I bought a boat and am redoing the electrics.
Reading for a long time now but I am still unsure how to connect my new setup in the best way.
- AGM for Anchor
- AGM for starter
- LiFePo4 with REC ABMS for service
- Balmar 100A Alternator
- Smart Aternator Regulator but only with AGM profiles
- Mastervolt 75A Chargemaster Plus Charger with three outputs
- Solar MPPT
Now, should I go:
1. All charging (alternator, mppt, chargemaster) to a general charge bus, then three DCDC to every Bank
2. All charging to a charge bus and then two DCDC - AGM and Lithium
3. Alternator charging to isolating Diode, from there one DCDC to the two AGM and one DCDC to the Lithium, and for shore from Chargemaster one to the DCDC to AGM and one to the DCDC to Lithium
4. Alternator and Chargemaster to anchor or starter bank, from that one one DCDC to the other AGM and one to the Lithium
5. Alternator to diode, directly to AGM and from one of them to the Lithium
Sidenote, I need to reduce the output of the alternator to about 50% to not overheat it as my regulator does not have alternator temperature input.
I have a 175ah Lithium battery powered by solar via Victron MPPT
I want this unit to charge a spare 120ah Lithium battery I have
If I use a Dc-Dc Smart charger with isolation 12/12v - 18a would be plenty, will it work and what would be the L H Pinouts.
I live down under plenty of sun and the solar keeps the 175ah topped up most days
I have a orion tr smart fitted in a 2020 Citroen Dispatch /Jumpy euro 6 van with smart alternator.
After connecting to the starter battery I get a "battery charge system fault" message come up on the van when starting the engine, sometimes it clears straight away but other times it lasts for 15 to 20 minutes and mostly in the mornings.
If I disconnect the Orion the van is back to normal with no errors.
The orion is on factory settings.
I am upgrading the DC electrical in my camper to 24v so that in the future I can install a large inverter more efficiently. To that end, the charging from the vehicle 7-pin harness will no longer work. So, in order to get vehicle charging I need to install a DC-DC converter (12v-24v). As nice as getting the Orion Smart is, I feel it is overkill and not a necessary expense. Therefore, I would like to install the Orion 12/24-20 IP20 converter but it doesn't have isolated -ve connections. Based on my limited understanding, as long as the ground systems at both ends are connected with the correct wire sizes, an isolated system is not required. So, I was wondering if one of the fine experts on this site could confirm if my thinking is correct and if the attached setup is correct and adequate.
Additional information that may be needed is that the camper systems (lights, pump etc) are all still on 12v and I will be installing a step down converter to feed all the 12v. They will share the same ground path (camper chassis) as the 24v side. Other installed components are a Lynx power distribution box, Battery protect, Victron 100/50 MPPT charge controller, Battery shunt. Batteries are currently 4 - 6v Trojan T105 batteries but plan to upgrade to Lithium in the near future.
Also note, that I will be installing a properly sized relay (not shown on diagram) on the vehicle side so I can hook up one of the upfitter switches in the truck to turn on/off the power to the Anderson connector as needed.
Hi! I am working on a "simple" diagram for a sailboat.
All charging sources (including 4pcs MPPT 75/15) go to Charge Bus Bar that feeds LiFePo4 house battery.
From the same Charge Bus Bar I am going to feed the ORION DC-DC Charger to charge the AGM starter battery. The AGM start battery will supply also the bilge pump.
When I leave the boat for longer period, I would like to disconnect the LiFePo4 house battery to store it at 50-70% SOC as recommended (all charge sources and loads disconnected).
The AGM battery remains connected to keep the Bilge Pump working.
Now the question:
Will the AGM battery get solar charge, when MPPT supplies voltage to the Charge Bus Bar and from there to ORION Charger, but no other battery is connected to the Charge Bus Bar (in other words: no battery connected to MPPT).
I have a camper with an Orion Smart HQ2053 used to manage charge of the leisure battery from the van alternator/battery.
On the leisure side, I also have solar controlled by SmartSolar HQ21427 and the battery is monitored by a SmartShunt HQ2219.
The solar is doing a great job on the leisure battery.
What I am looking to do is also utilise the solar to keep the van battery topped up. As its a camper is used infrequently and after a few weeks standing the van battery is often very low.
I'm thinking I have an option to manually connect the van and leisure batteries together when the van is stood but the best solution would be to automate connectivity treating the solar as the charger for both batteries when the engine isn't running?
Is this possible?
Thanks in advance
Victron cooling fan.jpgI am in the final stages of installing a Orion 12/30 isolated DC2DC charger. I have installed a cooling fan in advance of any potential overheating issues and it's mounted on a 1.6mm steel sheet over plywood in a caravan with good space around it. My question after all that background information is this. After having another brand of charger controlled via an ignition source previously in another camper is the Victron app to control startup/shutdown better OR an ignition switched source to control startup/shutdown? I do have a smart alternator in the tow vehicle, ie variable voltage.
Just wondering if there is any issues with joining the negatives of an isolated 48/12 DC/DC converter? The system is going into a vehicle with 48V house batteries. The 48V batteries will have the negative connected to the chassis, and I would like to do the same with the 12V bus, but Victron only make an isolated converter. Is there any reason not to connect the isolated negatives?
Hi all looking for some advice please
I am trying to charge a 24v AGM battery from my 48v AGM battery system
The only thing I've found that might be suitable is the Orion-TR 48V/24v
My concern is, they don't sell the 'smart' model in 48v , is the standard TR model suitable for charging AGM batteries?
I plan to deploy a 36V trolling motor with a 6P 1-0-2 switch, which will switch 3 batteries to work in parallel or series and has a neutral position. Trolling batteries have to be charged when the motor is running and from 220/12V charger when the boat is on the dock. I want to protect the alternator so I plan to use Orion isolated DC-DC 30A charger (the alternator is declared as 140A but I don't know what happens when idle). I don't want the DC charging system to use more than 30A to prevent alternator damage. Can anyone confirm if the following schema is ok?
The Orion DC DC Charger is connected from the Tow Vehicle (TV) via 7 way plug to the Li battery in the Airstream.
With the engine idling, and if the Airstream battery is disconnected, the Orion provides stable power at relatively low load (< 5 amps). Input from the TV is 13.4 or so and output from the Orion is 14.2v. Once the Airstream battery (200 Ah) is connected to the system, the input voltage into the Orion drops to about 10v and the charger goes offline.
What would cause such a significant voltage drop once it is supposed to start charging? Is this a symptom of a bad starter battery and/or bad alternator? The TV has not had any issues starting and charging the battery, but it somehow cannot deal with what the Orion charger is demanding from it to charge the Li battery.
I have a 24v 200ah lithium boat battery which I want to use to maintain full charge in a 12v boat starting battery using a Orion-TR Smart 24/12-20A DC-DC charger.
1. Given the starting battery will also be charged from time to time from an outboard alternator, can the Orion 24/12 stay connected while the outboard alternator is running ?
2. When charging the 24v battery via a 24v Victron Phoenix Smart charger, can the Orion 24/12 stay connected to the 12v starter battery ?
3. I assume the Orion 24/12 should be set to the Charger (not Power Supply) Setting ?
4. Should the Engine Shutdown Detection setting remain enabled or not in the settings ?
5. Anything else I should be aware of ?
Appreciate any assistance or advice.
I have installed an Orion Smart 12/12 - 30 connected from my starter and charging my Lithium bank. It is connected to the load side of my shunt so it's only my BMS on the battery side of the shunt.
One thing I am finding strange when it's running is that the output voltage on the Orion is showing as 14V whereas the shunt and battery smartsense is measuring the voltage to the battery as 13.5V. Can anyone explain this difference? I don't believe it's an issue but just curious from a technical standpoint. Screenshot is after running for 10mins.
For info, parameters are:
Abs Voltage: 14V
Would it be suitable to install both 60A breakers for DC to DC charging near the mounting location of the Smart Charger? The cable run from the charger to the remote battery is about 3 to 4 meters, but little room to include a breaker at that location.
Hello, a quick question, in an installation I am going to feed a battery through an orion (car alternator) and an mppt regulator through solar panels.
I will also put the smart shunt at the battery input.
The question is, when the car is running, the battery will receive a charge from the orio and the mppt, it can be configured so that between the two, an X amperage is not exceeded.