraints I am planning to add around 100ah of LIFEPO4 prismatic cells to beef up the capacity.
All the loads i want to run are already wired off the AGM battery and I don't want to move all the circuits over to the lithium battery. The vehicle has a very complicated electrical system that I would like to leave as standard as possible.
So the plan is to have the lithium charging through a DC/DC while the engine is running, then when the engine is off the DC/DC will disconnect and the lithium will be used to charge the AGM as my camping loads slowly deplete it. In theory the AGM will stay at 100% SOC until the lithium is discharged. Then the lithium cuts out and I am discharging from the AGM.
I think this will work but welcome any comments, I'm a little out of my depth here.
The current plan is to use another, smaller DC/DC charger from the lithium into the AGM. Although looking at the voltage curves I wonder if I could save some money by switching to a cheaper DC/DC converter set at 12.8v, or even just a Victron Smart Battery Protect. With the battery protect only, the AGM should see a float charge of 13.8v from the full lithium, dropping down to 12.8v as it discharges. Then, I guess, they both both discharge together until the BMS cuts the lithium out at 12.0v. By which time the AGM is empty anyway and I need to run the engine or stop drawing power.
Is this reasonable? Or should I stick with a second DC/DC charger?
Last week I bought an agm solar battery from leroy Marlin.
Name solarix, brand Xunzel.
Is leroy Marlin brand for all solar accessories.
I will use it to support my agm victronenergy, either separately or in parallel as needed.
It has charging and internal resistance characteristics very similar to the victronenergy and this is good for parallel.
In fact, measuring with a schunt the current was divided almost perfectly (in relation to the capacity).
What do you think of these batteries and this brand?
They are medium quality batteries ... Not at the level of agm rolls or troyan, but not bad either.
The price range is about that of victronenergy agm batteries.
The data sheet is very interesting:
It performs worse in cold weather than victronenergy.
It has performances similar to victronenergy in terms of capacity in relation to the C rate, but victronenergy is slightly higher.
But it has performances of duration in cycles and in years much superior to the agm victronenergy.
100% DOD: unknown victronenergy, xunzel 400 cycles.
80% DOD: victronenergy 400 cycles, xunzel 600 cycles.
50% DOD: victronenergy 600 cycles, xunzel 900 cycles
30% DOD: victronenergy 1500 cycles, xunzel 1300 cycles.
10% DOD: unknown victronenergy, xunzel over 2000 cycles.
Standby use at 20 C°: victronenergy 7/10 years, xunzel 10/14 years.
Basically it appears that these xunzel agm have high DOD performance, similar to victron agm supercycle.
Victronenergy deep cycle AGM years or cycle duration is not exceptional for a solar battery at these price.
Here the two datasheets:
Serious question, please bear with me.
It seems that some boaters are supplementing tired AGM batteries with extra LiFePO4 batteries in parallel. My understanding is that this shouldn't be done. But I hear that many are pleased with the results.
Are there any gains?
Are there drawbacks?
Are they fooling themselves?
Are there any dangers involved?
[image]Hallo liebe community, ich möchte gerne die optimalen Batterieeinstellungen im smartsolar einstellen, werde aber nicht ganz schlau aus dem datenblatt vom Batterie hersteller -reichen die Daten aus ? Danke schon mal voraus
I have a 7.5kWp PV setup and want to install an ESS (not for profit, just for technical interest and fun). My end goal is to have a Multiplus and some pylontec batteries to supply my house over the night.
I have four deep cycle 12V 40Ah AGM batteries that are more or less new from an unrelated project. They are rated at 4-500 cycles at 75% discharge.
I was thinking to buy the Multiplus and use my spare batteries until they die (and switch to pylontec then).
Is it possible to use four of those batteries in series as an 48V pack with that low 40 Ah rating?
I am analyzing a self-consumption photovoltaic system that has two 12 V, 60 Ah deep discharge gel lead acid batteries, connected in series. The reference of these batteries is as follows: BAT412550104.
My idea is to model the behavior of this battery bank in Simulink, from Matlab. However, these batteries do not have defined characteristic curves by the manufacturer (at least that I know), and I believe that they cannot be obtained.
If I do not have the characteristic curves I have to assume the value of most of its parameters such as (according to the simulink lead acid battery model): battery response time, maximum capacity, cut-off voltage, fully charged voltage, rated current, internal resistance, voltage at rated capacity, voltage and exponential capacity.
Could someone give me indications of what values these parameters might take to guide me? The battery bank equivalent would be of a 24 V, 60 Ah battery, where I would guess that the rated current should be 12 A, but I am totally unaware of the value of parameters such as internal resistance.
Any help is welcome.
Thank you very much.
Looking for some advice please help. I have 2 systems.
1ste system in my Overlanding vehicle consist of:
150w solar panel fixed
MPPT BlueSolar charge regulator 75/15
Smart shunt with BT connected to VictronConnect App
82Ah Lead Acid battery (6months old) that runs mainly a 52l NL fridge and some lights
I often find that SoC in the morning will typically be at around 90% so lets say Cumm AH = -8Ah
I find that the system have the SoC back to 100% before lunch here on a typical autumn day with good sun
2nd system in my Off road caravan consist of:
150w foldable solar panel
MPPT BlueSolar charge regulator 75/15
BMV712 via VictronConnect App
2 x 102Ah Lead Acid Gel batteries (5years old)
Runs 12v water pump, some lights and a NL 80L Firdge Freezer
I typically find on the first morning that the SoC is above 92% and that I have a Cumm Ah used around (-11 to -14Ah (depending on use etc))
However, the same day I will see that the second system will bulk charge for a short period and then drop the current to <1A when there is little or no draw on the battery. This then results on the battery never recovering the full Consumed Ah, as the fridge freezer pulls at around 3.4 - 4A per cycle and never gets back to the 100% SoC. I did see hpowever after 2x days of very little charge due to rain and overcast conditions that the current pushed to 4 to 5A when the SoC was below or around 80%
Help somewhere I am missing a setting on the second system either with bulk / absorption etc settings? Is it the charge current or tail current that is wrong? Can I fix this via the BMV712 on the battery or must I have the dongle to do the changes on the Controller? Is it a case of the age of the batteries?
Bonjour, pour cette batterie AGM 90A BAT412800085 j'aimerais connaitre le courant de charge maximal qu'elle peut supporter, sachant que dans mon scénario je la charge simultanément avec un chargeur Orion TR Smart DC DC 12/18A, un panneau solaire 130W avec 6A de charge via le régulateur BlueSolar MPPT 75/10, ainsi qu'un chargeur secteur Blue Smart IP65s Charger 12/4A.
PS: sur la batterie il y a bien l'indication de 24A de courant initial, mais ce chiffre est bien le courant de charge maximal que la batterie peut supporter ?
I have always been told that nuts and bolts are assembled as follows: Bolt (set screw) with flat washer, through material and any other attachments, next flat washer, next spring washer, next nut. And so it was with Victron gel/agm batteries until recently. Now the set screw has two flat washers, one spring washer, fitted through battery terminal and then has a nut on it. So what you probably think, take it off and re-assemble in correct order. That’s what I thought, but the M8 set screw thread is very slightly bigger than the hole in the battery terminal. As the screw has been inserted from the battery side, it cannot be “bashed out”. I actually wonder how the manufacturers get the screw to fit at all.
Has it even been raised as an issue?
Recently I recabled all my solar system (I moved it somewhere else) and today I was looking at the system and the batteries were deeply bulged, hot on touch, and I would have expected them to explode.
The battery is a 48V 220Ah Victron AGM charged by two 150/35 MPPT chargers.
The current state of charge is 100% and the battery voltage is 52V once I cut all the breakers.
I expect the batteries to be dead now, but I need to know what caused this to avoid repeating the same mistake twice. Today is a sunny day and I expect that the MTTP overcharged the batteries. What I don't understand is why.
Could it be the battery wiring that induced a small resistance causing a voltage drop and causing the MPPT to think the battery voltage to be lower than actual?
There is also something fishy about the circuit breaker of the batteries. I still read just above 1V after the breaker when the breaker is on the OFF position. But I disconnected it and checked the resistance and it seemed to work correctly, also when ON, the breaker does not cause a voltage drop or anything. Perhaps there is a device on the other side of the breaker, a small capacity that causes this...
Also, now, the batteries are arranged a bit differently and there is less space around them. Could it be that they went too hot in their new environment and did not cope with that ? I arranged insulation around them but perhaps the insulated box is now too small and head dissipation could not happen correctly, is that enough to cause this kind of damage?
Is there a wiring diagram and components to use for building a boat installation with
1 AGM battery for bow thruster,
1 AGM battery for start battery,
approx 200 amp lithium,
2x 100w solar,
Inverter for coffe maker, and smaller AC stuff
All help appreciated. Tried to find some previous threads but could not find the set-up explained.
Recently installed a 75/15 with two 120 watt panels, all connected to 2 Varta AGM's in my vw california.
The standard battery setting suggests option 2, but that uses only 14,4V voor absorption?
When I look up the data from varta, they suggest charging with 14,8 V.
I also tested when I had the car in the garage on the mains (230v) what the internal charger would give, after a certain amount of time the voltage was already +14,5V.
Another test with the engine running showed the voltage exceeding >14,8V(14,9V)
So my questions is, is it okay for me to make a custom battery profile with 14,8V to charge and 13,8V for float? All the other variables don't seem to change much between the different pre configured settings. The only things that matter seem to be those two voltages?
Thanks in advance.
I'm replacing my MoHo leisure batteries with a pair of Yuasa L36-AGM. The manufacturers datasheet only tells me the technology deployed as Ca/Ca VRLA. My Victron MPPT 100/20 is set to 'Factory Default' - Gel Victron Deep Discharge (2).
As one of the last leisure batteries split open, I'm keen to get the settings right. But I have no decent information to base any decisions on.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks in advance