Goal : I want to use my vehicle's indoor lights and ventilation during the night (3A 12V).
Setup : I currently have an independant solar and battery setup (700W solar 160AH of usable LiFePO4 battery)
Proposed solution : I think I could use an Orion-TR 12/12-9 converter taking power from my leisure battery and use the cigarette lighter circuit to charge the starter battery (15A fuse so everything seem alright). (The vehicule manufacturer said it's ok to let the car at "on" for long periods if I charge the battery.)
- Will it work?
- If I start the engine and the alternator is working at the same time as the converter, will it cause problem? (alternator and converter in parallel, seems ok from the manual from the possibility of paralleling multiple converters)
- Have I other solutions?
I am replacing a defunct CBE CB516 charger in my motorhome with a new IP22 12/15(1) charger. The old charger has a small single core wire on a separate terminal as a NET feed. It is labelled +12v . It takes a signal to the motorhome control panel to show that the charger is 240v powered on. As the IP22 only has one +12v terminal ,would it be ok for me to put the small 'net' cable into the same + terminal? Worried about damaging the new charger? Also if the 240v is off would this way of connecting always show it as powered on?
Let me first provide our setup:
If I understand correctly, we have 16 amp shore power. But when I connect our boat to the shore power I can read on the Phoenix control panel the battery charge is often time >30A. I am very confused how this is possible and why the shore based 16 amp breaker is not tripping?
I notice when I turn down the charge control on the control panel to 30 ish % the display shows a charge of 12 A.
My question really is… how should I read the battery charge amperage on the control panel and relate it to the shore power? and what is the recommended setting of the charge current % given the shore power available?
Lets say that the boat uses about 5 amps when docked and not used (inverter on, fridge on, security camera on, MiFi router on).
Any update on VE.Smart networking for the Orion Smart Tr DC to DC chargers? I'll have an MPPT and two 30A DC to DC chargers and it would be excellent if they all knew each other on the same battery bank.
[moderator's note: edited to show "VE.Smart Networking" rather than "VE.Bus Networking"]
We have a multiplus 2 48/3000 connected to a BMZ ESS 7.0 48V Li-ion battery. The multiplus has 230V AC power supply and the battery supplies 54V DC, the MK-3 interface is connected to computer and the firmware has been upgraded, however when switching on the multiplus nothing happens. No diodes light up and the computer cant find the inverter.
Additionally we've connected a CCGX with RJ-45 to the multiplus and a VE.Bus to CAN Type B Cable is used to connect the ESS to the CCGX.
Since we can't get any communication up and running we're not able to proceed with the configuration. Perhaps something was set to not allow the multiplus to switch on due to connecting the CCGX to the poles of the BMZ battery for Power Supply. If so how could we reset the Multiplus II inverter to begin over following all the steps in the manual?
Thanks in advance. All insights are greatly appreciated :)
[image]I have an ip22 12/30 charging a pair of 100ah battle born lifepo4 batteries. It will charge for a couple minutes at 30amp but then drops to 18.2ish amps and stays there till absorption. I have tried the lipo preset and I have tried custom with the absorption voltage at 14.4 (per Battleborn) and turning off battery safe. I have tried it with and without my built-in RV converter adding 10amp of its own. What else am I missing that is causing it to drop down to 18amp from 30?
I have LiFePO4 battery cells which are all at the following levels -
3.30 - 3.26 - 3.22 - 3.26
could this be genuine imbalance or cell damage?
I recently installed MultiPlus 3000 on our boat managing 4 BattleBorn Lithiums.
As I understand from what I have read so far, is that when the lithium battery type is selected, the rebulk offset is set to .2v. So we are floating at 13.6 and rebulk will trigger at 13.4.
The problem seems to be that when we are on the boat while on shore power (and the charger is in float) and using things that create a DC load like the fresh water pump, diesel furnace, electric heads, this offset gets satisfied and triggers a new charge cycle. So we are re-bulking at least once a day, which on a fixed charge profile sends us through the minimum absorption time specified.
Could someone please help me understand:
I recently installed 28kw of lithium batteries in a bus conversion and we'll hit colder temperatures in central MN USA.
It is my understanding that it's no so much that lithium can not be absolutely charged below freezing but that it must be derated or compensated below 45f or so. This is because the negative ions stack up and can damage the cells of charged too quickly.
I have an idea... what if we set a temp compensation value intended for lead acid batteries was reversed? Example, I think a traditional value would be -36mV/C, but what if that value was reversed to be +36mV/C or higher. Wouldn't this invert the voltage compensation curve to produce a higher voltage as it got warmer and a lower voltage as it gets colder?
I'm just looking for a way to gradually derate the charge curve instead of a hard off or on switch. I'm also aware of a super secret "Low temperature charge current" setting HEX-Protocol in VE Direct. Would be nice to see that exposed behind a password or something.
Ik wil mijn Vctron laders gebruiken om het overschot aan zonne-energie (dus wat niet binnenshuis wordt opgemaakt) in accu's te stoppen. Ik heb een meter die kan meten of mijn huis exporteert en hoeveel en dan voor 5 of 10 minuten een smartplug aan kan zetten, waarin ik de lader plug.
Is het voor de lader of de accu slecht dat er steeds 5 of 10 minuten geladen wordt en de lader dan weer uit gaat?
I was hoping to see Battery Temperature Compensation added to the advanced features of the IP22 and other BlueSmart Chargers, rather than environmental temp. Some of us have our batteries outside where they are exposed to extreme temps, but keep electronics inside. It would be preferred to get battery temp via bluetooth, from a SmartSolar MPPT Controller, BMV-712 or other Victron device. Is Victron considering adding this function? It looks like the Phoenix IP43 might support this feature, but I am limited to 120V.
First, I've read countless articles trying to self resolve my issues. The vast majority seem to be people using very small systems...and my issues seem to be different. Or other people have bluetooth connectivity to their MPTT and I don't...so not sure if I need to get a USB cable and connect, or I can do things online.
Two issues I want to solve.
1.) Low battery alarms are useless. I want them off, but I can't seem to stop them. My battery is at about 44% (46v), and the alarms are configured for 25% and I continually am getting non stop notifications. VictronConnect on my BMV700 I don't think is related to this, and I have alarms disabled on the remote console...so what is sending these alarm emails so I can stop it? Or at least get it to somehow respect what 25% actually is instead of it having some other calculation its doing.
2.) I cannot get the battery settings correct in VictronConnect on my BMV700. I have to keep monitoring the percentage as it keeps getting off a little. Battery capacity is set at 1560Ah which I know to be correct. 13s13p packs with EIG 20aH cells = 260Ah...with 6 of these in parallel = 1560Ah. I've read for Peukert that its effectively close to 1.00 for Lithium...and especially considering how large my capacity is, my batteries never get any stress at all. So I am actually using "1.00" currently. I've been testing that at 1.00 to 1.09 with equally confusing results of not calculating the correct percentage based on voltage. I'm wondering if I need to toy with the capacity value to get one that helps make the SOC follow correctly...
Help or guidance on how to properly set the config so it follows reality on the batteries? Attaching screenshot of the config currently along with battery specs.
Good afternoon. Need to charge 8x batteries from one source. Need to divide DC charging into 8x batteries without troubles if one fail. Any ideas? thks
We have an existing Centaur charger charging our AGM house bank. We noticed on our most recent anchoring that the Centaur charger is not going into bulk or absorb on our AGM house bank and goes straight to float per the BMV. Worked fine in the past. When I go now and look at the data over several cycles where we would run a generator to charge the bank we don't see the Centaur even hitting bulk / absorption.
You can see the two attached graphs that display battery voltage for our 8 AGM battery house bank. AGM are 5-6 years old now. It is almost like the Centaur.
The Centaur has a second battery (Genset) it charges and it does go through the Bulk/Absorb/Float per the voltage readouts.
Could this be caused by the AGM being at the end of their life and somehow causing the charger to trip early??
I recently installed an IP22 3 output 15 amp charger in my trailer. I am using the charger to charge three 70ah Lead Acid Deep Cycle batteries. I have attached a wiring diagram, I have the batteries and charger setup in this way as batteries two and three are also used in my caravan where they too are charged separately but used together.
When I have the charger on its standard settings for Lead Acid batteries it starts to boil the batteries during bulk charge. I have the charger now setup on custom settings to prevent this but this results in the batteries not being fully charged. The charger is set to 7.5 Amps and not 15 Amps, why would the charger boil the batteries during bulk charge? My 5 Amp CTEK charger never boiled the batteries, I'm sure a 2.5 Amp higher charge current would not cause this.
I assume that the Solar numbers are the output from the panel & the Battery numbers are the output from the 75/15 MMPT controller.
why is the current / amps higher than panel output?
My BMV 700 shows the actual amp input somewhere in the middle of these 2 numbers.
I am dealing with a van upgrade that has a single existing 110 Ah LiFeP04 battery. The system will be upgraded with multiplus, smartsolar mppt, orion, cerbo
The target is to have a 200 Ah battery system and we are currently considering several options.
- Adding one 110 Ah battery. (The state of the current battery os unknown)
- Replacing the system with 2 x 100 Ah batteries (Space is limited and we would like to avoid this solution)
- Replacing the system with 1 x 200 Ah. (Preferred solution so far)
If we go we option 2 or 3, I was wondering if there is any way to re-use the old battery even if amp and size are not the same? Could it somehow be hooked up to the system without reducing the performance of the new battery(ies)?
Is it possible in some way to limit the maximum SOC of my Pylontech US2000 Batteries wit the Cerbo GX?
The reason for my idea is to longer the lifetime and healt of my batteries by not charging them to 100% in the summer, because I have a very large battery storage, more than 20kWh, and thatswhy it would be enough to charge them to 80% at least.
I have Battle Born LiFePO4 batteries. They do not require repeated absorption. In fact, unnecessary absorption it is detrimental to all LiFePO4 batteries. Reabsorption is a lead-acid battery requirement to prevent sulfation.
I tried setting repeated absorption to "0" days, and the setting reverted to "1" day. Then I tried "999" days and found the setting reverts to "45" days. Victron forces 45 days as the maximum setting. I could set the absorption voltage to some low value, but then I would have to reconfigure the charger every time I actually wanted to charge to a higher SOC.
Repeated absorption should be set to "disabled" in the "Li-ion" factory profile (caveat: that factory profile is set at 7 days!). This looks to me to be a software oversight.
Suggestion to other users: to prevent these chargers from cooking your lithium batteries, set the tail current (disabled in the profile) to 7.5 amps (the maximum) so the charger at least diminishes the overcharging damage by terminating charging quickly (provided there are no parasite loads) of an already-fully-charged battery.
I'm trying to use a Battery Protect to switch the ignition input on an external voltage regulator, to disable alternator charging. According to the Victron manuals, if I connect the ve.bus BMS load disconnect to the battery protect remote H/+ terminal, then the Battery Protect should disconnect when the charge disconnect line floats.
I've programmed the Battery Protect to mode 0-C — the lithium mode.
I'm trying to test to make sure this is working, but when I disconnect the BMS charge disconnect from the Battery Protect H/+ terminal, the relay continues to remain closed, and I have full voltage on both the input and output for the battery protect.
Can someone provide some suggestions?
I have a SmartSolar MPPT 150/85 VE.Can connected to 6 320W Renogy solar panels wired in 2 parallel series of 3 panels on an RV. I have 15A fuses on each string and a 25A circuit breaker in between the fuses and the MPPT charger. The new system has worked fine for weeks, until one morning after a day of the charger being in float mode for most of the day, both 15A fuses were blown, but the 25A breaker was not tripped. I also noticed that the charger said that the PV Array voltage was within a volt of the battery bank when the array was actually at 0V and/or completely disconnected.
After replacing the fuses, the charger seemed to work for the rest of the day. By the next day, one of the 15A fuses was blown. Part way through the following day, the charger stopped charging altogether even though no fuses were blown or circuit breakers tripped.
[image]Now, when the charger is in bulk mode during the day, it reports the battery voltage and PV array voltage but no (<5W) of actual charging, At night, it still reports a PV array voltage of approximately the battery bank voltage.
My batteries go into bulk charging twice a day - (last 2 days) i have 6 Victron 220ah AGM Batteries.
They aren't in any type of load during the day so cant see why they need to restart the cycle. I checked and the rebulk setting is set to 0.40v and it says:
''Resulting Voltage at which the charge cycle will restart: 13.4v''
At that voltage the batteries are actually close to full so would it be a bad idea to drop this to restart at 12.8 to avoid over charging?
I have a Victron SmartSolar MPPT 150/100 Tr VE.Can connected to 4 x 435 Watt Canadian Solar Panels(in parallel) , charging 6 x 12v 220ah Victron AGM Batteries(SKU:BAT412201084) connected in parallel.(running a 12v system with 2 x 12v Inverters.)
The batteries show 50amp max charge current but I read somewhere(and cannot find this article anymore) that the 50amp charge setting is per battery i.e i can set my charging amps to 100(max of the controller) and this won't overcharge the batteries.
Is this correct? Is it 50amp per battery max charge current or would i need to leave it at 50amp maximum for the 6 batteries?
The way i have wired the batteries is 3 in parallel x 2 banks connected in parallel to the charge controller - effectively these run to a bus bar that gets charge (+ and - ) from the charge controller.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I have recently installed the orion charger to my system along with the victron smart shunt. This is installed with 2 x 126ah lithium batteries. The Orion seems to be working as per picture below but my batteries are only decreasing in power even though I have been driving for hours over the past few days. I also have a low power light come on my victron multiplus. Any ideas at all what could be going wrong? I have checked all the wires/fuses and all seems ok.
I currently have the following Victron products and want to add solar and 240v charging to my system
I also need to add some more 12v appliances and upgrade the current battery for a trip
Here is what I have currently
1 Cyrix CT 230a connecting the starter and 100ah AGM battery
2 BMV712 and Shunt
I have individually fused connections to the battery for DC loads (Fridge and lights) and want to tidy it all up when adding the solar and mains charging
Is the following diagram the correct way to incorporate the solar controller and 230v charger ?
Specifically should I connect all the 3 charging inputs positives to the POS BUS BAR and all the Negatives to the SHUNT ? if so which side ?
Hi, I currently have an OFFGRID system comprised of 2 Quattros configured as master & slave into a 2 phase floating phase arrangement. Recently got a hold of an used Genset and hoped to integrated it into the system. The Full System is as follows:
Here a Screenshot of my current status, Voltage & Frequency are almost identical, but still no Passthrough or Charging of Batteries occurs, have tried to use an ESS, no assistant, Self-Consumption Hub, without any luck,
Anyone have any suggestions?
I have a multiplus II. I installed it in my RV with 300 Ah of Battleborn batteries. After install I used the inverter at my home on a 15amp circuit and ran the RV through a weeks worth of charges and discharges successfully. Had it pulling from shore and batteries, just shore, and just batteries. Got multiple deep discharges and recharges to ensure system operating well. By the way, I did adjust the settings of the multiplus to match the recommendations of Battleborn for charging.
After we went on our first trip I plugged into a 30amp circuit, adjusted the input settings to 30amp and I after getting to my next destination it doesn't seem it actually charged. Batteries had just 3% left in them.
Realizing these we plugged in to a 15amp circuit and immediately tripped the breaker. I ran my generator and got a few minutes of charge and then stopped receiving AC in.
Not sure what the problem is on this. Any leads would be greatly appreciated! Let me know what questions you have so I can help assist.
I'm looking for a way to charge my 48V service battery in a vehicle with Euro 6 engine. (12V)
I could only find a 12/12-30 chargers. Any suggestions?
Would something like Orion -Tr Smart charger 12/12-30 + Orion-Tr DC-Dc Converter 24/48 work?
Can I unplug my 100 Ah AGM and plug in a Victron Litium Super Pack 12,8 V 100 Ah without any alterstions? Charging through 1) Mercury Outboard alternator 65A or 2) Solar panel and MPPT or 3) CTEK 100 12V battery charger. In case 1 charging will be with Li battery in paraller with 75Ah LeadAcid starter battery. At what voltage will the Li BMS cut out voltage from battery?
I am renovating a 1992 Ford RV, and I was wondering what amperage I need for my B2B charger. The alternator is rated at 70A. I am planning to put one 220Ah AGM battery, with a max charge current of 0.2C (translating to 44A).
Would a 30A B2B charger wear down my alternator too quickly? What about 20A or 15A?
Any help would be much appreciated:)