Working with limited space in my camper, and have my system designed with the MP 12/3000 directly above my two 300ah lifepo4 batteries. I know the manual states not to mount directly above batteries, but if I'm correct, that is due to off-gassing with other battery chemistries. Since lifepo4 batteries are fully sealed and do not off-gas, I'm thinking that mounting the inverter above them is totally fine, obviously with precaution to cover battery terminals so nothing is ever accidentally shorted.
How does this sound? Okay to mount above the lifepo4 batteries, or find a different place (which would be extremely difficult at this point)? Anyone from Victron have a say on this?
For a van conversion.
Is 40A Breaker on 6mm2 pushing it a little?
Diesel Heater is on its separate circuit, for safety.
No RCD/Consumer on multiplus shore inlet, I've heard this can cause headaches.
One thing I haven't drawn yet though.. I was considering charging the starter battery from the multiplus trickle, would that be any more complicated than just joining it to the starter battery positive?
Hi all. I am at a loss right now. I am in the process of setting up my vans victron system, and today noticed that I somehow broke the “mains on” and “bulk” led lights on the multiplus. The cover was off, and they were somehow bent to the side with the top solder on each being snapped off. I am feeling sick that I let this happen. Unbelievably careless. So now I am wondering how I can get this fixed, and more importantly, what other damage I may have done to the inverter. Can I still use it assuming the only thing I hurt was the led lights? Will the broken solders cause any additional damage if the unit is powered on? Man, I’ve made mistakes, but this one really, really hurts. I am at a complete loss. Thanks in advance for any advice and help.
I have already bought most of the larger Victron components and batteries, but didn't want to buy all the smaller items (cables, fuses, busbars, ...) until I had the entire diagram figured out for my campervan. This is what I've come up with (don't shoot my paint skills, haha). I would highly appreciate any feedback on my setup before I start buying the rest.
Thank you in advance!
What to choose for a BMS? I've seen diagrams with the VE.Bus, others with the Lynx BMS, others still with the BMS 12/100.
Does it make sense to plan two Orions 12/30 to leverage on the powerful smart alternator or it's overcomplicating the solution?
Context: I have a Mercedes V-Class (W447) where I want to replace an inverter of 1500W power (peak 3000W) and the "dead" battery. It is a "Luxury Van", rebuilt a few years ago, with a very large TV, coffee maker, Playstation, etc. I would like to install a Victron system and convert to a recreational vehicle for short weekend adventures. This is my first design composed from several sources, it may be incorrect.
I'm thinking of upgrading the electrics in our Campervan.
Currently the alternator and solar panel charge both batteries simultaneous. I would like to disconnect the starter from the auxiliary battery to prevent draining the starter battery by accident while camping.
My thought is to hook up the Smartsolar controller to the starterbattery to keep it charged while not using it and hook up an Orion TR between the starter battery and the auxiliary battery.
When the engine is not running, ideally the Smartsolar would charger te starterbattery first, and the Orion TR will use any excess power charging the auxiliary battery.
And ofcourse the Orion TR will charge the auxiliary when the engine is running.
My questions are:
- Is this a good idea?
- Won't the Orion TR drain the starter battery because it consumes more power than the Smartsolar produces?
Looking to hear from you, much appreciated :).
now, i´m in the planning phase of our DIY Camper.
For the electric layout, i want to use the wiring Diagram of the "Victron Van" as a basic layout.
Instaed of the single 200Ah battery, i want to use 2 Victron 160Ah Batteries and eventually the 12/3000 MultiPlus to be safe for future AC-installations.
In the Layout of the "VictronVan" a CCGX Control Panel is used but i like to replace the CCGX with the Cerbo+GXtouch.
Is there any difference in the functionality between the CCGX and the Cerbo+GX-Touch or can i simply change the components ?
I have an Orion 12|24-15 Non Iso DC-DC charger. Its input is a 12v starter battery on a Sprinter and the output is a 24v Li-Ion pack and they share a common ground.
I have been seeing strange charging issues and over-voltage alarms. On closer inspection the voltage shown in the app for the Orion doesn't match what I measure at its terminals with a meter.
These 2 images show the exact same time but a difference of 0.35v. Its been worse than this on other occasions and reads both under and over randomly.
Has anyone seen this kind of issue before on a DC/DC? Its on the latest FW, could it be a fault in the unit or my setup?
All Bluetooth devices have the latest firmware available in the Victron App.
As I am measuring at the terminals I dont expect cable or connector losses to be an issue here. I also have a good bit of other Victron kit on the same 24v side which all agree with the multi-meter consistently under < .1v difference . All the kit is connected on the 24v Side via a Lynx distribution unit with cable well within its ratings. Connection tightness double checked. As mentioned earlier sometimes the voltage in the DC-DC app reads over sometimes under and it seems to move around day to day.
Heres a comparison of readings:
|Orion 12|24 - 15 (Output)||24.2|
|MPPT Smart Solar||23.88|
|Orion 24|12 - 30 (Input)||23.9|
Any advice or questions welcome. Many Thanks!
I have a van with 3 x 100W fixed solar panels in series charging a 150ah lithium battery via the Victron 100/20 SmartSolar MPPT charger. I am considering adding the ability to charge whilst driving, so looking at adding the Orion-TR Smart 12/12-30A DC-DC charger.
I am a bit confused on the logistics of these two units working together however, with the solar fixed to the roof and potentally giving full output when driving in good sun. Is it fine to wire these two in parallel and let them run simultaneously when driving?
Anything I might be missing here?
Hey everyone, we built a very nice electrical system for a customers 2021 Ford Transit and it seems to be plagued with some problems. I have racked my brain, double and triple checked everything, and can't come up with any answers. I'll give a breakdown of the system, then the issues they are experiencing:
200ah Battle Born Lithium batteries
Victron Orion Smart 30amp DC-DC charger
Victron SmartSolar 30amp MPPT charger
Victron Multiplus Compact 12/2000/80 Inverter/Charger
Victron SBP-100 Smart Battery Protect
Victron BMV-712 battery monitor
2 X 100watt Renogy panels
All wiring is Ancor Marine, fusing is Blue Sea Systems
The biggest loads on their system is their Webasto AT2000 heater, and Dometic CFX-65DZ fridge: around 50watts total
Battery drain - while traveling they will regularly wake up and the batteries be at 70%. The heater may kick on a few times at night, but this seems like excessive battery drain.
Battery low voltage - they are getting low voltage warnings from the BMV-712 as well as their fridge; batteries are at 75% charge, but showing low voltage. This seems odd; our experience is that LiFePO4 batteries can maintain high voltage even when discharged.
Odd charging patterns - the other day they drove for an hour in bright sunlight. They should have easily topped off the batteries from the alternator plus solar charging. BMV-712 showed 62% charge. Then 5 minutes later it updated to 100% charge. Is it possible there is a communication error with the battery monitor?
In general, it doesn't seem like their system is charging as well as it should, and the batteries are draining way too quickly. We are out of ideas, as everything seems to be put together perfectly. Any thoughts? What kind of checks can we do? Could there be a parasitic drain on the system, and if so, how do we find that? Could we have a bad ground somewhere? And lastly, could these batteries be damaged if experiencing low voltage?
Thanks for any thoughts/suggestions.
I'm trying to diagnose an issue on a van that was brought into my shop. I'm pretty good on the electrical side but it's not my wheelhouse so I wanted to run this by the group for some super pro thoughts. The issue is the ground from the MultiPlus is overheating and has started to char. System is now shut down till the issue can be resolved.
Specs on the system are: Small home built camper van with 3 AGM batteries and a 2000W Mulitplus has a #14 ground from the Multiplus to the DC fuse box which in turn is run to the negative battery with a #10 wire and then to the chassis with a #2 wire. Positive & Negative from Multi are #2. My guess is that the negative wire from the multi was loose somewhere forcing current to run through the undersized ground wire. Does this sound reasonable or is there something I'm not seeing here?
Also what size should the ground be on this? I feel like #6 at minimum, possibly same size as negative? I'm also going to upgrade this to busbars so all connections are made there instead of on the battery terminals.
Thanks for the help!
I have finished my first revision of the campervan schematics, I am sure I would have forgotten a few items (such as the Dometic fridge, a shower solution etc), but this is the general installation. I wanted some people to check it over and to see if everything looks legit in terms of wiring etc. I suspect the solar wattage should be enough considering I have the DC-DC charger? Also in terms of AC power, can someone advise on a suitable distribution box that will work seamlessly with the Multiplus and the correct wire sizes for this also please?
Let me know if anything looks wrong. I plan to fit what I can and get it approved by an electrician.
We’re using an Orion Smart 30A to charge the leisure batteries while the engine is running in our van. However, we also have 500w of solar (real world output up to 30A) connected to a SmartSolar.
We’re finding after long periods stationary, particularly with use of vehicle accessories like the radio, that the starter battery can be a little low. Despite having completely full leisure batteries thanks to the solar. And had even failed to start the engine once (fixed by manually connecting leisure to starter to get engine on).
Is there a way to trickle charge the starter, with any excess power but without allowing any leisure accessories to drain the starter? And without “waking up” the Orion and creating a loop?
I've been searching around the community and asked my dealer regarding the following connection but couldn't get my head around this particular situation.
I am instaling a MP2 and a buck boost in a vehicle 24V installation. I would like to use the "starter battery charge" ruction of the MP2 (E-connection) for when the vehicle is connected to "shore power". Also, I would liker to use the auto detection of the buck boost for charging the LiFePo cells.
My question is now: How can I make sure that the buck boost will not switch on when the MP is charging the starter batteries? The he voltage threshold is probably not sufficient and is the vibration detection sufficient? Or is it best to install a fixed input to the alternator via the purple connector of the buck boost?
Thanks for our input and help :-)
I am installing a 3phase Setup with 3 Multiplus 24-3000 in an offgrid camper setup.
Input will be single phase. I will not need the 3phase configuration all the time.
Is there any way to switch to single phase mode with only one Multiplus active and back to 3phase if needed? Therefore saving standby power of 2 Multiplus when 3000VA would be enough?
I understand that if I switch off 2 Multiplus the system will give a failure and not work at all.